navin in KC

Anone with more info for the radio volume mod?

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Here is the link. I found it a few months ago:

http://p-car.com/diy/steeringradio/

It looks pretty tough to do, though.

I was thinking that there might be a company that would sell a couple of stick-on buttons that might be able to be placed on our steering wheel. Maybe these could be put on the fingertip side of the spoke, because they will probably be too ugly for the thumb side. They could be wired to a wireless remote that could work the (aftermarket) stereo.

Anyone have any ideas here?

I would also suggest previewing your post before posting it.

Larger photos could be hosted on a website, such as www.tinypic.com.

Just a couple of ideas.

Jason,

i would love that same pm

putting in an aluminium wheen this weekend!

thanks!

-Dipak

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Is your car a tiptronic?

I've been thinking of trying to get a tiptronic steering wheel for my car and wiring the buttons up to the stereo to use them for the volume.

Very impressive, good 'ole KC engineering (I'm from KC myself), I'm def gonna try it this winter.

Did you use your elevator motor or a TT version for the functional blade?

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The motor that moves the C4S spoiler up and down looks to be an electric one. The motor that moves the Turbo spoiler looks like it is hydraulic.

I don't think you could use the C4S motor if you wanted to. I bought the decklid off of someone who puts on other aftermarket decklids. It was complete and the hydraulic motor was already in it. You just connect the wire to the plug that the C4S decklid was plugged into.

Is the blade now functional?

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I think you are talking about the moving spoiler...and YES it is. I wouldn't sacrifice that for anything.

Here is some more information on this:

I moved the smog pump by using the bracket that comes with an EVO air intake kit. I was able to secure one of these from the local shop: "Imagine Auto". It was the last one they had. It looks like this:

(the factory bracket is on the left)

This moved the air/smog pump out of the way like this:

Then I cut a section out of the airbox and used Bondo to seal it up.

(I am not very good with Bondo.)

Then, when I wasn't real happy with my bondo job, I bought an EVO induction kit and put it in there:

(The problem with this is that I don't like the way the EVO sounds, so I'll probably change back to the bad bondo airbox.

Here is how I would do it:

Read this forum for details on the install of the mufflers, but when you shove the muffler up in there, have the silver vaccuum hose already on it and put it through the hole into the engine compartment.

Then later, all you'll have to do is the electronics install...which is actually a pretty big job, but you won't have trouble hooking up that bit of vaccuum hose to the muffler.

my understanding is that the dealer would have to be able to "prove" (to some extent) that your work caused the problem that they are refusing to cover. It would probably also depend upon how much they value your business, because they should realize that if they make a false claim, then you probably won't go back there.

You could even buy someone's exhaust that they've had removed to have a shop work on it and then just put it on yourself.

For example, I (and probably many others) have removed my stock exhaust from my 2004 C4S, so I could put on the Sport Exhaust. The two mufflers are sitting in my attic looking for something to do right now. They are pretty lonely up there.

Just a thought.

It was a tough job, but I made it work.

For starters, the decklid fits on the car, but it won't close due to the "pistons" that push up the spoiler at 75 mph. See other details here:

Discussion about making airbox work

It required the following modifications:

1) Move the air pump (aka smog pump)

2) Cut out part of and re-seal the airbox

3) Cut a new hole for air intake in the underplate of the turbo decklid

4) Seal the turbo air intake hole in the underplate of the turbo decklid

5) $50 for the new "badge"

Yes, I realize that I now have two center brakelights and it does look a little funny, but only the spoiler one lights up when I push the brake pedal.

Is there any place that this type of light can be purchased in the U.S.A.

With the weak dollar, this thing costs $102 + shipping (from europe, I presume).

I found it.

It was actually well below the wiring that goes to the spoiler. It was directly to the right side of the airbox and it is just a little spot that the wire plugs in to hold it.

Thank you Sandy.

I found this lying there, I'm not sure if it was plugged into something. I can't find anything near it to plug it into. I'm hoping it is supposed to be just lying there.

Thanks for any help.

Can we see a picture of it sitting in daylight to get a better idea of what it looks like?

Here is the link. I found it a few weeks ago:

http://p-car.com/diy/steeringradio/

It looks pretty tough to do, though.

I was thinking that there might be a company that would sell a couple of stick-on buttons that might be able to be placed on our steering wheel. Maybe these could be put on the fingertip side of the spoke, because they will probably be too ugly for the thumb side. They could be wired to a wireless remote that could work the (aftermarket) stereo.

