Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

mattatk

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    82
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mattatk

  1. So what caused the noise? I must admit I have a similar noise which kicks in when accelerating the engine (driving in gear or stationary in neutral). Cheers
  2. Took it to the nice guys at NinePlus. Turned out the key head circuit board was failing (corrosion?). Bit the bullet with a new key & reprogramming, all works OK. Using the faulty key on the door lock was triggering the 59 code. No more reoccurrences!
  3. Thanks Richard, I'm going to see if the dealer will look at it for me but let me do the work if it's not too difficult. Cheers
  4. Thanks again Richard. The door plugs & pins looked brand new. I'll have a look at the door lock module & try to find the micro switch. Because I can't trust the Durametric's alarm system activations (there are no visible signs of them working when selected) & the fact that it may not work 100% for a ROW car, it is hard to use it to eliminate which signal is stuffing the alarm around. For example, if you open the driver's door (RHS) it shows the alarm horn "closed". I reckon their software is only set up for US cars?
  5. I've reset the code too many times! It comes every drive cycle I think. Having said that the car alarm works fine by putting the key in the lock. I just want to solve the mystery! I don't think it's the door lock, as the troubleshooting is failing prior (upstream - electrically) to the lock. Somewhere between the door plug & the alarm module. I opened up the alarm casing & it all looked spotty dog. ???
  6. The car can be locked by physically putting the key(s) in the door. But the key remotes won't do anything anymore (no lock/unlock, no boot or trunk opening). I've run through all the advice on this forum & in manuals for the remotes (apart from taking it to Porsche!). Remotes have new batteries, Their circuit boards look good. Their LEDs flash when operated (no response from car's LED). Durametric pulls alarm fault code 59. It's a problem you could live with, but it's nice to be able to use the remote.
  7. Wow thanks for the responses guys... Reconnected battery to finish "alarm fault 59 - central locking limit switch not reaching safe position" Troubleshooting by the factory manuals. Phew, no airbag deployment, ended up getting battery voltage correctly displayed on the pin. Test procedure failed at 2 spots. 1. Alarm module plug I pin 19 to door plug pin 9 only showed infinite ohms (no circuit?) 2. Alarm module plug II pin 8 to door plug pin 2 also only showed infinite ohms & 0 V Richard, I guess along the lines of your ROW post, the passenger door plug had no pins at position 2 (& a few other spots)?? Must be a ROW issue. Repair manuals show RHD diagrams but I guess no ROW diagrams. So I think there is a short(s) along the 2 lines mentioned above? Checked as much of wiring as possible, all looks brand new. Both wires travel together a bit & I thought maybe they are shorting to each other?? Having said that, I am wondering if Durametric's "secure doors" activation is not actually working. (Can't close door for test as the voltmeter has to touch the door plug pin) Now confused, to pull wire out & rewire would be one hell of a job?? Any ideas??? Thanks to anyone reading this far!!!
  8. Thanks Loren. But am I at risk of setting airbag off if I reconnect the battery with passenger seat out & alarm module removed? I can't see why, but want to check first!!
  9. G'day all, I've disconnected battery -ve terminal on battery to remove seat to follow maintenance manuals alarm troubleshooting. One step reqs checking for battery voltage from one pin to a ground point. Does that mean I have to reconnect the battery so I can check for voltage? Is that a prob ref airbags? Thanks in advance
  10. Mate, I had similar with my 01 S. changed master cylinder & problem went away. Pulled master apart out of curiosity & internal rubber seal was eroded & obviously was letting fluid past. Good luck!
  11. Guys, When the variocam solenoid is activated with the car running at idle (with Durametric), the RPM should surge up momentarily& then return to idle. What do you reckon is wrong if, on one bank, the RPM surges but doesn't increase as much as the other (approx. 600RPM vs 1200RPM on good side)?? I am guessing that the variocam system is trying to work but something is stopping the full actuation??!? Thanks in advance
  12. Loren, I'm fascinated, what is the correct way to launch a Porsche?
  13. Well my master cylinder failed, symptoms were the same as general clutch failing until I bled the clutch, well I couldn't bleed it (with pedal depressed & pressure bleeder attached, no fluid would flow). Replaced it & pulled old one apart, failed seals inside.
  14. Thanks, I'm going to change the pulley first & see if that settled it down
  15. What happened in the end? With the belt removed, my belt tensioner doesn't spring back the full distance. I can apply slight anti-clockwise pressure on 24mm wrench on tensioner pulley & the arm moves a bit further up. Is that a sign of a faulty belt tensioner? Also with the belt back on & engine running the belt tensioner pulley has a bit of a buzz to it (felt through a screwdriver held against 24mm bolt in pulley). Is it just the pulley bearings giving up or the slack in the belt tensioner causing the vibe/buzz? Thanks in advance. Matt
  16. I replaced mine last year, pretty easy job. I bought mine off eBay here is a link for an eBay seller in the UK (I got mine from UK too). Not sure if they are the right product: http://stores.ebay.com/p-an-d-keys/Porsche-/_i.html?_fsub=1987996017 Just make sure they are : mountain tactile switch Part: 101-TF25S-EV Dimensions: 7.3mm 3.8mm 2.5 mm Operating force: 400gf This is a link to the data on the switch, you might be able to buy off them: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-101233.pdf
  17. Logray, I commend you on your effort, persistence & care....it is wonderful to have an expert around to discuss these issues. Thanks & I owe you a beer if you're ever in Australia!!! When I get home from work I'll test the sensor & give it a good test drive to see if it's improved. You are right, it is still running well, I'm just overmaintaining her & noticed a slight burble on the idle & loss of overall power. Thanks again
