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number9ine

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Everything posted by number9ine

  1. I've done both the dealership test drive, and now the Porsche World Roadshow track drive. My impressions to contrast with yours: The car is definitely larger, although not overly so. Despite this, cabin space is still about par with the last model, you just get more dashboard and a bit of head and shoulder room. You make an allegory about weight, but the truth is that the car weighs less in similar spec to my 997. Hop in a time machine to 1963 to see P O R S C H E spelled out in big letters (gold colored, no less!) and you'll have a better understanding of why it's that way on the 991. Perhaps unnecessary, but nothing a bit of dental floss won't fix if you don't like it. I do. I could do without the full explanation of the model designation that goes below though. On the street, the 991 rides like a Lexus midsize sedan. The sound deading is up, the damping more refined, and no tire howl like the older models. It's so quiet that someone thought it fun to pipe in some PVC so you can hear the intake growl when you get on it. It's schtick, but it sells. The steering feel is accurate and without slop, but it doesn't transmit every expansion joint or pebble anymore. I personally miss that. Once you get on a track, the steering feels exactly as it should. The car is planted and neutral. There's little left of the rear bias, although tip-in is still sharp. Still eerily quiet, but with the windows down and the throttle flat on a track that won't be an issue. In short, the car feels soft until you want it not to. As much as this contrasts with the traditional Porsche ethos, it's clear that only Porsche could make a car that commutes and carves like this one. If you don't like the new 991, check out the 981. It feels and looks fantastic. It makes me miss my old Boxster, and it might be the replacement for my 997. Mark
  2. Lost a code for a CDR-220, serial 15010041. Please help!
  3. Mice like to find their way into my cabin filter during the winter. It's happened twice now; 'twas a PITA getting the smell out the second time with the carcass, urine, and God knows what else the critter dragged into my cabin filter housing. Thankfully he used the filter itself as a bed and didn't get under it. Try taking off the fascia immediately left of the battery cover. You'll see the filter housing just under the windshield. Might as well replace your cabin filter while you're in there... whatever you do, don't spend $90 down at the dealer. You can get a charcoal filter for $30 on Pelican or elsewhere. I used a combo of Nature's Miracle, copious amounts of water, and a citrus cleaner from Stoner (but not on the paint). The smell of orange mouse ***** has finally dissapated after about five months. This winter, I'm going to stuff the whole area full of something to make it inhabitable... not sure what. Good luck tracking the smell. Mark
  4. Are you lowered? Wide wheels? Spacers? The common solution to rubbing with any of these mods is to roll your fender lip. I'm not aware of any adjustment that can be made to the steering rack or supporting parts that would alleviate the rubbing. Mark
  5. The rear main seal (RMS) is probably what the carfax refers to as the "driveshaft seal." The intermediate shaft flange is the piece that holds your intermediate shaft; the IMS bearing underneath (as I imagine you have read) is prone to fail on earlier models, but I've read a reinforced bearing was introduced in the 2006 MY that should lessen the risk. The newer Porsche CPO is roughly equivalent to the new car warranty in terms of coverage, which is nice. I know values have crept back up, but your dealer's pricing is probably the top end of the market. Prior to certification, it's likely that they took the car in for $10-12k less than their advertised price. I'd push harder on price, considering it's still a buyer's market and the C2S is the volume 911. There's plenty of nice examples out there. Good luck! Mark
  6. +1 on the cosmoline. The rubber smells too from heat and squibbles on the exhaust, but that deep oily smell after a good drive seems to emanate from the cosmoline coating on the engine block. I'd venture to guess that's mostly what you smell. If the smell is acrid, perhaps you have an under-inflated tire that's rubbing sidewall on corners. Mark
  7. Your master cylinder is at the front, I'm not sure any part of the braking system would be causing that noise. I suppose it's possible since the brake booster could be causing something to "fart" on the motor from undue strain placed under braking. I would assume you'd feel something in the pedal, like increased effort or uneven braking. If something is loud enough for you to hear in the cabin, I assume it'd be easy to localize outside the car. If the sound doesn't reproduce at idle, you could place it on jackstands and have a helper bring the car up to a very slow speed and brake. This assumes a flat surface, jackstands that can withstand the weight, proper jacking at the jack points under the rocker and liberal application of common sense. Do this at your own risk. Mark
