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Everything posted by vividracing
vividracing replied to riskman24's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)I checked all fuses in the left and right panel. But will check again. The fuse on the back of which unit? From what I have read here, this is a fiberoptic issue - http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/pors...-dont-work.html
vividracing replied to riskman24's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)I have the same issue. 2005 Cayenne S. Radio does not even turn on now.
congrats! what was the final price? Got it for $29K.
Bought it! Sold my 04 for $19K
I have a 2004 Cayenne S with 92000 miles. I am selling it to get a lower mileage one. I had all the major issues with the 04 and replaced them all. Is the 05 much better? http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u...;standard=false
Wife says she thinks she has a right rear flat tire. When ever she accelerates the car sounds like the wheel is square or running over rumble strips. She has the wheel inspected and nothing. So I bring it down to the old Vivid Racing shop and put it on the lift. Probe around, smell the air, and grab the drive shaft. BAMMO. The center carrier bearing on the driveshaft has ripped apart from its rubber housing. I then hit google and do some research. Find some threads here, on Renntech.org, and basically see that another flaw of the 03 and 04 Cayenne is this drive shaft. Bad thing is there is no rebuild kit, you have to buy the whole **** drive shaft for $700! So peoples with the 04, check your drive shaft, get an extended warranty, and this is the problem! Here are some pics. The lovely model The old drive shaft New Drive Shaft about to be installed My car has 88,000 miles and I bought it used with 50K. So far it has been good except the leaking coolant pipes on top of the engine and a torque converter seal. All has been fixed and still running well. I think at 100K I will replace it for a CTT.
Keep the Pilot Cups for track only. PS2 are great for street and aggressive driving, but yes soft. If you want a harder tire that lasts longer, go with the Pirelli or Conti. If you want to drove in price point, check out the Nitto Invo or the Yokohama Advan Sport. All these are available in the 305/30/19 needed in the rear. Not sure what the price point is of the PSC's, but dedicated track rims are an investment while using expensive tires on the street is an expense, ie. throwing money out the window. I am sure you can find a set of used rims that would make perfect track wheels for a lot less than going thru a set of PSC's every 5 months. Just my 2 cents. JP
I have done a set of 997GT2 wheels on a 997TT. The problem is the 997GT2 is RWD, so the tire sizes front and rear dont have to be like the 997TT that would affect the center diff. The 997TT MUST use a 235/35/19 and 305/30/39 where the GT2 uses a 325/30/19 and a 235 up front I believe. These tires would cause premature wear to the cars diff. Don't the turbos have 8.5 x 19 and 11.5 x 19s on? I would double check to ensure fitment. They will work fine... and look great too!!
We have done the RWD conversion in a 996TT. I think as I have seen others dyno the car this way, but not sure if you the PSM system will allow you to drive on it like this. All you have to do is remove the center driveshaft with diff and disconnect the halfshafts. Having driven a RWD 996TT, they are a blast and a handful!
So you want to upgrade the look of your 996 Turbo. One of the best ways to do that is by adding a GT2 front bumper. There are many options from the real deal to the replica one. So we have put together some information on this upgrade including how to install the bumper and why this upgrade is beneficial. Installation: Tools - Flat Head to pop out clips, Phillips Head, Torx Set, and a buddy. Step 1 - The first thing you need to do is to remove the inner fender liner that connects to the bumper. There are a couple of clips to pop out and then a couple on the underside of the bumper. Once these are removed the fender liner will slide out. Step 2 - Once the fender liners are removed, undo the clips and torx bolts from the underside of the bumper. Step 3 - Now you will want to remove the side markers. They come out really easy. Grap ahold of them from the end and simply pull forward and out. You will need to unclip the wiring harness. Behind the light is a Phillips Head screw to remove. Do this on either side of the bumper. Step 4 - Next you need to remove the trunk rubber seal and hood latch trim panel to access some of the final clips and bolts. The rubber seal lifts up as pictured. To remove the hood latch trim, there is 2 Flat Head clips to turn and pop out. Once you remove the trim you can see the remaining hardware to remove that will allow the bumper to slide out. Step 5 - Now pull gently from each side and the middle and it will slide off. If you feel anything catching, make sure you look to ensure you removed all the necessary clips. Comparison - The GT2 bumper actually has alittle more ground