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1080iAddict

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Everything posted by 1080iAddict

  1. At some point in 05, they added the functionality. All 06 cars have the functionality. If you don't have it, you can't get it. It is NOT software upgradable. This has been talked about alot on other Boards. So, don't shoot the messenger. You are, as they say, SOL. At least you have a Porsche so keep smiling. :clapping:
  2. Folks, I successfully installed the Sirius Satellite Radio into my 997 via the MOST fiber optic system. I have a 2006 997S with PCM 2.1B. I used the Cayenne Sirius Parts kit. Pix are below and the part numbers are below. Note that this is NOT supported by PAG. It is a custom installation using Cayenne parts. Note also that you must proceed at your own risk. You must have PCM 2.1B. When ordering parts kit, differentiate between XM or Sirius and whether or not you have a CD changer (different part numbers for CD changer or not CD changer). The antenna replaces the NAV antenna under the cowl cover. It works FANTASTIC. p.s. I also included antenna install pix in the cowl cover (under the wipers) (both before and after).
  3. Sirius SAT Radio - MOST Integration SUCCESSFUL - 997 Folks, I successfully installed the Sirius Satellite Radio into my 997 via the MOST fiber optic system. I have a 2006 997S with PCM 2.1B. I used the Cayenne Sirius Parts kit. Pix are below and the part numbers are below. Note that this is NOT supported by PAG. It is a custom installation using Cayenne parts. Note also that you must proceed at your own risk. You must have PCM 2.1B. When ordering parts kit, differentiate between XM or Sirius and whether or not you have a CD changer (diffe Author 1080iAddict Category Carrera (997-1) - Mods Submitted 02/28/2006 01:09 PM
  4. Posters on other Boards are saying that Porsche now has sat radio available for the 997 as an official after-market dealer install. They also post that new orders have sat radio as an available option code. Anyone have any news on this breaking info? Is there an official 997 part number now for sirius and XM?
  5. Darn, thought I might be able to give some hands on help. The thought is greatly appreciated. When the parts get here I may have other questions. I am going to snoop around tonight in the trunk.
  6. TSBs are published (and sent out to subscribers) every quarter - so I am expecting them any time now. Maybe its not a TSB. But is there an 'instruction sheet' as to how to remove that plastic assembly under the wipers where the gps antenna is located? Sorry if I am being a bother, but I will post instructions if I get the sat radio installed and working in the 997.
  7. I called parts and I am told parts should be here in about a week. The trick is going to be gaining access to the existing GPS antenna. This resides under the plastic assembly beneath the wipers, or so I am told. Anyone wanna help me figure out how to gain access to this antenna? Do I need to remove the wipers? It looks as if there is a 'cap' at each end of that assembly. Do I remove the cap to get to the screws? A TSB on NAV install in a 997 would be quite helpful because presumably it discusses the GPS antenna installation.
  8. I will let you know shortly. :D I have the Sirius parts on order now for my 2006 997S!!!! :king: Loren, the TSB has definitive PIWIS instructions. This leads me to believe it is required. I guess the question is...if the MOST Actual and MOST Required parameters match up exactly when you look it up on PIWIS, i.e., without needing to actually change any settings in PIWIS and instead just read the screen, it begs the question as to whether you needed to hook up PIWIS at all. In that case, would it be 'plug and play' without needing PIWIS? I will soon have an answer for this question. Do you have any info that would shed light? Point of reference...adding the CD changer has similar steps in that the TSB for the CD changer has steps for PIWIS hook-up. But maybe the latest PCM2.1B changes whether PIWIS is required if the parameters already match up, unless this has always been the case. Of course, I have never even seen PIWIS - yet. :jump: See what happens? I become a contributing member, pay my $25.00, stay up all night and read TSBs on Renntech and learn enough to become dangerous. :rolleyes:
  9. I will let you know shortly. :D I have the Sirius parts on order now for my 2006 997S!!!! :king:
