Sunnyside

No , I think you might be getting confused with the throttle adaption/calibration. Get some one with a Durametric to reset them for you. Did you read the second post where I copied from the Porsche Tech Manual. That explains why you get the noise. However it says change the TCU.......But , resetting the values will also fix the problem. Of course, after an extended period of driving slowly again you will eventually get the problem back. I would ask your OPC if your old TCU should have been changed for the the modded TCU before now FOC. If you havent got a Durametric , I would strongly advise you to invest in one.

Is your Car a Tiptronic.......if not stop confusing the issue as Tips dont have light weight flywheels they have Torque Converters. I presume you are H8T WP on 6 speed and take it your car is a manual??? The OP has described a typical tiptronic trait and now has the Porsche remedy for that problem. yup thats me :) and thanks for the clarification lol :thumbup:

Will do! :thumbup:

This is what POSES Tek Info says: however just reset your adaption values. Technical Information © Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG 18.11.2002 tu3052e.doc Printed in Germany Page 1 of 1 911 Turbo 5/02 E 37013 After Sales Tiptronic noises Vehicle Type: 911 Turbo (996) Model Year: As of ’01 (1) Equipment: Tiptronic transmission Concerns: Tiptronic control unit Situation: Driving noises/jerking during acceleration. Grinding/rattling noise when accelerating from a standstill or when driving at low speed in third gear (30 - 50 km/h). Irregular/hard gear changes and jerking during acceleration also occur occasionally. Information: The reason for this is the adaptation of the torque converter lockup clutch in the Tiptronic control unit. If the vehicle is driven in a restrained manner or is frequently driven in stop-and-go traffic, the Tiptronic control module adapts itself to unfavourable values that cause the aforementioned complaints. This problem arises only if the car is driven in a comfortable/economical manner and not when it is driven in a sporty manner. Procedure: Install a new Tiptronic control unit with modified software. Part Nos.: 996.618.180.04 New Tiptronic control unit Introduction: 12th November 2002 99 Z3S 68 0865 RoW 99 53S 68 5844 USA Procedure: 1 Install and code the new Tiptronic control unit, part No. 996.618.180.04, as described in the Technical Manual, Group 3, Chapter 37 30 19. 2 Carry out a test drive, making sure that all upshift and downshift points are reached. Do not switch the engine off after the test drive, but instead let it idle for 10 minutes. The adaptation values will be written into the transmission control unit only after this time has elapsed. Working Time: 37 30 55 06 Removing and installing control unit 130 TU Includes: Removing and installing rear side-panel lining Programming the control unit References: 911 Turbo (996) Technical Manual, Group 3: > Repairs: 37 30 19 - Removing and installing the Tiptronic control unit

Is your Car a Tiptronic.......if not stop confusing the issue as Tips dont have light weight flywheels they have Torque Converters. I presume you are H8T WP on 6 speed and take it your car is a manual??? The OP has described a typical tiptronic trait and now has the Porsche remedy for that problem.

Apparently its a common thing to have and actually says a little bit about your driving style. The TCU adapts to your driving style and if you have been driving the car in a very relaxed manor for an extended period the TCU adapts to that style. The way to stop having that grinding noise is to either have your adaption values reset ( disconnecting the battery does not do this). Or take the car for a very spirited drive for a lengthy period. Don't ask my the nitty gritty info as to exactly why it does it but the TEC info says to reset adaption values!! I have had similar and used my PST2 to reset the values, I do believe last time I checked that Durametrics can do that as well. Apparently its nothing to get excited about. :drive:

