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Everything posted by SteveMeckman

  1. Will do, many thanks. I already have a new coolant tank, because I originally thought that was the culprit. While there was still a lot of dampness on the back of the engine, the back and bottom of the coolant tank was completely dry, as was the area directly below it. Still, since I have the part and it's an older car, it won't hurt to replace it. I really appreciate your detailed response.
  2. Thanks. I have a lot of miles on the car and I don't know if the AOS has ever been replaced, so it's probably worth my while if I'm going through all this trouble just to replace it, and some hoses while I'm at it as well. Are there any other obvious failure points in the coolant plumbing system back there, or is the AOS most likely the culprit? Based on where it sounds like it is placed (rear of the engine, on the driver's side), that's where my leak is coming from.
  3. Sorry, the coolant leak is running down the rear of the engine (i.e., the side closest to the front of the car) close to the drivers side. I can see the coolant running down when I'm under the car, I just can't figure out how to access the source. So remove the intake manifold, you say? Other than the AOS, how many connectors are way back there? Can I access them all if I remove the intake manifold, or are there some hose connectors that are completely out of reach? I should probably take a look at the AOS, at least. Oofah, this looks like fun: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/tutorials/article/238-air-oil-separator-replacement-aos/ That should fill up a weekend pretty well.
  4. I am trying to locate a coolant leak on my '99 996. It is leaking pretty significantly near the rear of the engine (by the timing chain cover, closest to the rear seats), somewhere up here: I have ruled out the expansion tank; I disconnected a few pipes and was able to run my hand all along the back of it and it came back bone dry. Meanwhile I can see rivulets of coolant running down the rear of the engine. I put the car up on jackstands, but visibility up there is extremely limited. I unfortunately do not have access to a lift. I was wondering if there was any way to diagnose/resolve the issue without having to drop the engine. I appreciate any insight into this. Also, I noticed several coolant hoses that disappear into oblivion back there. Where do these hoses connect to on the other side, and is there a way to check these connections?
  5. What do I do with that hose when I drop the engine? Replace it, I suppose. If it runs the length of the car, on top of the engine, I am assuming that the engine will need to be dropped a little to provide the clearance to replace it. The elbow seems fine, the crack is right behind the intake inlet. I am not worried about popping the hose out of that elbow, my dilemma is trying to get to the other end of the hose. Sounds like more work than I am willing to do right now; I only have jackstands. Picking up some epoxy this evening. Hopefully that'll take care of things.
  6. Oh goody. Figures I would have a leak in the impossible-to-replace hose. I'm still new to this car; I'm not yet ready to drop the engine :) . Epoxy is it! I really appreciate your time and assistance with this. This has helped tremendously!
  7. Wow! Many thanks! I cleaned out the IACV and it is running a lot better (and starting it in a high 30 degree temperature was a significant improvement) but like you said it still does not feel like 100%. Once it is fully warmed up things get better, but this is the first Porsche I have ever sat in so it could very well be that the problem was always there and I just had no idea. I really appreciate your assistance. Now to find what part number that hose is. How far back does it go? It looks like it disappears into oblivion; hopefully the far endpoint is still reasonably accessible... I have already replaced the MAF. I have no idea if the old one was the original one and I have 115k miles on this thing, so I figured it wouldn't hurt. Happy New Year!
  8. Thanks. I'll check it out later on this evening. Hopefully it's something a little throttle body cleaner can fix.
  9. Thanks. I ran the codes, it didn't indicate that the fuel mixture was off. Also, I forgot to indicate, but as the engine warms up, the idle returns to normal. It only runs rough when it's started from cold, with an ambient temperature of 40 degrees fahrenheit or below. When it's 60 outside or the engine is already warm, it starts up fine and the idle appears normal.
  10. Would the idle improve (get less rough) as the engine warms up if it was the ICV? That was further down on my checklist. I'm also curious what the vacuum hose is that I pointed out though, as I'm going to have to replace that as well.
