Ahsai

For a MkII 996, it usually takes me one to two days to get those flags all ready.

Not sure about a MkI but you can check individual flags and see which one(s) are set. Usually the misifre, O2 sensors should set first followed by SAI and evap, then the cat efficiency.

One tip is keep the rev below 3k and drive on steady speed on a freeway for 10 to 15min. Then stop the car and let it idle for 5min or so (to set the evap). Then just drive normally around down for a few days and check the readiness again.

Agreed you are better off not resetting it in that case.

Yes, I still recommend resetting the DME to set the baseline. Generic OBDII may be good enough for now till we get to see the exact codes, if any.

I would say just reset the DME with Durametric, drive the car for a week and rescan with Durametric for any pending or active codes. The reason I think the variicam issue is fixed is because the fault would have been detected quickly. Is that your experience as well from before?

Since the DME has been rebuilt, I assume everything has been reset. The relearning should not cause any pending code. My guess is your variocam issue is fixed and these new pending codes are new issues such as air leak or MAF, etc. Need the actual codes to investigate further.

Fingers crossed for you ?

Any updates of this issue? Just curious.

Btw, you can find detailed instructions from LN here.

^Good point, John.

The genuine tank for a 2000 is ~$488 (from sunsetporscheparts.com). If your tank was "only" $200~250, it's likely an aftermarket unit, perhaps with a very confusing name such as "OEM" or "Originally equipped".

If the brand new cap was genuine parts too, I can't think of why it will come loose other than thread damage on the tank. Have you taken a closer look at the threads on the coolant tank and see if they are stripped?

Sounds like so. Has it even been cross threaded? Is it a genuine Porsche coolant tank?

1 hour ago, dannyKim said:

The coolant tank has a leak and some coolant hoses have a bad condition and got to change them.

 

I would appreciate your help a lot. Thanks.

You're welcome. I saw you looking for multiple hoses at different places so I was just curious.

What's going on with your cooling system?

That's the vent line from the oil/coolant heat exchanger #30 here.

Joe is right and I stand corrected. #1 and #3 are shown in this pic.

Those hoses should be mostly hidden behind the front wheel liners.

#1 and #3 are connected to the radiators 

#33 is under the car along the transmission going to the heater core.

Per the photos on Pelican of those two hoses, it looks like the one ending with "-05", which includes the small T nipple section.

Nice find! Please let us know how it goes and whether the fix is good.

It's part #18 here. There are multiple versions depends on your year and model. 

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05

I have no first hand experience with either shop. You may want to check for their reviews online. My thinking is it's probably less hassle to deal with a single shop for everything to avoid finger pointing if things go wrong.

I've never heard of such "limp mode" explanation on variocam.

My reco at this point will be fix the DME first and go from there.

Check out ecudoctors.com too.

Yeah, it's quite likely the board (and even the transistor) have been damaged. You may want to check with mastermodule.com to see if they repair the DME. They should be capable and that will be the cheapest option. If you get a used DME, you don't know its condition also you need to bring it to a shop to reprogram it with the immobilizer.

For the +12v wire, just touch it with the red probe of the multimeter. Touch the black probe on any  ground point. Make sure key is ON engine is OFF.