ARModen

The answer so far is yes. Here's the upper steering shaft and column with the switches and steering wheel removed. The ELV has been removed from the column, although I did some damage in the process because I couldn't tell how it came apart and there was nothing online about it. This is the top of the lower shaft and the rubber boot still installed. They came apart fairly easily, so I anticipate the new one will slide right back into the boot/lower shaft coupling. As long as that works then it's possible to skip the whole "disassemble and remove half the exhaust header" step. Had I not mangled it in the process of learning how it was put together I could have attached a replacement ELV directly to the underside of that column without removing it. It would have still required the dealer to reprogram it, but it would have been a 1 hour job.

Has anyone added the factory TPMS back into their cayenne? I have most of my driver's side taken apart and am waiting for parts so looking for other projects I can do. It looks like the parts are available on ebay. It would be a more seemless integration than an aftermarket version. It put one of those in the boxster but only because it hooked into the new nav head unit.

Has anyone replaced a steering column? According to the manual I have to remove the primary driver side cat to remove the rubber firewall piece and the lower section of driveshaft to the U-joint. However, the shaft comes apart in the middle at that rubber boot. Is there any reason that the new upper shaft and column can't be coupled to the old lower shaft and u joint? There's nothing wrong with the steering column, it's a steering column lock issue. On that note, some pictures for people that work on this part in the future. The lock is removable fairly easily. The manual is not correct when it says that none of the parts are removable. You may still need to buy a whole new or used assembly because the parts aren't sold individually, but I'll show you how to get it apart. See these knobs? They're screws with no heads. They aren't in very tight and can be removed with vice grips, or by using a dremel tool to notch them for a screw driver. Remove those, then wiggle the cover off. The lock has one coupling bolt that is only accessible from below when the lock is unlocked. Once it's unlocked (retracted) there is a hole here: Unscrew that, and the ELV or steering column lock will come off The lock is 4 parts. There is a metal cover, a back plate, a circuit card, and a motor/gear assembly. The back plate pops out if you get a chisel or flat head screw driver between it and the rest of the case. The card slides out from there. This is the motor/gear assembly. You can test it with a 9v battery to make sure the motor and gears are still good.

Yeah, the first one is the one I've been using. The ELV A2 (supply) to A3 (ground) is reading 0VDC. I think it should be ~12VDC when the key is in the ignition. A1 (data) to ground is ~12VDC. SO far I haven't actually found the kessy module. The picture doesn't convey how many other things are in that general area. I have a replacement column and the kessy modules are fairly cheap. Perhaps I'll replace both and see if the dealer can get them programmed together. But I'd feel a lot better if I can narrow it down to what specifically is wrong before I have it towed to the dealership.

Sorry, that's actually for the power adjustments. This is a module under the column that locks the steering wheel in place when the car is turned off. I found a good diagram for it, but I'm not seeing power on the supply side of the connector. It seems to be powered from the driver identification control unit. I need to locate this and see if there is power on the output to the column. The motor and gearing that actually lock the wheel are good. So it is either a fault on the board in the locking module, the control unit, or the wiring is broken somewhere. Sadly there is pretty much no information out there on this part of the car. The usual answer is replace it all at the dealership. However, I'm not even sure which really expensive part needs replacing. My local dealership is incompetent. I'd end up paying them to easter egg around the car replacing anything they can get their hands on. Does anyone know how to get at this driver control unit? Is it the same as the keyless entry module?

Does anyone have the electrical diagrams for a 2004 Turbo? Specifically the steering column? I have a faulty switch in the column, but I'm not at home with my tools. I'd like to see if I can defeat the security switch in the column so I can drive home and replace the whole assembly.

There are too many lazy stupid people in this world. Took the head unit out and the power connector isn't connected. Why not? because someone botched up the connectors and when the amp comes on the radio sounds terrible, so I guess the dealership figured no sound was better than crappy sound.

A TSB says to update the 3.0 software with the following amplifier software: 00004320551. Is there any place that has ISO's of these old CD's?

I did a bunch of searching and the only thing I can come up with is that they are made for the eastern european market. The US spec valeo's are 046660 and 46661 with Porsche part numbers ending in 51. The other ones end in 31 and 41, and I can only find them on sites that are probably in russian: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://www.bixen.ru/xenon-parts/avto-optika/fara_dlia-Porsche/shtatnye-fary-Cayenne/088410-95563115800.html&prev=search That being said, they do appear to be the right part.

