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mattatk

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Everything posted by mattatk

  1. Further, my DME diagnosis manual (factory) states that the ignition advance @ warm idle should be 5.3 +/- 0.5 degrees crank. The parameters in the manual are for Bosch DME 5.2, my 2001 986 S has a Bosch DME 7.2, should the numbers be the same? If not does anyone have a listing of the warm idle figures for my car please? I've changed my spark plugs, cleaned the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body & changed the air filter. The other parameters look OK (although idle rpm fluctuates between 675 & 710 - yes within limits but still hunts a bit) except my camshaft deviation is out of limits at a steady 8 degrees (can only monitor one side as it is ROW car). The car feels a bit down on power/acceleration, as posted separately (I do accel runs with a iPhone dyno app which may not be that accurate but good for picking up trends). Anyone got any ideas for what could be causing deviations in ignition advance/timing? or the loss of power on accel please? Cheers, Matt
  2. Firstly thanks Logray for the reply. My car is 2001. All the way up to 3000RPM & above, the camshaft deviation readings stay fixed, bank 1 @ -8.02 (second test -7.94) & bank 2 @ 0.00.
  3. Sorry to jump on the thread but having just checked my camshaft deviations, my bank 2 is a steady 0 but bank 1 is s steady -8.02. Is that indicative of bank 1 being out of limits or a bad sensor? Thanks in advance, Matt
  4. G'day again, Noticed today on my GoLINK app that my ignition advance at idle is hovering at 5deg, but occasionally cycles between 3 & 5deg, whereas at 3000+ RPM it is steady at 35deg. Is it normal to fluctuate at idle? Having said that my idle wanders slightly @ 685-705 RPM. I feel that even though that those idle figures are normal, you can feel a slight hunt or "burble" in the idle. The car is warmed up My Maintenance manual only has the 2.5lt engine parameters which state ignition advance @ warm idle should be 5 +/-1.25deg, so these figures are within limits, but should they fluctuate? Thanks in advance, Matt
  5. Yes, I carried out the flywheel test as per TSB, it passed, although it didn't quite spring right back to the original position. I probably stuffed up by VERY lightly removing the disc surface hot spots. As for the fuel additives, Shell quote that V Power fuel has engine cleaning additives already (it's bloody expensive fuel!).
  6. Logray, The throttle body was cleaned a few days ago. pk2 & Logray, Yes I was thinking about the spark plugs & will change them on the next opportunity. I don't have the compression testing equipment, but will look into it. Thanks & I'll post an update for anyone interested. Cheers, Matt
  7. G'day All, Been doing the 0-100km/h run in my 2001 Boxster S (manual) recently & she struggles in at 6.9seconds. The book figures (depending on the book) state 5.9 s & two years ago I managed to pull off a 5.4s. My question is drawing a long bow, what do you think could be causing this slight lack of acceleration? Some history: 1. Changed the clutch last year (but didn't change the flywheel, although it had a few hot spots). 2. Changed the AOS after a bit of smoking, had to clean throttle body & wipe out oil from plenum chambers. 3. Tires are getting a little old (although there was virtually no wheel spin in test takeoff). 4. Regular oil changes with Mobil1 (mix of 0W-40 & 5W-50). 5. Use Shell V Power (98 octane). My only guess is that the problem lies in the flywheel, as on the initial takeoff, the car appears to lurch forward, pause for a millisecond & then continue with the acceleration. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, matt
  8. Thanks for the quick reply Logray, I might just replace the tank to be sure. These forums are really worth their weight in gold!
  9. Did you manage to fix the leak? My bleed valve was also showing signs of crusty deposits around the screws & misting on the boot lid. I changed the cap & o-rings but still get misting on the boot lid but no crusting around the bleeder screws yet. When I pulled one of the screws out it took a spiral of the plastic housing with it. Can the housing be easily replaced or is there a trick to rethread the screw or a bigger screw with wider thread? Thanks in advance.
  10. I had a similar clutch issue on boxster s (986). Pedal engagement height changed over time like you've indicated. Occasionally slipped the clutch a bit. When I changed the clutch last year I went to bleed as per the maintenance manual, kept pedal fully depressed with a pressure bleeder on the reservoir. No fluid would come out of bleeder nipple, so against good judgement I pumped the clutch pedal as well, causing a sporadic flow of fluid out the nipple (all clean fluid, no debris). Obviously master wasn't behaving so I replaced it, & it works beautifully now. I dissected the master cylinder to investigate, rubber seal on actuator shaft was deteriorated, allowing fluid past the shaft (must've been unloading hydraulic effort whilst pedal was depressed). Hope this doesn't create more confusion, but you could try bleeding the clutch to see if the master behaves accordingly, or just to pick up any leaks under pressure.
  11. The GL-1 cable is a direct connection from iphone to OBD2 port, not wifi.
  12. And again, well said Loren! Renntech has saved me at least $1000 (albeit Aussie dollars!) in the last 18 months of my Porsche ownership. There may not be a continuous flow of postings, but what is there is good quality, timely advice.
  13. Interesting, as my sales book definitely states four spoke steering wheel (with leather).
  14. For the iPhone, I use GoPoint's GL-1 cable & GoLink app. Reads standard OBD2 data & supposedly throws up codes (haven't had any yet!). They also make CarBonga app which checks for TSB & recalls on your car.
