navin in KC

Ye Olde Williams Defender - Great game when it arrived on the scene  :D

It would be reasonably simple to achieve this cutout feature with some simple electronics circuitry.

You would need to measure the frequency of the speed sensor signal at a few speed points eg 10mph, 20mph, 30mph etc. This will give an idea as to the linearity of the speed sensor signal.

Once you have this data it is quite easy (and cheap) to interface a frequency to voltage converting IC (eg LM2917 - Just a couple of dollars) to the speed sensor signal. Once this is done it will provide a voltage which is proportional to the frequency of the incoming speed sensor signal.

You can then place a voltage comparator (another cheap IC - eg LM311 etc) to check this voltage and compare it to a preset reference voltage (adjustable via a trimpot etc) so that the device will trigger at your chosen speed.

Once this is done - all you need is a simple relay (preferable) or a transistor driver which is connected to say the speaker of your radar detector so that it can disconnect the speaker when travelling below your chosen set speed trigger point.

I can knock you up a circuit if required but you will need someone to verify/measure the speed sensor signal so the circuit can be setup and calibrated for the speed ranges that the circuit will operate over.... 

You can also do it digitally utilising a 'PIC' microprocessor but some more diagnostic work would be required to accurately measure the incoming range of the speed sensor signal and some programming would be required for the micro. A more elegant solution which requires a little more work, but this method would be preferable if the unit was going to be produced in large numbers etc.

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wow, this is very helpful. Thanks.

Most of what you said goes over my head, but could you refer me to a place or a book where I could read about this?

How do I measure the frequency of the speed sensor wire? I have a volt-meter and some basic understanding of what this means, but not sure how to measure it.

I can re-wire a bathroom, repair a digital nerve and wired up my PSE just fine, but you lose me here.

thanks again,

navin

Do you have this type of a diagram for any 996's, like a C4S or a Turbo?

The V1 needs an automute like the passport.  Whats up with the sound system?????

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I'm having a Reus system installed in a couple of months, which is the soones he can do it.

It will have: GPS, Sirius, and a bluetooth phone kit.

I get sick of sitting at a stoplight and hearing my V1 make so many beeps that it sounds like a game of Defender.

I don't care if there are any cops or 7-11's around me when I'm going less than 30mph. If we could figure out a way to make some kind of a servo turn on and off, based upon the speed sensor wire, it would accomplish this.

Any of you electronic engineers game?

If not, do any of you guys have any ideas as to where to start in on this?

I think that it is one of the things that makes a C4S look great from the back.

In my opinion, the back of a Cab is nowhere near as nice looking as a Hardtop, but the red stripe and the wide rear of the C4S Cab makes the Cab look alot better.

I also think that the spoiler on a TT makes the back of a Cab look better, but the hardtop still look the best.

(Please note that my car is a Cab.)

Mine smelt like something burning for a short while also. I wouldn't worry.

I seem to recall that there is NO gloss finish PSE switch.

The impression that I got was that they never made the gloss switch because all of the 996's that they anticipated it would go in had matte finish switches.

I know you are getting sick of me by now, but:

It looks pretty similar to my trunk:

This "auction site" seller thinks it would fit also:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-996...sspagenameZWDVW

A C4S has the reflector on the main body and the TT lid is longer because it does not have the reflector area.

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What do you mean its longer? Wouldn't it be shorter if it did not have the reflector?

When I installed my PSE mufflers I had the problem with the muffler missing the Cat Pipe. The muffler pipe was too low.

Here's how I got it installed.

I left everything loose (the three muffler bolts and the bolt that tightens the single clamp pipe.

Then I loosened up the connection further upstream from the cat.

I then pushed and pulled and got the pipe to line it up. I pushed on the exhaust pipe, pushing it towards the midline of the vehicle and then tightening up the clamp that connects to the cat pipe.

Then tighten up everything.

It is a P.I.T.A., and almost seems like you've got the wrong muffler, but it works.

I understand that we can't put a TT spoiler on a C4S, but why?

In theory, we should be able to just change the trunklid and hook up a couple of wires. The C4S and the TT have the same body, right?

Someone enlighten me here.

I hate to ask such as stupid question, but:

Does this type of modification have much of a concern of voiding the warranty.

similar question:

Will I need to remove it when I take the car in for service?

I just bought a jack last week at NAPA.

It was a $250 jack that they had on sale for $160. I suspect that the sale is still on.

It is a low-profile jack that goes under the 996 easily. It has the double pump or whatever it is where it goes up quickly with no weight on it.

It is also very heavy, so you can't really pick it up.

navin

Does this mean there may be a market for stock 996 mufflers?

What are you guys doing with your stock 996 mufflers when you remove them to install PSE?

I was installing headers on my 1999 986 and managed to have a manifold  bolt head break off. UGH! Anybody have experience drilling these things out...or any other suggestions for getting the end of it out?

Just for info, I aborted the header project when the bolt broke and simply checked the torque on the rest of the manifold bolts and put everything back together. No exhaust leaks so far...

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I've broken a number of bolts off in cars in the past, mostly my 1966 Mustang.

Most part stores have what my dad calls an "Easy-Out", which is a misnomer.

You drill out the center of the bolt, then put the easy out into the hold and turn it, usually by hand. It has reverse threads that grab the bolt and unscrew it. I'd soak that bolt with penetrating oil a number of times before you drill it.

Good Luck.

I got my PSE in yesterday and I've tested it out. It was a little tough to put in, so if anyone has any questions, I may be of some help.

