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I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me. When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home. Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant. This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running. Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again Sent from my iPhone

Recently had my air oil seperator replaced. At start ran a little rough now runs super rough and wants to stall. Changed 2 pre cat o2 sensors and mass air flow sensor. These are the current codes, 0112, 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 1316, 0102, 0130. Prior the car ran perfect and I cant believe I have all those cylinders misfiring because of plugs or coils. Please help

Unfortunately, I am back with another problem or problems........ A couple of days ago a check engine light popped up on my 997.2s and because it is my daily driver, I was not able to immediately diagnose the issue. I went ahead and ordered a "Carsoft POR II" scanner off amazon as i thought it would help my understanding in what the problem was. (Getting to the point.....) Today while I was driving home from class, the car was running very rough. I decided to pull over and give the scanner a go... DME CODES; P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE P0153 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT BANK 2 DYNAMISM P2099 A/F RATIO CORRECT. BEH. CAT. BANK 2 ABOVE RICH CONTROL UNIT P2198 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT. BANK 2 TOO RICH SIGNAL P0174 BANK 2 TOO LEAN P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN P2196 02 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK BANK 1 SENSOR 1 Being the person I am, I went ahead and cleared the codes dreaming my problems would magically go away. ? About 10 minutes into my commute the codes again popped up but this time, there was something a bit different....... THE NEW CODES INCLUDED; P0174 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 2 P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1 P0306 MISFIRE CYLINDER 6 P0305 MISFIRE CYLINDER 5 P0304 MISFIRE CYLINDER 4 P0300 MISFIRE - TOTAL ERROR P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE About 2 months ago I installed a new O2 sensor bank 1 sensor. While at it, I had a new AOS installed as well (OEM parts). There are some theories I have in mind but as for now, I am truly stumped on this issue. Does anyone have any experience with this madness?! Thanks for reading! ? This morning I started my car again and a puff of white smoke shot out of the tail pipes. The smoke did clear up really quick. MORE NEW CODES; P2A04 O2 SENSOR CIRCUT RANGE/ PERFORMANCE BANK 2 SENSOR 2 P2099 POST CATALYST FUEL TRIM SYSTEM TOO RICH BANK 2 P0153 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE BANK 2 SENSOR 1 P2198 O2 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK RICH BANK 2 SENSOR 1 P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1

1999, 996, 117k miles Due to leaking I recently changed my coolant reservoir tank, which involved disconnecting and re connecting 2 fuel lines.. Upon restarting the car I had a rough idle and CEL. I purchased a $100b code reader, read a bunch of stuff online and decided to clean the MAF sensor, change the air filter, spark plugs, plug tubes and coils. upon today's startup I get an erratic/rough/low rpm idle, flashing CEL and the following codes: P0102 mass air flow circuit low P1319 misfire emission related P1318 misfire cylinder 6 emission related P1315 misfire cylinder 3 emission related P1313 misfire cylinder 1 emission related Somehow I went from a leaky tank to some bad stuff based on a do-it-myself moment. I wonder if the coil packs might not be perfectly seated? I'm thinking a new mass air flow sensor and all four O2 sensors need replacing?? Please advise. Hugo Kohl