  15. G'day, my "Porsche Boxster & Boxster S" sales book (dated 2000) states that the three spoke wheel is standard, but there is a four spoke wheel option (check for option code X26 under bonnet & in manual) . Otherwise I'd ask a few q's about it. Cheers, Matt (also in australia)
  16. Email Durametric & hassle them for some Apple love :). I have. If they get enough requests they might see the light. Also, GoPoint are upgrading the GoLINK cable (GL-2) to do more things? I am keen to see what it does.
  17. I use GoLINK, ReadyLINK & CARbonga with my iPhone 3GS (& the GL1 cable obviously). I haven't had any codes on my boxster s yet, so I don't know how good it is at that job! When I emailed GoPoint, they stated that the codes are generic OBD2. CARbonga recognizes the type of car & scans for any service bulletins & recalls on your model (01 986S had one recall & seven bulletins). ReadyLINK looks purely for codes, whilst GoLINK displays lots of OBD2 data as well. 1. engine load, 2. throttle position, 3. inlet temp, 4. coolant temp, 5. RPM, 6. speed (6km/h less than speedo!), 7. long & short term fuel trim, 8. oxygen sensors (pre & post cat), 9. kms driven with MIL light, 10. MPG. I think that's it from memory, the cool function is that it syncs the data to your "garage" at Fuzzy Luke, so you can look for trends over time. BTW, I have nothing to do with GoPoint, just a user & I've been emailing them to work with Durametric. I'd love to have the Durametric program on my iPhone! Unfortunately they don't think that there's a big enough market for Porsche driving iPhone nuts.
  18. G'day all, Just inspected oil filter after an oil change & noted three small (2mm) slivers of metal, in the shape of a fingernail clipping (thin, small curved crescent). My magnet picked them out of the filter. Has anyone seen any debris like this? I'm wondering if they ate shavings off a bearing (IMS) or possibly even part of a thread off a screw (?!). Apon closer inspection, the crescent shaped flakes are very thin & the largest has a very slight lip on its outer edge of the curve. Thanks in advance.
  19. Wow, thanks for the quick & thorough reply!! Looking at your bushing image, mine looks the same, the rubber isn't completely surrounding the inner bearing. All the rubber joints look good, just dirty. I think I'm going to change the shock mounts first, whilst on leave, & take if from there. I really appreciate the input as this is my first suspension job. Cheers, Matt
  20. G'day all, I've been searching the forums for suspension advice for a squeak I get over sharp bumps at slow-mod speeds. I think I've narrowed it down to the wishbone/lower control arm. My dumb question is: When inspecting the various bushings/joints, what am I looking for? I'm guessing wear & tear on the rubber, but does it have to be torn/cracked for it to be unserviceable? When I lay under the right wishbone I can see right through a part of the rubber bushing. Having said that the left wishbone rubber bushing appears to have thinner rubber in line with the car axis(ie. the rubber isn't symmetrical about the central bearing, there appears to be more rubber in one axis). Can anyone confirm whether the rubber is consistent thickness around the central bearing of the wishbone? Or if you should be able to see through part of it (probably NOT I guess)? Do I need to replace both left & right wishbones (like struts & tyres)? Also, when checking the rear struts, one has a slight oil leak from the main strut housing. Does that make it immediately unserviceable? When pushing down on that corner of the car, it springs back up in one oscillation crisply. Thank you very much for your time guys, Matt P.S. With car up on stands (wheels still on) & wiggling the top of the front springs makes a clicking noise at the top of the strut tower? Is the bearing gone? Nuts are all torques to spec 24ftlbs & 59ftlbs respectively.
  21. Is THAT what that screw is for? Cheers!
  22. Looked at the workshop manual & it implies that, if there is a fault/sensor tripped when you arm the alarm (picked up in initial 10 second period), it will isolate that sensor & arm the other sensors & lets you know by beeping the horn, turning on the interior light for 2 seconds & double flashing on the alarm LED on the dash. The sensors monitored are: 1. left door, 2. right door, 3. front hood, 4. rear hood, 5. oddments' tray, 6. convertible top compartment lid, 7. radio, 8. infra red sensor of passenger compartment (with hood closed), 9. alarm horn (removal), 10. activation of the ignition switch, 11. invalid transponder in key in ignition, 12. interruption of voltage to alarm control module. I am wondering if cycling the fuse in & out might trip the last mentioned sensor (12)? Try putting the fuse back in & cycling the alarm off & on with your key. If the alarm keeps sounding, then there must be stray electricity somewhere, short circuit or faulty ground, or the alarm control module is faulty. Somehow the alarm isn't isolating the faulty sensor & turning the other sensors on. Otherwise if, after 10 seconds, you get the abovementioned signals (LED double flashes, etc) then the system is telling you that it has armed the alarm sensors, excluding one or more faulty sensors. Then you can use the process of elimination to check each sensor, by arming the alarm & tripping one sensor at a time to see if it sets the alarm off. I have heard online that the oddments' tray sensor can be temperamental, the tray needs to be pushed down to firmly to activate the microswitch. Good luck!! BTW, are you referring to the 15A fuse in the actual alarm control module? (lives in between the two electrical connectors on the module)
  23. Not sure about aftermarket horns but I replaced my 986S horn part 996 637 117 03 from Pelican Parts, was only around $12 (east pacific pesos!). I also had a stray current at the horn connector, I don't have the circuit diagrams handy, but I remember there is a monitoring circuit flowing.
  24. Yep, mine is also 6km/h out at 100km/h on the speedo. At 60km/h indicated it's only 3km/h out though.
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