Ahsai

Nice job, but no, (and NO offense at all intended) it's not a new idea. These have been available from here:

http://www.asedeals.com/automotive_floor_jacks.html

for a while, $84 each, free shipping and is adjustable. Could be modified to work F-R or side/side, I would think. Regarding the F-R vs front or back, the same side is WAY more dangerous to you and the car. Too easy to roll out between the jack and the car, and destroy the side of your car, or you. Much harder to do that with F or R wheels down or that side already on jack stands.

Is 38" long enough for F-F or R-R configuration??

So would a 'maintainer' work as well as the 9-volt cigarette lighter adapter?

Can someone post the actual name of this '9-volt cigarette lighter..." thingamajig?

Thanks,

Alex

http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=52

I highly doubt it will work as it can't even power the dome's light, let alone the fuel pump and other electronics when you turn your ignition on. I think that's why RFM mentioned a spare (car) battery instead.

Just a thought. Can the dealer swap out your DME with a (maybe used) one and prove to you that's the problem? Hard to believe the dealer has no spare working DME's lying around...

Jam an adjustable wrench horizontally at base of shift knob and lift with another hand holding the shift knob. It takes some force. Be careful not to knock yourself in the face.

Can't think of anything easy. Maybe you can drain the fluid and use a boroscope to try to find it?

When you rev your engine in neutral, can you hold any rpm below 2.4k?

Mine ('03 egas) is like whenever I gives some gas, the rpm climbs from 700 to 2.4k steadily and never stops in between no matter how I try. Is that normal?

Jon: I found a US distributor in northern California and posted the info in the 996TT forum...he sells by the six-pak and is quite reasonable. Hope this helps you.

I'm going to go to the 5 W 50 on my next oil change. I believe Loren said that the Mobil 1 5W 50 is one of the Porsche approved oils.

Thanks--down the road, please post your results. I just noticed that Castrol Syntec 5W50 is also on the approved list. This is a little easier to purchase in MN (or on Amazon.com, for that matter!)

Best Regards,

Jon

As far as I remember, the lastest oil approval list I saw (here in Renntech) only has either 0w-40 or 5w-40. 5w-50 was NOT on the list.

I'm not saying 5w-50 will not work well but could someone please confirm whether it's on the approved list? Thanks.

Mobil 1 5W-50 has been on the list at least since 2006.

Porsche updates the list yearly (usually in March). We always have the latest update here in the TSB section for our Contributing Members (like you :D ).

Hi Loren,

Thanks for confriming! I see the 5w-50 now in the TSB, there are only two entries iof 5w-50 in that big table, which I missed.

For the wealth of knowledge here, the membership is one of best thing you can buy in life :)

Jon: I found a US distributor in northern California and posted the info in the 996TT forum...he sells by the six-pak and is quite reasonable. Hope this helps you.

I'm going to go to the 5 W 50 on my next oil change. I believe Loren said that the Mobil 1 5W 50 is one of the Porsche approved oils.

Thanks--down the road, please post your results. I just noticed that Castrol Syntec 5W50 is also on the approved list. This is a little easier to purchase in MN (or on Amazon.com, for that matter!)

Best Regards,

Jon

As far as I remember, the lastest oil approval list I saw (here in Renntech) only has either 0w-40 or 5w-40. 5w-50 was NOT on the list.

I'm not saying 5w-50 will not work well but could someone please confirm whether it's on the approved list? Thanks.

Similar experience. Replaced the oil pressure sender and the problem is solved. Of course there could be other possibilities but most likely the sender is faulty.

I have a photo showing the new sender unit (on the passenger side of the car).

Funny, that's exactly what I was thinking. The old plugs look great! Hey, but I REALLY like that socket set & holder..anyone know what it is? As far as the 996TT, use the recommended plug.

The wear is very obvious when compared side by side with the new plug. Doesn'[t show well in the photo. The new plugs make the engine smoother for sure. The sockets and holder (made by Hansen) are both from Sears.

I just had mine replaced last week. Similar symptoms. I have an '03 and it's on the passenger side of the engine. See photo below.