  8. Does it sound like the motor is making the noise? Is it accompanied by a change of any kind in engine speed? I'd agree with your assessment of a vacuum leak. Is your MIL lamp (check engine light) on? Have you checked your brake fluid reservoir to make sure it's above the minimum line? I'd get the car started in a driveway and have a helper pump the brake while you listen for the noise at the rear. Might help narrow it down. Mark
  9. Sam, If you're looking to HIDE scratches then you should seek out a good wax. I use Zymol and have been perfectly happy with it, it's very easy to get that wet look after only a few coats and it fills in surface imperfections well. You can find it at most retailers within a few bucks of every other wax. Therock's suggestion of a quick detailer for wax maintenance is a good one, provided you apply on a clean surface. You should wax your car every six months or sooner for consistent protection. I recommend you don't choose a polish wax. The same imperfections you're trying to hide can be magnified or added to by the polishing elements. Polish waxes are designed to do two separate things at once, and accomplish neither very well. Spiderwebs, light scratches and holograms can be addressed with a paint correction, which requires non-wax polishing compounds and special applicator pads, plus a random orbital polisher if you want to get the job done in a reasonable amount of time. Mark
  10. I know nothing about the GT3 lifter, but what you describe sounds like a bad sensor, be it a microswitch or some other kind of device to detect the state of your lift. With a car this new, the dealer should diagnose and replace for free. Mark
  11. 1) you can do a wheel at a time, just be sure to re-pressurize the power bleeder at each wheel. I don't recommend putting the car on one jackstand for stability reasons, especially if you're skipping the bleeder and relying on a helper in the car. 2) As the DIY states, use a 9mm/11mm wrench to open the valves. I place the box end of the wrench onto the bleeder screw, then place the plastic tubing on. 3)I used a plastic sprayer pump from one of those empty spray bottles you can buy at HD or Lowe's. Works a treat. You'll want to evacuate as much fluid as you can. the more new fluid you can place in the reservoir, the less you'll need to top up as you bleed. 4)If you're using clear plastic tubing at the bleed screw, it's apparent when the clean fluid comes through. Make sure you re-tighten all the screws appropriately, and start at the furthest wheel from the brake reservoir (passenger rear), working your way closer. After closing the system and taking a test drive, if your brake pedal doesn't come to full pressure after a pump or two then there's a problem. Mark
  12. My brakes are infact ok but my scarp yard offered me to change them with mine for €300,- with mine as trade-in, they are from a totalled S version, still thinking about it do...what more did you change on your car? I'd advise against it. The S rotors are more expensive and wear both pad and rotor faster due to the cross-drilling. You'll also be interrupting the front-rear brake bias. Porsche designs their braking systems to exceed the car's capabilities, meaning that if you're experiencing fade, you either need to perform maintenance (flush the brake fluid, replace pads/rotors) or perhaps upgrade to a pad with more bite than stock, such as Pagid Yellow. You may want to re-evaluate your braking strategy if you're boiling the fluid in this car on a regular basis. The stock Boxster's brakes are perfect in my mind. You can perform a full service (pads, rotors, fluid flush) DIY for about $450 USD, which is the same money it costs to do the job in my old Passat Wagon with floating calipers. Without a major power upgrade there's no need for more than the stock brakes have to offer. Mark
  13. If you're at stock ride height, you should be fine. The suspension travel should limit the tire from rubbing at the lip. The spacers may affect the handling, but the tire width is the same as I have on my C2S in the rear and I don't notice a significant difference. You may have uneven tire wear issues with the spacers unless you've had an alignment with them on. Mark
  14. The symptoms definitely point to the "open/close" latch microswitch on both doors, odd that they would fail at the same time though. The switch can only be ordered as part of a new latch assembly unless you try to repair it as shown in the DIY. The R&R is fairly simple if you already have the door open to do the regulator. I believe the part number is 8N1-837-015-C-M100 for the driver door, not sure about the passenger. My wife's Boxster is having the same problem intermittently, and when it happens a movement of the latch away from the cabin with my finger can make the switch trigger. You might try the same to verify. The interior lights stay off when it happens because the car is led to belive the doors are closed. Good luck! Mark
