dgcook

Perhaps my experience with car covers can be helpful to someone: With tight quarters in my garage it's a pain (and a bit risky) to routinely garage my 911. Instead I had been covering it nightly with a good quality car cover. This worked well and is pretty easy. However, in June I went out of town for a week and left it covered--thinking that was best. When I returned I was shocked to find my flawless paint finish was now marred in places all over the roof. The speckles of discoloration--quite extensive in places--were impervious to buffing. The body shop people said the clear coat was damaged and the only solution was to repaint the roof. The quote for the job was $2500--just for the roof. It had rained a bit the day before I left (it's Seattle after all) and there was moisture on the car when I covered it. Since it was summer while I was gone, it would seem the cumulative effect of being covered for several days in the hot sun drove the moisture into/under weak spots in the finish. For some this might seem obvious. For me, however, it was a big surprise since I had been covering it for quite a while in all kinds of weather, but usually just overnight, with no problems. There was no way I intended to leave it that way. But still I procrastinated--during which I tended to avert my gaze from the roof since it irritated me so much. Above all else I stopped using the car cover through the rest of the summer. It happened so gradually I didn't notice for a while, but by the time September rolled around the "ruined" clearcoat lesions were 98% gone. At this point the remaining speckles are so minor I have a hard time finding them even knowing where to look. My theory is that being exposed to the sun and dry weather slowly drove the moisture back out of the finish and resolved the blemishes. Even though I'm still not entirely sure how this worked out, it is very clear that under some circumstances a Porsche can heal itself. This raises some interesting questions about the best way to protect a car from the elements (which apparently can be both friend and foe) when garaging is not a reasonable option. I would further add that I've read more stories on this forum by people who have had their Porsches damaged by rubbish in their garages than by getting damaged in driveways. I'd be curious to hear from others on this topic. Dave Cook

Interesting. My '99 C2 does exactly the same thing. It's approximately 3 mph over while reading 65 mph. I've puzzled over the same thing. It seems very odd since it is fitted with factory 18s. Dave

W: I saw the aerial mod DIY you referred to. It's interesting, but there were a couple of places where things seemed a bit unclear to me. Please report back on how that goes and any additional information that may be helpful to others who might try the same thing. thanks Dave

Waliboy: Are there any indications that the other switches may also be faulty? Since they are "momentary on" this means if you place a volt meter at either pole, activating the switch should send the voltage drop across the switch to zero--an indication the switch works. The info you provide suggests the switch probably does work, but this is still a good way to insure. Short of that I am wondering if there is a way to obtain a circuit diagram to attempt proper diagnostics ? Dave

It sounds like I had some of the same thoughts and concerns you bring up. In the end I came up with a very different solution than I planned in the beginning. Sorry this post is long, but you may be interested in how I did this and my reasoning. What I wanted: Sat Nav, satellite radio, and hands-free Bluetooth connectivity--all without a rubbish looking aftermarket solution. The Double Din Pioneer units you mention looked like viable options. However, upon further investigation I could see some potential problems down the road, which included the issues you raise. The Problems: (1) I was a bit uncomfortable about giving $2,500 to some run-of-the-mill shops with uncertain skills so they could thrash about under my dash. The high end shops with clear experience doing this to Porsches were even more expensive. (2) It appeared enough hacking was required it would be difficult to go back to OEM---something that does matter to many people. Moreover, the installation options suggested by several experts placed the re-located controls in less optimal positions. (3) To me the biggest issue is that I have come to believe even the high end Pioneer systems may soon become antiquated and need to be replaced with something very different---or perhaps worse, just wind up cluttering the dash like a 21st century version of the old 8-track players from the '70s. Specifically, I'm thinking about the emergence of Google Navigation for cell phones, Pandora, and voice command apps. My Solution: The key weakness of using a cell phone for such applications is rapid battery drain and I did not want to use an ugly cigarette lighter mounted phone charger with its unsightly wires always dangling over the controls. To get around this, it was easy to pull the radio and place clamp-on splice jumpers on the switched power leads without cutting any wires or altering any cable harnesses. With the functioning radio back in the dash I fed the DC voltage source to a small phone charger that I secured under the dash. A very simple adaptation of a $10 snap-in belt clamp for my phone allowed me to mount the phone in a convenient and visually pleasing location on the dash. Even though it mounts very securely I can pull the mount on or off the dash without any dash modifications and it doesn't require any of those awkward and ugly aftermarket solutions (suction cups, clips, clamps, widgets that plug into the cigarette lighter, glue, magnets, or rubbish that precariously clips objects on the vents). The coiled power line to the phone is very unobtrusive when in use and retracts out of sight when not in use. For short trips I usually don't plug it in. In order to gain wireless access to the audio system I use a Motorola T505 bluetooth adapter. It works very well, is quite small, and mounts wirelessly on the the sunvisor. When sitting behind the wheel one doesn't really even notice it. With an overnight charge I find it works for many weeks. The result: When I get in the car I snap my Android phone in the bracket and touch a button to activate the Bluetooth adapter. The phone automatically handles the satellite navigation and speaks through the car audio system. I used to pay for X-M satellite radio because I like the variety and hate commercial-laden radio. On this basis Pandora is superior and free (or nearly so). If a call comes in while Pandora is running, it will pause until the call is done. At least with my phone, the sound quality is quite good. Similarly, when Google Navigation starts to speak, Pandora automatically pauses and then resumes when the navigator is done speaking. An inexpensive voice-confirming Android app allows me to voice dial for outgoing calls. Google is frequently sending out automatic cost-free upgrades for the navigation app. Moreover, since one is linked to the web, information is always automatically updated and a street-view of your destination pops up as you approach. The radio and CD player still work with a touch of a button. In the end for less than $100 it was possible to configure a clean system that has few drawbacks and in several ways is superior to a >$2,500 "Pioneer solution". Perhaps most important to me is that the dash remains uncluttered and completely OEM. The capabilities of cell phones to do the work of these big, expensive in-dash Nav/audio/bluetooth systems changes by the month. No car maker or aftermarket audio system manufacturer can keep up with this pace. In a couple of months I will get a new phone that will be much faster and have many more voice options. You should be able to do the same thing with any other standard smart phone. When I do upgrade, all I'll have to do is get a new belt clip for the phone and I'll be set--and I won't have deal with any dinosaurs in the dash. Hope this is helpful. If you need more details please let me know. Dave

