Ahsai

A easier, and neater, approach would be to use the bleeders on the calipers to vent off the fluid while changing out the pads. As you should be flushing the system on a regular basis anyway, doing it after swapping out pads would put your system in an optimum performance condition..................

Thanks for your note. The brake fluid in my car has been replaced not too long ago. I have excess of fluid in my reservoir and i would prefer to take some fluid out

Just use a couple of those eye glass screwdrivers (facing each other at 180) to pry around the edge of the cap and it should come out.

At the moment I am having a hard time bleeding my clutch system after a replacement of both Master & Slave components.

Any tips for me?

My 996 has been on the car-lift for 2 days now. :help:

Are you using a pressure bleeder? Also, do you top off your brake fluid reservior to MAX before bleeding?

Make sure the mating surface on the engine is perfectly clean and no scratches or corrosion is present and reinstall without the gasket. The O ring embedded in the cover should provide all the sealing you need. Make sure you don't over torque the fasteners when installing. The aluminum is unforgiving.

Thanks for the reply and that's exactly what I plan to do to finish the job.

Ahsai:

+1 on the over-torquing.

With respect to the refilling of the coolant, you may have to use a vacuum device if you end up with any air pockets. You have the fact that you have only drained a little more than a gallon of coolant, so you may get away with either no or very little "burping".

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks, Maurice. I ended up not using the gasket and just replaced the plate with a new one and refilled from the coolant tank without vacuum tool. It took all the coolant that was drained out. I left the bleeder valve open and drove it a bit with some 5k rev, the coolant level is now a tad lower than MIN. Since I spilled some so that makes perfect sense. So it seems I got by this time w/o vacuum refill. Will monitor/refill in the next few days with the bleeder valve OPEN.

Make sure the mating surface on the engine is perfectly clean and no scratches or corrosion is present and reinstall without the gasket. The O ring embedded in the cover should provide all the sealing you need. Make sure you don't over torque the fasteners when installing. The aluminum is unforgiving.

Thanks for the reply and that's exactly what I plan to do to finish the job.

To your issue number 1 - Maybe that is why it started leaking (no gasket)? I would put the gasket in.

On number 2 - after you start the engine and it warms to temp., the thermostat will open and the coolant will be gin to flow, you can then (after it cools) add the coolant.

Good luck...

DC

Thanks for the reply. No, the plate already has a rubber gasket around it. My engine is stock and the plate worked for 8yrs and I'm hesitant to have double gasket.

So I have this coolant leak around a metal plate on the engine block close to where the transmission meets the engine

Pic of the plate =>

I removed the plate and about 1.2 gallon of coolant gushed out :eek:. I caught almost all of it.

What's behind the plate =>

Now I'm left with TWO PROBLEMS:

1) Per the Porsche catalogue, there is a gasket between the plate and the engine block but I don't have this gasket at all and my engine is stock.

Left to right, new gasket, new plate, old plate. So should I add this new gasket in between or just replace the old plate with the new one? The old one worked for 6yrs afterall =>

2) With a full coolant tank, how do I refill the coolant?? Turn on the engine momentarily and the coolant from the tank should be sucked back to the engine? Any insight or tips will be much appreciated!

Hi All,

I've been doing some searches regarding the handling of my 99 C2 Coupe with 35,000 miles. I've owned it for 6+ years now, and I'm aware that our cars do tend to feel "floaty" when running highway speeds. While I've grown accustom to this feeling, I believe I have an actual issue that could/should be resolved. I'm not getting the response from the steering wheel that I feel I should. When traveling on the highway at any speed the steering is a bit loose. I can wiggle the wheel left to right a bit and there's no significant response from the car. Don't get me wrong, if I turn the wheel with what I'd consider normal effort, I get the correct response. The car also handles corners well and the input feels correct and tracks true.

What I'm wondering is if there is something worn, or something I can modify to get a "on rails" feel. I owned a BMW 325i with suspension upgraded by the prior owner. That car would change direction if you sneezed with your hand on the steering wheel. I'd like to get that feel out of this one.

