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Byron in Atlanta

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Everything posted by Byron in Atlanta

  1. Okay, took the ECU out and cleaned all of the connections. Checked all the wires, no fraying, burnt or exposed wires. Checked the relays for the DME and Start Lock. Both were good. Swapped them around with relay from O2 sensors. Checked and cleaned the connections to the engine wiring harness. Connected everything back up....no love. Still "Failure Indicator".
  2. No other devices were connected to the OBDII. Here's the whole story. I went to Road Atlanta to a Track Day. I noticed during my first run that the boost would not go over .6 bar. It was supposed to go up to 1.1 or 1.2 with this tune. Even stock it would get .9 or sometimes 1.0 so I suspected a boost leak. I took the car to a shop at the track. They checked all of the hoses and connections and could not find a leak. After that I had them do a corner balance and alignment on the car. When they went to drive the car off the scales, it would not start. We checked all of the fuses and engine connections. Today I am taking out the harness bar so I can get to the ECU. I called Cobb this am and their best guess was micel. I am going to be checking all of the wires and connections.
  3. the battery was hooked to a charger when the photo was taken.
  4. Yes it has been running fine for over a year. This just happened today. No warning or indication of a problem. Parked, went to restart and this. A Google search found one issue on Rennlist from 2005 and that turned out to be a soldered on tune upgrade. So far as I know, my ECU has never been soldered on.
  5. My 01 Turbo won't start and shows Failure Indicator on the dash. It has been flashed with a Cobb Accessport tune. The Accessport cannot talk to the ECU. Nothing seems to be able to connect to the ECU. All the lights on the dash come on, but will not crank over or even try to start. HELP!!!
  6. I know this issue gets beat to death but but I cannot seem to resolve my issue with over a year of dealing with it!!! Last year I converted my car to rear wheel drive. After that I would get the dreaded PSM/ABS failure whenever I would get a little spirited in my driving. Track days were the worst obviously. So I would disconnect the PSM pump in the front trunk. This would at least allow the ABS to continue to work. At first I thought this issue was a result of removing the front running gear and thought the ECU needed reflashing since the error said something like "Signal improbable". After a few weeks, it started throwing the P0102 code, so last March I replaced the MAF. I thought this had fixed the PSM/ABS Failure issue, but upon the next track day, it reappeared. So now I got the car back after 6 months of front end conversion and it will barely run with the MAF connected. I have been disconnecting the MAF to drive the car, and it runs great, but the PSM/ABS Failure and P0102 occur instantly. So I got a Durametric tool and connected it and have attached a sample log. The MAF seems to be working based on what I have read online, but it runs terribly. It spits, sputters, and searches for an idle speed. When revved, it is not smooth, and won't hold a steady RPM. Disconnect the MAF and it runs fine, but the PSM and ABS shut down and the CEL comes on.
  7. When I installed the new engine, I visually inspected the hoses and fittings and opted for those that looked the best. I used the Diverter Valves that were on my original engine as they were billet units that were fairly new. I went this morning and purchased a mechanics stethoscope and can now confirm that the pump is working on cold start up. It ran for about a minute and then spun down. Short of removing the engine completely, it is very difficult to check all of the connections. The car runs great but I cannot get my tag for what could be a loose or cracked vacuum hose!
  8. Figured I would just revive an old post as I am getting the 0491/0492 code on the engine I just installed. I reset the code and it may show up again in 5 miles or it may be 200 miles. Either way, the readiness will not set and I cannot pass emissions. I was afraid that I left off a vacuum hose or something so I lowered the engine and checked all of the hoses that I could see/reach and checked the diverter valves. All seem in good order. Here is my question: Should I be able to hear and tell that the SAI Pump is running when I turn the key to the on position, or does it only run after start up? Once I start the engine, I cannot hear the pump activate? I can put my hand on it but it's hard to tell if it is running due to engine noise/vibration. I pulled the plug and the top on number 1 side is hot, but it is hot even with the key off?!?
  9. brake fluid into my front trunk?!? It is located just under the master cylinder and the black hose that comes from the reservoir is leaking brake fluid just as it enters this contraption. Seems to be the fitting or white piece at the end of the black tube that is leaking. What is this thing and what does it do? Can I replace the fitting or do I need a whole new thingy?
  10. So I got under the car today and removed the plastic covers and found this laying on top of one. Gotta be a bad Transmission mount!
  11. Here's what happens. At mid RPM's I can hear and feel in the clutch pedal a vibration and an audible squeak. More RPM's and it goes away. Depress the clutch pedal and it stops. Here is a video. You can hear it first at :35 in the video below. It really gets going at :50! The transmission was rebuilt less than 10K miles. I assumed a new clutch was installed at that time?!
  12. Thanks Loren. I couldn't find a stone. I haven't notice a roaring like you might expect from a wheel bearing. As for the CV's, the boots are clean and tight. Can the joint go bad with not visible indication? I expected a CV would click even when the car was jacked up. It only does it with weight on the car.
  13. Hey guys....I have a clicking coming from the left rear at low speed. I can hear it best when idling to a stop. It does seem speed dependent as it is faster at faster speeds. It seems to go away under acceleration, but I cannot be sure as my exhaust is pretty loud. I jacked the car up and spun the rear wheels, but cannot hear the noise. There is some thumping from the transaxle, but not the same clicking. I checked the heat shield to make sure it was not hitting the rotor. I have taken the wheels off, and spun without the wheels and cannot hear it. I have taken the rear calipers off and removed the rotors to check the emergency brake. There is not a rub or anything obvious that I can see that is hitting or rubbing. I have even removed the center caps and that is not it. I cannot hear it when the weight is off the car. I can hear it when I push the car in neutral. The best way to describe the noise is that is sounds like an old fashioned speedometer cable that is about to break. The car drives fine and everything else seems ok. There is no noticeable noise at highway speeds. Any help or advice would be appreciated!
