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I have the sport PASM (equipped with LSD) on my 2009 C2S. Despite some pretty bad roads that I have to drive regularly, I find the normal setting to be very tolerable. Perceived ride quality is very subjective, of course, but unless you are expecting a luxury car ride, I don't think you will be disappointed with the sport PASM. The ability to switch to sport mode if you do any autox or track sessions is a big plus, without compromising the car for daily use by making aftermarket mods.
Getting a better grip on the slick collar was the key. Thanks!
I've seen the posts and diagrams regarding removal of the PDK shift knob. I see the locking collar below the knob and the picture which shows it being turned counterclockwise. Just wondering if anyone has done this and what tool or technique you used. I'm reluctant to apply any force to this thing without knowing what to expect. Any suggestions or tips from your experience would be appreciated!
One more good reason for DIY oil changes :rolleyes:
Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. In the event this info is still relevant, I have the sport bucket seats in my 2009 Carrera S. Let me just say that if you fit in them, they are great; very supportive and comfortable even for long trips. (I drove my car for 2 weeks in Europe after taking factory delivery). I am 6'2" and 185 lbs and not too wide so I fit perfectly with an excellent driving position despite the seats lack of full adjustability. If you are a bigger person, you would probably find the seats too confining for long stints. I retrofitted GT3 seats to my '99 996 so I have the entry/exit drill down. The weight savings over the standard seats is around 50 pounds, even more when compared to a full power seat with lumbar, heat etc. This is equivilant to an additional 5-6 free horsepower, not insignificant when you figure Porsche wants almost $17K for a 23hp power kit option. Besides they look terrific!
Having searched this site and others in vain for specific info on the proper tool to remove the top mounted oil filter housing on my 2009 Carrera S, I finally found an answer and thought I'd share it. My local dealer refused to sell me a Porsche tool for the job, without checking to see if one even exists. So I called Sunset Imports, a board sponsor. Parts couldn't find a listing yet for 2009 in their tool reference, but went to check with a mechanic. According to him, there is no specialized tool yet; he uses a 36mm 12 point socket for the job. (I was able to find one for about $8 at my local Sears). He also very helpfully offered the info that the filter canister should be loosened before pulling the drain plug, as an additional 1/2 quart of oil is released into the sump when that happens. I imagine that it wouldn't matter if you loosened the filter after pulling the plug as long as the drain pan was still in place, but clearly the important point is not to button up the sump before loosening the filter. Personally, I'm just going to follow the mechanics advice. Anyway, hope this helps someone, and kudos to Sunset Imports!
I took tourist delivery last month of a Carrera S with PDK and the sport suspension option which includes the LSD. In the 1200 miles I put on the car in Europe I can't say I noticed any unusual noises from the diff. Unfortunately, the car is not back in the States yet or I would take it out for a drive right now and listen more closely for the noise you describe. If you can wait a couple of weeks or so I will follow up on this when my car arrives.
Mike in CA replied to Dwiggy's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I used Pagid S (for Sport) pads on my '99 Carrera. The are designed as a high performance street pad which is suitable for "light track use". I found them to work well for autocrossing; on the street they would sometimes squeal when cold despite being shimmed but they still stopped well, unlike race pads which need heat in them to work properly. They are also advertised to be "rotor friendly" although I'm sure they are more abrasive than stock. To your question, the Pagid S pads did dust quite a bit less than stock, but dusting was not eliminated completely. FYI, they had no provision for the wear sensors used with the stock pad.
I test drove a 2009 Carrera S with PDK and ordered one for Tourist Delivery in June. I don't mean to knock people who buy automatics as I know they have their place, but personally I wouldn't have been caught dead with an auto in any of my 3 previous Porsches. But the PDK is a game changer, IMHO. Sure, I may miss the fun of a well executed rev-matched downshift, but the PDK equipped car has it's own unique fun factor too, and is quicker and more efficient than a 6sp manual. Superior performance was always the main reason I owned a manual transmission car, and it's why I ordered the PDK.
Mike in CA replied to armstrong's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Just FYI, in case you were unaware, if you have the traction control option on a 1999 model C2 your car is also equipped with a mechanical LSD (Limited Slip Differential). The '99 C2 was the last normal (not GT3) version of the 996 with this feature. My '99 996 was so equipped. It was great for autocrossing; I could turn off the electronic traction control which tended to cut the power at inoportune moments, yet I still got the benefit of enhanced traction with the LSD. This is great info. My early 99 has TC as I see a button to turn it off. I never knew I had LSD until now! BTW, I should have mentioned one additional fact; the info on the mechanical LSD applies only to 6 speed manual equipped cars. If you have a 6 speed and TC you and your LSD are good to go!
Mike in CA replied to armstrong's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Just FYI, in case you were unaware, if you have the traction control option on a 1999 model C2 your car is also equipped with a mechanical LSD (Limited Slip Differential). The '99 C2 was the last normal (not GT3) version of the 996 with this feature. My '99 996 was so equipped. It was great for autocrossing; I could turn off the electronic traction control which tended to cut the power at inoportune moments, yet I still got the benefit of enhanced traction with the LSD.
I did my little mod today on the clutch/ignition interlock. It took all of 2 minutes to secure a cable tie around the switch to hold it closed. The engine will now start without having to depress the clutch for those occasions where that's convenient and there's no more "click-click" whenever the clutch is operated. There is no problem with the cruise control after doing this mod....it works properly as before. Legal disclaimer :rolleyes: : of course the ignition is no longer idiot proof-you must check for neutral before starting- but we all do that anyway. The photo below shows the locations of the clutch/ignition interlock switch and the cruise control disengagement switch. Cheers!
95% of the time I start the car with the clutch disengaged, but there are a few occasions when it's convenient to reach in the door, wiggle the gearshift to check for neutral, then turn the key to start without having to actually climb in. Anyway, thanks, I'm really impressed with the car.