Happy New Year everyone and safe... :drive: Fank

Well, since I had the upgrade done its been doing nothing but Snowing, flash rain flooding and ovver 120 mph winds so the car has been on the CTEK charging for the last month and hasnt driven an inch. :cursing: Come the better weather ( notice I didnt say good weather) again :huh: I hope to have her out and do some more :drive: :thumbup:

supprised its not been posted before now but. MERRY CHRISTMAS Merry Christmas to you all from Bonny Scotland. May ye drink a merry dram o the good stuff and be ye merry. from the great man Robert Burns him self: Should auld acquaintance be forgot, And never brought to mind? Should auld acquaintance be forgot, And auld lang syne? For auld lang syne, my dear, For auld lang syne, We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet, For auld lang syne. And surely ye'll be your pint-stowp, And surely I'll be mine! And we'll tak a cup o' kindness yet, For auld lang syne. For auld lang syne, my dear, For auld lang syne, We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet, For auld lang syne. We twa hae run about the braes, And pu'd the gowans fine; But we've wandered mony a weary fit Sin' auld lang syne. For auld lang syne, my dear, For auld lang syne, We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet, For auld lang syne. We twa hae paidled i' the burn, Frae morning sun till dine; But seas between us braid hae roared Sin' auld lang syne. For auld lang syne, my dear, For auld lang syne, We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet, For auld lang syne. And there's a hand, my trusty fiere, And gie's a hand o' thine! And we'll tak a right guid-willie waught For auld lang syne. For auld lang syne, my dear, For auld lang syne, We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet, For auld lang syne. HAPPY NEW YEAR! and AULD LANG SYNE! Take care and be safe Frank __________________ To Finish 1st, First you have to Finish Sunnyside View Public Profile Send a private message to Sunnyside Visit Sunnyside's homepage! Find all posts by Sunnyside Add Sunnyside to Your Contacts

I too am taken aback by this as the fault was only on bank 2. Very suprising.

Have you checked pin 1 & 4 on the sensor plug. 1 iIRC is the 12v supply and 4 is earth. Perhaps you have lost the earth return?? Or the 12 v supply. have you any other alarm module fault codes??

They way I read it, its asking to check the wiring.

which pin are you getting voltage on. It says to check A24 to ground and also A8 to ground. If not 0v then replace sensor. On the cct diagram when you have disconnected plug A from the alarm /cl module and check A8 to ground the alarm siren would appear to still be connected to A8 as well. In other words A8 is connected to A2 on the interior sensor and also pin A2 of the Siren. The siren might be causing the 12 v on line A24. Pull off the plug to the siren and see if the voltage drops to 0v. A24 only goes to A3 on the sensor so any voltage on that with the interior sensor plug disconnected A24 to A3 can only come from a short in the wiring/wiring fault.

No, standard ratios but I do believe the rev limit has been raised. Ken at 9E will have more info, as the box is an MKB modded box. What I do know is the car is geared for 219 mph if we had enough road. I will be fitting 6 pots and bigger brakes and some IC cooling work to see if I can improve on those figures. :cheers:

Hi and welcome. You could do with checking your fuel pressure. It comes to bank 1 injectors first then crosses to bank 2. If your fuel pressure is dropping bank 2 will be the first to show signs.. When did you last have your pump checked, there is a U pipe on the pump that splits. Starts of small reducing pressure on wot but will eventually split fully. This will cause the car to crank over then splutter but not start. Of course its just an idea but is worth checking your fuel pressure/delivery and pump U pipe.

No there not 16g's or even billets. They have been designed for my car to give 24/18g power with K16 spool. They are only available via Nine Excellence and believe it or not are very competitive on price. you will need to contact Ken about them as he paid for all the R&D so has the rights to them . Frank

Thanks JP, I have to thank Ken at Nine Excellence for the hard work. I had a little bit to do with the new Turbos, but Kens package is the tops. It means then you dont have to change your K16's for K24/18'g to get in the 650/700 bhp range. We dont think there has ever been a k16 car in the uK to make 200.77 mph at Brunters before. He already has orders in for the the kit. My car was used for the R&D. :thumbup:

