number9ine

I'd just call Suncoast or go online and get new ones. Did not think they were even painted!

And WELCOME!!! :renntech: :D

Unfortunately they are painted with a soft-touch coat and you can only order a new control unit, not the individual knobs. :(

I have a small scuff on mine that hasn't bothered me enough to fix, but when I do I plan on trying some matte hobby paint and mixing white and black to get the appropriate shade. If you have a lot of paint missing on your switches the chances are it'll be a poor match for the feel of the original coat, but it shouldn't be hard to make it look good.

Mark

...might call too much attention to the S's phony-baloney blanked-off front intake.

Just tell the adjuster that your third radiator was torn off in the crash. ;) Seriously, it can be added with relatively little effort.

997 have lower overall maintanence requirements then 996, more power and much nicer/better quality interior.

Sorry, I can not agree with that statement.

Maintenance is the same - power differences are minor and interiors are not much different in quality. Design differences - yes, but quality no.

Loren's right, the quality is even for 996 and 997, and everything else is close. Aesthetically, some prefer the 997's interior and exterior as it has more ties to "classic" 911s than the 996 does. I like the way both look.

The base (non-full-leather) 996 interior materials feel like a step down in quality as compared to the base 997, even though assembly is drum-tight and everything holds up well. Cover either one in full leather and they're both very comfortable places to be.

The OP should get the best possible car he can for his money. If that money buys a 997, I say go for it because they'll be younger and a bit more powerful if you opt for the S. If not, you can't go wrong with a 996. Everything else is down to personal preference. Things like IMS failures are relatively uncommon and no one has hard numbers on failure rates, but it's been known to happen on 996s and '05 997s before they changed the IMS design. Get a PPI and warranty to reduce potential failure modes and associated costs.

Mark

Has anyone ever converted a N/A 3.4 in a 01 996 c2 into a turbo, is there a kit or a shop on the east coast that has done this?? I know about the supercharger kits available but I can't seem to find a turbo kit. Yes I know it would be wiser to sell C2 and get the turbo, yes they are cheeper now but I do not want to sell my car for any reason, so that is not an option and I can not have two p cars so that is not an option. Just curious at this point if this is an option or not and what the cost factor would be, Thanks in advance for your anticipated assistance with this. Yes I do track days and autox on a regular basis take direction from execelent instructors with PCA and seat time is a priority for me in my quest to become one with the car but I'm still curious if there is a turbo conversion kit or mod for this engine/vehicle set up. NOS is not an option for me.

I've only seen supercharger kits. And despite the impression that you've read other posts here with the usual caveats about modifying your stock motor, this bears repeating: If you want more power, your best option is to buy more car. Sorry, it can't be avoided. :D If you stick with NA cars, Mk2 996s and early 997s are getting cheaper by the day and a powerkit or S motor will give you a substantial gain over your 3.4.

What about pricing a used Turbo drivetrain? I imagine this would be $$$$, but if changing your car is not an option it might be cheaper than building a turbo kit from scratch. I'm not sure if the stock 996 mk1 transmission is compatible with the split-case turbo engine, so you may have to look for a GT3 tranny to get a 2wd replacement.

Mark

I have a 996 4s and had somewhat the same problem. Fially when they were replacing the lifters, they took the engine apart and the camsaft came out in 2 pieces. There was no friction between the 2 halfs, so it would run for awhile with out trouble , but then the engine light would come on .. Has run perfectly since. mike

Dude. I wanna see pics of this...

Howdy!!

997-2 CS

Does anyone with a manual transmission have trouble engaging 1st gear from a stop??

Sometimes it is dificult to get into first, even shifting to second or third before trying first again.

Sometimes it delays getting off the line at a red light with the inevitable honker assclowns behind me.

Sometimes I'll cycle the clutch several times and try again...and...no joy!

I don't want to "force" it, I am told one should not "force" german things.

When german things don't work as they are designed, suposedly there is something wrong....right??

Plus, the linkage shift feels sloppy anywaaaayyyyy...I can live with that.

But, dudes, that delay at the red light is frustrating sometimes, embarrasing, WWWTTTFFF!!!!!!!!!

When some hottie sees you sitting there with your finger in your ear its not cool.

( I'm not really that upset, I will probably keep the car anyway.)