Hello all, This is a continuing repair to what started as a camshaft deviation out of spec leading to the replacement of the chain tensioner pads / brake pads / chain ramps on my 2000 911 - 996 5-Chain engine. Seen here: That odyssey has since been resolved but I now have a new issue. Quick background: Removed camshafts, readjusted the camshaft chain timing "marker" positions, replaced tensioner pads, reassembled everything per factory specs. On first start up got very rough idle and bad misfires. At first I thought it may have been my timing was off but went back and visually inspected all and all looked correct (visually). Upon further inspection realized parts guy had given me Bosch 7403 plugs instead of Bosch 7413 (2000 Porsche 911). Current issue: Switched out and installed the correct spark plugs and no more continuous misfires / backfires. Did the initial reset (wait 1 min with ignition on / turn ignition off / wait 10 sec) On the first start up it did misfired / back fired once but I assumed that was left over fuel. Car now runs but very rough and threw 2 codes: - P0300 : Porsche Fault code 62 - Misfire damaging cat. converter - P0301 : Porsche fault code Cylinder 1 misfire damaging to cat. converter Also, took these readings: Actual angle for camshaft bank 1: -12.53 Actual angle for camshaft bank 2: 3.05 On positive note the main reason for doing all this work was the original problem / issue of tensioner / brake pad wear which was giving me a -10 / -2.92 reading is now: Camshaft position 1 deviation: 0.00 Camshaft position 2 deviation: 0.00 So the question is now are the Actual angle for camshaft readings within specs and could incorrect timing be attributed to these new issues? And... Do I have to give the DME time to "relearn"? Txs all

Curious to know who's got the "world record" haha. I just crossed 130k on my 04 CTT. on my way to work one day and it starts stumbling. Instantly i'm thinking coil packs, but it clears up as i'm coming home. Pull the codes, see a misfire cyl 7. pull the pack, cracked. pulled all of them, 7 of the 8 were also cracked. Order 8 new ones. What's interesting is i had -02 revision packs, which i believe would have been original factory packs, or at least **** close. 130k is pretty good compared to some of the others i've heard about. What's also interesting is how quickly they fail. i had just done plugs at 120k, and inspected all the packs.

Hi guys! this is my first post! let's see if anyone can help me out with this problem. i have a 2004 porsche cayenne turbo with 120 000 miles. took it for a high speed run last night (130+ mph). when i got home i noticed a very rough idle and the car was shaking/vibrating. i can also hear a noise from the engine similar to an exhaust leak. the check engine light was already on prior to that ride (codes are : p2187, p2189, p0011, p0441) no new codes so i assume there is no missfires? feels like it runs on 7 cylinders.. coils and spark plugs have been replaced recently can a high speed run causes a blown spark plug/coil ? i still have boost so i assume it is not a boost/vaccum leak? can it be a stuck valve, bad spring valve all of a sudden? do i need a compression test or how can i check if one cylinder is missfiring? (i speak french sorry for grammar) thanks for your help! jp

Hey all, here's a video of the problem I'm having. It was happening when I was getting a MAF sensor code. I've replaced it, reset the codes, driven two tanks and am still having this issue. Other than this issue, the car runs great and is getting 24-26mpg average. 2002 Boxster S 6-Speed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFVuFkICEPk

Hello to all - On my 2003 996 C4, all 6 of the coils read 0.9 to 1.0 ohms, I see this is outside the range, but because it was consistent across all 6, I thought in not a problem. What do you think. I am not able to idle at all in it's current state, but I do not know whether it is spark, fuel or something else. It ran fine before I pulled the engine for IMS bearing upgrade, so the rough idle could certainly be as a result of something else I fouled up during the IMS repair, but at this time, simply wondering if 0.9 to 1.0 is unusual enough to be causing the engine not to idle. Side note: it will run OK between 2k and 3K rpm, but if I try to rev higher, it is being limited through some fail-safe means at exactly 4k rpm. Thank you, Randy

Let my son take the Cayenne to prom while I was out of town. Of course, it chose that moment to have a major issue. Engine started running very rough. Died several times. We had the car towed home. Now it starts up fine, but idles very rough and will die after a minute. If you try to rev the engine in neutral it will make about 3K RPM before sputtering a bit and quitting. I could really use some idea of what this is before I take it to my mechanic. Strangely, It was just in the shop two days before this incident having the rear drive shaft replaced. Could any of this be related? The car threw two codes which are gone now P2177 and P2179. Both related to "lean of peak at idle". There are no other warning lights or codes displayed. Thanks for any help the members can provide. 04 Cayenne Turbo

