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ARModen

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Everything posted by ARModen

  1. I fixed this originally by just plugging the old locking actuator back into the harness without connecting it to the column. As far as I can tell there was nothing wrong with anything, it just threw a random fault code. I think I could have fixed it easier by just having it towed to the dealership and having them reset it. Anyone know a good way to reset the alarm/immobilizer module without having to tow it to the dealership and getting screwed with a completely unnecessary towing charge?
  2. The second is actually located inside/underneath the subwoofer, which is where your spare tire would be. So if you have a spare you probably don't have the sub or the second battery. I think most ctt's have the second battery, along with the upgraded sound and subwoofer. If you remove a few bolts and disconnect the electrical connector, the sub will lift straight out and the battery box will be underneath it. Bad batteries and bad grounds are the main culprits is most electrical issues, especially the ones that seem really complicated or erratic.
  3. I used a short breaker bar with a floor jack under the end to get the nut loose. I believe it's 380ft-lbs but not positive. A 2-3 foot long wrench means ~200lbs of force so either reverse the floor jack plan, or stand on it. I probably won't even bother if I don't have a torque wrench with that range handy, just make it REAL tight with my breaker bar. I bought to the socket at Northern Tool. You may want to get a deep well so you don't need an extension to reach it.
  4. I have found the exact same problem with mine. I'm also going to fix it the same way, however, does anyone know the part number for this hose that is cracked? Mine is exactly the same as in the pictures, where the vacuum hose comes down and plugs into the other one. There are two part numbers, 95535557751 and 95535557951 both with the same description. I'm going to have to go back under the hood there because with how jumbled it is in there, it's hard to picture which is which.
  5. I'm not seeing any DIY on replacing the front CV joints and or stub axles. I assume this is because it is really easy... I'll take pictures just in case. Tools needed: 32mm 12 pt socket. (not 36mm as some online guides suggest)
  6. Some things to watch: if you don't get the o-ring seated right or it falls out while you're replacing the filter, the transmission won't be able to draw a suction on the oil in the pan and you won't be able to fill more than 3 quarts. Double check this before you tighten the filter in. When you fill initially, there are 3 steps. Fill till it starts to drain out, cycle the transmission through the gears, top off the pan. As the transmission heats up, the fluid is going to expand. If the transmission is at the right level when you start, at say 35C, it's going to dump fluid as it approaches 40. Full at 40C is the spec, so full at 39 is just a little extra and should be fine. Full at 41 is below completely full, also probably not a crisis. The key is not to expect to be able to pump more in once you've cycled the gears and topped it off once.
  7. Yeah check your connections. I caused that one time when I was taking the control module in the dash apart to replace the handle and some other stuff. So far I haven't seen the transmission shifting issue again. I guess it must have been a clogging solenoid valve port. Hopefully the thorough flush and cleaning took care of it. I've been driving it all week since the fluid change and it hasn't happened after the very first night. It didn't throw any transmission related codes when it happened. It gave me some misfire codes, but probably related to me doing 10mph in 6th gear.
  8. A lot of the complaints about the fiber system are based on people not understanding what the most system is limited to. It is only to connect the data from the cd changers, blue tooth gateway, and head unit with the amp. The speakers are just copper wires, and the connection to the can bus is just copper. With bluetooth and USB drives who needs cd changers anymore? Replace the amp in the back with a small multi-channel aftermarket one. You should be able to get all the speakers working then.
  9. Do you have the two battery option? It sounds like one of them might be dead. The car will start fine because the second battery is protected from full discharging, but it sounds like your house load battery is failing. Having an incorrect time can mess with the gps because the gps signals are timed coded, so I think the nav system is a symptom of some other problem.
  10. The gateway 500 works well, and installed fast in the 04 ctt. My only complaints are that it doesn't show track information on the head unit or instrument cluster, and it won't go back to the previous track. I think they might broth be fixed with a firmware update.
  11. Here's a puzzle for someone more familiar with the transmission control system. The ctt has 95K miles on it. It was shifting a little rough when cold, otherwise no problems. I drove several hours on the highway, and when I came down the off ramp near the house it didn't downshift. Luckily I got all green lights to the house but it never downshifted out of 6th. I tried putting it in manual to force it to change, but nothing. It went to M but wouldn't come out of 6th. Once stopped in the driveway it shifted to 3rd. I replaced the filter and flushed the fluid pretty well. (seriously.. check the filter o-ring twice before you put it back together.) Now it shifts even smoother than before, which is good, however I had the same problem with it sticking. After the oil change I drove 2 hours down the highway. When I stopped at a toll, it refused to downshift out of 6th in manual or automatic. I came to a complete stop to pay the toll, and then it shifted to 3rd and refused to up or downshift in auto and manual. Luckily, there was a rest area immediately after the toll booth. I stopped, turned the car completely off and immediately back on. The transmission returned to 2nd and I drove another half hour in 6th gear, and around town for the last 2-3 days with no problems. I don't get any weird smells, sounds, or shifts, and no fault codes leading up to the problem. I have a couple of theories, but since it is so specific about what gears it will use (only 3rd and 6th) I'm thinking that there might be a very specific solution.