(The italics and other gilding was for emphasis only, a form of entertainment and nothing more.) :rolleyes:

Gotta be careful here, some of you I know are sensitive. Don't want to get anyone excercised, OK?

I do love my car,,,,,,,and this web site.

Odd that your shifter feels sloppy. I will say that my 997.1's OEM sport shifter requires some effort to engage first when the car isn't warmed up, but it's tight as a drum. Even the non-sport shift in the 997 is light years ahead of the 986/996 shift.

I think that by design, most manual cars keep you out of first gear until the car is moving very slowly or stopped. Second gear up into first at full stop is usually the path of least resistance for me. Maybe the dealer should look at it?

I haven't driven the 997.2 yet, I wonder if they've changed the shift action from the .1.

Mark

Tell that dog to lay off the sauce and buy it some Head n' Shoulders! :D

Happy Christmas to you too!

Trying to get information on best way to develop more horsepower in a 996 GT3. Have made a number of changes already including Fabspeed headers and exhaust, Fabspeed intake system, fuel injection upgrades, new gearbox close ratios.

Interested in hearing from those who have experience with further changes to generate horsepower. I am told it gets difficult and expensive from here on.

Thanks

Odd how people always ask how they can generate more horsepower, when what they really seem to want is more torque for acceleration. Considering a GT3 can go much faster than speed limits and most track designs allow, what practical use do you have for more hp?

If you're looking for more powerful acceleration, maybe it's time to buy a Turbo or GT2. Or turbo/SC your GT3 if you're brave. With every change you make to your drivetrain, you're introducing more potential failure modes and possibly robbing yourself of usable power (torque). That extra 15-20 hp that thousands in mods have bought you on a 400+hp car may be elusive to find in the seat of your pants.

I know this soapbox isn't particularly welcome for those who like to mod their cars. To my mind you'll find a better return on investment by purchasing more car, especially at this level of stock performance. If bragging rights on output numbers are your game (and it probably is if you're estimating whp loss percentages) then you may be better off with traditional high-displacement engines and the cars that fit them. Or you can trust that dedicated folk with lab coats and slide rules have given you the best mix of power, reliability and driveability that your car allows.

Mark

If anybody cares to see the damage I wrought, here's a coupla pics: both the front and rear passenger side wheels/tires were hit.

Holy lobster wheels Batman! It looks like the "dip" was more of a crater with jagged teeth. Heck, I'd send a bill to city hall for whatever insurance doesn't cover. :D

Could have been much worse, it's only metal. My condolences to your wallet.

Mark

355,

I'm sorry to hear what happened. At least it's just a wheel and tire and not a collision. Hopefully you will get her back soon.

Merry Christmas to you

Hopefully Sunset's got a wheel in stock, and I won't have to wait too long for the tires (number9ine: gonna go ahead and order two ), and being that the car is currently undriveable complicates things (this makes a good case for carrying a spare). The important thing is that my No. 2 son is home from classes in Boston, and my silly cat is ecstatic. We're set to have holiday get-togethers with loved ones, and that's what REALLY counts. Thanks Phil, and the best of Holiday and Christmas wishes to all.

Same to you 355! Have a happy and safe holiday with your family, that's a part that Sunset can't send overnight. :)

On the way home tonight from a little Christmas shopping, I hit a major unseen (it was dark) dip at a suburban intersection in an unfamiliar neighborhood. About ten minutes later, my steering felt a little funny, and the car had a tendency to pull to the right upon breaking. I was close to home, so I decided to drive the rest of the way. After I pulled into my garage, I saw that the Mich Pilot sport was flat and heavily damaged, but the edge of the wheel rim looked as if it was hit by a .50 caliber bullet: part of the rim being torn and bent away from the tire! The tire is covered by a road hazard warranty, and I've got an estimate request into Sunset Imports. I also notified my insurance company right away. The worst part is that I'll likely be without my car for several weeks while waiting for a wheel from Sunset and a tire from Costco. And I wasn't even driving fast.

that's terrible news man. I'd order two tires unless the other one is close to new.

No immediate plans to track it - geez.....does State Farm cover racing damage?

Probably not. Google "track insurance" and check out the pca.org website to check out coverage. For a typical DE event it's $2-300. Don't do something silly like asking State Farm on the phone, you probably don't want that in their call notes. An informal conversation with your local agent is best.

