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ALBERTQ17

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About ALBERTQ17

  • Birthday 12/03/1979

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  • From
    L.A. California
  • Porsche Club
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  • Present cars
    99 Boxster

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  1. ALBERTQ17
    I don't know how much the stock battery weighs, but I know its more than 14 lbs. BatCap 800 Albert
  2. ALBERTQ17
    Here are three options for running four speakers and two door subs with one amplifier. 1. Get a 6 ch amplifier. They are not a lot of options, but they are out there. ( JL Audio G6600 ) 2. Get a 5 ch amplifier. Power the door speakers on the sub ch either in parallel or series depending on the resistance of the speakers and the rating of the amp. 3. Get a 4 ch amplifier. Get one that will double it's output when connected to half the load. For example: 100 watts into 2 ohms, and 50 watts into 4 ohms, which is very common. Connect each side of mid and high frequency speakers in parallel to two of the channels, and bridge the door speakers to the other channels using the amps crossover to separate frequencies between the speakers. If you go this rout, I think you should go with an aftermarket sub for the doors. I think the factory door subs are 2 ohms, so if you connect them in parallel your amp will see a 1 ohm load that it will not like, and if you connect them in series, the amp will see 4 ohms and it will give you 50 watts for both speakers while the other speakers get 50 watts each. you can play with the gain controls but it's still not the ideal situation. Hope this helps Albert
  3. ALBERTQ17
    Congratulations on your new to you baby. I really like that color combination. I wouldn't recommend upgrading to the CDR-220. I have the 220 in my car and I think that it's a unit you upgrade from not to. My first Boxster had a Sony head unit that blended into the interior of my car very well. It wasn't flashy and it had the screen and buttons light up amber to match the oem look. There is an infinite amount of options when it comes to aftermarket head units. It's just a matter of what you are looking for and how much you are willing to spend. As for the Porsche functions you mentioned, I believe that some aftermarket units have the speed sensor feature. If the new unit is wired correctly it should stay on as long as the stock one did after removing the key. Here are a couple of threads to help you. Thread link Thread link You really can't go wrong with a speaker upgrade as almost any aftermarket speaker will be better than stock. Replacing them will require a little work but very doable. Here is a and a thread to give an idea. I recommend changing your speakers first as they will make the biggest difference in your system, then upgrade your CD player to get access to different types of media like your Ipod. Hope this helps Albert
  4. ALBERTQ17
    If I were you, I wouldn't keep the amp. I say that because I didn't keep mine. I kept the stock head unit , replaced the amp and all the speakers. If you use the internal amp in your new CD player and later decide you want more, you can always install an amplifier. But just the speaker change will be a vast improvement on what you have now. You want to upgrade the "converters" first. The CD player coverts the bumps on a CD to an electrical signal, and speakers convert that signal into sound. Albert
  5. ALBERTQ17
    The Nokia amplifier has an internal crossover for the door and dash speakers. As Demick said, the door speakers are subs which handle the bass frequencies and the dash speakers play the highs. If you replace the door subs with aftermarket full range speakers while still running the Nokia amp, you will hear low frequency distortion from the doors. Most aftermarket full range speakers are 4 ohm, and the door subs you have right now are 2 ohm. That means that your new speakers will be substantially underpowered compared to your dash speakers, which will give you the distortion when you turn up the volume. The Becker cascade pro 7941 will give you 30 watts peak power and 18 watts rms according to their website. If you run all four speakers from the Becker and select an nice pair of speakers with a high sensitivity (db) I'm sure you will be pleased. Check out my door enclosures and let me know if you are interested in a pair. Enclosures link Hope this helps
  6. ALBERTQ17
    I haven't put any enclosures on Ebay because right now I've been building them for people who have bought them through Paypay only. I lowered the price of the sub enclosure, and have sold one without the sub. The door enclosures have been selling more than the sub box, I even sent a pair to the UK last week. Right now there is kind of a waiting list but I keep everyone updated on the progress of the their enclosures until they are shipped and delivered. And I always stay in touch for any question or comments. If you are interested or have questions e-mail me. albertq17@yahoo.com Albert