  10. This thread is a Do-It-Yourself installation tutorial for a V1 (or any powered radar detector) hardwire windshield installation to a switched power source at the interior dome light. It is noted that this installation was performed on a 2006 997S with the Self-Dimming Mirrors option. If you do not have this option, I cannot guarantee you will have the necessary wire harness because the switched power source is the same source that powers the self-dimming rear view mirror. As of this posting, I have experienced no side effects. The mirror works and so do the rain sensing wipers (same wire harness). Thanks to member MJONES and TNUNNERY at Rennlist.com for their help, as well as LOREN here at RennTech that gave me the key lead to the possible wire color combinations. Total install time is about 2 hours. Good luck and enjoy!!!! Disclaimer: Naturally, I make no warranties express or implied. I am solely documenting what I did to my own vehicle. I am not affiliated with Porsche. Proceed at your own risk, discretion and abilities!!!! In other words, you are on your own!!! :P Step 1: Locate the straight power wire with the modular connectors on each end. Cut this cable about 6 inches from either end. Strip the wires on the 6" piece to expose the black, yellow, green and red wires. Cut the black and Yellow wires. NOTE: THE GREEN WIRE WILL BE HOT (POSITIVE) AND THE RED WIRE WILL BE GROUND (NEGATIVE) DURING THE REMAINDER OF THE INSTALL. Coat the ends of the green and red wires with solder using a soldering iron. Step 2: Locate the direct wire harness, and cut the red fuse red wire leaving about 3 inches on each end. Then cut the black wire to have about 4 inches of wire. Strip both ends on each wire and coat the bare ends with solder using a soldering iron. Step 3: Remove the dome light assembly by pulling down on the plastic assembly at the point near the windshield. Step 4: Pass the modular wire you prepared between the windshield and the dome light assembly housing so that the modular plug is hanging in front of the windshield and the bare wires are inside the light assembly housing. Step 5: Now, use a blanket to cover the interior of the car in case you drip some solder. Then, solder one end of the red wire with the fuse to the green wire on the modular wire assembly. Next, solder one end of the black wire you prepared to the red wire on the modular wire assembly. Let it cool, and use either heat shrink tubing or electrical tape and tape it up. Step 6: Locate the 10 wire harness inside the dome light assembly (there are only 9 wires in there) and remove the black tape carefully with a project knife. The wire at pin 2 is switched 12VDC (THIS WIRE IS BLACK / ORANGE and the wire at pin 10 is ground (THIS WIRE IS BROWN). THERE ARE PIN NUMBERS ON THE SOCKET. NOTE: LOOK AT THE WIRES GOING DOWN TO THE MIRROR - NOT THE WIRES THAT GO UP INTO THE ROOF WHICH ARE DIFFERENT COLORS). You really wont get this wrong - its pretty intuitive (yeah right - now that we know which wires they are - this is the magic here). Step 7: Using wire cutters, CAREFULLY cut 1/4 way down on the wire to 'grip' and 'pull' the insulation back on each of the two wires. Apply solder to the bare wire. If you cut it by accident, it will blow up in 5 seconds. GET OUT OF THE GARAGE. Kidding. If you cut it, just twist the ends back together, but what you want to do is solder the remaining end of the red fuse wire to the ORANGE / BLACK wire and the other end of the black wire to the BROWN wire. Then, apply tape or shrink tubing. Do it slowly and neatly. After this step, plug the modular plug into the V1 and it should NOT work (no key in ignition). Then place the key in the ignition and turn the key on and it SHOULD work!! If it doesn't, you probably did not turn on the V1 or you got the polarities reversed (this happened to me because the cable to power the V1 is actually a crossover modular cable - - but follow these instructions and you will be OK). Step 8: Pack it all back in the dome light assembly neatly and replace the dome light. Step 9: Test your work and take a look. You now have a hardwire switched V1 with no cables!!!! And, That's it!!! Enjoy!!!! - Adam
  11. V1 Switched Power Hardwire Installation This thread is a Do-It-Yourself installation tutorial for a V1 (or any powered radar detector) hardwire windshield installation to a switched power source at the interior dome light. It is noted that this installation was performed on a 2006 997S with the Self-Dimming Mirrors option. If you do not have this option, I cannot guarantee you will have the necessary wire harness because the switched power source is the same source that powers the self-dimming rear view mirror. As of this posting, I Author 1080iAddict Category Carrera (997-1) - Mods Submitted 09/20/2005 04:53 PM Updated 02/27/2010 03:55 PM
  12. My manual has tire pressure information on page 232. (2006 997S owners manual)
  13. Loren, Two quick questions: 1. Do you know if the plastic assembly behind the rear view mirror simply unsnaps if i pull the sides hard enough or if i put a straight edge in the crease to separate the sides? It's on there incredibly tight and I do not want to break it. 2. If I wanted to remove the interior cabin light clear plastic assembly at the headliner, do I simply pull it down from the windshield side, i.e., if one were to change a bulb up there? It too is held on incredibly tight. I want to search for wires in those locations to measure for switched 12 volts. This car is put together real tight and I am nervous to take these steps without asking first. Thanks!!