Hi, I am relatively new to the Porsche world. I bought a '99 996 about 2 years ago, and it has been running like a charm until recently. Earlier this year I moved from FL to NC, where winter exists. Around the time the temperature started getting near 40 degrees (which rarely happened in Florida), the engine starting exhibiting a very rough idle when starting cold. I got a code for a bad o2 sensor, but fixing that didn't seem to resolve the problem. No other codes, so I started going through a checklist of things to replace: MAF, coil packs, spark plugs. I cleaned out the throttle body. Nothing seemed to help the situation. Right before Christmas, my alternator died. I got a new one on Friday, and put it in today. In doing so, I noticed that there was a small crack in this hose: What is this hose and could it be responsible for rough cold idles? Also, what does it connect to and how hard is it to replace it?

Hello! First post here. hoping someone here might be able to brighten up my day. My 2007 9974S manual has a list of problems that I'm going to attempt to solve myself. This is due to some serious cash-flow problems (2 and a half years of unemployment, go figure :| ). Currently, I seem to have 3 faults with my vehicle. Please note my knowledge of Porsche mechanical engineering isn't good but I'm confident I can learn on the job very quickly (it's in my nature). Brief car history: Ex demonstrator (sigh), owned for 4 years. bought directly from OPC and has always been maintained by them. Car has spent roughly 18 months standing, prior to March 2010, and then another 6 months standing from April to August this year with battery disconnected. No warranty of the vehicle, since I was under the impression Porsches are bulletproof. Internet proved me wrong. Car is driven. I did not spend a large amount of money in order to drive everywhere sedately. Although it certainly isn't 'ragged' it is not driven everywhere slowly. Car currently uses mobile 1. Will be changing oil as soon as I can to something that is thicker, maybe 5W40 or something similar. Radiator Fans: I've noticed my oil temperature has been creeping up to 100c after hard driving (sometimes beyond 110) and there's been no sound of the monstrous fans spinning at any point. I've also not noticed the engine fan (is this coolant related, or airflow to the engine?) hasn't been spinning either. Engine temperature doesn't exceed standard operating temperature. I suspect it might be a switch possibly, or debris. I'm going to attempt to strip the front bumper off this weekend with the aim of attempting to get at the radiator fans to either clean them out or replace them as necessary. However if it's the 'switch', I don't have a clue where to start. Drive Belt I'm not sure if I'm suffering from paranoia here, but one of the belts at the back of the engine seems to be rattling. It is not the belt that drivers the alternator, rather the one immediately the right of it and below the main air intake. I will post a video tomorrow (it's late here in the UK, therefore starting the car up is a no-no). It isn't rattling the the point where it seems it's about to fall off, but I'm fairly confident it's making more noise than it used to. This has left me wondering whether my flywheel is either bent or on it's way out. I've noticed at times first gear has been difficult (not sure if this is related). I've not driven the car hard since this apparent rattle started, but it has felt to me occasionally that power delivery is ever so slightly hesitant Ticking Sound The noise is coming from the driver's rear wheel (car is right hand drive). It is only noticeable at idle and is not present (not that I can hear of anyway) once in motion. Please note i have an unplugged Sports exhaust system so I cannot honestly hear anything other than the roar from the engine. Oil consumption has been completely normal. Originally was concerned since left-side exhaust was sooty, turns out that the car was over filled with oil. Since cleaning the cars exhaust and driving another 1000 miles in it, I have not noticed any soot returning on the left hand exhaust nor has there been any increase in oil consumption. The car has also not been smoking excessively. I'm not sure this rules out Bore scoring failure, but better to be safe than sorry. I am honestly complete unsure of what to make of it. From doing my reading, I was wondering whether it might be hydraulic lifters on their way out? Not quite sure if they make a ticking sound however. I've always maintained the car to the highest service standard possible, and whilst the paintwork is less than showroom standard (chips etc) I would be devastated if my current only means of transport died on me leaving me requiring an outlay of the best part of £10k for a new engine. Any help would be much appreciated.