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Byron in Atlanta

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About Byron in Atlanta

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  • From
    Atlanta GA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 996 Turbo
  • Former cars
    2002 Boxster S, 2005 Boxster S, 1997 Boxster, 1986 944 Turbo

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  1. Okay, took the ECU out and cleaned all of the connections. Checked all the wires, no fraying, burnt or exposed wires. Checked the relays for the DME and Start Lock. Both were good. Swapped them around with relay from O2 sensors. Checked and cleaned the connections to the engine wiring harness. Connected everything back up....no love. Still "Failure Indicator".
  2. No other devices were connected to the OBDII. Here's the whole story. I went to Road Atlanta to a Track Day. I noticed during my first run that the boost would not go over .6 bar. It was supposed to go up to 1.1 or 1.2 with this tune. Even stock it would get .9 or sometimes 1.0 so I suspected a boost leak. I took the car to a shop at the track. They checked all of the hoses and connections and could not find a leak. After that I had them do a corner balance and alignment on the car. When they went to drive the car off the scales, it would not start. We checked all of the fuses and engine connections. Today I am taking out the harness bar so I can get to the ECU. I called Cobb this am and their best guess was micel. I am going to be checking all of the wires and connections.
  3. the battery was hooked to a charger when the photo was taken.
  4. Yes it has been running fine for over a year. This just happened today. No warning or indication of a problem. Parked, went to restart and this. A Google search found one issue on Rennlist from 2005 and that turned out to be a soldered on tune upgrade. So far as I know, my ECU has never been soldered on.
  5. My 01 Turbo won't start and shows Failure Indicator on the dash. It has been flashed with a Cobb Accessport tune. The Accessport cannot talk to the ECU. Nothing seems to be able to connect to the ECU. All the lights on the dash come on, but will not crank over or even try to start. HELP!!!
  6. I know this issue gets beat to death but but I cannot seem to resolve my issue with over a year of dealing with it!!! Last year I converted my car to rear wheel drive. After that I would get the dreaded PSM/ABS failure whenever I would get a little spirited in my driving. Track days were the worst obviously. So I would disconnect the PSM pump in the front trunk. This would at least allow the ABS to continue to work. At first I thought this issue was a result of removing the front running gear and thought the ECU needed reflashing since the error said something like "Signal improbable". After a few weeks, it started throwing the P0102 code, so last March I replaced the MAF. I thought this had fixed the PSM/ABS Failure issue, but upon the next track day, it reappeared. So now I got the car back after 6 months of front end conversion and it will barely run with the MAF connected. I have been disconnecting the MAF to drive the car, and it runs great, but the PSM/ABS Failure and P0102 occur instantly. So I got a Durametric tool and connected it and have attached a sample log. The MAF seems to be working based on what I have read online, but it runs terribly. It spits, sputters, and searches for an idle speed. When revved, it is not smooth, and won't hold a steady RPM. Disconnect the MAF and it runs fine, but the PSM and ABS shut down and the CEL comes on.
  7. When I installed the new engine, I visually inspected the hoses and fittings and opted for those that looked the best. I used the Diverter Valves that were on my original engine as they were billet units that were fairly new. I went this morning and purchased a mechanics stethoscope and can now confirm that the pump is working on cold start up. It ran for about a minute and then spun down. Short of removing the engine completely, it is very difficult to check all of the connections. The car runs great but I cannot get my tag for what could be a loose or cracked vacuum hose!
  8. Figured I would just revive an old post as I am getting the 0491/0492 code on the engine I just installed. I reset the code and it may show up again in 5 miles or it may be 200 miles. Either way, the readiness will not set and I cannot pass emissions. I was afraid that I left off a vacuum hose or something so I lowered the engine and checked all of the hoses that I could see/reach and checked the diverter valves. All seem in good order. Here is my question: Should I be able to hear and tell that the SAI Pump is running when I turn the key to the on position, or does it only run after start up? Once I start the engine, I cannot hear the pump activate? I can put my hand on it but it's hard to tell if it is running due to engine noise/vibration. I pulled the plug and the top on number 1 side is hot, but it is hot even with the key off?!?
  9. brake fluid into my front trunk?!? It is located just under the master cylinder and the black hose that comes from the reservoir is leaking brake fluid just as it enters this contraption. Seems to be the fitting or white piece at the end of the black tube that is leaking. What is this thing and what does it do? Can I replace the fitting or do I need a whole new thingy?
  10. So I got under the car today and removed the plastic covers and found this laying on top of one. Gotta be a bad Transmission mount!
  11. Here's what happens. At mid RPM's I can hear and feel in the clutch pedal a vibration and an audible squeak. More RPM's and it goes away. Depress the clutch pedal and it stops. Here is a video. You can hear it first at :35 in the video below. It really gets going at :50! The transmission was rebuilt less than 10K miles. I assumed a new clutch was installed at that time?!
  12. Thanks Loren. I couldn't find a stone. I haven't notice a roaring like you might expect from a wheel bearing. As for the CV's, the boots are clean and tight. Can the joint go bad with not visible indication? I expected a CV would click even when the car was jacked up. It only does it with weight on the car.
  13. Hey guys....I have a clicking coming from the left rear at low speed. I can hear it best when idling to a stop. It does seem speed dependent as it is faster at faster speeds. It seems to go away under acceleration, but I cannot be sure as my exhaust is pretty loud. I jacked the car up and spun the rear wheels, but cannot hear the noise. There is some thumping from the transaxle, but not the same clicking. I checked the heat shield to make sure it was not hitting the rotor. I have taken the wheels off, and spun without the wheels and cannot hear it. I have taken the rear calipers off and removed the rotors to check the emergency brake. There is not a rub or anything obvious that I can see that is hitting or rubbing. I have even removed the center caps and that is not it. I cannot hear it when the weight is off the car. I can hear it when I push the car in neutral. The best way to describe the noise is that is sounds like an old fashioned speedometer cable that is about to break. The car drives fine and everything else seems ok. There is no noticeable noise at highway speeds. Any help or advice would be appreciated!
  14. Hey guys...the LED's were a fantasy. The eBayer didn't know they wouldn't fit the Turbo until I pointed it out. I ended up fabricating some from .019mm aluminum. Not beautiful, but functional. I used .019 mm aluminium and some small sheet metal screws. I used my Dremel tool to cut the screws flush on the back side of the lamp assembly. Seems to me these should have had some metal reinforcement from the start, but what do I know?
  15. Just ordered a set of LED taillights off eBay. Description and pics say 996 Turbo fitment. Fingers crossed!
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