  14. Hey guys...the LED's were a fantasy. The eBayer didn't know they wouldn't fit the Turbo until I pointed it out. I ended up fabricating some from .019mm aluminum. Not beautiful, but functional. I used .019 mm aluminium and some small sheet metal screws. I used my Dremel tool to cut the screws flush on the back side of the lamp assembly. Seems to me these should have had some metal reinforcement from the start, but what do I know?
  15. Just ordered a set of LED taillights off eBay. Description and pics say 996 Turbo fitment. Fingers crossed!
  16. Hi guys....I know I am about to get flamed about being a cheapass with a $100K car, but here goes! Has anyone come up with a cheap and easy "fix" for the broken 996tt taillights? I am talking about the issue of the plastic becoming brittle and breaking where the mounting screws attach them to the car. Mine are broken completely on both sides! Based on the poor design I expect I am not the only one who needs or will need this soon! I saw a thread about using model glue, but mine are well past that! My dealer's tech would not pass me for my last track day because I had used duct tape to secure the taillights in place! (I am from Alabama!) They wanted $600 apiece to replace them! I ended up begging my way into the event by convincing the Tech Marshall that the taillights weren't going to come flying out at speed! I hate the thought of spending money on something that still works! Let the flaming begin!
  17. An update.....I have removed the switches from the side of the seat. They are micro switches and are not serviceable. I can hear a clicking from under the seat as in a relay. Oddly, the switch activates the relay clicking whether the fuse is in or out? I have looked everywhere for a way to access a cable or gear to manually roll the seat back. I have looked for a release mechanism and cannot get the seat to budge in reverse. I did manage to get it to move more towards the front!!! I tired whacking the seat rail with a hammer while activating the switch in reverse. Now I have resorted to disassembling the seat completely!!!
  18. I have an '01 996 Turbo and today, I moved the power seat forward to replace the rear floormat. When I released the adjustment switch the seat continued to move forward. I heard the fuse pop when it reached the end of its travel and it would not move after that. I replaced the fuse and it blew again immediately when I tried to move the seat. Long story short, the seat bottom and back are all the way forward and I cannot get in the car at all. Furthermore, I cannot remove the seat as I can only access the two rear mounting bolts! HELP!!
  19. Thanks N41EF....I may shoot you a PM if I don't get it figured out.
  20. ok...got home and hooked up the obd tester.....still no codes, or pending codes. Checked emissions and these are the two items out of eight that show " inc" (inconclusive?) cat monitor & evap system. Also checked the report from the emissions place. Just says "Readiness = Fail" , KOEO = PASS, DLC = PASS , MIL CMD = PASS
  21. The CEL is not on, and there were no codes pending the last I checked. I will check the codes again tonight and see if I can get the emissions guy to tell me which readiness test failed?
  22. I'm sure most of you know about my blowing engines fiasco! Here is my latest issue. My tag was set to expire in June and here in Atlanta, you have to pass an emissions test before you can get your tag renewed. It was May and I had just got the car running again, so I went down for the emissions test and failed. He told me that the computer wasn't "Ready". He said I should drive it a couple of hundred miles and the computer should reset and then I could test again for free. I drove the car a couple of more weeks including a PCA DE, where it did quite nicely, thank you! Took it back to the same place for my free retest. "Readiness = Fail" He says, "how much you drive it?" I say 400 miles like I stole it! "Well drive it some more" says he! But my tag expires this week!!! "Hummmm...you should avoid the Police" I went back this week for a 3rd test and $25 later the guy informs me that it's still not ready!!! Anybody ever had this before? I did a search and I saw some similar issues, but not exactly the same as mine is not throwing codes and seems to run fine. Is there an easy fix? My Dealer assures me that they can probably diagnose it in under 2 hours and mentioned the Secondary Air System? A buddy of mine suggested O2 Sensors? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am about to sell the car and didn't want to spend a bunch of money. I guess I could save the money on a tag. And it could sell to someone in the other 9/10's of Georgia and the world that doesn't require an emissions test. But karma would bite me in the *** I am sure!
  23. metal shavings the size of a dime. Looks as though someone with a wood plane has been inside the engine?!? This was stuck to the handy magnetic drain plug that I got from LN. Any guesses as to the cause/source of the filings and shavings?
  24. The car was running great after I installed the replacement flywheel that Aasco sent me. I had also installed the Accusump and drove the car 40 or 50 miles around town last weekend. Everything seemed perfect. Loaded the car up for the DE at Barber this weekend. Teched out ok and I drove 4 or 5 "parade" laps to get re-familiarized with the track. Everything seemed fine. Went out with my run group and did 2 pace laps....first green flag lap and I let a couple of cars go by as I wanted to bring it up to speed slowly. Got up to about 90mph on the first straight away, through the first turn and up the hill into the next straight, pressed the clutch for the hairpin, down shifted to 2nd and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The engine was dead, popped the clutch to restart, powered through the next straight.....kept it running through the next turns, but noticed a rattle on the subsequent straights. Backed out of it and pointed everyone by. Gave it a little more gas to get off the track and now it is a definite clatter. Limped it off the track...coasted into pits. Started it one more time with my helmet off....sounded like a sack full of wrenches! Pushed it onto the trailer and drove home! FUN! Anyone know of any good basket weaving classes?
  25. Since I went with the electric valve option, you just leave the unit in the "on" position constantly. It is on a circuit that powers up with the ignition to pre-oil the engine and then refills as the oil pressure in the engine rises. As I understood it, there is no reason not to have the unit energized except to service it or the car. I thought it through and it just seemed to make sense, but I could be wrong! (invitation to flame!) :lol:
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