JeeCS4

Well, I just received 'em today :) Part #s are: 996 111 981 03 (Left) 996 111 982 03 (Right)

I did just that and it doesn't beep. And I hear ya on the fault warning. That's why I just plugged it back in and decided to live with the way the factory originally intended the system to be.

First, if you just want to know how to get the beep; read the last sentence :) OK, I had some time last night to goof around and I decided to investigate the two wires. Basically, the harness consists of one wire: Orange/Brown and one wire: Brown. With a flat microscrewdriver, it is possible to disassemble the connector plug. it is numbered from 1 to 3 for the pin positions. Pin 1 is where the Orange/Brown wire is inserted. Pin 3 is where the Brown wire is inserted. Just at the rear of the connector, there's a plastic cap. with the screwdriver, you can pop this cap off. Be careful not the lose this plastic cap. it looks like it is hinged but it's not. place a towel down to catch it should it fall. Once you remove the cap, you will expose the pins alittle more. with the same screwdriver, you can push the barb that holds the pin in and release them out of the connector. it's a two stage process for the barb. you do the leading edge first and pull. then the wire will slide back a couple millimeters. then you push the barb down again where the new exposed area from the cap removal was. This will allow you to completely remove the pin. I also removed the microswitch that will trigger the alarm beep should the lid be left open. There's really not much to take apart in the microswitch but it did allow me to test further w/o having to have the whole rear console sitting in my lap. The microswitch is numbered equally the same in the female pin portion of its connector: from 1 to 3. Here's what I found: I left the brown wire in its original position (#3) and moved the Orange/Brown wire from Pin 1 to 2. Depressing the microswitch (to imitate the lid being closed), I hit the lock button on the key. No beep :( Then, releasing the microswitch, I armed the vehicle again. No beep :( So what does this tell me? Pin #2 of the microswitch is not assigned to any function. So, it's either Pin #1 or Pin #3. Well, just to be thorough, I reversed the pin connections (ie. Brown to Pin #1; Orange/Brown to Pin #3) and again tried the system. with the microswitch depressed, there's no beep. with it released, there's a beep. So, the system behaves exactly the same as the factory irrespective of the pins being reversed. Now that we understand that pin relocation therapy doesn't work, what happens if you jump the two pins together? Jump the two wires together and the alarm beeps. Long story short: If you want to have the alarm beep, jump Pin #1 and Pin #3 together on the wire harness that leads to the lid microswitch. As for me, i put everything back and went to bed. I was disappointed b/c many microswitches do have three pins allowing you to choose SWITCHED or UNSWITCHED. Obviously, this isn't the case for this little lid switch. And one more thing, if you don't want to jump the wires, you could always just cut or bend the metal arm that triggers the microswitch. Bend it down far enough that when you close the lid, the microswitch doesn't get triggered. A new microswitch (Part #: 996 613 205 00) costs about $20.

I just installed the Porsche short shifter last night. There is a harness (two wires) that leads to the rear console compartment lid switch. if you leave this wire unplugged, I believe that the alarm system will always "think" that the glove box is left open. that would trigger the beep from the alarm. This would obviously allow you to be able to keep the compartment lid closed at all times. of course, you'd have to remove the rear console to get to the harness but it's worth a shot if you intend on ever removing the rear console for the short shift install. it's worth a shot to try it out. wish i had tried it out b/c i particularly don't like that fact that there's no audible beep either and don't like having to remember to leave the compartment open everytime i step out of the car. all of this really depends on how the lid switch works. i'm assuming that when the lid is open, the switch opens and the current gets broken and when the lid is closed, the switch closes and completes the circuit.

Anyone have the part number for the Sport Exhaust Tips for a 996 C4S? Thanks!

Correct me if I am wrong but droping the engine you have to do to get to the tuning pipe (infront of the throttlebody) and the rubber sleeves. I hope that my left sleeve has no connector so i can use the PSE connector /Magnus Yup, if the sleaves that are attached to the intake distributor both have nipples on them, you will have to resort to getting access to the sleeves from the tuning pipe. Apparently, the latter isn't such an easy task since there's no working room and hence requires the engine to be dropped. A solution to this is to merely bypass the whole step and use one of the existing nipples that were already present on one of the original "nippled" sleeves. You can "T" off and go from there as per the instructions for the PSE vacuum hookup. Orient Express has done this. Here's a link to how he has done it. http://www.funcarsonline.com/ubbthreads/sh...0/page/0#108035 Starting from the very first picture of the PSE box, count down to the seventh and eighth pictures. You will see what he has done. With this method, you can skip the whole intake distributor removal process. Kudos to Orient Express! I don't know why Porsche would try to designate a sole vacuum source strictly for the PSE. Perhaps they believe that the PSE requires more vacuuum. However, given that the PSE does have a tank reservior and that it does have it's own check valve, I don't quite readily see the need for it to have its own source - it won't be utilizing the vacuum unless you hit the switch to turn it off (QUIET). Remember that the valves themselves on the mufflers are always in the default "LOUD" position, hence, no vacuum used. Hope this helps!

Thanks Loren. I had heard that the PSE for the C4S were different b/c they required a longer pipe for the tips to fit. If that's not the case, then it must be the tips that have different part numbers for the C4S vs. the others?

I've heard that the PSE for the C4S's were different altogether. If true then does anyone know the correct part number for the C4S? If false then, i'm assuming that any of the larger diameter bypass type PSEs would fit, no?

Where in NJ are you? I've been contemplating the PSE as well. Would be great if i can hear it as well.

Well, the real question is that there appears to be two types of gauge faces on the market. One type is the stick on type. Regardless of this bushing, the stick ons have large enough openings to fit around the buttons. I have these in hand so I know they will work with the buttons. OTOH, there is a direct replacement for the stock ones. Same type material and not a stick on. Therefore, it seems as though you will need to use the bushings b/c that is the only way these will stay mounted (unless you use double sided tape and I prefer to do a clean job). I don't have these particualr gauge faces in hand but that's what I was told. Maybe a speedo shop can help. Perhaps they sell these bushings so that we can just break them off.

OK, I will need to use someone else's DIY instructions. Thanks to this person for giving such a great DIY. if you see the picture in the link, I am referring to the black plastic button (red and blue arrows): http://www.lotususa.com/Alex/996ColorGuage...ges/ppage12.htm I would really like to remove this piece. Hope this helps. BTW, car is an 02 996 C4S.

Hello Folks. I just got some gauge faces and I got as far as removing the cluster, disassembling it and now i'm left with just the bare faces with the needles on them. I managed to remove one needle. However, it looks as though the faces are easy to just unclip at their edges but there is a black plastic center piece that holds the entire face onto the main body. looking at this piece makes me believe that it can be compressed underneath and just lifted out but after trying, it doesn't seem all that easy. Has anyone figured out what to do with this plastic piece? TIA!