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The front trunk micro switch is notorious on my 02 S, the catch point is really late and usually I have to give the trunk an extra push after it fully latch to make sure the indicator goes off. I'm sure there is a way of adjusting this but I've not spend any time since giving it an extra push usually resolve this. There is nothing special with this switch it's just an on off switch.
I purchased my 2002 Boxster S with 160K miles accompanied with a bad OAS and bad final drive for under USD$6K ended with a repair bill of slightly over USD$ 3K and still have a leaky coolant system .. but it's been the best purchase experience for me since the engine still purrs and the annoying 2nd gear non syncro can be over looked if you LEARN to shift correctly :). These cars perform best once properly warmed up as it a pedigree and only perform once properly prepped, I drive the heck out of if it and it still demand more.
When you say wont start, does the engine turn over? If it does not turn over or occasionally turn over, it could also be your ignition switch or a bad starter motor. If this is a manual transmission the you 'll have to floor the clutch to start and that could also be the switch on the clutch that is bad too. Good luck and keep us posted.
Electrical gremlins are always impossible to diagnose. Make sure to check all the relays and fuse located on the drivers side as a first step. Inspect if there are any sign of corrosion or water stains/damage. Also, inspect under both drivers side and passenger seat for wet carpet of sign of water. If there are sign of corrosion in the fuse/relay box the this car might have been in a flood. How does the car drive and run?
I think there is an emergency release cable hidden underneath the rear bumper on the left side, you might have to take the wheel and cover off to access. I've seen photos posted on this before on other projects that requires removal of the rear bumper. The rear trunk has 3 release cable, 1 for the releasing from inside the trunk one for the solenoid and one for this emergency release from outside as I've mentioned. I'll try and find more info in the meant time. Good Luck Eng
If it's the solenoid then for sure you can use the emergency cable release that is located in the left wheel well behind the headlight assembly. You will have to remove the left wheel and also the wheel well cover to get access to this cable. If your lock mechanism is operational, pulling on this release cable should do the trick. In my case the solenoid worked just that the latch mechanism was pinched refusing to allow the hood to open. If you hear the solenoid activating but the hood not releasing then it could possibly be the cable to the solenoid actuator has slipped off or if you have forgotten to hook it back up the first time you remove the latch and reinstall. Keep us posted.
Hi Chris, Sorry for not replying with picture, seasonal allergies have gotten the best of me these few days. Once you get the hood open, remove the entire assembly from the car. Proceed to remove the micro switch ( I think there are instructions here on this forum), right underneath the micro switch assembly is a coil spring, this is the culprit. I bet you the 90 degree bent end of this spring has come off and is sandwich against the latch return. To get this back into the slot you'll have to release the tension from the other end of this spring. Once the tension has been release, use a flat head screwdriver to pry the loose end back into the slot. Proceed to reengage the tension and assemble once the spring i s back in the slot. You might have to adjust the microswitch, it might be off the sweet spot, you'll hear the alarm chirp when you engage the locks. Cheers
Lube it from the front in the middle of the gap, to the right of the red latch release, you'll have to angle the nozzle almost horizontal at the striker. I'll post picture when I get home. First try the emergency release cable located inside the right wheel well (you'll have to take off the wheel well cover) and see if it unlock. Good luck.
Just and update - Problem resolved. After spraying the latch with penetrating oil and letting it sit for 20 min. I had to try one last time before trying something more destructive (like hacksawing the striker). With a little more prying and hitting the release button on the FOB repeatedly finally open the front trunk. It turns out the issue was caused by the latch return being pinched against the housing due to the latch return spring popping off. I guess years of opening and closing action have caused the return spring hooked end being straighten out and eventually popped off. The housing of the latch mechanism was also bent inward towards the release. A few minutes of prying and greasing eventually return the mechanism to full smooth operation. I've also moved the tool pouch and stow it behind the passenger seat just incase this ever happen when I'm out in the boonies and need to tow at least I have the tow hook readily available for use. Cheers to all. Hanuman
Thanks for the tip, but there are no high spot on the lid of the trunk. The last time I closed this was yesterday when I got to work. It was a bit difficult latching securely but eventually after some stronger assurance and that was it .. it refuse to open at the end of the day when I tried to open the trunk to stow my bag .. hmmm. I'll try and find these tools to assist. Thanks again.
Cannot for the life of me open the front trunk of my Boxster S (2002). The battery is fully charged and I can hear the lock releasing (at least the solenoid is activating) when I hit the remote or even from within the car with the switch on the driver side. I've even tried the emergency cable release on the passenger side wheel well but to no success. I've even recruited my wife to push down on the trunk lid while I pull my hardest on the release cable but the lid is stuck fast. Anyone know a way to get this lock to release? I'm contemplating on hacksawing the striker from thin gap of the trunk. Desperately seeking help. Hanuman
Bought My 2002 Boxster S last Sept and it came with 161K miles (instant 100K club member). Engine still Puuurss and still shift crisp. Put on 5K miles and am looking at some minor repair on coolant leaks. It's my daily driver and loving it Just hit 185K ... wheeee!! 12/12/12