Similar to Jeppe's, but I didn't want to hijack his thread. I bought a used cayenne, and the non-Porsche dealer replaced the NAV unit with a OEM one. The sound was working originally, and they could not get it working after the repair. I have attached a picture of the error message. Various methods to reset the system have not had any effect. I read that it is either a bad component (amp), bad connection, or quite likely a software issue where one or more components need a software update. I tried following this post http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/268-summary-of-pcm21-updates/but it doesn't quite jive with what I'm seeing. I pressed trip+main and got the attached screen, and I can scroll up and down, but I can't get any more information or sub menus to come up. I've also attached a picture of the CD that was in the NAV unit. Any PCM gurus out there that can point me in the right direction?

I saw a few on ebay for ~450 USD

well the difference is that a bi-xenon will have xenon high beams or a single bulb with a shade for high and low. The cayennes have halogen high beams. My guess would be that those are the right headlights and the seller doesn't know what they're talking about. It lists bulbs used as D1S (that's the xenon main beam) and then H7 (that's the halogen high beam). I hope they are the right pieces, mine could use new headlights. I upgraded the boxster to xenons, and those assemblies set me back a good 1K+ a piece.

I think it's actually simpler. They have some aftermarket windscreens around the front and rear windows, which I think are stretching the rubber out a little bit. The whole rest of the door lines up nicely. They have also installed a similar screen in front of the sun roof. I'll probably just remove them all and see if that fixes it. I decided to buy it because 14K isn't bad for a CTT, and I like projects. The next one is hacking the most system to update the software and get the amp+CDC working. Anyone know how to pull up software versions? I read something about pressing multiple buttons at once, but apparently it was not the same version of the PCM so it didn't work. Sadly the durametrics doesn't seem to interface with the MOST/PCM systems at all.

I test drove an 04 ctt with 80k miles on it. No real big problems, except the front doors rub/hang up a little on the center pillar cover at the top. If this was an old Targa or 914 it would almost seem like frame sag. Anyone seen this? I am perhaps too critical.

I believe a blink indicates low level, solid is high temperature, so check the level detector. Also make sure you look into the reservoir, that plastic sight glass isn't a real good indication.

I'm looking at a ctt in Atlanta. But I don't have time to go there and test drive it. Anyone bored and up by duluth that can go give it a look? I just want to make sure it doesn't sound like a jar of marbles or is blowing a bunch of smoke.

Yah I see that. I'm on my phone and I missed a page apparently.

Replace the battery first. It's cheap and insufficient bus voltage does crazy things to computerized circuits.

Yeah I am looking to replace my current jeep with something that can haul stuff and dogs at the same time. I'm lacking sufficient free time to travel around and test drive much. There are some decent ones around Florida that I might look at this summer if I don't find something sooner. This one in Atlanta looks decent for the year. http://www.carmaautogroup.com/web/iui/?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F#_vehicle18354352 Of course the link didn't work right... it's an 04 ctt with 72k miles

Yeah I told them. I don't think they knew any better.

Yeah there were some obvious flags, but I wanted someone else to take a look before I put my foot in my mouth.

I was looking at a posting for a Cayenne Turbo S. This is the VIN: WP1AB29P46LA70679. Here is the posting: http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/4890268476.html According to the VIN decoder the 5th letter should be a C not a B for a turbo or turbo S. I believe that there is a titanium edition of the S model, and an S edition of the turbo model, but no turbo titanium S. There isn't some special combination that I'm missing right?

I thought the same thing. I went back and checked the receipt to make sure too. Apparently not. I got charged for 14 gallons of 92 octane. I don't think the nozzles fit the same, but I'm not sure.

Bad gas after all. Very odd, but dumping the tank and flushing the lines with fresh gas fixed it. Car started right up and idled right away. It's popped and idled rough a few times getting the rest of the crap out, but after a good drive down the highway everything seems to be working again.

What exactly does the dealer have to do with the PIWIS to get a key to work? Specifically I have a key that used to work perfectly. The battery on the boxster has been disconnected for some time. The key still works mechanically, the car starts, and the key battery is <1 year old. There are a bunch of posts on the web about getting in and turning the car on and off and pressing the button and then jumping up and down 3 times while sacrificing cats to get the key and the car to sync. I believe most of these people are either A) charlatans and/or B ) mistaking the 5 day remote entry function for a problem with their keys. I've searched for a while now and the only answers I've found are 100 versions of the previously mentioned witchcraft or the generic "take it to the dealer" answer. This seems to be solely an issue with the alarm module not recognizing the signal transmitted by the key. Is there a way to fix this at home without a PIWIS? I do have a durametrics cable, but I don't see a key programming option in there either.