  11. Hi, I am relatively new to the Porsche world. I bought a '99 996 about 2 years ago, and it has been running like a charm until recently. Earlier this year I moved from FL to NC, where winter exists. Around the time the temperature started getting near 40 degrees (which rarely happened in Florida), the engine starting exhibiting a very rough idle when starting cold. I got a code for a bad o2 sensor, but fixing that didn't seem to resolve the problem. No other codes, so I started going through a checklist of things to replace: MAF, coil packs, spark plugs. I cleaned out the throttle body. Nothing seemed to help the situation. Right before Christmas, my alternator died. I got a new one on Friday, and put it in today. In doing so, I noticed that there was a small crack in this hose: What is this hose and could it be responsible for rough cold idles? Also, what does it connect to and how hard is it to replace it?
  12. Refilling the hydraulic system is not going to fix the problem all the way. It'll make it work again for a week or two. The fluid level is low because you have a leak somewhere, which will continue leaking under pressure. Most likely a seal in the cylinder is worn; this is a common problem amongst our cars after they reach a certain age. I got my car a little over a year ago, and almost immediately I had the same problem. Same scenario, the reservoir was almost empty and the roof was having a hard time moving despite the sounds of motors whirring. I found a guy local to my area (Sarasota, FL) who rebuilds cylinders, and was able to get my car fixed very inexpensively. I use my roof extensively and these things have held up really well so far; there have been no leaks and no change in performance. Removing and reinstalling the cylinders is not a difficult DIY project, and you should be able to send him your old ones to get rebuilt. PM me for more info.
  13. If anyone is interested, PM me and I can get you in touch with the guy who rebuilt my cylinder.
  14. Hi Dave, I had a guy here in Sarasota make them for me. I think the dealer wanted $90 a piece, for what ends up being a $0.25 part. I think I was quoted $600 for the cylinder, LOL. I understand that as Porsche owners, we are expected to pay a premium for parts, but that is ridiculous. My guy now has the tooling for the seals, so he should be able to crank out a bunch more. Let me talk to him and get back with you on his pricing. By the way, when I say that I managed to rebuild the cylinders, I meant that my much more capable friend was able to do it. The problem with the cylinder is that the mount is part of the arm, so he had to saw it off to open the cylinder. He explained how he fused it back together but I can't remember the details so I'll have to ask him again.
  15. Thanks a bunch. I figure I need to pick up a Durametric tool anyway; it pretty much seems like a must-have when buying a used car.
  16. Thanks Loren. I am in Sarasota, Florida. Unfortunately that does not look like it's anywhere near you.
  17. I got my 1999 C2 cabriolet about a month ago. A week after I got it, the roof stopped working. It would go down just a little, then stop. I popped the back open and took a look at the moving parts, and sure enough one of the hydraulic cylinders was leaking. It looks like the guy who I bought it from had used some kind of epoxy to jerry-rig a fix that would last long enough for him to sell the car. Anyway I managed to rebuild the cylinder, but I had the parts out of the back of the car for a couple of weeks, and meanwhile I was raising and lowering the roof semi-manually (using the mechanism to open the tonneau cover and unlatch the roof, then easing it down manually into the back, then using the mechanism again to lower the tonneau cover back down). This seemed to work the first couple of times, then after that the roof would not latch back on after I raised the roof, so I kept it down and just put the hardtop on the car (I did get an excellent deal, and the seller had included the hardtop). After re-installing the rebuilt cylinders, the roof raised back up again without any problems. When I try to lower it, however, it stops for about two seconds halfway down, then resumes going opening. Then once the roof is fully down, the tonneau cover won't come down and the little side flaps (not sure what the official name is for those things) won't come up. From this position, when I close the roof, the tonneau cover starts moving down immediately, just as the roof is coming up, and they rub together as they go past each other. I have searched up and down the internet and this forum for a solution, but unfortunately I have not found anything. I figure it's some kind of small computer controlling the choreography of all the different components involved it putting the roof up and down, and a series of microswitches that tell it when a particular component has moved to one of its endpoints. Is it possible that this computer got confused by the missing hydraulic cylinder combined with my manually opening and closing the roof, and just needs to somehow be resequenced? Or is it common that the microswitches or sensors that determine where the roof components are go bad and need to be replaced?? I would appreciate any insight into this issue.
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