Been busy over the last few weeks. ben to Bruntinghorpe with my 6tt testing my new mods. Soft intake piping fitted, K1639 Turbos, Performance 3 1/2" IC's, Performance boost hoses Tune for 1.5 bar, 60 lb injectors, EBC K&N, 100 Cell Miltek, DV's, MKB Box and TCU PSS10's all round. Been testing and doing plenty of laps and runs: All done on Shell V power 99 ron US 93. No race fuels or additives used. Brunters has a 1.5deg incline so is deemed to be a slow track as well . Looking forward to getting some Pbox times on the level. 0-300kph 26.91 seconds 0-200 mph 34.17 seconds 0-100 6.5 seconds 0-60 3 seconds 60-130 7.00 seconds. All Pbox GPS verified The heart of the kit is the K1639 turbos. They are brand new design made specifically for my car in assocoation with 9E who will supply them with there performance kit. These Turbos flow 39lb air similar to K24 18'g which flow 40 lbs. However they still retain the K16 turbine and have the distinctive no lag feel. They produce far more power than K16/16g's and billet Turbos. Ken at Nine Excellence, 9E, http://www.nineexcellence.com/ is very pleased with the results and conservatively puts the power in the region of 650 bhp. With 0-200 in 34.17 that would be about right. On the day we also had a 996 GT 2 RS ( 620ps) and we beat the 0-300 time for that by quite a bit. :drive:

Sorry for the delay in answering, I have been a bit bust with my 6tt. Had Soft intake piping fitted, K1639 Turbos, Performance 3 1/2" IC's, Tune for 1.5 bar, 60 lb injectors, along with my K&N, 100 Cell Miltek, DV's, MKB Box and TCU & PSS10's all round. Been testing. 0-300kph 26.91 seconds 0-200 mph 34.17 seconds 0-100 6.5 seconds 0-60 3 seconds 60-130 7.00 seconds. All Pbox GPS verified As to your Tip Adaption values , they are found in the G100 Tiptronic module using Durametrics. I have a PST2 which is great, however my Durametric Version 6 has a few problems connecting to the Tip module. It always has for some reason. i have heard of others with the same issue so perhaps its a Durametric problem.

I take it your getting over 12 volts on the dash gauge? say about 13.5 when running after a long period. My diode pack failed and it would charge the car when first started form cold but as it warmed up the voltage would keep falling. Eventually it reached 10v. Car was running on the battery and it would go flat very quickly. I have also had a battery that went defective like WVICARY says. If your getting about 13/13.5 volts after a long drive I would invest in a new battery, better still just get one anyway.

Good news James. If your indy has a PIWIS then he's on the ball, so great job. Yes the DME is the ECU. Even if you experience no further issues, the TCU will have adaption values stored and will also store any slippage of the clutch packs even though the slippage might not be enought to trigger a fault code. Its a good way to see if the box is starting to fail. James at Nine Excellence over here noticed mine was in fact slipping in every gear even changing down gear as well. I think you would still be wise to invest in a Durametric, they do loads of things not just read codes. eg you can run all your fans at different speeds, check our alarm, switch off individual coil packs to find a misfire. etc etc x100.lol

Brilliant result & please for you. :clapping:

That's good news, as i said last post he box should hold about 9 lts of fluid and you should change out 4.5. so it looks like you were low on ATF. Your indy will tell you its also critical to have the correct level, hence the reason why the Tip box should be filled IIRC between 20-40 deg C Anyway, good its running well. Did your indy delete the fault codes stored in the TCU, this is different to the fault codes stored in the DME??? Its very important that he did so if you have any re-ocurance of faults you dont get confused with the last faults stored. Here are the other 2 TCU tip codes. for p701 Sorry there all pasted form a PDF file and I am having a hell of a time getting it right to paste on here. P0701 15 Excessive speed n2 or n3 A check is carried out to ascertain whether the n2 sensor signal or the n3 sensor signal exceed a limit value. The aim of the fault detection is to detect a hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission. The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module Diagnosis conditions • Ignition on • n2 > 7000 rpm or n3 > 7000 rpm Possible fault cause♦ Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears ♦ Excessive speed sensor n3 or outer disk bracket faulty Affected terminals. Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings → End ................................................................................................ 49 Excessive speed engine The CAN engine speed signal is checked to ascertain whether a limit value is exceeded. The aim of the fault detection is to detect a hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission. The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module Diagnosis conditions • Ignition on • Engine speed > maximum switch speed + offset (e.g. max. switch speed = 6000 rpm, offset = 500 rpm) Possible fault cause ♦ Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears Affected terminals Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings → End ........................................................................................ TBC 50 Impermissible transmission ratio The transmission is checked to ascertain whether it shifts down permissible The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module! Diagnosis conditions • Ignition on Possible fault caus ♦ Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears Affected terminals - Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings → End .................................................................................. 51 Transmission slips or gear implausible Checks are carried out to ascertain whether a gear is implausible or the transmission slips. The redundancy transistor is switched off. The setpoint values of the current regulator are set to 0 and all change-over valves are switched off. The control module is then in emergency operation. Minimal cycle is additionally activated. Diagnosis conditions • Ignition on • No active gearshift • No speed n2 fault • Engine speed n2 > 150 rpm • No selector lever fault • No CAN faul • No PSM fault • At least one plausible rear wheel speed • All plausible PSM wheel speeds > 50 rpm • Difference between right and left wheel speed < 100 rpm (rear and front) • Output shaft speed > 180 rpm • Engine speed > 450 rpm Possible fault cause ♦ Leak in hydraulic wiring ♦ Leak in mechanical transmission parts ♦ Oil filter missing Affected terminals Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Note! Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings → End

Hi James, you should normally get about 4.5 lts of oil out on a change. The box hold about 9 ltrs abut only 4.5 ltr are removed. I would also check the wiring connector half way down on the left hand side of the Tip box. Its quite short and can be under some strain. Its also open to the elements . I have known of a plug failing due to corrosion and one other had pulled the plug apart. The Tip P codes form the DME are generated form the TCU and are not comprehensive. You need to have the TCU fault codes read out as well .Here are the TCU fault codes for P701: 0-8 P0701 15 Excessive speed n2 or n3 A check is carried out to ascertain whether the n2 sensor signal or the n3 sensor signal exceed a limit value. The aim of the fault detection is to detect a hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission. The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module Diagnosis conditions • Ignition on • n2 > 7000 rpm or n3 > 7000 rpm Possible fault cause♦ Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears ♦ Excessive speed sensor n3 or outer disk bracket faulty Affected terminals. Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings → End ................................................................................................ 49 Excessive speed engine The CAN engine speed signal is checked to ascertain whether a limit value is exceeded. The aim of the fault detection is to detect a hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission. The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module Diagnosis conditions • Ignition on • Engine speed > maximum switch speed + offset (e.g. max. switch speed = 6000 rpm, offset = 500 rpm) Possible fault cause ♦ Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears Affected terminals Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings → End ........................................................................................ TBC

Stripping down a Tip box is well out of my paygrade (lol) and expertise so I have never seen inside the box, only schematics. Manual boxes , cant see an issue with stripping down but the thought of stripping down an auto Tip's TBH scares the life out of me. apparently MKB see this quite often. Its an issue with me , a keen hands on guy that I cant fully maintain my car .With my other cars ,Cosworths for eg , I could strip down any part of the car and rebuild. OK with it being a Ford that was fairly regular.lol. I suppose I would prefer to fix problems more frequently that are within my scope, than have a car that remains fairly reliable but eventually when something mayor does go wrong I cant do anything. Will be interesting to see what codes are read out. TBH i would hope that its something simple like an actuator solenoid failing, so long as the clutch packs have not been damaged and the oil not fried, it might not be such a "big fix". I was unlucky, I replaced the filter and fluid, which is not cheep, in the hope that was the problem. Alas, mKB found the defective pump. So I had a full MKB power kit mod done with the TCU upgrade as well.