  14. Thanks, that's a start. I am going to gently try and unsnap that plastic housing behind the rearview mirror and hunt for those colored wires.
  15. I am about to embark on my V1 installation design criteria. Here is my plan. I would like to install the V1 under the rearview mirror. I have the self-dimming rearview mirror. When the ignition key is removed, the small power light in the mirror goes out. When the ignition key is inserted, the small power light in the rearview mirror goes on. What does this tell us? Well, it tells us there is a switched power source in that mirror that travels down the wire stalk from the headliner to a plastic cover thing. That plastic cover thing has the white LED that illuminates the interior of the cabin (well, supposedly illuminates anyway). Then there is a separate small wire stalk that travels to the mirror. I think i can remove the plastic cover in between the two wire stalks and access the wires in there and meter the wires to find the switched power source and the ground. If that switched source is 12 volts, we just may have found a new V1 install design. There would be no visible wires save the 2 inch run from the V1 to the plastic thing. I did this in the M5 and it worked. Same theory applies here. In theory. Thoughts on this approach?
  16. Yes its the rear seat side panel on the drivers side. It is leather - black leather (NOT leatherette). This is a US car - NOT a ROW car. Thanks!!!
  17. Well, hmmmm. It looks like item "10" but I guess it could be item "7"??? I cant get the pix edited and attached but you see the speaker grill? Its the part the speaker grill attaches to. I think that entire piece is the part, i.e., the entire panel. However, this picture looks as if the panel at issue is on the passenger side, while I need the driver side panel. -ACH
  18. Loren, I appreciate your helpful advice to other posters. Perhaps I can borrow 5 minutes of your time. I did a stupid thing on my new 2 day old 997S. With the windstop installed, I was adjusting the drivers seat to set the seat memories and sure enough I was moving the seat around and it was pressing back on the windstop (without my knowledge) and the windstop 'snapped' out of the mounting hole behind the drivers seat. Two bad things happened. First, the windstop cracked. The dealer ordered me another windstop under warranty so that is a good thing. However, the mounting peg on the windstop 'snapped' backwards when it came out of the hole on the drivers side and scraped the leather behind the mounting hole. It is not a big scrape, but it did have the effect of removing the top coat of leather and there is a small indentation. It by no means is a major rip or scrape, but I know its there and it remains the one imperfection on the new ride. I am evaluating replacing the panel depending on the difficulty level and cost. The panel appears to be one cohesive unit that holds the windstop mounting hole plastic thing, the speaker, etc. The scrape is right behind the windstop mounting hole. However, I have the full leather interior package (in black) along with the all leather adaptive sport seats. Thus, that panel appears to be covered in black leather with some stitching, etc. I 'think' the entire panel gets replaced as the fix. Thus, my questions: 1. I am assuming the panel just gets replaced with the leather already installed on it, as opposed to some other methodology. Do you have a part number and cost? Its the drivers side panel behind the drivers seat that holds the windstop hole and speaker. 2. How hard is it to do this? I cannot imagine its a huge job, i.e., if they needed to replace a speaker they would probably need to remove and re-install this panel. Thanks, Adam
  19. Unfortunately on the 997 the sound cutout is done by the DME CPU so there is no analog relay to bypass. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> OK then. Can you whip me up a DME firmware upgrade? B)
  20. Seems like this mod was written up for the 996 (even though its here in the 996/997 section). Has anyone done this mod on a 997 yet?
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