  12. That being said, other than a bad tank of gas, my first boxster was very economical as my daily driver. Good gas mileage, and the thing ran like a champ well over 100k miles. I probably changed the oil twice a year and back tires once a year. That's about $500-600. I spent a lot more, but that was not routine maintenance.
  13. A very pertinent consideration is how much of the work can you do yourself? Once you're past the initial cost of buying the car, most people are caught off guard by the maintenance costs. An oil change is $90 at home and takes 15 minutes. It's $45 more than the jeep because she takes almost two big jugs of oil. Dealership quoted me (the fools) $250, and I'd guess it'd take 2 hours. That pretty much applied to everything on the car. The parts are more expensive than your average vehicle, and labor costs can get out of hand. If you're handy and you have the time you can fix just about anything with a little help from the forums and YouTube. It would be good, when you buy one, that you have alternate transportation available so you don't get stranded. My first boxster's water pump blew the second week I had it. Today, I could fix that in an afternoon. At the time I had to pay the dealership $1200 to fix it.
  14. Porsche published 03 and 06 diagrams are going to be the same. Module revs seem to be different and not entirely compatible from year to year.
  15. They put the original kessy module back in, and hooked the ELV that I removed from the original steering column and it started back up. Apparently the old column must have been mechanically bound. I removed the ELV from the new column and installed the old ELV onto the new column using the dremel/vice grips approach above and the problem is fixed. Why the new kessy module and new ELV wouldn't work is beyond me. The dealership wouldn't actually let me operate the PIWIS to see for myself hahahah
  16. First question is, are the codes you had before you replaced the sensors different than the codes you have now. It sounds like you've replaced the sensors twice and still have the original problem. If you have a short circuit in the cable between the ecu and the plug for the O2 sensors, then replacing sensors won't do any good. The cables go around the exhaust and up to the DME, so the most likely thing is that they have come in contact with something hot that has melted the insulation off and shorted them together. The other possibility is that they are pinched inbetween suspension or engine mount parts. I'd get it up on a lift and get a flash light and take a look at the harnesses going back up into the car above where the sensors plug into them. I'd guess they go straight up and then over to the driver's side and into a bundle going back to the DME in the trunk.
  17. I had this on my boxster the other day. It was a very high pitch squeak. Turns out It was a rock stuck between the hub and the rotor, took me about 5 minutes to fix. Try to narrow down which hub it's from, then jack the car up, remove that wheel and give the rotor a wiggle by hand.
  18. I don't believe either of those would be an input to the module that controls the differential. I think the PSM light will probably clear when you can drive it normally. I'd get the faults read/reset see what the ECU is telling you.
  19. If not they can be removed by a local garage or a tool you can get at the local parts store. Replacement sets aren't very expensive. It'd be interesting to hear how it goes at the dealer.
  20. Don't believe so. They're motor controlled. Have you tried backing up a few feet and trying to disengage it again? Gears could be bound up.
  21. As suspected, replacing the steering column did not clear the steering fault. When the dealership programmed the column to the kessy the steering column fault cleared but now it has an immobilizer lock active. Dealership replaced the kessy module. They can't program it now. Car is still a paperweight.
  22. I'll check it on mine. Can you post a screenshot of where you're seeing the input values? The only live input value screen I'm seeing is for the DME
  23. The new steering column arrived finally. The steering shaft itself comes completely out of the column when the retaining bracket on the top of the column is removed. The used replacement column came without one for some reason, but my old one went right into it and right into the lower shaft coupling in the firewall. Removal of cats is definitely not required. That brake switch bracket can also be left in and is good for supporting the column while it's being coupled up. Just a matter of putting trim back on and reconnecting the electric and it should be ready for a tow to the dealership to have the new lock synced with the alarm system.
  24. $192 is the cheapest I see. Doesn't seem to be anything aftermarket specifically for that part. I seriously doubt there's going to be any other source for a rear AC line for a cayenne since I don't think even the toureg's have that option. Someone could custom bend the tubing, but they would still need the fittings on the ends, so you're probably best off finding the cheapest oem supplier you can.
  25. Make sure you have everything closed. The honk means it's not entirely locked. I usually get it for something silly like the center console isn't fully closed. Which switch did you replace in your door? I'm not having alarm issues but sometimes it doesn't retract when I close the passenger door and it gets hung up on the roof.
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