jibbles44

I have a 98' boxster, and after a similar failure to the line and only replacing the line, a year later the coupling failed, and then the line behind the coupling, so there might be truth to what they say. I ended up having everything replaced from the slave to the master and it works like a charm now.

So I found the problem to be a leaky connection between the line coming off of the slave, and a connector. Its synonymous with parts 14 and 12 in the 996 parts diagram (sorry I couldn't find one for the boxster). I intend to have these parts replaced, but am having a bit of difficulty locating the part # and a seller. Again, the picture is for reference only, does anyone know the part numbers and possible distributor and cost for a 98 boxster? Thank you

After sitting over winter, and maybe 50 miles since taking it out, the clutch pedal was sticky about 1/2 way through the release. After a bit of that, eventually the pedal would not return out fully. It would stop maybe 1/2 - 3/4 way, but I was still able to push it in and shift normally. Once at my destination I manually pulled the pedal out and it is back to full range of motion. I have done a little searching and am going to hit it with some silicon lube, but I was just wondering if it could be an indication of a bigger impending failure? - Mark

I used to work as a valet detailing cars, and clay bar was a must have. If your surface is already smooth as glass you probably don't need to use it, but you'd be surprised the difference a good twice over with a clay bar will do. I give my car a deep exterior cleaning, including clay bar, once a year unless I'm in an environment prone to over spray, then its on an As Needed basis.

I would def check the MAF by running the car with it disconnected temporarily. That diagnostic worked for me. Perhaps just tapping the gas without being in gear and getting the same results would point towards the MAF as well instead of a mechanical transmission problem.

After checking a bit closer thanks to Lorens reply, i noticed a second horn behind the first, which seems to be un-connected. Would the apparent aftermarket install of front horn and disconnect of the back horn indicate a possible front end problem from the previous owner?

I have just cleaned out my radiators, which from the look of it has never been done before. Everything went smooth as silk except for one tiny plug that seems to be unused in the front. It is right next to what i believe to be the outside temp sensor. Here is a picture, anyone know what this is and why it isnt used? The car is a pretty standard 98 986.

So were talking about saving the 15 seconds or so it takes to hold the button while its opening/closing? If the switched looked good Id say it would be worth $100, Id buy.

Well even though no one has responded here is another update, I unhooked the MAF and ran it for 10 mins, and it ran very very well. BUT after hooking the MAF back up, and starting it and then letting it sit, the next time i started it up , the hesitations resumed. SO i am assuming a bad MAF, and from the looks of it the part isnt cheap so i will attempt to clean it first, then fork over cash for a new one. *UPDATE* - Cleaned the MAF, and no CEL for over 75 miles, no hesitations, etc. Maybe if anyone else has an 1127 and 1129 this will help solve their problem.

So for the first time i got a cel on my 98' 986. I went to a dealer and they read codes 1127 / 1129 which state the fuel air mix is to rich. The past few times I've started the car up , I have noticed that there was a slight hesitation when tapping the gas in neutral, but after no more than 5 mins of running, any hesitation went away. I had them clear the codes, and am awaiting to see if he light comes back on. I have done some searches and find people replacing MAF and fuel pressure regulators / injectors, is there a best plan of attack when faced with this problem? *Update* - After about 30 miles driving it after the codes were cleared the cel came back on. I am guessing it isn't a single fuel injector problem due to both cylinder banks reporting a rich air/fuel mixture. What is more likely, a MAF or fuel pressure regulator? Any Input?

What kind of car are those seats in? It looks like a Boxster, but the top down cover and headrest roll bars look very "off"?

So the story goes like this (98' Boxster): Two years ago after getting the car outta the garage after a 4 month winter I was driving on the highway and BAM smoke everywhere. . Goes to the shop, water pump is shot.. OK the car has 80000 miles on it, I'll fork over the cash to fix something that should last a while. . This year, got the car outta the garage after another 4 month winter, had the 90,000 mile tune up, and not 100 miles after getting it outta the garage I hear a strange squeak / rattle / metal on metal noise. Take it to the shop and apparently its another water pump, the bearings are shot. Luckily the part is under warranty but its still frustrating. I asked the service guy what could cause two water pumps to fail in two years, and he thinks its due to the extended periods of sitting the car does. He made this guess before knowing that in 2 years I've only put 5000 miles on it, but I still find it hard to believe. Is it just me or does it sound really weird for 2 water pumps to go out in 2 years? I'm obviously gonna have another water pump put in, but does anyone have any suggestions on things I can have them look at or do to possibly prevent this? - Mark

Thanks guys, I had them change the order to the OE Bosch.

