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That's what I was thinking; if any of the plugs in the engine came out, there should be "consequences", but you haven't mentioned any. I wonder if it was an "extra" left in there when the unit was assembled? It does look like it may have never been used, the only place that I think it could have come from is perhaps the in the return oil galley from the head to the oil sump. I have attached more photos tell me what you think.
I pulled my oil pan today and found no metal filings but I found a small freeze plug about the size of a nickle. Any clue where it may belong and is it important? I have attached a photo any help would be appreciated.
I just checked radiator temp by turning on AC and the air exiting was warm. The car must not be getting hot enough at idle. I must just being over cautious. I do appreciate the help. Thank You Frank
I have checked fuses and pulled relays and jumped each one of them. when jumped the fans operate and when AC is engaged the fans operate. I just let the car run for half hour and the fans did not come on. I reached into radiator ducts and radiators did not seem warm. Could a faulty thermostat be the problem? My temp reads rite on the O of 180, and by the way I am in Houston so cold ambient temp should not be an issue. Thanks Frank
Frank: Is it possible that It may have been that way before you repaired the heater box foam, but may not have been aware of it? The fans and the two speeds are controlled by four relays (two for each fan, with each of the two sets having a low speed and a high speed) and two ballast resistors (one on each side). Since the fans are working (even though it's only on the high speed), it's not the fan motors and not the fuses. If you want to double check the fuses, they are C8 (radiator fan right) and C10 (radiator fan left). Both are 40 amp fuses. The ballast resistors' ceramic coating frequently crack because they get hot and are then sometimes splashed by cold water (as when you go over a puddle). The relay tray is located on the left kick panel, to the left of, and below the level of your left knee as you sit in the driver's seat. Here is a photo showing the location of the relays and the fuses (click on it for a good look): For reference to locate the relay tray, you can just see the top of the dead pedal in the bottom right corner. The four relays are in the lowest visible position when the fuse panel cover is still on (there is another row of relay receptacles below the visible row, but no relays installed in that row). The left low speed is position 19 in the relay tray, the right low speed is position 21 in the relay tray. Fuse Row C is two rows below row A, and position "10" is closest to the side shown by the fuse arrow. To test whether your resistors are bad (and thus not causing the fans to go on low speed), with the engine running and the engine temp below 206 degrees (e.g., engine cold), put your finger on relay 19 and then press the snowflake button on and off to turn on your a/c on and off. You should be able to feel (and hear) the relay clicking. Repeat with relay 21. If the relay clicks and the low speed fan does not go on, then your resistor is the most likely culprit. If the relay does not click, then the relay itself may be faulty, or there is a problem with the wiring or fuse. Again, if the high speed fan is running, it's not the fuse. The resistor is part number 996.616.101.00 although there may be a TSB with an updated part number for a new design resistor pack. Here is a photo of what the resistor looks like on the right side and its location behind the fan housing, near the frame rail: Note that you will have to remove the front of the wheel well liner to access it for viewing and replacement. Keep us posted with what you find. Regards, Maurice.
I have a 2000 Boxster S, and after completing the heater box foam repair and properly purging cooling system I noticed that my radiator fans did not come on when operating temp was reached, but they do work when AC is in operation. Any clues for determining fault would be appreciated.
I have posted prior about this issue and have corrected oil over fill issue and replaced A.O.S. When I turn left slightly uphill under high rpm leaving a light the car emits a large cloud of smoke, I do not burn oil otherwise. I can only assume due to the forces of cornering and exceleration the oil in the sump is forced into the A.O.S pickup. Is there a cure for this,ie:windage tray or better A.O.S, or is there a more serious problem i should be looking into? 2000 Boxster s 110,000 miles Your advice is apreciated
My newly aquired Boxster S blows smoke when cornering hard to the left, otherwise it does not smoke at all. I have replaced the AOS and the car ran much better but I took a hard left today and it belched a cloud of smoke. The oil was just changed by previous owner, the oil gage in car is peged at full and the dipstick has oil above red plastic part. Will this happen if there is too much oil in crank case?