  15. The folks at Crutchfield will tell you if there's an adaptor for your existing amp, but I'd imagine you'd have to splice into the harness that goes to the amp. That's right in the front trunk where most people mount an aftermarket amp, so it can be done without too much effort. You may get more bang for your buck with installation of rear channel speakers behind the seats; there's a factory hifi kit that places two small tweeters at either side of the stowage compartment under the roll bar. My wife's Boxster has one and it makes a big difference. Hunt the classifieds or call a dismantler, there may already be a prewired harness at the passenger side that one of these units (or a Bose sub) would plug directly into. Mark
  16. I'll start with the obvious: One is a passenger sedan, the other is a purpose-built sports car. Apples and oranges, really. I assume you're asking us to provide counterpoints for the next bench race. I'll say this: 'Tis not the tools you bring, it's how you use them. Both are fantastic machines. The Merc is not designed for track duty, it's a high-speed high-torque Q-ship designed to embarass most sports cars in a straight line. The Turbo is the ultimate GT 911, and is at home on open road and racetrack. One holds more passengers, has a softer ride, and a trunk for stowing lots of goods; the other handles better, stops faster and is relatively small and light. If your buddies are savvy, they may own the Variant with its fantastic cargo space and rearward-facing seat. I humbly suggest that you invite your friends to join you at a high-performance driving school (HPDE) weekend that's open to all makes. You'll all be grinning so hard ear-to-ear that you'll forget all about the nuances of which car is faster in a straight line, or which responds more kindly to throwing absurd amounts of money at torque and horsepower improvements at the expense of balance and reliability. All the best! Mark
  17. I've used it on spark plugs in aluminum heads for years with no problem at all.....on both racing and street engines. Just sayin'....... And I haven't for years. No problem at all. Just sayin'.. and that's anecdotal - which is always open to questioning.. Can you show us any documentation where Porsche recommends it's use? I can't seem to find the link now, but Porsche apparently have a TSB stating that anti-seize paste can insulate the spark plug, preventing a proper ground connection and therefore causing potential misfire issues. I'll post if I can find. Mark
  18. Depending on the options your Boxster has, you may already have an amp. Look for a black box just aft of your spare tire in the front trunk. If it's there, then all you'll need to do is splice the stock harness at the amp to pull power and speaker leads into place. Any sub install you consider will be difficult because there's little room in the passenger space, expect to do a bit of wiring to make that happen. The harness adapters from Crutchfield typically mate an OEM female plug to the factory speaker and power plugs in your dash, then give you leads you can splice to the new stereo's harness. It's a great way to make a clean, reversible install if you sell the car down the road and the new owner wants to go with the OEM setup. If your car didn't come stock with an amp, you'll need to do a fair bit of splicing to create a new harness for the amp. In the meantime, the Crutchfield solution is cheap and effective. Mark
  19. Welcome Peter, and nice find! Speed yellow seems a love-it-or-hate-it color, I happen to love it. It sounds like you have a clear picture of what you want your car to be, and it'll be great to see the finished result. We have a tiptronic P-car in the family (my wife's Boxster) and although I'm a manual trans snob, her car gives me grins and sees track duty. I'm very interested to know more about the clearcoat for the headlamps. Is your body shop doing this? I'd be afraid the clearcoat would yellow over time with the heat coming from your halogens. There's also the potential issue of diminished light output. If it were me I'd probably start with the polish, and see how long the improvement lasts. There are films out there that protect the lamps and are removable when they go bad; my wife's car has a set and they've been on for years now. While I'm bandying about my opinions unsolicited, I'd stick with the 996 Turbo bumper, the 997 style looks a bit out of place on a prev-gen car. Have you looked at the MK1 aerokit bumper? I think the prettiest 996s are MK1 with factory aerokit. For a nice example, see Loren's ride in the Registry. Mark