So im going to have an early 90000 mile tune up done on my car for summer. . I am not going to a porsche dealer, but having a local place that I used to work at do it instead for well below 1/2 the quoted cost of the dealer. The only question I have is, a mechanic there, that has worked on porsches before suggeted going with the NGKs instead of the Bosches. . After reading as many posts on here as i could find about the NGKs I am not so sure i trust him. To the people that have NGKs in their car, do you regret it? Have you noticed any problems? and what plug did you put in? . . To the people that say stick with OEM, would you go with the standard 2 prong bosche or the 4 prong? How strongly opposed to the NGKs are you? My car has over 80000 miles on it, I def. dont want to damage it in any way shape or form, i just want to keep it running smoothly. Oh yeah, its a non S, 98.

So in looking at the different diagnostic equip. out there, the durametric laptop system seems extreamlly cheap yet effective. Currently I have an airbag light on in my car, (i think its from the passenger side seat belt), and it seems to me it would be much easier to just buy the $287 durametric system than to go to a dealer and have them tell me whats wrong. In addition it would be nice to be able to read any other faults that may come up in the future etc. Anyone have experience with the durametric systems, would it be able to read any fault, etc? . . Here is the link i was looking at: http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx

So I just put in a CDR-220 (used) to replace my CR-210. Here were the simple steps I took: 1) disconnect battery 2) remove cr210 3) install cdr220 4) reconnect battery After reconnecting the battery, without putting the car key in, the LED blinks on the CDR220, but when i put the car key in and turn it to accessory and then push the radio "ON" button, the LED goes off, but nothing happens... No "code" screen, no "wait" screen, absolutly no illumination to the new unit at all. When i take the car key out, the unit returns to its led blinking. When taking the cr210 out, there was the small two wire connector attatched to the sleeve, but after examining how it worked on the cr210, I am assuming it is ok to leave it idle behind the new unit, which is what Im doing now. Beyond that my next spot to trouble shoot would be the small switch on the inside of socket A, since the unit seems to be getting power, yet not illuminating, perhaps the switch is not being engaged or is faulty. Other than that, i would say the new unit is a dud. . . Has anyone had a similar experience, or have any ideas that may help? UPDATE: after fooling around with the connection, I determined it isnt a problem with Socket A, it now seems like a bad "ON" button, perhaps I'll take the faceplate apart.. I also called becker audio directly and the guy told me to disconnect it, and reconnect it after 30 seconds cause sometimes when you connect the battery it gives the radio a "jolt" and "messes it up". . . I hope i can find better help here. HAH Much would be appreciated, **** Final Update, Problem Solved! **** Took apart the front of the unit, and found one of the red ribbon cables was disconnected (the on the "ON" button side), reconnected ribbon, and works like a charm. I do not know how to remove this topic, otherwise i would. - Mark

Forgive me if this has already been covered, I did a quick search and could not find exactly what I was looking for. . Currently I have a CR-210 in my car i beleive ( cassette with 6CD under the hood ) , and i want to switch over to a CDR-220 (Single CD fold down faceplate ). I was wondering if this is a direclty plug and play application as far as the wiring goes, or if any modification would be needed. Also Would the CD changer under the hood still work? Im sure there are lots of ppl that have swapped out the Cassette deck, any feedback on what you did and how easy or difficult and how you like it would be much appreciated.

Give Don a call at Zotz Garage 407-678-6789, they do my work! I just called about the 60k tuneup, and they quoted $1175. I also agree thats fairly high for more of an inspection than a tune up.

I was interested in this, but this link is dead http://www.porsche-1.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=2868 and i cant seem to find many other topics discussing this. . Has anyone else attempted a full instrument panel / A/C panel etc color change?