I have US spec suspension. I cannot lower the ride height based on my driveway clearance. I also do a good deal of city driving on terrible roads and a firmer ride is not what I'm looking for. Just simply to improve the responds of the steering to driver input.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I would check the tire pressure and wear first (is it even?). Then, have a shop SPECIALIZED in alignment to go through all the suspension components and check for wear, then do an alignment. Even your car has a low mileage, suspension parts may wear out/deteriorate due to age too.

Compared to a 325i with modified suspension, your stock suspension (I assume it's stock) may not give you that secured feel. You can switch to M030 which will give you big improvements with minimal lowering. I swapped to x74 and can't be happier (but may be too low for your driveway).

Thanks for all the help. I have read through about 40 pages about this on Renntech and 6speed, but nobody mentioned how or where to get the regulator. All the places I called sold the alternator in one piece. Without a part number or such it was impossible for me to find. Now, my problem is the car is dismantled at the shop, with them wanting the car gone and me not wanting it left outside in the winter as I wait for the part to ship. Should of tried the DIY, but I chickened out. After watching a high school dropout try and replace a bulb on my Cayanne the other day I shouldn't be so intimidated.

Thanks again, especially for the quick responses. This forum has saved my *** a few times already.

Digg

If it makes you feel any better, mine failed at <40k miles also. $500 for a reman from Porsche sounds about right. I had to pay out of pocket ~$100 even I have a 0 deductible aftermarket warranty They have a database that put a "reasonable" maximum cost on every single part of your car and they only cover up to ~$300 for alternator so I had to pay the difference. They cover all the labor though. The site I had above ships the same day (not sure how long to get to you) but since no one is 100% sure if the regulator is indeed the culprit, althought likey (for all we know, it could be some shorts inside the alternator), you are still gambling :(

I can't seem to find out where to buy this. I have an 03 TT that has the Christmas light dashboard. I have installed a new battery. The shop says the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced. They want $500 for the alternator plus shop time. If I can't get a voltage regulator, any problems with a Duralast reman? Any particular after market. The shop doesn't recommend it, but an alternator should last more than 40k miles. Especially if its a $50 part that is the problem. Sounds like a design flaw to me. Why would you replace it with the same junk? Dealer pricing of $1200 for an item that gives out in most vehicle around 30k miles, crazy!!

Digg

Tons of info here on a 996 (non-TT though) http://forums.rennli...ad-alt-reg.html

Google found at least one vendor http://www.americanenginesco.com/servlet/the-141/Porsche-911-Boxster-Cayenne/Detail

GL

+1 on smoke machine since your code is indicating a small leak so it's hard to detect even if they were to vacuum test every single EVAP line. Otherwise, I'm afraid it's a fishing expedition :(

Oh on the bright side, at least it can be reproduced and it's not intermittent so hopefully easier to track down.

Coolant is the answer.

Thanks, RFM! Yikes. I was hoping to relpace the seal myself. I don't have a vacuum coolant changer so probably I'll just take it to the shop.

I don't think much will come out. Just catch what comes out (in a clean container) and put it back in.

Then drive around with the bleed valve open for a couple of days.

Thanks again, Loren! Will give it a try.

Coolant is the answer.

Thanks, RFM! Yikes. I was hoping to relpace the seal myself. I don't have a vacuum coolant changer so probably I'll just take it to the shop.

Sorry the photo is not good. If you blow up the photo, I was referring to the rectangular cover that the yellow arrow points to.

Got it. What's the engine and what year is it?

My car is an '03 C2. The engine photoed is not my engine but the part in question is the same as mine. The part has part # 996 101 216 52 printed on it.

That part has been updated.

New number - 996.101.016.00 Cover -- US MSRP $18.52

also use 996.101.336.50 Gasket -- US MSRP $3.96

Thanks, Loren! Any idea what's behind the part? I don't want to have oil or coolant gushing out when I remove it...

Sorry the photo is not good. If you blow up the photo, I was referring to the rectangular cover that the yellow arrow points to.

Got it. What's the engine and what year is it?

