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Wads

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Everything posted by Wads

  1. And the figures from Porsche for the Cayman S were fairly conservative as well!...... where as I find it hard to get that close to the official Boxster 3.2 figures in mine I easily matched the official figures for the Cayman S when I tested one recently (using an AP22 performance meter). There are a number of very good stock 1/4 mile times for the Cayman S here: http://www.dragtimes.com/results.php?carmo...earch+DragTimes So if the new 3.4 Boxster is almost as quick it does make me wonder if the extra go in the 911 is worth the large amount of extra cash needed to buy it!
  2. They don't know what they are talking about...... give them the Technical Service Bulliten number and then tell them to fix your car ASAP.
  3. There is a story going around that suggests that the removal of the air baffle and or snorkel from the 987 intake can cause fuel consumption to go from around 20mpg down to 10-12mpg!!!! Have any of you guys that have removed the baffle plate noticed any problems with fuel use or other problems in general (eg. water getting into the engine?)? :lightbulb: If you don't know what I'm talking about the thread on how and why you would do this mod is here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=mystery
  4. I had my rattle fixed a few weeks back and it hasn't rattled since.
  5. As nobody else seems to have mentioned this yet...... Porsche have just announced that the Boxster will now get the same engines (in the same state of tune) as the Cayman. So the MY07 Boxster S will have variocam plus with 295bhp. Link to the web special: http://www.porsche.com/all/centreforward/boxster/uk.aspx
  6. Sounds good so far...... keep us informed of progress! :)
  7. Yes your dealer can adjust it..... mine bites fairly early in the pedal travel.
  8. Theres no easy way to get more power in the Boxster....... you could get it chipped (around 10bhp gain and $1000+), change the air filter for a performance version (1-2bhp gain), go for a sports exhaust (maybe 5bhp). When you say you have a Boxster with trip I assume you mean its a TIPtronic rather than it has a trip computer? :P If you want a noticable performance gain you could sell the Tip and get a manual as the manual is quite a bit quicker...... Thanks for the feedback. Like I said I am new to the Porsche community and you are correct I ment to say TIPtronic. In you opion if I made all the mods you suggested I would assume to be around $5000 + . Is this extra 15 to 16 bhp going to be noticable? Will an extra 15-20bhp be noticable? yes but not much..... getting the car chipped (ECU remap) will also usually give you better low down torque..... this will probably be more noticable than the extra horses. I suspect the difference in performance between a standard manual and tip would be more noticable than 20bhp. E.g on paper the manual 987 2.7 Box is as quick as the 987 3.2S tiptronic even though it has 40bhp less........ To be honest the Boxster is more about handling than power so my opinion is that you may be wasting your money....... also don't forget that when you sell the car most Porsche buyers won't like a modified car unless you use Porsche parts.
  9. Theres no easy way to get more power in the Boxster....... you could get it chipped (around 10bhp gain and $1000+), change the air filter for a performance version (1-2bhp gain), go for a sports exhaust (maybe 5bhp). When you say you have a Boxster with trip I assume you mean its a TIPtronic rather than it has a trip computer? :P If you want a noticable performance gain you could sell the Tip and get a manual as the manual is quite a bit quicker......
  10. Any chance you could post some larger pics? I find it difficult to tell the difference between the black of the tyre from the black of the wheel arch gap in both sets of pics....... sorry!
  11. So do I sometimes but does that mean you don't think theres any truth in the idea that skipping will make the synchros work harder? It does seem to make sense after reading up on how they work. There are various technical bullitins from Honda on this saying that it shouldn't be done due to wear on the synchros but that may be specific to Honda gearboxes..... S2000, NSX and Prelude seem to be affected.