  20. <cracks knuckles> Is this the Royal "we?" :) My father has long instructed me to "believe none of what I hear, and only half of what I see." You have it on the authority of a service advisor at your local dealership, not from an engineer at Porsche. The colloquial form "I know a guy" certainly applies, although it was not intended as a remark to belittle the veracity of your service manager's engineer associates' claim, nor to strip your question of its relevance. PCNA frequently provides fleet demonstrators for press use and "ride-and-drive" events. It is guaranteed that these cars are, ahem, driven like one stole them. Your instructor and event leader was likely paid to demonstrate the full capabilities of these wonderful vehicles, recommended break-in be damned. The break-in recommendation in the manual was written by a copy editor and approved by an attorney based on an assertion made by a committee of technical experts. I therefore predict the result has a gaping margin of error built in. There is no caveat in the manual that says "engine damage WILL occur and this vehicle will be inoperable should you exceed the recommended break-in." Certainly then, a binary answer of "it breaks" or "it doesn't" to the question of "what happens when the break-in recommendation isn't observed" is a logical fallacy. The phrase "your mileage may vary" comes to mind. Agreed; this should be expanded to cover "every engine in existence." I covered that in my first post, see "common internet wisdom." We're making more of it with every keystroke! Great job on maintaining your cars! Now, what does this have to do with the price of tea in China? Correlation does not equal causation. Absent a public showing and analysis of the data that are prompting Porsche to suggest a 4200-rpm break-in, we really have no definitive answer to this question at all. Other insights and experiences that lack that data will be ill-served to settle this question for you/y'all. Same here, I/we am/are tired! It's been fun. :) Mark
  21. This topic has been covered many times, the short answer is no. Whatever the difference, the hundreds you'll spend on the upgrade may net you a small "butt dyno" payoff, and maybe not even that. You're better off spending your money on a driver education program. PCA has one of the best out there, look up your local region and sign up. Mark
  22. I've never seen a study of what happens when break-in procedure isn't followed, but gradual increase in the use of the powerband every 500 miles sounds like the common "internet wisdom" on the subject. I believe that an easy break-in is meant to help gently seat all the wear surfaces in the engine. After 2K miles, this should be neatly done even when following the 4200 RPM limit in your manual. After that, the heat produced from sudden hard driving will have less of an adverse effect on the engine internals because they'll all be at a broken-in tolerance, and are otherwise designed to handle the load. I think that you can choose the Porsche method or the "I know a guy who says" method without any significant adverse effect. Just drive smooth and easy for that first 2K, and cool the car down appropriately before parking it. After 2K, hard driving is fine so long as it's still smooth. Frankly, any revs above 4200 in second gear on are probably extralegal, so this discussion may be moot. ;) Mark
  23. Chatter could be the result of a prematurely worn release bearing, or the remainders of glazing on the clutch itself. IMS is shorthand for the intermediate shaft, which has a bearing at the rear of the engine (where it meets the transmission) that can fail prematurely. There's been some talk about an IMS failure detection system coming from Flat 6 Innovations (who also provide a retrofit), hopefully we'll hear soon. A very small but vocal number of people with M96/M97 engines from the Boxster and 911 have seen this bearing fail with catastrophic result, usually destroying the engine. The bearing starts its life as a sealed bearing, but oil eventually evacuates the bearing grease, and destroys the bearings and races. The speculation on prevention runs from replacement to frequent oil changes to driving like you stole it; all topics are covered ad nauseam on every P-car board if you do a search. Let us know what it turns out to be with your clutch! Mine's got a little chatter in reverse but nothing that I worry about. Mark
  24. Are the statements above a result of direct ovservation by the mechanic? I would suggest you could reproduce any clunking at the axle shafts by jacking the car and moving them by hand. Have you gone under the car and had a look at the transaxle mounts? I know precious little about the 944s but I would say it should help to get an up-close look. I'd check the shafts to make sure that they were mounted properly by the mechanic.
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