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Jean-Marc

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Everything posted by Jean-Marc

  1. Jean-Marc
    I've had 3 996s: a 1998, a 2000 and now a 2003. I had 3 sets of 18" with the 2 first cars. All OEM in 7.5x18 fr and 10x18 rear. When I bought the 2003, I purchased it with 17" (for snow tires as I get to European winters) and put on an "old" set of GT3 style wheels on the car after delivery (with SO3s from my previous car). To bring the car inside Europe, they want N tires and sizes. so NO SO3s.. Since I have put the 18" on the car I needed to know what were the '03 official sizes because that's what the inspectors will want on the car. Thanks for your help JM
  2. Jean-Marc
    Hoe veerl and waneer ? JM
  3. Jean-Marc
    Thanks Loren. Since my car is an '03 it means that I need 285s... Wonder how that will feel with the 7.5" still on 225... JM
  4. Jean-Marc
    Does anyone know how easy/hard it is to change the back of the instrument cluster to kilometers per hour instead of miles per hour? I'm taking my car over to Europe and would like to remove the mph speedo "cover". I know how to switch the digital speedo but I'd like to do the analog one. TIA JM
  5. Jean-Marc
    I bought my 996 with 17" because I have 3 sets of OEM 18s in the garage but to bring my car over to the UK, I need to have N tires (I currently have SO3s) in the original sizes. Is the original size for narrow bodies 265/35 or 285/30 for the rear? THX JM
  6. Jean-Marc
    Guys, I see some "standard" lights for sale on ebay. Does this mean that someone has cracked the nut?
  7. Jean-Marc
    Strictly speaking, hardly anything provides down force on a street car. At best, you eliminate some of the lift forces. On my MY2000 996, the aerokit would reduce lift from 180kg at 200+ kph to 5 or so. No downforce though.
  8. Jean-Marc
    Strictly speaking, hardly anything provides down force on a street car. At best, you eliminate some of the lift forces. On my MY2000 996, the aerokit would reduce lift from 180kg at 200+ kph to 5 or so. No downforce though.
  9. Jean-Marc
    Yeah, me three!!! JM :D
  10. Jean-Marc
    Guys, I talked to Gert who said that the retrofit could be done but was NOT easy. Porsche purposely crossed wired inside the lights and to fix that your need a special tool or cutting wires which is not recommended on lights... You also use the auto-level feature. I will most likely do it in the spring... I anyone does it before, please post TIA JM
  11. Jean-Marc
    Thanks, I e-mailed the person selling to see what they know about retrofit JM
  12. Jean-Marc
    Thanks! Can't wait! JM
  13. Jean-Marc
    Sooooooooo, did you do it??? JM
  14. Jean-Marc
    Have you driven the car really hard (e.g on the track?). I have found that the mud guards behing the rear rotors to move towards the rotor with heat and then create horrible noise. I just use the handle of a hammer and press them back in and the noise goes away JM
  15. Jean-Marc
    That sealed it for me! I ordered a "standard" B&M!!! JM :clapping:
  16. Jean-Marc
    When are you guys doing it? I have just purchased one of the last '03s and would rather do the transmission mounted one if it works as well as the B&M I had in my 2000... TIA JM
  17. Jean-Marc
    Guys, I hope that someone will take you up on the offer. I am unfortunately (in more ways than 1) on the other coast... I checked with my dealer this morning and he said $4200 of parts only... Seems crazy! Can't wait to hear what you found out! MANY MANY MANY THX JM :clapping:
  18. Jean-Marc
    That would be soooo cool!!! :cheers:
  19. Jean-Marc
    I'm picking the car up tomorrow in Chicago (finally bought it) and I've been told by both dealers that the Litronics are not retrofittable as there are wires missing and one needs to redo wiring harnesses which takes like 10 hours they said... I sure wish that someone had a Litronic that I could try on the car to see if it's PnP! Has anyone here actually done it? JM
  20. Jean-Marc
    Does anyone know if Litronics are retrofitable to '03 cars? If yes, what is required? TIA JM
  21. Jean-Marc
    Does anyone here have any experience with camber plates? On a 996 it seems to me (please correct me if I'm wrong) that if you change camber, it also changes toe making the plate pretty useless since you need to realign the whole thing...I have also been told that there are race bottom arms with open bottoms and where you can add washers to get to the camber setting you want. Do you guys know anything about that? Thanks in advance JM :confused:
  22. Jean-Marc
    184. Clearly the speedo was being a little optimistic. For real speed, assuming OEM tire sizes, take the manual and look at the gear chart, look for the speed on the line at the RPM value.
  23. Jean-Marc
    Mine (TRG) broke in turn 1 (not tight at all and about 90mph uphill) at road Atlanta! Not a nice noise and a funky wobbly feeling in the steering after the LOUD sound. They both severed at exactly the same place. I replaced them with Gert's modified standard ones and had no problems since JM
  24. Jean-Marc
    To answer your question, take a small flash light and look at the pads inside the calipers. if you see that the thickness is at or about the hole in the pad where the electric wire is, you need to change pads. If you want, you can remove a wheel and remove the pads to really measure them. JM
  25. Jean-Marc
    Brake pad sensors are metallic wires insulated by plastic bits. There are holes in pads in which these sensors come, when the plastic is worn out (pad too thing), the light comes one. The other way to have that happen is by shorting any of the 2 conductors, for example at the connector line that goes to the pad. Maybe water helps... On average, it's time to change your pads when you have less than 1/6 of an inch left. 1/2 of an inch if you track the car (fluid more likely to boil as pads can't dissipate heat). Hope this helps JM
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