My wife is supportive and I would never choose the car over her. She asked tonight if she would be able to drive it.....Ummmm how do I answer this? Any advice :)

My answer would be: Heck yes! Ride along and watch her grin. The cars are meant to be driven and I'll give anyone a shot in the driver seat of my car as long as they can drive manual. Worst case is she catches the bug and you need to work some overtime...

Found a CPO for about $28, tip, 19" wheels, no Bose, no xenons but leather and heated seats etc. Great service records and new tires, front rotors and pads and the 40K service was already performed. Think this might be the one - going to look at it this weekend. I have a strict budget for the monthly payment and what APR I will accept. Yes, I would kill for this beautiful little car now but will wait if the deal isn't right.

Gotta say this is the best site/forum I have seen yet. The Audi forum I belong to is a joke - nice to see an active and helpful community!

Todd

Go drive it and see how it feels, some P-car dealers will let you drive alone depending on their comfort level and insurance. Go top up, top down, get the RPMs up, take it on some twisties. Get on the brakes hard when no one's around, you want a pedal with firm initial bite and progressive action. Listen to the car, there will be some squeaks from the top over bumps but all you should hear otherwise is motor. Check for underbody leaks, excessive wear on the interior/exterior, etc. It's usually not possible that anything other than a bumper cover is re-painted on a CPO car from the dealer, but you can ask them to run over it with a paint meter while you watch.

If you like to hear your music with the top down, Bose is a big help and it's expensive to substitute if you don't get it. Leather and full leather are different, the latter covers door cards, dash, and a few other areas. Newer base 987s have a top grain leather that isn't as nice IMO as the smooth nappa-style leather they use in on the upkit models. The top grain stuff is in my VW wagon and while it wears well and smells OK, it's no comparison to the leather in my 911. Xenon lights are nice to have, but they've spoiled me on the halogens which work 95% as well. A hardtop is a plus if you can find one. it's quieter than the softtop and less susceptible to wear in bad weather.

28k buys a lot of Boxster, shop around. For that money you could be looking at some nice 996s (prev. generation 911) with similar mileage, so why not drive one for the sake of comparison? The Boxster's more neutral and "tossable," the 911 more powerful. Drive a 986 and 987 S and non-S, the older model should be a $4k+ savings and is still a lot of car.

Think about the 18s if you get into a 987, the 19s have a harder ride and are mostly for aesthetics. I recall reading something, maybe in Panorama, about a Porsche engineer who worked on the 987 and was quoted as preferring the 18s for handling. Tires are more expensive on the 19s so you save a bit of coin too.

:renntech: I learn something new every time I log in.

Mark

Thanks Mark. You have a valid point. Although I went on to the Tech Art website and this spoiler has been wind tunnel tested... It is truly an aesthetic add on.

:cheers:

Wow, I should've clicked through to the link. It's great that they put the effort into making it safe, some folks might not think to check.

I remember a big debacle back when the New Beetles were indeed new. Everyone was getting these boomerang-shaped rear spoilers on the decklid. When the 1.8T came along, it had a retractable spoiler at the top of the rear windscreen. Not long after, a TSB came along warning against installing an aftermarket spoiler with the stock retractable due to high-speed stability issues. Did that stop 'em? Nope.

And then the NB's fairer sister, the Audi TT, had a recall to install a spoiler that prevented high speed take-off. Aesthetic and necessary. :)

Thanks Richard. I would definetly go for the painted even though my car is black. If this was matched with a subtle lip on the stock front bumper (like the one in this picture) I think it it would look nice. Without being OTT...

Spoiler, such an apt name. Screw it in up top for the 993 "basket handle" look. :D

I suppose the only time I want a spoiler on the back of my car is when it's doing something I need. Seems that Porsche has taken care of this for me by making one that only comes to keep me from going airborne at high speed. This add-on spoiler is definitely subtle, but who knows what effect this little guy will have on your high-speed stability?

I love the classic 911 profile and feel like I'm in the minority sometimes when I look at the pictures of parked 911s with their spoilers erect. It's like some kind of German Cialis ad, I can imagine the car sitting in a bathtub with $29.00 playing in the background and a baritone man from the fatherland chiming in: "Wenn die Zeit ist recht…"

I'd say if you want something back there it should have a purpose other than looking fast standing still. If your car's not a track rat or going for the land speed record, why bother? If you must, the aerokit spoiler is the best match in my eyes.