Anyone have any ideas here?

ha, congrats on the progress.

how much did you get the TT lid for? and is it worth it?  how about an aftermarket one instead?

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I got it for $2050, and will probably end up spending at least another $300 making it work.

I think it was best for me because it was already the right color and I like the fact that the wing/spoiler goes up and down.

navin

I wasn't trying to dis the pump, just trying to get it out of the way.

I was able to get it moved. I got a mount from the evolution motorsports intake that moves the pump out of the way.

thanks for the help.

i see you have been trying to do the same task as i have, TT spoiler on the c4s.  any luck so far??

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Yes and no.

I got it on the car and it fits on the car just fine. When you close it the two struts that are the hydraulic device that push up the wing (at 75 mph) hit the airbox on the right side and the smog pump on the left side.

Moving the smog pump is easy. I found a bracket that goes with the EVO intake that moves the smog pump. I couldn't figure out if a GT3 or turbo have a smog pump, but that bracket might work also.

Getting the airbox out of the way is tough. I think that I am going to buy an extra airbox and cut the corner off of it in such a way that I can still seal it up.

Then there are three other problems:

-The fan seems like it is going to rub on the intake rubber tube.

-I will need to cover the hole that was the Turbo intake hole.

-I will need to make a new hole for the C4S intake.

I just put in an EVO V-Flow cold air intake (v1) in my 1999 c2 (tiptronic) last night and then took it for a long ride.  Install was a snap and I had never done something like it before.  The only difficult part was that i did not have the special torx wrench that has the hole punched in the center of it but I used pliers and worked it out.

Impressions:

1. Easy install

2. Engine is not noticeably louder at idle

3. I think that the car feels "quicker"  - (it could all be in my head-i dont think so)4. More of the metallic "whine" of the engine comes through while driving

5. at RPM > 3500 just a marvelous new aggressiv sound to the engine "pulling"

6. the idle seems a little rougher to me now.

Overall, I am a big fan and would recommend this to anyone looking for a relatively inexpensive and easy upgrade to a c2. after i purchased it, i had second thoughts about installing it after reading many of the threads about different peoples impressions and experiences.  In the end, I am glad i put it in....

I am just trying to figure out if there is any huge advantage to getting the version 2 (besides the fact that it looks a lot cooler)?

I will try and post pics soon.

Thanks all.

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Do you have the ability and could you post a photo of yours installed?

I am a C4S owner and I am looking to move what I believe is called the "smog pump" or maybe it is an "air pump". Here is a picture of it:

I am hoping a GT3 has the pump mounted further to the left of the car, in behind the left taillight. If it is mounted there, I could get the GT3 bracket and use it to reposition mine.

Here is another GT3 Photo:

Here is my car:

It looks like there might be two problems:

one is the oil filler tube.

The other is the fact that the fuel injector looks canted to the right on my car and it looks like it is headed straight back in the GT3.

Anyone have any comments?

Will this GT3 Airbox fit (and work) in my C4S?

The reason that I am doing this is NOT to try to improve performance. It is to get a Turbo Deck lid and spoiler to fit on my C4S.

It looks like a very similar airbox to the TT, but obviously puts the air into the engine differently.

Where in NJ are you? I've been contemplating the PSE as well. Would be great if i can hear it as well.

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I am here to reassure you. You don't need to hear it. If you're afraid of it being too loud, then you just press the dash button to make it quiet.

For less than $20, simply put an adjustable voltage activated switch inline with the Speed sensor wire and set it for something like 2 - 3 volts.  The other end of the switch is connected to a 12 volt line and away you go.  The only problem with turning the detector off and on is that it will beep each time it come on unless you have one that can be silenced on startup.  There is an endless aray of ways to do it.  You can even put a voice activated switch in the car.

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what is an "adjustable voltage activated switch" and where could I find one?

Are you sure this is such a good idea? Each time I turn on

any of my radar detectors they make their start up sound.

Do you really want to hear that each time you exceed 30

(or whatever)? The automute would be better, but then you'll probably

have to hack into the radar detector circuitry (probably easy, but a pain).

If you can hack into the digital speedometer circuity, then

you just need a set of leads and an or gates to see if any

of the bits beyond the 6th bit (0010 0000 =32 mph) are set to one.

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actually, as suggested above by ZX7R, a better way to do it would be to just make the relay turn on and off the speaker. The V2 audio accessory has an output for a speaker that could be shut on and off.