  7. ALBERTQ17
    I think the best way to power the amplifier is to have a dedicated power cable connected to the battery and a ground cable connected to the chassis of the car. The power and ground cables should be the same gauge and it is regularly recommended to keep the ground cable no more than 18" long, the shorter the better. Put a fuse in the power cable as close to the battery as you can. The size of the fuse and cables should be determined by the amplifier. There is a rubber plug behind the battery that I used to rout the cable into the cabin, then you can hide the cables under the carpet or under the center console. As for the signal, getting signal from your rear deck speakers is not ideal but if you want to do it, I think your best bet is to get a low level converter so you can connect RCA cables to the input of the amplifier. I hope this helps. I sent you a PM concerning the door enclosures. Albert
  8. ALBERTQ17
    I sent you a PM.
  9. ALBERTQ17
    If I can remember correctly, the internal volume of the subwoofer enclosure is about 0.5 cu. ft. I'll measure again to have an exact number for you. The door eclosures have .05 cu. ft. or 95 cu. in. I started selling them late last year for $125 shipped. I'm sending some to the UK this week for a little more just to cover the shipping difference. 2 eight inch woofers will not fit because Pioneer recommends .4 cu. ft. for each woofer, which is about all I can get out of the enclosure. The sub enclosures that I'm making are copies of the one I made for myself a while back. I wanted only one eight inch speaker because to me it's more than adequate for a small cabin. That's why there is no rear speakers either. Albert
  10. ALBERTQ17
    Tony, I have sold several pairs of door enclosures over some months now. They are made to fit 6-1/2" inch speakers and have a max depth clearance of 2-7/16". Although I cam make them for any size speaker smaller than 6-1/2". Sad to hear about your accident. You had a very nice set up and must have sounded great. As far as the 3-1/2" rear fill speakers in the sub box, there is space for them but its not as easy as making holes for them and screwing them in. I would have to make a separate chamber for them inside the larger enclosure. I didn't put them in the original box I made for myself because I didn't want the rear speakers in my system. But they can fit with some modifications. Albert
  11. ALBERTQ17
    Here is the Ebay listing if anybody wants to take a look. Ebay link Albert
  12. ALBERTQ17
    No they are not the originals. I made them from fiberglass, mdf and the mounting ring is plywood covered with sound deadening material. They are sealed enclosures and extremely lightweight, not ported and heavy like the oem. I made them to fit the door cavity just like the factory enclosure with the exception of the bottom part.They replaced some baffles I cut out when I first got a pair of 6-1/2" speakers and the diffrence was incredible! That's Awesome work! DO you have a baffle template, or more pictures? Here are some more pictures of the door enclosures.What you see is not just a baffle that holds a speaker in place, it is a speaker box. What I didn't like about the baffle is that there was no way to control the sound waves coming from the rear of the speaker. And there are a lot of problems associated with that. Even free air speakers were meant to be installed with a separation from the front and rear of the cone.
  13. ALBERTQ17
    No they are not the originals. I made them from fiberglass, mdf and the mounting ring is plywood covered with sound deadening material. They are sealed enclosures and extremely lightweight, not ported and heavy like the oem. I made them to fit the door cavity just like the factory enclosure with the exception of the bottom part.They replaced some baffles I cut out when I first got a pair of 6-1/2" speakers and the diffrence was incredible!
  14. ALBERTQ17
    Yes. It would have looked better if the speaker were in the middle but you are right, it is impossible because of the depression you mentioned.
  15. ALBERTQ17
    Hello all, I have been working on a subwoofer enclosure for some time now. I didn't want to use the passenger footwell area or the space behind the seats so I fit a 8" shallow sub from Pioneer (TS-SW841D) into an enclosure that is the same shape and size as the rear storage compartment. I have one installed in my Boxster receiving 200 watts and it sounds great. I will be putting one for sale on e-bay shortly as I know that quite a few of you Boxster owners want a better sounding system. I attached some pictures so you can see what i did. Also attached is a picture of some sealed enclosures that I made to fit some 6-1/2" speakers in my doors. What do you guys think? Albert
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