Mark

This is a great community, it's amazing to see everyone give and receive in kind. It IS the people (the cars ain't bad 'neither).

Eric, I know who I'm calling when it comes time to buy the Dension unit I've been looking at.

Mark

Awesome replies and advice from everyone.

First, everyone seems to warn about the maintenance costs of Porsches. Items such as brakes, tires, oil changes etc and etc. Tires for my Audi are $500+, my oil changes are $120+ and tires for my wife's Jeep will be easily be $600+. I do not see the cost of Porsche maintenance as that much higher than what I already pay or will be paying in the near future. Now if the frequency of tires, brakes and oil changes increased dramatically that would be a little different. I change the oil in my Audi every 5K, current brakes and tires are still good. I'm not overly concerned with having a $5,000 rainy day Porsche fund.

My wife is not overly thrilled with me spending more money on a car - she just doesn't get it. I have waited a very long time for this. I've worked extremely hard to get to the point in my life and career where I can realistically afford a Porsche. To be honest I have to be selfish on this one and do what I want and what I have worked for. We have maybe $3K in credit card debt, a reasonable mortgage and her Jeep payment - that's it. So if I want to purchase a Boxster and my payment rises $100 who cares and what does it hurt? I make over 6 figures alone and while a perm SAP geek contractor, feel comfortable buying one. If we save as much as we spend who or what is hurt?

Where can I find a sample DME to review and learn how to read and analyze it? Is this something that I can find online? Should I befriend a Porsche tech for a copy of one?

Thanks again.

The recommended oil change interval on the Boxster is 12k or one year, whichever comes first. This comes from the owner's manual and OPC. If you track the car I recommend a more frequent oil change interval.

Tires for the Boxster will cost up to twice what your A4's tires cost; they'll last 1/2 to 2/3 as long as your A4's do (unless you're running summer rubber on your A4). Brakes need bleeding every 2 years, and major service intervals are 30/60/90k depending on what you consider to be "major." Clutch job is $1400ish at an indy mechanic and depending on your foot you may need it done as soon as every 30k. Best brakes on the planet, but they eat pads if you use 'em like I do. Track pads are $$ and last much longer, but are very noisy. If you drive year-round in cold climates, a set of snows or all-seasons with used wheels will set you back $1200 or so.

The maintenance schedule is more rigid, the wear items wear faster unless you drive like Miss Daisy's riding shotgun, and the parts are more expensive. It will cost more and you should budget in accordance.

In my opinion it's good to be selfish, so long as it isn't to the detriment of your well-being or the well-being of others (you know, "my preeecioussssss"). If you know what you can afford and how you can afford it, go for it. I'm 30 years old and on my second P-car; I bought both used for screamin' deals and counted the pennies I spent with excessive care. I put a lot of cash upfront, but I pay a bank every month and am not ashamed to admit it.

My advice on any car you buy: Don't fall prey to a payment you can't afford (DP+tax+ins+payment), or the car will be so much sour milk. I got the best interest rate on my loan, put up significant equity and shopped within a budget I set for myself beforehand (OK, OK, I went a little above that budget, but sacrificed a few other toys to settle up). Be rational about the purchase so you can be emotional about the car. And DON'T p!$$ off your wife for the sake of a car. She's forever, it's only metal. I'm extremely lucky that my wife understands my habit and shares in it! Find a way to make this common ground with your Mrs. and all will be well in your universe.

Best of luck!

Mark

Awesome shots! Makes me wish it wasn't snowing here. My poor car is hibernating until spring. :(

Mark

Insurance isn't too bad on the boxster.

Maintenance is pretty bad, though. Repairs are not cheap, and tires are also expensive. An oil change is $200-300 (9 quarts of synthetic!), although it only needs to be done every 20k miles or so.

Stef, who's changing your oil? $130 at my indy, or less if I do myself.

Sap, I was a car salesman in a former life and can tell you this: NEVER give the dealer a monthly payment to work with. If you're financing the best thing to do is determine what you can afford in your monthly budget, then shop for a loan somewhere other than the dealer. It would be one thing if you were shopping new and could take advantage of a manufacturer APR special, but on used cars your best bet is usually a local credit union.