BTW, if you turn on your ignition but not the engine, the oil pressure reading should be exactly at '0'. If not (mine showed 1 - 2 randomly), most likely it's the sender unit/bad connection. Note these connections are exposed and no rubber/plastic to protect them from the elements. GL.

Drive your car as before and wait till the CEL comes up again and note the code, could be a second problem in the system.

Thanks. I'll do just that and report back if there are more codes.

The secondary air pump works only for a short time and on a cold start, perhaps the engine temperature was still high enough at the pick up. Diagnostic tools can give a sign in which direction the fault occurred, but never a 100% solution.

Thanks for the info. That's my understanding too but I forgot to mention the strange part....the CEL came on when I was driving, 30 minutes into traffic with engine fully warmed up. I also heard a slight non-normal sound from the engine and saw the rev dipped instantly right before the CEL was triggered when it happened.

- Ahsai

CEL came on one day after dealer changed the engine mounts. Scanner says P0492 - "Secondary Air injection system insufficient flow". I checked the engine compartment and found the dealer forgot to to plug the power back to the air pump. The power wire is dangling! I plugged it back and cleared the code and drove it for 1/2 hr and everything seems to be fine.

Why the CEL didn't come on when I picked up the car from the dealer but rather one day after I picked up the car? Have I likely fixed the problem?

Why the code is not more direct like "Air pump failure"? Any thought?

BTW, the new mounts are great! Much less vibration in idle and the ride is less harsh at the rear. Feels kind of like new rear suspension.

Thanks!

- Ahsai

Probably a faulty sender, you can check for corroded connectors on top of the sender first.

Thanks. BTW, the connectors are not spade/socket type but rather two srew-in terminals. They feel pretty tight to me but they are exposed (no rubber boot) and I could see some oxidation on them. I have extended warranty so I would ask a shop to repair it but I want to be sure before I bring the car in.

I suspect my oil pressure sender is shot ('03 C2 coupe). My oil pressure reads 0.5 bar to 2 bar or anywhere in between in the morning or after shut down, when the engine is not even on! Also, it pegs at 5 bar when rev > 2,200 rpm. It wasn't like that before.

Also, the other day while cruising on the highway, the oil pressure went to zero and the oil pressure warning light came on the OBC. Stopped the car and restarted, everything was fine. The car drives normally.

Any thoughts?

Never happened to me but just a thought...can you replace the short screw with a longer one and try to pull the screw/damper out?

- Ahsai

After a lot of cursing and cuts on the hands, finally have it all done. Here are some pics of the old vs new plugs.

The old plugs have only 26k miles on it but they seem to have worn out quite a bit.

Thanks for all of your help!

Ahsai, I had the same problme this weekend doing my spark plugs, 03 C2. I ended up bending the rear side of the shield to get it out. It is just sheetmetal, bends back up after re-install. The passenger side did come right out....

Great! Now I know I'm not insane :)

Ok, I just wiggled it out...it took some twisting :)

Thanks for all your help guys.

I have never had any trouble like that - do you have an after market exhaust?

I guess you could always bend it a little and then bend it back.

Thanks, Loren. I have stock exhaust. Seems like the shield is caught between the exhaust can mount (the mount that bolts onto the engine with multiple "legs" and it has 3 holes for the 3 studs on the exhaust can) and the engine. So even removing the exhaust won't help.

Can you confirm at least the shield comes out toward the front?

In the photo (looking up from the driver's side exhaust), you can see the shield on the top left is catching the boss it's screwed onto.

I have an '03 C2 and I can't wiggle out the driver's side heat shield. I tried to slide it out toward the front of the car but it keeps catching on the rear boss which it screws to. I've already flex it as much as I can but it's still stuck in there.

Any tricks to remove it?

Thanks in advance.

No worreis then. As others have said, they should fit without any problems.

Your old pads look like the Porsche Performance pads, which should have PN#s 996.351.930.30 and 996.352.930.30.

Your new ones looks like the stock pads that have the round metal thingie, which I guess are for damping vibrations.

Could it be the exhasut heat shield rattling? I once had a similar noise that happened only at a certain RPM. It was the heat shield touching the muffler.

I have the exact problem except it's intermittent. It's definitely coming from the CD player. When it's clicking, I just eject the CD and then the clicking is gone.

- Ahsai