Waliboy: The article doesn't mention replacement of the battery holder. Their theme seemed to be that the micro switches are the main culprit behind fob failure and hence focus on that. I have ordered some switches to try and fix one of my own poorly working fobs. In the process tinkering with mine I'll give your question more thought. Dave

Waliboy: The article lists the source for the momentary switch as: www.digikey.com, phone # (800-344-4539). The three switches are normally off (part # CKN9193CT-ND). The web link is: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=CKN9193CT-ND&x=27&y=19 If you need further information let me know. Good luck. Dave

Dave: There is an interesting article in the June 2010 issue of Excellence Magazine entitled: "Fob 4 Less: Fixing a modern Porsche key for less than $3 bucks". The article describes rescuing a dysfunctional key by replacing a couple of small, inexpensive momentary switches. Looks relatively easy to do and since the electronic functions of your key are already messed up you don't have much to lose. I have one non-functional fob, but since the other is working I haven't tried this idea yet. I did call the dealer about a replacment. They offered to solve the problem for $375. If you go the diy route please let folks know how it works out. Good luck. Dave

Love the sound of your idea about the C4. Sounds way better than those dismal commutes on the Metro North. When I was there the only redeeming quality of taking the train was the "bar-car" they plugged in for the ride out of the city. Basically I think the well-placed value most folks put on their Porsches can sometimes detract from enjoying them when we lock them up like Rapunzel to protect them from the real world. Best of luck with the commute. Dave

The ideas above sound good if you want to let the car sit much of the time. An alternative philosophy is--Why hibernate? The best reason for owning a Porsche is to drive it. Winter roads can be tough some of the time (I lived most of my adult life in the Northeast and know what you mean). But but sitting in the garage your 911 is just getting older and so are you. I have the same model as you and am finding it handles even very poor road conditions pretty well. Someone on this forum commented that driving a Porsche in the winter is fine if you view it merely as a "driving appliance". Maybe so---but what a splendid appliance it is. Will this shorten the overall lifespan of the car? Some. But for me the marginal consumption is more than offset by the gains. I look forward to every driving opportunity, rain or shine. Otherwise long winters really would get bleak. Dave

As per your question: My 911 is RWD. Hence the bit of extra surprise that it handled those road conditions reasonably well. Still I don't think it's up for any kind of snow rally action. I'm just happy to keep it between the lines (or where they would be if one could see them). Dave

MY Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus tires got their first real foul-weather test this week. For Seattle, extreme weather with temps in the 'teens, drifting snow, and a lame flat-footed response by the city left the roads looking more like they had been Zambonied rather than plowed. I still experienced some sliding, a bit of drifting, and some fear (especially on the hills common around here). But even under these conditions the 911 remained under control and felt reasonably planted. So far good marks for the Pilot Sport A/S tires. Still I stayed home today in hopes road crews can get their act together. Dave

Hi all: I plan to drive my 911 through the winter months. For the first time this year, Seattle will be using (presumably on rare occasions) salt on the roads. Apart from not driving, what is the best way to limit or prevent the harmful effects of grim and salt deposits? Should I power wash the under the car periodically? thanks. Dave

Jtraol: In anticipation of the coming rain and occasional snow of Seattle I've fitted my Carrera with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus tires. After a fair amount of research I found these tires were always at the top of nearly everyone's list. I think all-season tires are a good idea anywhere there are reasonable differences between seasons, and from a consensus of the sources I checked, it would seem hard to go wrong with them. So far so good in some very heavy rain. In addition to possessing tread designs that are better at dealing with water & snow compared to summer tires, a key virtue of A/S tires is a rubber composition that is better suited for grip at lower temperatures. As the weather turns colder I'll know more how this works out for me. In the meantime the new tires are performing well and I feel better being prepared, rather than waiting for something to happen that would make for big regrets. By the way, if interested I can tell you how I was able to bring the cost down several hundred dollars by getting several specific national suppliers to compete. Dave

Brit Dave: Exactly the same thing happened to me. I made the repair with a dual-reagent bonding compound called "Permatex Cold Weld" that I found in a retail auto parts store. I lightly sanded the back of the emblem and the recessed portion of the wheel center using 200 grit sand paper to both clean the surfaces and provide some added surface irregularities for the glue to adhere to, wiped off the excess, and let it sit overnight. It has held fine. Hope this helps. Dave C.