Take these steps:

1. Find a credit union near you. Get the lowest APR from their site on a used vehicle finance for the term you prefer.
   
2. Plug that rate into an auto finance calculator online along with your monthly payment limit.
   
3. Enter the equity (if any) you have in your Audi under the "trade-in" box.
   
4. Make sure you factor in tax, license and dealer fees. When you're done you should have a maximum purchase price.
   
5. Go find cars that fall under that max price, or a little outside if they're very nice examples. Haggle down. Most used Boxsters will have $2000-5000 worth of wiggle room in this economy.
   

If your credit isn't so great, don't let it be an excuse to keep you from trying the method above. If you must rely on the dealer for financing, agree on a purchase price BEFORE you discuss financing. Dealers make 1-3 percentage points on a typical finance deal, meaning that if you get "bought" by their finance company at 5% you could end up paying 8%. Find out your credit score before you set foot in the dealer to know what the ballpark APR range will be. You can negotiate your finance terms!

White987 is right, you shouldn't be considering this purchase unless you have ready cash reserves for maintenance and repairs. Tires alone cost $800-1200 and you'll get all of 15k out of them if you drive hot. Brake pads and rotors are the best in the business and their replacements ain't cheap. Read this forum to save yourself some bucks on these and other easy maintenance you can do yourself.

Good hunting!

Mark

I've never been a huge fan of chrome wheels, but the design is very clean and it compliments the car nicely.

Take some better pics for us, and watch out for potholes! :D

What a bunch of smart *** answers! Here's a guy coming to this forum to get some suggestions on how to get a little more out of his Porsche and all of your answers are stupid and ridiculish! The only one I agree with is the guy so says not to race on the street as it is dangerous to oneself and others. First, losing some weight of the car is good. Get some light weight wheels, that is a good start. Next you may try some aftermarket mufflers and some headers (maybe cat bypass) since the early 996s had relatively poor exhaust systems, to loose wieight and make the car sound great (could scare someone out of a race). ANd ECU upgrad is a good start, since most of these cars are a little "retarted" computer wise. A good aluminium flywheel will help and a short shifter will help with the shifts. You can a add a cold air intake (suggest Fabspeed over K&N) and a BSM air filter. To be truthful I do not know if any of these modifications will add any power, but I would suggest getting a good dyno before and after the mods, to see if there is really any change in performance. I also added a Sprint Booster to get a little more throttle response and it seems to make the car "feel" a little quicker.

JGriffin, all of these items add up to a cost that's roughly 1/4 of what the OP's car is worth. Truly lightweight wheels (maybe a few lbs. lighter than stock at each wheel) cost thousands. The cheapest of the aftermarket exhausts are buzzy, the most expensive are just polished noise cannons that don't really add much grunt, if any. After you tack all these things on and take a trip to the dyno it's likely you'll be disappointed with the result.

We're all here because we love performance cars. Because every 911 is built to maximize performance as-equipped, any improvements will be expensive and incremental (even on a Turbo). If that disappoints, I suggest you buy more car, or buy less car and spend the extra cash on mods. There's always the third way that I advocate above--buy yourself some track time with an instructor (your local PCA region may host driver education events, they're a great resource!) and feel faster in ANY car you drive.

Mark

Get yourself a good helmet, Snell rated. Don't worry about lap timing, switches, stalks, etc. unless your instructor tells you to. You will have an instructor, right? :)

Check your tire pressures on arrival, after every run. DON'T let out air as mkaraoglan advises, otherwise you'll lower the minimum cold pressure and your car will be unpredictable in the turns. The tires are designed to run at the hot pressure. Invest in a torque wrench or bring the one you have and check your lugs after every run. On the straights, glance down at your gauges and check water/oil temp and idiot lights for any signs of trouble. If it's a driving school or driver education event: watch your mirrors and be ready to give point-bys, and be patient with others in your rungroup if you're ready to pass. Before every run, check your brakes with a good firm push in the pit lane before entering the track.