clearance then the factory 996TT aero kit lip spoiler. The bumper has a flatter nose and slight change in ducting. Discussion on this below. Step 6 - You always want to test fit your parts before painting to ensure they fit. The bumper will slide into place same as you removed the old one. When you run the GT2 front bumper, you will need the OEM hood grill which goes between the hood and the bumper. Porsche has these in standard ABS plastic and a carbon fiber version. Our ABS plastic one is not pictured here. The part number you need is 996.575.326.30. Also included on this replica bumper is the OEM lower lip spoiler which is urethane. The actual bumper its self is high quality fiberglass. Discussion below. You can view all the installation pictures of this GT2 Bumper here - http://www.vividracing.com/forums/gallery/showimage.php?i=9164&c=301 Once the bumper is painted you will want to follow the instructions in reverse to refit. Make sure you also predrill the toe hook hole for your factory cap to fit in place. We always recommend doing a 3M clear bra to protect your bumper from paint chips. With any new bumper, before you clear bra, make sure you wait the adequate time to make sure the paint has cured. You will want to discuss this with your bodyshop. Now why do you want to run the GT2 bumper over the stock 996TT one? First and foremost, is styling preference. When Porsche released the 996 GT2 model, the front bumper was a more aggressive design to aerodynamically match it to the rear wing. The GT2 bumper does have larger ducting to keep the cooling efficiency at a maximum. With the hood grill, air will pass through the front ducting and instead of turbulently getting caught in the bumper, it moves right out through the hood grill. The radiator cooling air system is derived from the race-winning 911 GT1 and 911 GT3 RS. In addition to its enhanced appearance in aerodynamic improvements, the replica GT2 bumper is lighter then the original ABS plastic piece. Many people are concerned at the thought of fiberglass. This is not as flexible as a urethane bumper, however the strength of the fiberglass is more durable upon impact and rather easy to repair compared to urethane. Proving this true, on the Bullrun 2007 Rally, I took a piece of tire tread to my fiberglass bumper of the same manufacturer at 110MPH which it left a crack that was repaired easily later. Here is a picture of that car with 3000 miles applied to it in 6 days. The final result of the GT2 bumper is definitely upgraded styling. Here is a black car we recently did including the clear bra. Here is the blue car finished up. I think it looks AWESOME!
I just thought I would share this info and pictures of a proper corner balance alignment done on a Porsche 996TT. This car was done with the JIC Cross coilovers. Though the KW V3 or Bilstein PSS10 would be equivalent. You can get this amount of adjustment with the stock control arms, toe links, camber slots. Any questions, just ask :) More pics here - http://www.vividracing.com/forums/gallery/browseimages.php?c=273
We just received our new 2 piece floating rotors for the factory Porsche 6 piston brakes that fit our 997 Turbo. There are many reasons why to upgrade to these rotors. Some influencing factors are the rotational weight savings of 3lbs per corner, the dissipation of heat under hard braking, and the floating design to give you improved braking and pad wear. Tools Needed Torque Wrench Socket Wrench 10mm Allen Socket Flat Head Screwdriver Philips Head Screwdriver Strap to Hold Caliper Step 1 - First you want to find a flat spot to jack up the first side of the car you plan on doing. Loosen the lug bolts slightly. Once you lift it to the needed height, make sure to put a jack stand underneath for safety. Remove the lug bolts and pull off the wheel. Step 2 - Turn the steering wheel to allow you to access the bolts with the 10mm allen socket to remove the caliper. Once the bolts are removed, use the flat head screwdrive to seperate the pads from the rotor and slide the caliper off. Secure the caliper in place with a strap or bungee cord by the coilover. Step 3 - Next take the philips head screwdriver and remove the screws that hold the rotor to the wheel hub. Pull off the old rotor. Grab the new Brembo rotor which is specific to the left and right. There is no need to clean them. Step 4 - Put the new Brembo rotor in place and fasten the philips head screws. Grab the caliper and then slide it over the rotor and place the 10mm allen bolts back in place. Use your Torque Wrench and tighten them down to 55lbs each. Step 5 - Check to make sure your hardware is tight and the rotor spins without any obstructions. Make sure your brakeline is not pinched. Reinstall your wheel on the car. Once you lower the car, torque your wheel bolts to about 90lbs. Step 6 - Bed in your new rotors by doing 5 hard braking stops from 60-5mph. You should be activating the ABS. Once they are bed in, go enjoy your new stopping performance!
I just got a 2004 Cayenne S. The ! General Warning Light came on. I have no idea why? Any thoughts? Thanks Dan