  12. A question for Toolpants or other technical boffins out there...... theres a question over on Boxanet at the moment about whether its good or bad to skip gears going up the box in a manual eg going from 2nd to 5th or 3rd to 6th. The general opinion seems to be that it doesn't matter....... however I have previously heard various things to suggest that skipping gears can place undue demands and premature wear on the synchromesh? As I ain't no technical whizz I don't know for sure but its something about the difference in rotational speed between gears....... the synchro helps blend the rotational speeds of the various parts of the gearbox when you change gear....... changing sequentially up the box means that there is as small a difference in rotational speeds between each gear so the synchro doesn't have to do much work when swapping to the next cog. However if you skip gears there is a bigger difference in rotational speeds so the synchro has to work much harder....... eg. swapping from 2nd to 6th would involved a big change. Is this total rubbish or can anyone offer the proper technical background to this? P.S. I'm only interested in the impact (or not) of skipping gears going up the box.....
  13. Another opinion........ from my experience (18"s and PS2s) in temperatures less than mid 50s it takes a good hard drive to get the tyres up to full grip, normal driving never seems to get enough heat into them. The best grip seems to come over 65 degrees and I can't say I've noticed the grip reducing when the road is very hot either? EDIT: After a bit of internet surfing the only info I can find on best operating temperatures for road tyres seem to suggest some sports rubber works best between 100 and 160 degrees F...... not air temp obviously! ;)
  14. Just a quick question. I have a 987S too and find it way too bumpy/tight with PASM on Sport all the time. Is this freeway/smooth road driving only for you or city or a mixture? I live in Palo Alto, CA and do pretty much a 50/50 split between hwy and city. Any others? I live in the UK where the road conditions are generally worse than most in the US (at least the parts of the US that I've visited)...... I find sport ok for all but the worst back roads....... however I guess it depends what you are used to, I don't find the ride that harsh because I've only driven firm suspension sports cars during the last 15 years.
  15. Are you saying that it doesn't make a better/louder sound? :unsure:
  16. Has it broken down yet? LOL only joking! but are you sure its a Stuttgart car? does the VIN have a U in it?
  17. What are they and where can I get one? I have the FM transmitter but it gets so much interferance as to be next to useless!
  18. As far as I've been told it can take upto 10 minutes or 15 miles for the ECU to fully adjust to the new fuel..... maybe because the fuel at the bottom of the tank is the old stuff. Also is there a difference between US and European fuel ratings? My 987S says to use 98RON fuel as a minimum...... our standard grade fuel is 95RON (Octane) with Super being 97, 98 or 99....... I generally run on 99RON that contains 5% Bioethanol and its MUCH better than standard 95RON gas.
  19. Chrono doesn't change the suspension PASM does....... chrono on its own won't do anything to the suspension however pressing the Sport mode button will also put PASM (if fitted) into sport mode....... each can be used independantly....... eg press Chrono button and PASM goes into stiff suspension mode, by then pressing the PASM button you can turn it back to normal mode. If you also have a tiptronic slushmatic Chrono makes the gearchanges quicker........ I haven't tried the later option because automatic sportscars shouldn't be allowed :rolleyes:
  20. A few replies to a few points...... WOT is no different...... the difference is that normally you don't simply mash your foot to the floor all the time (unless that is how you drive ;)), the big difference is throttle response...... it is a lot sharper and quicker in sport mode....... its VERY hard to explain other than saying the car feel MUCH sportier with it turned on. PSM...... on track you can simply turn PSM off however sport mode gives you a middle ground which will still cut in if you get it wrong...... on dry track days I turn PSM off (but still have sport mode on for the throttle response) but on wet track days I leave PSM on and Sport mode on...... this allows some big slip angles without the risk of a spin (my car is a company car so I'd rather not explain why I trashed it on a track ;)). The sport PSM mode is great for the road as you can have some fun without too much risk of putting the car in a ditch...... its also a great tool to teach you the limits of the cars handling...... to start with PSM would tend to cut in before I had the car fully under control but now I can get the tail out on wet corners under control without PSM doing anything....... the same levels of tail slip are NOT possible in a normal car with PSM turned on. Two other reasons why Sport Chrono is slightly more than a glorified stopwatch....... as with later PSM cuttin ABS also cuts in later allowing trail braking without interferance. A small point is also that sport mode gives you a hard rev limit cutoff so power is cut sharply at the limiter rather than tailing off smoothly in a non chrono car...... this has limited benefit to me but may be something to track stars?
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