Ahsai

I saw some photos and I think the Boxters cam lock tool can only lock the exhaust cam. Then there is a possibility the variocam actuator/pads may be the problem because the cam sensor picks up the cam position of the intake cam, which is linked to the exhaust cam by the short chain. So even the exhaust cam is dead on, the intake cam relies on the correct variocam actuator/pads to get to the proper position. That's also why as the variocam cam pads wear, the cam deviation goes towards negative even when the exhaust cam timing is dead on (correctly timed).

Are the variocam pads close to new?

A question. Does your cam lock tool go onto BOTH the intake and exhaust cams or it's a short version that only goes on one of the cams?

If the chain between the cams is off by a tooth, it will definitely give you problems but I thought you had verified that before when you installed the variocam actuator? Sorry it's a long thread if I remembered wrong.

The cam deviation should not need driving the car but then I've never tried not resetting the DME after timing so I can't say for sure.

Since the timing is physically verified, I think you could just reset the DME, disconnect the battery for 30min and then test drive it and rescan it. There's nothing left to do anyway?

35 minutes ago, SVATS said:

I am having a similar issue but seems slightly different than others. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

2003 996 Turbo X50

-Passenger window drops when both the inside and outside handle micro switches are activated, however the window is not dropping the full 10mm (causing a slight interference with the pillar).

-No honk when locking the car

-Double honk when unlocking

-Drivers side operates correctly (drops the full 10mm)

-I've pulled the passenger side inner/outer handle microswitches out and they have no apparent issues.

-I have Durametric, so if anyone has troubleshooting advice with this tool it would be appreciated.

Have you tried resetting the passenger window (hold switch for a few seconds after window is fully closed. Hold switch for a few second after window is fully opened)? If so and the problem still persists, it sounds like the window regulator has extra slop.

Need a lot more info. If I have to guess, someone put a stock 3.6 engine into the '99. If so, the 3.6 has variocam+ that the '99 DME would not be able to control.

Yes because that's what the error code refers to. The variable lift solenoid has its own error codes.

You may want to swap the solenoid between banks and see if the fault follows it.

You really need Durametric to further diagnose your issues.

MAF voltage is not available to OBDII. At idle (~700rpm) fully warmed up with a/c off, your MAF should read about 4g/s. If it's reading 5.7g/s under this condition, definitely something wrong with your MAF. Are you sure the MAF and airbox are from a 3.4L engine?

23 minutes ago, Michael Laity said:

It wouldn't allow me to activate on bank 2. My software basically has two lines with buttons that say the same thing about activating the valve lift on 1 and 2. So I don't know why they aren't separate.

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That's strange. Btw, you can swap the solenoids between the two banks and see if the fault follows the suspect.

Sounds like so. Did you try activating valve lift on bank 2 just to compare the difference?

No they are different. See this thread for troubleshooting and the pic for location.

https://www.renntech.org/topic/28572-p0026-codeneed-help/

Btw, the 3.6 has variocam plus and it has two solenoids that plug into the cam cover on each bank (so total 4 solenoids). The solenoids can be removed without removing the cam covers. One solenoid controls the cam timing and the other one controls the valve lift.

It's quite different than the Mk I variocam system.

27 minutes ago, Michael Laity said:

I have a durametric and a 3.6L engine in a 2003 996. I have been having variable cam issues I think. How would I activate the solanoid to test? I found an activation that says valve lift bank 1 and 2.

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Yes, you activate the lift while the engine is idling. The engine should die almost immediately and that is normal.

What codes are you getting?

More complete steps:

1) Use Durametric to activate each bank when engine is idling, the engine note and rev should change. If not, unplug the solenoid on the faulty bank and use a 9v battery to power the solenoid while the engine is idling.

2) If the variocam activates with the 9v battery (but not with Durametric), conenct a 12v 5w peanut bulb to the solenoid socket, rev engine from idle to 3k rpm. If the light bulb lights up. Problem is on the solenoid/actuator side. Otherwise, problem is on the wiring/DME side.

3) If the variocam does not activate with the 9v battery, that means the problem is on the solenoid/actuator side.

Problem on solenoid/Actuator side: Ohm out the solenoid (13 ohm or so). Remove the solenoid and use a 9v battery to power it. If the pin extends 1/8" or so, the solenoid is fine. The problem is the actuator.

Problem on wiring/DME side: check the solenoid socket gets 12v with key ON engine OFF. Check continuity of the other wire from the solenoid soceket to DME. Open up the DME and check for burnt transistor.

Refer to Figure 7 here (it shows the bank 1 solenoid but bank 2 is similar), you need to remove the cam cover just to remove the solenoid. You can put it back without issues. However, to remove the actuator, you would also need to remove the cams and re-time and engine.

The steps above should delay the need to remove the cam cover as much as possible.

Since you have Durametric, the diagnosis should be relatively easy. Just keep in mind there are a few things that can be the culprit and you have to eliminate them one by one: DME, wiring, solenoid and actuator.

i would recommend the following order:

Use Durametric to activate each bank when engine is idling, the engine note and rev should change. If not, unplug the bank 2 solenoid and use a 9v battery to power it while the engine is idling.

If it activates with the 9v battery, that means the DME/wiring is the culprit so you trace upstream the wire to the DME. Check power to solenoid and DME internal transistor.

If it does not activate with the 9v battery, that means it's either the solenoid or the actuator. Ohm out the solenoid (13 ohm or so). If that passes, remove the solenoid and use a 9v battery to power it. If the pin extends 1/8" or so, the solenoid is fine. Then the problem is the actuator.

Welcome to Renntech!

What year is your 996?

Yes, check out this thread

39 minutes ago, rhkwon said:

It's a 1999 C4 manual

99610620850 is the correct hose you are looking for then.

13 hours ago, rhkwon said:

What is the part number of that smaller diameter hose that connects to the T and goes down into the middle of the engine area right by some of the pulleys?  And is this hose connected by a plastic fitting?  My car seems to have had this hose replaced long ago with non OEM parts by a novice mechanic.

It's 99610620850

You will find all the parts you need here.  There are two coolant hoses (supply and return) and two air hoses, one to the throttle body and one to the bank2 head.

The coolant hoses and the air hose to the throttle body are easy as well. The air hose to the bank2 head will be more involved because you have to snake it through a lot of stuff over the top of the engine.

Btw, to find the right parts. Autoatlanta has the best parts diagrams.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=103-10

The bank1 cam chain tensioner accessed from the bottom is 99610518602. This is the one you should replace.

The IMS tensioner, accessed on the side on bank2 is 99610518059. You can optionally replace it too.

If you can lock the cam some how with the crank at TDC, you can replace the tensioner first. If not you can time it first then replace the tensioner, then re-time it again if timing has slipped which is possible if the current tensioner is too weak.