Byron in Atlanta

It was a pretty straightforward install. The hardest part was the plumbing of the line. I DO NOT LIKE BRAIDED STEEL HOSE!!! Looks good but a ***** to work with. I noticed that some folks did a connector at the firewall but I just drilled a hole through the firewall and ran the hose through a grommet. I wired the electric switch into the rear wiring harness in the trunk and mounted the toggle switch in the trunk as well. I used the sandwich adapter and spin-on filter adapters from LN. They were really simple and seem like a good solution to me. The trade off is the much smaller filter, but I am going to buy them in bulk and change frequently. I also went with the LN oil pan extension and their magnetic drain plug. If this SOB blows up again, it won't be for lack of oil!!!

you'll recall the engine would not rev over 4K and I was getting the P1579 code. I got in the garage this weekend and removed the tranny and here is what I discovered. The head on one of the small bolts that holds the friction surface to the flywheel had broke off. The bolt was then bouncing around inside the bellhousing and bent one of the shutter wheel teeth. That is the tooth that was hitting the CPS.: You can see some scaring on the flywheel where the bolt was hitting the bolt holes. It sucks to have to do this all over again, but Aasco has been very easy to work with has a new unit on the way. If something happens 1 out of 100,000 times, gotta figure it'll happen to me! Don't come near me during a thunderstorm!

Found the problem...It seems the vendor that I bought the Aasco flywheel from either sent me the wrong unit, or it was damaged in shipping. Either way, here is a pic of the damage it is doing to the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Looks like the shutter wheel teeth are making contact with the sensor. It is gouged pretty good. So out comes the tranny! YEA!

that is exactly what I was hoping it was not, the shutter wheel on the flywheel. Was hoping to get by without having to drop the tranny. The crankshaft does have a dowel pin that sticks out to align the flywheel so I think it is timed to the crank correctly. I am suspecting either a wrong flywheel or a bent tooth on the shutter wheel. Going to check the wiring to the CPS before I dive back in with trans removal! Also, writing to Aasco to see if there is a known issue and/or fix?

I replaced 3.2 engine in my '02 Boxster S with a used 3.2 from the same model year and just got it running and everything seemed in order during my first test runs. Initially, I was not pushing the engine to make sure everything was connected right and all seemed in order. This weekend I tried to open it up a little bit and discovered that the engine cuts out at about 4000 RPM. It starts spitting and sputtering and will not rev to 5000. The symptoms reminded me of bad MAF's I suffered in the past. I checked the codes and it showed a P1579 or Crankshaft Position Sensor. I cleared the code and so long as I keep the RPM's under 4000 it stays clear. The engine runs perfectly up to 4K, is highly responsive and smooth. I can hold the accelerator at 4K and it runs fine, push to 4200 and the spitting starts. If I push it hard trying to achieve 5000RPM, it throws the P1579 code. I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor with the one from my blown engine. That engine was running perfectly until it threw a rod through the top of the case. Same result, spitting and sputtering at 4200 RPM. I then took out the MAF sensor and cleaned and reinstalled it. FYI, that MAF is less than a year old and probably has fewer than 5000 miles on it. It is the one that was in the car when the engine blew, and as I previously stated, it was running fine. I tired running the engine with the MAF disconnected. It still would not rev to 5000 with the spitting starting around the same RPM's. I checked the codes after that run and had P0102 (MAF input) and P1579. A bit more info, I upgraded the IMS bearing to the LN Engineering, and upgraded the flywheel to the Aasco aluminum version with a new SPEC clutch disk and pressure plate. I am at a loss. HELP

Hello all...I am in the process of installing my new/used engine after throwing the rod in August. I was thinking that I would reuse the water pump from my blown engine as it only had a couple of thousand miles on it. When I removed it, the impeller was chewed completely up. It seems that when the engine blew, metal pieces from the engine case, rods or pistons entered the water channels and destroyed the pump. Any suggestions on how to clean out the cooling system short of removing everything?

Hello all....you'll recall that when we last visited, I had just blown the engine in my '02 Boxster S at a DE at Road Atlanta. Since then I have acquired a replacement 3.2L engine and have ordered the Improved IMS bearing from LN Engineering. I also got their Oil Pan expansion kit and their AccuSump oiling system. Obviously, I am hoping that these measures decrease any oiling or IMS problems at the track. I have also gotten a new AOS assembly from my local dealer and am ordering today a new expansion tank for the cooling system. I have two stock clutches and pressure plates (the replacement engine had one). I am considering an upgrade there as well. My question to the group is what other items should I replace while I've got the engine out? Water hoses? Power steering pump? Hoses? Any recommendations on a Clutch/Flywheel setup for DE's? What about engine mounts? Am I overlooking any weak points that I should look at improving? RMS? I want to make the car a great DE car while still being able to take it on the street. Thanks in advance!

How do you get that? Can an OBD II reader get that?

I probably do 5 or 6 DE's per year. Maybe a couple of track days. Couple of hundred miles track time in a weekend? Maybe a couple of thousand. The guy before me didn't track the car and I have had it for almost two years. I got it to have fun and fun I have had.

The engine in my '02 S blew up at Road Atlanta last month. I finally got in the garage and started taking the engine out and look what I found on top of the engine case. This was a re-manufactured engine that was replaced by Porsche for the previous owner of my car. It only had 60K miles! Here's the hole it left. Many questions! In watching the video of the engine blowing up, I didn't think it had grenaded to this level. A bit of clatter, but no big boom. What causes a rod to jump ship like this? Shouldn't a Porsche built engine last more than 60K? What must I do to insure that the next engine doesn't do the same thing? Obviously a rebuild is out of the question. Do I go back with a 3.2 or use the opportunity to upgrade to a 3.4? Can I do a 3.4 myself in the garage? Is a 3.6 possible? Here's a link to the video.