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About pab997

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 Carrera Coupe
  1. I think there was some goodwill because I didn't have to pay the full amount. I just can't determine from the bill if PCNA came through or if it was just the dealer. I basically just paid diagnostic charges and install labor. Still $350 though a lot cheaper than having to pay everything. I don't understand why this unit would fail but I'd really like to know what I could do in the furture to prevent this. I need to sit in that drivers seat and I'm tall so I need it down low. Maybe just a cost of ownership. I was thinking about calling PCNA to get their take but I haven't got around to that yet.
  2. About a week ago the airbag light went on and wouldn't go out. Car about 45 days out of warantee. Nice timing. Anyways according to TSBs code 80BA means a software error and unit needs to be replaced. Took to dealer and they confirmed. They said the control unit was located under the drivers seat and that the most comon cause of failure is water on the unit or getting something caught under the seat and causing a short. Well I know it's never got wet under there but I do keep the seat down low. From what I can find, it looks like the airbag unit is located under the center of the dash. Does anyone know for sure what control units are located under each seat? The dealer said they had to replace harness and control unit under driver's seat. The dealer also said the DME is located under the passenger seat. Loren can you confirm? Anyone else have same issue?
  3. Follow-up, Here's some additional info for 997's additional tools: t25 torx driver 11mm crows foot socket (3/8" drive) 10" long drive extension (3/8" drive) 3/8" ratchet, small 5 1/2" long or less to make things easier to access, you should remove the rear body pan which blocks access to the transmission. Use the torx driver to remove two screws on either side of pan. Slide pan to the rear to remove. I used the crow's foot socket to access the clutch bleed screw. I placed the bleed hose on first and then I put the crow's foot/extensionl over the top of the solid hydraulic line and rested it on the top of the bleeder screw. Attach the ratchet and loosen (lefty loosey). You can only go about a third of a turn but that is plenty. You can let go of the tool and it will stay in place. Go about following the clutch bleed instructions as outlined in the 996 DIY forum. here's photos of the tools and how I had them arranged under the car.
  4. I know the manual transmission is different in the 997 vs the 996. Does the clutch bleed procedure differ for this transmission? The only obvious outside difference I see is that there is a 3 loop coil in the hydraulic line feeding the slave cylinder. The reason I ask is that I followed the 996 bleeding procedure but I was unable to pull the clutch pedal back up more than an inch or so. I rebled and this time left the pressure bleeder on and the bleeder screw open just a pinch. I was able to pull the pedal up but the last 1/4 of the travel (towards resting position) seems like the pedal is disengaged from the master. Is there a different mechanism for the clutch pedal in the 997? When I drive the car, I have to depress the clutch about 7/8s of the way before the clutch disengages. Seems like air in the system but I am at a loss on how to get it out of there. I am using ate gold brake fluid and the motive power bleeder. What am I missing? I want to run an autocross this weekend but the car is in no shape to do that at the moment. I have a 997 C2 3.6L :help: Loren, any ideas?
  5. Those wheels work fine on the narrow body 997 too. I picked up a set for a great price and I love them. They really fill out the wheel wells. I might have to get some 5mm spacers for the front to make it look even better.
  6. Surprise,surprise, there is a fix. I brought my car in today for some other warranty issues and when I picked it up, I found out my shift cable and bracket was replaced. It was under open campaign #w557. The parts replaced were shift bracket 997 424 165 03 and cables 997 424 041 01. The shift lever is very firm again. It was getting sloppy feeling. 2nd gear feels a lot better now. 1st felt very stiff but the temps were really cold here in Illinois (28 F, burrrr) and I really didn't drive far enough to warm it up. :clapping:
  7. Went to dealer, they said they couldn't find a leak. It is oil separator line. They claim they tightend the clamp but when I looked at it, it looks like it is a slide on coupling. There is no clamp to be tightend. I cleaned the area and will continue watching for liquid.
