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About mattatk

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    Porsche Boxster S

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mattatk's Achievements


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  1. So what caused the noise? I must admit I have a similar noise which kicks in when accelerating the engine (driving in gear or stationary in neutral). Cheers
  2. Took it to the nice guys at NinePlus. Turned out the key head circuit board was failing (corrosion?). Bit the bullet with a new key & reprogramming, all works OK. Using the faulty key on the door lock was triggering the 59 code. No more reoccurrences!
  3. Thanks Richard, I'm going to see if the dealer will look at it for me but let me do the work if it's not too difficult. Cheers
  4. Thanks again Richard. The door plugs & pins looked brand new. I'll have a look at the door lock module & try to find the micro switch. Because I can't trust the Durametric's alarm system activations (there are no visible signs of them working when selected) & the fact that it may not work 100% for a ROW car, it is hard to use it to eliminate which signal is stuffing the alarm around. For example, if you open the driver's door (RHS) it shows the alarm horn "closed". I reckon their software is only set up for US cars?
  5. I've reset the code too many times! It comes every drive cycle I think. Having said that the car alarm works fine by putting the key in the lock. I just want to solve the mystery! I don't think it's the door lock, as the troubleshooting is failing prior (upstream - electrically) to the lock. Somewhere between the door plug & the alarm module. I opened up the alarm casing & it all looked spotty dog. ???
  6. The car can be locked by physically putting the key(s) in the door. But the key remotes won't do anything anymore (no lock/unlock, no boot or trunk opening). I've run through all the advice on this forum & in manuals for the remotes (apart from taking it to Porsche!). Remotes have new batteries, Their circuit boards look good. Their LEDs flash when operated (no response from car's LED). Durametric pulls alarm fault code 59. It's a problem you could live with, but it's nice to be able to use the remote.
  7. Wow thanks for the responses guys... Reconnected battery to finish "alarm fault 59 - central locking limit switch not reaching safe position" Troubleshooting by the factory manuals. Phew, no airbag deployment, ended up getting battery voltage correctly displayed on the pin. Test procedure failed at 2 spots. 1. Alarm module plug I pin 19 to door plug pin 9 only showed infinite ohms (no circuit?) 2. Alarm module plug II pin 8 to door plug pin 2 also only showed infinite ohms & 0 V Richard, I guess along the lines of your ROW post, the passenger door plug had no pins at position 2 (& a few other spots)?? Must be a ROW issue. Repair manuals show RHD diagrams but I guess no ROW diagrams. So I think there is a short(s) along the 2 lines mentioned above? Checked as much of wiring as possible, all looks brand new. Both wires travel together a bit & I thought maybe they are shorting to each other?? Having said that, I am wondering if Durametric's "secure doors" activation is not actually working. (Can't close door for test as the voltmeter has to touch the door plug pin) Now confused, to pull wire out & rewire would be one hell of a job?? Any ideas??? Thanks to anyone reading this far!!!
  8. Thanks Loren. But am I at risk of setting airbag off if I reconnect the battery with passenger seat out & alarm module removed? I can't see why, but want to check first!!
  9. G'day all, I've disconnected battery -ve terminal on battery to remove seat to follow maintenance manuals alarm troubleshooting. One step reqs checking for battery voltage from one pin to a ground point. Does that mean I have to reconnect the battery so I can check for voltage? Is that a prob ref airbags? Thanks in advance
  10. Mate, I had similar with my 01 S. changed master cylinder & problem went away. Pulled master apart out of curiosity & internal rubber seal was eroded & obviously was letting fluid past. Good luck!
  11. Guys, When the variocam solenoid is activated with the car running at idle (with Durametric), the RPM should surge up momentarily& then return to idle. What do you reckon is wrong if, on one bank, the RPM surges but doesn't increase as much as the other (approx. 600RPM vs 1200RPM on good side)?? I am guessing that the variocam system is trying to work but something is stopping the full actuation??!? Thanks in advance
  12. Loren, I'm fascinated, what is the correct way to launch a Porsche?
  13. Well my master cylinder failed, symptoms were the same as general clutch failing until I bled the clutch, well I couldn't bleed it (with pedal depressed & pressure bleeder attached, no fluid would flow). Replaced it & pulled old one apart, failed seals inside.
  14. Thanks, I'm going to change the pulley first & see if that settled it down
  15. What happened in the end? With the belt removed, my belt tensioner doesn't spring back the full distance. I can apply slight anti-clockwise pressure on 24mm wrench on tensioner pulley & the arm moves a bit further up. Is that a sign of a faulty belt tensioner? Also with the belt back on & engine running the belt tensioner pulley has a bit of a buzz to it (felt through a screwdriver held against 24mm bolt in pulley). Is it just the pulley bearings giving up or the slack in the belt tensioner causing the vibe/buzz? Thanks in advance. Matt
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