IT'S NOT A RACE (well, unless it is, and I REALLY hope it's not your first time out!)! Concentrate on being smooth, "slow in fast out" like mkaraoglan suggests. Turn on your Sport or PASM button for flat cornering, or the car tends to hop a bit under lateral load (mine does anyway). Don't turn off your traction control, that's the button that F1 drivers press for 10/10ths driving, or Jeremy Clarkson presses to shred tires. You should be doing neither of those.

Tire squibbles come off with a wash, or a bit of compound at worst. a little low-tack masking tape around sensitive areas will do, but I dig your wax idea.

PAULSPEED is a track veteran, and many of his breed like some extra camber. My advice to those modding their car is: wait until you can outdrive it before you try and improve it. If you really want to improve your car's performance from the start, spend your money on track-rated brake pads. They'll resist fade and wear much less than the stock pads, the only trade-off is noise. Brake pad changes can be done in a parking lot with a lug wrench, jack and 20 minutes of your time. It's very easy.

"Don't lift" means that you should never come off your throttle abruptly in a turn. If you do, you'll have an off-track experience. And if that happens, don't panic! Let the car go in the direction it wants to go and get off the throttle. If you get more than a wheel off where I drive it's customary to be flagged, so be ready to explain how it happened and why it won't happen again.

Have an awesome time! We look forward to your pics.

Mark

hey i own a 2000 carrera and i was going back home and i saw a 2010 750 BMW so i street race it for a while and it really flys away !! :huh:

shall i install nitrous ? can the carrera take that NOS system or there is other things it will make it run faster i dont want to mess it up

Just my opinion but your money would be better spent on a driving school. The 2000 911 Carrera, properly driven, will outperform the BMW 7 series. While the 750 is a 400+ HP car, it is a 5000 lb sedan with a 1/4 mile time of close to 14 secs and a top speed, govener limited, of 155. Much slower than your 911… Again, just my opinion.. B)

Another vote for driver education. For two reasons--a) it is literally the best return on your dollar for performance, and B) you can get your speed on in a safe, closed-track environment instead of freeway racing.

Until you've done that I'd avoid pursuing any performance upgrades. Your car is built to extract the most performance it can from what it has and still remain reliable and relatively economical. Any notable gains you make are likely to set you back the cost of a compact car.

Mark

Hi everyone.

I'm trying to fight the urge to trade in my 2005.5 Audi A4 for a CPO Boxster or Cayman. I'm serious enough about this to lose some money on the Audi and see my payment jump. I have read an awful lot about the RMS and IMS issues. I understand that a used car that has been driven is better than a garage queen with no/little miles. Ok, but what do I look for in a pre-owned Porsche - obvious signs of abuse, accidents, lack of care? When I test drive both the Boxster and Cayman this weekend are there any signs of trouble that I should be aware of?

I'm sure adding the negative equity of my Audi into the Porsche is a stupid idea on some levels (my wife will kill me) however I have wanted a Porsche since I was a little kid. I can finally afford one so why not?

So if any of you can provide guidance and advice on purchasing my first Porsche I would really appreciate it. I searched the forum and found general answers - I'm looking for specific things to watch out for.

Thanks.

Todd

Hi,

Since you've posted this already, you may want to PM Loren or one of the other admins to move your original post to the Boxster section.

Mark

Hello all!

I have just aquired a 2006 C4S with 10K miles on the clock. The car is excellent but makes a clattering noise from the engine on start up for about 10 seconds.

The noise only occurs when the engine is cold and there are no abnormal noises at all once the engine is warm.

Is this normal? I have had two Boxsters before (2.5 and 3.2) and neither exhibited this attribute!

Thanks for your help all and I would like to say what a great site!

Cheers,

Matt

My 05 C2S has a rattle at startup that is the cold exhaust, lasts about the same time. I confirmed with the OPC that it's normal. Not sure if this is what you're experiencing, mine's definitely not a clatter.

I agree with phillipj, even if the car is out of warranty it may be worth 1/2 hr of tech time to have a mechanic look at it.

Mark

Welcome! Since you've already read around a bit, I'll skip the part about searching. :D This site is a great resource, so are others like ppbb.com, and some of the users' DIY pages.