  8. here's some pictures of the area I'm speaking of. I noted the area I'm speaking of
  9. I was changing my air fiter today and I noticed some type of fluid leak on the right side of the engine. There is a pipe that connects near the front (drive belt end) of the engine. It has wet fluid and dirt stuck to it where it connects to the engine. It is bolted to the top of the right hand cyinder head. It runs from the rear of the engine compartment up to this point. It is right near the air conditioner. I can't tell if it is an oil pipe or coolant. I think oil but not sure. I'm going to bring it into the dealer but I'm curious what it carries. Maybe it is part of the PVC system? Any ideas. I'll try to take a picture but it's pretty tight in there 2005 997 c2 manual
  10. Loren, I was looking under the front of my car investigating possible damage from an unplanned off-road excursion and I noticed an opening on the underside of the front bumber/spoiler on the right hand side. When I look up through there, I see the horn and a few wiring harnesses. It's basically right behing the baffle that directs air to the right side radiator. Is there suppose to be a cover on that opening or has it always been open and I never noticed it. A breakdown of the front bumber cover would be nice. Thanks 2005 997 c2 3.6L non-areo
  11. Mine seems to be getting better with age. Either I'm getting use to it or things are starting to loosen up. I've only got 5K on it so it is still quite new. It really helps to make sure you've fully depressed the clutch. A friend suggested moving up the driver's seat slightly to make sure I was fully depressing the clutch pedal. There really seems to be a long clutch pedal travel compared to the japanese imports I'm used to.
  12. You also must consider the diameter of the brake rotor with the caliper attached. Standard 997 uses same size brakes as 996. The 997s uses slightly larger caliper and rotor up front but still looks like it would fit in a 17 inch diameter rim. The ceramic brakes on the other hand look quite large and I doubt they would work with anything less than 19". just something else to consider.
  13. I have both the Graco turbo booster and the Britax Parkway or whatever it was called last year. The Graco's don't fit in the 997 because they have a squared off back. The Graco's are the kid's favortite. The Britax fit perfectly. They have a rounded back that slides perfectly in the seat. I bought two for way less than one Porsche booster would cost. The only issue with Britax is that the head piece goes directly over the child's shoulders. My 6.5 year old is only average height and the seat is already hitting the C pillar. We're tempted to take him out because the belts seem to sit just right on him in those small seats. The other issue is that the booster takes away some leg room. You have to teach the kids to cross legs or straddle the front seat. Easy for the 6 year old, not so easy for the 3yr old. Have fun. Once the kids are in, I make a couple of quick acceleration runs or hard turns and they forget about the tight quarters and giggle the rest of the way. They make a great cheering section, kind of like the devil wispering in your ear" go like a race car dad"
  14. I use Britax booster seats in the rear with no problems. They have a rounded back and fit nicely in the seats. I tried graco boosters but they have a flat back, so they did not fit fully flush with the seat back. I don't use any tethers. The problem with the rear seats is that the younger kids have short legs that don't allow them to bend their legs to put their feet under the seat. It gets better around 5yrs old. My 6yr old could probably ride without a booster since the seats are so small.
  15. I been surfing the net for possibles upgrades since I can't drive my car this time of year. I came across two similar items that claim to fix the sloppy shift feel in the 996 and 997 6 speeds. One is called "Agency Power Short Shift Link" and the other is "EVOMS Billet Shift Link". Both claim to be a drop-in replacement for the original shift linkage attachment on the botom of the shifter. The difeerence being that the Porsche original is plastic with some type of spring mechanism and the replacements are aluminum with a plastic type insert. Suppose to attach to original cable and adjust the same as the original. The claim is that this part has failed in the past and contributes to a sloppy feel in the shifter. I don't know if this will fix any problem or cause more. Why does Porsche have that spring on the shift mechanism? Does it protect the Transmission somehow from bad shifts? Does it prevent vibrations from the engine compartment from coming through the shifter? Each only costs about $100. Has anyone tried these in the past? I'll attach some photos from the ads
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