For those who don't know, here are the settings:

1) Standard (don't press the button):

Loud: Slower than about 29 mph

Faster than 45 mph

Quiet: between 29 and 45.

2) "Off" (press the dash button and the light turns on)

Quiet at all speeds.

I don't get the fact that it is loud at low speeds. I'm driving down my street and it seems like I'm rattling peoples windows and waking up babies (I exaggerate a bit).

I think I'd like to have two settings

One where it is only loud over, say 35 mph, but I guess 45 would be okay.

The other where it is Loud all of the time, no matter what speed.

I have seen the hacks where you cut the diode and it makes it loud all of the time.

Anybody have any comments? I suppose I am being a little too particular.

It does sound great, on loud setting, though.

I've tried most FM modulators knowd to man, and have given up. Unless you live in a rural area with few strong fm radio signals there will always be some interference. I even hard-wired a modulator into my antenna jack with an on/off switch and the sound quality sucked. The Dension iPod connector is never going to happen, so I just live with what I have; IMO it doesn't make sense to rip out everything and install a new system unless you're keeping the car forever.

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I would use a hard-wired FM modulator, I've heard that some of them cut out the rest of the Antenna input to the stereo to cut out intereference. Have you tried one of these?

How's this for the stupidest plan ever:

Put in a stereo with navigation, MP3playing capability, Sirrius radio, etc.

I'd just throw it in one of the other slots in the dash and connect it to the CDR-23 via an FM modulator.

I know the sound would be mediocre through the fm modulator, but at least, I wouldn't have to change out all of those components. If they ever figure out how to make an Aux -in for the CDR-23, I'd switch over to that.

I realize that it's stupid, but it wouldn't screw with the factory audio for resale.

Okay, I found the grommet. Thanks for the help.

I still don't know how to get the wires from the door sill to the convertible top bay.

Any tricks there?

allright, I figured it out:

I hooked the three-colored wire to slot 25 where there are a bunch of other wires the same color.

I hooked the other wire to the B10 fuse. I turned on the car and nothing went wrong.

:cheers:

Here is the next question:

I cannot figure out how to run the (other) wires to the engine compartment.

I understand that I run it along the doorsill, but I have no idea how to get it into the convertible top bay and then no idea how to get it into the engine compartment.

The instructions have this terrible photo of where to drill:

But that looks nothing like this:

thanks for any help.

navin

I'm installing the electronics for my PSE and there are two wires that I am a little lost with. Hopefully someone who has been through this can help.

The instructions state:

1) Hook the GR/BL/BR wire "To jumper plug 5/2 (slot 28)"

and

2) connect the RE/BU wire: "Crimp to wire BK/RE; 1.52 for fuse B10"

The second one is a little easier, I guess I cut off the connector that is at the end of the RE/BU wire and hook it up to this wire behind the fusebox, connected to fuse B10.

The other one is a little weird, I'm not sure where "jumper plug 5/2" is. I already connected a brown wire to slot 28, but this three colored wire doesn't match any of the other wires in slot 28, they are ALL brown and it seems a little weird putting this other color wire to connect it to about 9 other brown wires.

Thanks for any help.

navin

I am considering changing out my CDR-23 Head unit for a Pioneer Head Unit.

One of my main goals is to be able to switch the system back to the CDR-23 easily for resale.

One of my other main goals is to get Sirius. I don't think that there is any way to get Sirius radio to show the song names on the PCM2's screen, so I'm stuck with an aftermarket system, as far as I know.

Anybody have anything to add here?

I'm hooking up a bluetooth phone kit to the CDR-23. I got the $17 kit from Becker that includes the radio removal keys.

The instructions say to put the supplied wire into pin #3.

Actually, pin #3 already has a wire in it. so, I tried to put it where I think they mean, which is one of the two other open holes.

When I try to shove it in the hole, in all kinds of ways, it just won't go in there. I tried it with the plug in the radio and out of the radio.

and another picture of the hole I'm trying to put it in, which isn't #3, by the way.

Anybody been through this?

p.s. If anyone knows how to make my photos smaller, please let me know...sorry.

I saw this on Porsche Pete's Boxster board:

http://wa4ekg.home.att.net/996images5/FWLswmod2.html

I thought I was good with electrical stuff, but I get lost at the end of the instructions:

"...will be routed to the instrument cluster where it will be spliced with the piece of cut GREY/BROWN wire of one of the cluster's electrical connectors..."

jeez, does this mean I have to remove the instrument cluster?

At this point, I am asking myself again, do I really want to know if/when the spoiler is up?

Anybody gone through this?

thanks,

navin

Solve your problems go to www.crutchfield.com

they have the hardware you seek for $20. While you're there look at the Alpine with integrated XM. I tried putting in satellite radio and sirius, but the space behind the radio is not enough for the receiver. So I removed the Becker radio (which was poor at it's best) and replaced it with the Alpine XM//CD Receiver CDA-9820XM.... great radio, great tunes.

:clapping:

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yes, but Perry, according to your profile, your boxster is a 1997. It would be a dream to hook up a new stereo to that car. The newer cars have the dreaded MOST Bus that doesn't allow a very easy connections.

Most of the posts I've seen regarding putting in a new stereo in a car with MOST requires changing the amp, and the speakers also. I've even read that when you remove the stereo, the car's computer has a problem with this and the car MAY not work properly, although going to the dealer and having them tell the car's computer that you have no stereo should fix this.