brekas

The latest fix really isn't all that complicated, though the latest technical info calls for a different fix for the pre 00 cars than the newer cars.  Both involve new belt buckles and new connectors and connector housings.  If you have a basic knowledge of crimping and soldering and can follow instructions you can do it yourself.  Pretty much the only tool out of the ordinary you will need is an E12 torx socket, which you use to remove the seat bolts.

Sent you a PM.

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thanks PTEC...sent you a reply this AM

thanks...they're just much tighter than i expected them to be...thanks.

trying to remove the button blanks surrounding the ashtray...have the center piece removed but can't seem to find the trick to release the blanks...also do the wire harnesses connected to the window buttons just pull off or is there a trick to releasing them...just don't want to break anything...TIA

the seat belt buckles have been a problem since day one, if you can do it your self baum Tools has a scanner that will clear the lights

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thanks for the tip

Anytime a new AC control unit is replaced you must perform a system test with the PST2 tester in which the "blinking" of the display will stop.

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thanks...i was hoping it was something simple like that...i'll have my dealer do it when i take it in for hibernation this winter.

Ok so i replaced the climate control unit that died on me last fall...the good news...the new unit works...couple of questions...when i first hooked the battery back up and put key in and turned to the first position the CC headunit display blinked...once i hit a button or turned the key further it stopped blinking...also while the CC headunit seemed to work, the fan wasn't coming on...after coming in and checking how to switch from C to F display i went back out and the fan will blow the doors off...weird...could it just be the computer getting recalibrated?...any ideas...as always, thanks.

thanks jeff...i agree...i agree it's hard to believe this (and the ignition switch) didn't warrant a recall...chalk it up to the price of owning a porsche i guess...

hindsight is 20/20...I should have asked the dealer to preemptively fix some of these "known" issues before my warranty ended...

The dealer reset the idiot light when they diagnosed it so for the time being i'll keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't come back...BTW, sorry for asking for the TSB...saw the note about contributing members having access to TSBs in the TSB section after i initially posted...thanks for the pics hopefully i won't need them

you're not alone...my '98 is having some issues...replacing the climate control head unit...DIY and save about 50%...it's easy...my visors "failed" too...$13 to get a new one at sunsetimports.com...airbag warning came on (the dreaded buckle!) so that might have to be fixed too...dealer reset the light so we'll see if it comes back...otherwise i'm gonna do it myself...parts are $100 a seat and the dealer wants $400+...you gotta expect some of this

try my reply in the thread immediately below... "wet trunk"...your drain plugs might be clogged, but i haven't heard of it getting the passenger compartment wet

here's where they are ... http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/index.html

go to skyler's boxster and click on "drain points" link

your drain holes are probably plugged

took my '98 boxster in for oil change and to turn off airbag warning light...i was hoping it was just an electrical fault from the battery being out over the winter, but it was the driver seat belt buckle...don't get me started on this given that there were at least 3 TSBs on this "faulty" component...dealer wants $400 plus to "fix" just the driver side...i can buy the updated wire harness and buckle for $100 so i figure i might as well DIY it...was hoping someone might have the TSB and/or instructions on the fix...i realize i'll have to have the dealer clear the light after do the job...thanks

try bumperplugs.com

thanks loren

i have a '98 986

my climate control head unit is dead; part number is 996 653 101 01

the replacement unit that i received today is 996 653 101 03

are these the same? thanks.

bret

Why are you asking questions about a potential problem you do not have.

Want to hook up a microwave oven.

Toaster.

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;-) lol

no just trying to learn a little bit...i realize there's a limit always, cabling, fuses, relays etc...just trying to make sense of the limitations...for what i'm doing as you said i'm nowhere close to stressing the circuit...thanks for the help.

The fuse for that circuit is 7.5 amps.  I can't imagine that all of your 3 devices draw that much current even if all 3 are on at the same.

Electrical devices usually have a sticker to tell you the current draw.  If it is beyond the rating of the fuse then the fuse blows.

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great thanks...so if you happen to overload a circuit patching additional items into it could you simply use a higher amped fuse?...obviously i would tap into other circuits before overloading a single one...thanks again...i'll have to go find a basic auto electrical book

Hi,

I've successfully hard wired my V1 to the power/telephone circuit using the becker wiring harness...I'm about to hardwire a garage remote tapping the free always on 12V and am consider hardwiring an ipod cradle while I have everything torn open...When/How do you know if you are putting to much of a load on a specific circuit...I'm guessing it's not an issue with the garage remote and even the ipod but am curious how to calculate tolerable loads when tapping various circuits.

thanks,

Bret

This is great to see how the gauge faces come off.  But how do you remove the cluster from the car in the first step?  Haven't found any information on how to do that.  Thank you

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TRY THIS

http://boxsters.addr.com/hacks/cluster.htm