My car is an '03 C2. The engine photoed is not my engine but the part in question is the same as mine. The part has part # 996 101 216 52 printed on it.

I have this, rated at 1,000 ftlb. http://www.tooltopia.com/titan-12048.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=TIT12048&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

I used it without any cheater bar to remove an axle nut on an '03 A4 AWD with ease. I pre-soaked the nut with PBblaster overnight plus I used an impact socket (3/4" drive) and a 4" impact extension (3/4" drive) with a jack stand to support the extension. BTW, people also rave about CRC freeze off. Good luck.

Sorry the photo is not good. If you blow up the photo, I was referring to the rectangular cover that the yellow arrow points to.

Oil seems to be leaking from this rectangular part which is held by two bolts. What is this part and is there a seal behind it? TIA

Hi all,

Happy New Year!

I'm helping a friend to replace the throttle cable, only the half that connects to the throttle body (the other half that connects to the gas pedal is fine). I tried to trace the cable but it just disappears behind the engine...

The WSM says there's a sleeve that the two halves of the cable can be disconnected so the engine can be removed. Does anyone know where exactly this sleeve is located? Also, do I need to lower the engine for this job?

TIA

Have they checked the DME side of both the coil and the fuel injector connection/power for cylinder #2?

** UPDATE **

Swapped injectors and still no better.

Porsche technical now saying replace the cam sensors.

Cheers,

Nick

Subscribed. I also have this clutch noise. It's intermittent and can't be reproduced by will. When it happens, the car is warmed up and I'm starting a little agressively from a stop. I have an '03 with almost 40k miles. Clutch replaced at 10k miles (due to distorted clutch material. Nothing with my driving).

Nice custom RMS tool! Could you please share how to fabraicate it?

Check out this post, that has a link to a site with the specs... other than that get creative at your local hardware store with a 3" outside diameter PVC fitting and another section of pipe to fit inside as a stop... there are other threads out there describing what parts to get. Then you can gently tap in place with a dead blow until it reaches the stop.

Optionally place a plank of wood on the back side of the tool, drill some holes that will fit into the shaft, and use bolts to draw the RMS in similar to how the factory tool does it.

Thanks for the info!

With my custom tool.

Nice custom RMS tool! Could you please share how to fabraicate it?

Ahsai, you mention a centering tool. It that a separate tool that comes in the box with the shifter (997.424.010.00)?

That's right. It comes with the shifter assembly. It's a piece of plastic that mounts on the top of the shifter housing to center the shifter BEFORE connecting to the two cables. Works like a charm.

As my stock shifter on my MY99 C2 is feeling sloppy after 90,000 km I would like to give it a new feeling by changing to an 997 shifter bracket. Reading about the oem 997 shifter bracket (997.424.010.00) and the oem 997 short shifter bracket (977.424.983.00) which has both positive reviews over the stock 996 shifter I can not decide. Apart from the sloppy feeling I do not have any issues with the tranny. This is my daily car and I'm not going to trackdays (yet) So... I know it is personal but which to take?

I like the 997 oem shifter. You can check out my review here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=435850&referrerid=32590

I had factory 996 SSK installed before but it's too stiff for my liking. The 997 oem shifter throw is in between stock and the SSK and it eliminates ALL slopiness (assuming the rest of your shifter cables/linkage are in good shape).

Note that the 997 oem shifter comes with the two black linkage that connects to the male plastic thread of the shifter cables. So unless your threads are worn, there should be no slop. Once you remove yours, it will become clear. Also, the shifter comes with a centering tool so you don't have to worry about adjustment/alignment of it.

This morning I looked at the coolant again when the car was cold. When I opened the cap, coolant started to leak out. It appears that I overfilled the coolant this weekend. The cap is what allows excess pressure to escape, right? I looked at my cap and it ends in 0.

Also, the black residue seems to be coming from my cap. Does this make sense?

I have the black coolant cap and from what I read that is an aftermarket part.

There's a black rubber gasket on your old cap. Maybe it's crumbling. Hopefully, that's where the black residue came from.