  18. Yep fixed the air leak. With regards to the cam timing, that was my initial thought too. Although, I followed the procedure to the letter. I locked TDC compression & checked the timing bank 1, which was out a small amount, so I rotated the crank forward another 1.5 turns & watched for the timing to line up, loosened the cam sprocket bolts (de coupling) & then adjusted the crank back to TDC compression (needed to rotate counterclockwise a fraction, approx 8mm at the circumference of the wheel). Same procedure for bank 2 with a similar adjustment. The Durametric shows an increase in camshaft deviation by a degree (from 8 to 9 degrees deviation), so if it & the sensor are correct, I need to reverse my adjustment by at least 8mm clockwise to go back to where I started & then approx 64mm (8 degrees x 8mm) further to bring the deviation back to zero. The problem then is that the camshaft tool won't fit in the slots as they will be off the vertical ???? Reading the DIY guide, I want the marks on the camshaft ends to line up vertical (ie. hold the cam timing tool) & have the crank at TDC (compression for bank 1 & exhaust for bank 2)....Is this incorrect, as that is where I'm at?
  19. OK, borrowed timing tool, got parts & got stuck into the cam timing as per the link above. All went well except it's pretty tight with engine in car! The only problems I came across were; 1. green camshaft plug. While stabbing the plug to pull it off in a tight spot, I popped the plug into the engine!!! With some strong narrow wire I managed to hook it back up to the entry point & pull it out. Was a tense 20 minute diversion! 2. new torx head bolts for the scavenge pumps. At the rear right of the engine, I couldn't get the driver with a torx adaptor onto the lower 2 bolts due to clearance from a structural member. I bought 2 normal bolts, the same spec as the old 10mm hex head bolts, & used loctite. Those scavenge pumps were pretty tight & messy (pre lubricated with oil) to get back into the engine. Turned car over & it idled nicely. BUT....cam deviation bank 1 now shows -9 degrees!! Worse than before the op, -8 degrees. I've reviewed the procedure & all done correcty. Does that mean my sensor is out? When I get back from work i'm going to put the underbody supports back on & take her for a test drive.
  20. Thanks for the advice, I've just rechecked the MAF, it seems OK (had a clean last month) & shows 15kg/hr at idle & 50kg/hr at 3000 rpm. So far, I've found a crack in the small air hose from resonator cross tube in intake (very narrow hard plastic line that runs to the left front of engine.
  21. It's a 2001 Boxster S with 110000km. I'll chase down a timing tool & post the findings eventually. Thanks again & thanks for the good variocam link. Cheers Matt
  22. Yes throttle body cleaned about month ago when replacing faulty AOS, no idle control valve as it's a egas model. MAF cleaned as per Pelican Parts tasks. Idle does hunt continuously (though within limits) Ignition advance mainly stays in limits but the way it hunts & sporadically drops outside of 5.3+/-0.5 makes me wonder if it is causing the idle fluctuations. On a graph the cam deviation looks rock steady, but when I re-check the figures (re load the actual value screens on durametric) the cam dev has dropped slightly, towards the limit +/- 4 deg. I don't actually see the figure drop on the graph, that's why I thought it might be a sensor or software issue. Do you know limits for actual camshaft angles at idle & 3000 rpm? I'll get onto the timing & check the vacuum & post any findings in case someone else could benefit from this. Thanks again SO much, I better donate again!!!! Matt
  23. Finally got laptop working again! Warm idle is OK but fluctuating 683-715 rpm. Ignition timing/advance fluctuates 3.75 - 7 degrees crank (mostly sits around 5.25 degrees) Camshaft 1 deviation steady @ -7.92 but as car warmed up it showed -7.56 then later -7.45 degrees (is it actually changing or is it possible error on data/sensor?) ACTUAL ANGLE -0.5 degrees (with occasional deviations down to -0.33) & then up to 23.3 degrees @ 3100 rpm (couldn't hold it at 3000 rpm) All other parameters fine except: Rough running 11.4 (too high, 6.3+/-1.5) Rough running on individual cylinders holding @ 0 with occasional spikes to -0.5 FRA bank 1 1.12 steady (too high, limit 0.96 +/- 0.03) FRA bank 2 1.09 steady (ditto) RKAT range 1 bank 1 -2.53 RKAT range 1 bank 2 -2.2 (are these RKATs the TRA range 1 in the workshop manual??) My next step is to do the timing adjustment as above & re-record the figures. I can't get my head around the FRA & TRA or RKAT figures, the RKAT or TRA figures at -2.2 are WAY below 0+/-0.06, does that mean she's trying to add a lot of fuel or that she's to rich & trying to lean it out?!) Cheers again, Matt
  24. Thanks Logray for the reply yet again! Yep, my manual's figures are the same. I'll investigate the reflash idea, I've noticed that the ROW cars are pretty scant on data gathering. My understanding is that the ignition advance is adjusted by the DME to optimise the ignition & obtain info from the knock sensors (obviously to prevent detonation). Could it be possible that the knock sensors are driving the ignition advance back & forth? (correctly or erroneously). What other sensors feed the ignition advance solution? My laptop is down at the moment, so I'll post the "actual angles parameters" early next week. This link; http://986forum.com/...timing-m96.html details a simple retiming procedure (appears pretty similar to the workshop manual on initial inspection). I am guessing this is what you mean. I've carried out the procedure as far as checking the exhaust cam's notches & they do appear to be slightly off time, but I haven't had the time (courage?) yet to adjust it. If I loosen the sprocket bolts, could there be any tension in the system that could cause the timing to jump? Thanks again for your tireless efforts, it is wonderful to be part of this excellent website. Matt
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.