Boxsters are generally very reliable cars. You should be looking for the lowest mileage example you can find in your price range. It's nice to have CPO warranty, but there are aftermarket warranties that are equivalent compared to the premium you pay at the dealer for CPO. When things do go wrong, here's what does:

• RMS - The rear main seal can leak, causing oil to drip at the bellhousing. Mostly an annoyance, but worth checking out.
  
• AOS - The air/oil separator can fail, causing a spectacular display of white smoke and rough running. Cheap part if you do it yourself (<$150), $600 if an OPC (dealer) does it out of warranty. Sign of impending failure is small bursts of white smoke at startup (although this is normal if the car sits for an extended period or is parked on an incline).
  
• Clutch - High performance means accelerated clutch wear. It'll show in extremely high or low takeup. The throwout bearing can wear, evidenced by a very hard clutch pedal.
  
• Top issues - pre-2003 models have a plastic rear window that will fog and crack over time. 2003+ boxsters have a glass rear window and defogger, as well as a third support in the top frame that makes the profile a bit different. You can buy aftermarket glass tops for around $1000-1500 installed. Top cabling can bind, motors can break, etc., so be sure to listen to each top as it goes down and up. Look for undue stutter when lowering (one or two shimmies as it starts off are fine), listen for any straining in the top motor, and check for problems with latching at the front or canvas fitting over the window hoops. All of these can be addressed with some top maintenance.
  
• MAF - higher-mileage cars may wind up with a fouled MAF, which can lead to poor performance, MILs (the "Check Engine" light) and other failures. Read up on how to clean, it's an easy DIY.
  
• IMS failures - From what I hear these are more common in the 996s, but good to know nonetheless. The Intermediate Shaft Bearing (IMS) can fail due to what some consider a faulty design, and can turn your engine into a useless hunk of metal. There's no symptoms you can see without tearing down the engine. There are folks like Flat 6 Innovations who will install upgraded IMS bearings at a cost that's cheaper than a reman engine from Porsche, but it's upfront money for an unknown possibility. As long as you're within warranty and don't abuse your car, Porsche will cover this problem if it happens to you.
  
• Expansion tank and cap - these are both prone to failure and being in the rear trunk will cause a messy coolant spill. The cap is the biggest culprit even on the later 986s, can't speak for 987. Best just to buy one and screw it on at $40. If you can, pull the carpet and foam up on the right to look for any coolant.
  

Always get a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) from a reputable indy mechanic or OPC, your local PCA region can help you choose one. A good service history is a plus. Check the wear items like brakes and tires, they'll cost you. If the tires are new, consider getting a 4-wheel alignment to ensure the best life. If you plan to track the car, be sure to budget for the additional safety items such as rollbar extender (if your club/region requires), fire extinguisher, etc. If you get a tiptronic model you may consider a fluid flush short of the 90k mark, my wife's Tip boxster got flushed at 65k and it made a huge difference in the transmission's feel and performance. She tracks the car, so you may not need this.

Some obvious trouble signs you should look for are: uneven wear on the tires, play in the camber, "cheese grater" syndrome on the drilled S brakes (will require new rotors sooner than later), overspray lines in the doorjambs and hood/trunk lines, ill-fit body parts like fender, bumper cover, etc., excess white residue on the tailpipe, leaking oil, leaking coolant, "french toast" smell in the trunk, tears in the top, tears in the interior. Look for a car that has the nicest possible paint and interior, it's your money so buy the best. If you like options, some of the popular ones are: 18's on the 986 (1997-2004), 19's on the 987 (2005+), Bose (if you like hearing your radio with the top down), nav (if you get lost often), Litronic headlamps (much better night visibility), full leather (on the dash, door cards, seat backs, console and pillars), and PSM/PASM/Sport Chrono (availability varies by year). I like the heated seats because we have winter here, not sure where you are.

The base Boxster is fun, the S is a little more serious. While it's no supercar, you're never wanting for power in the S. The base is more than adequate (if you get a 2000+ 986 or a 987, it's got some extra displacement and power too). Both engines are rev-happy and screamers at the limit, I've owned and tracked each and they're a hoot. I drive a 997 S now, and sometimes I miss the balance in my old Boxster S. Thankfully I can steal my wife's and take a ride.

Take your time. It's winter and a buyer's market, so you should have no problem finding what you want. Don't be afraid to travel a bit for the right car, right color, right options, etc. Enjoy the ride!

HTH,

Mark