Kyrak

FWIW, here is what a bad Polyrib belt looks like (and a bad motor mount for good measure). Thanks for the great instructions, I was able to do it quickly after I got the right belt(mine has a supercharger so it has 3 extra wheels to go around and a longer belt).

From what I can tell, it looks like it is part 141-951-253-B-M5206. You can see it in a diagram at http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...2-01-Frame3.htm . I am not sure where this relay box is other than "rear end" and am not sure how hard it is to get to. Anyone else know how to get to this set of relays?

Update: I just got a call from the dealer and it looks like best case scenario! :thumbup: The DME relay had gone bad. So a $35 part instead of a $2000 one. Of course they came up with a laundry list of other things that should / needed to be done. Just FYI, I will include it here: DME relay, refit boost hoses, reinstall seat and DME $35.18 parts, 3 hours labor, $440.18 total. (this was done to get car running) Starter is occasionally (maybe 1 in 20 starts) making the squealing noise which they said means it is failing. $578 parts, 3.5 hrs labor, $1051 total. 15K (car is nearing 45K miles) service $750 Brake System Flush $320 Broken Motor Mount $319 parts, 1.5 hr labor, $521 total Leaking Oil Breather Hose $35 parts, 1.5 hr labor, $237 total Reroute Idle & Throttle position sensor wires (relocated due to the supercharger but rubbing against the transmission in their current spot) 2 hrs labor $270. I had them do the DME relay, the breather hose, and the rerouting of the throttle sensor to keep the costs somewhat under control and will plan for the motor mount and the starter in the future. So really the total to get it running again was $500 for the first indy (labor only troubleshooting fuel pump, computer etc etc) and $440 for the dealer to actually find and fix what was wrong. This is one of those situations where if I had taken it directly to the dealer instead of the indy, it would have been maybe $300 or so. My advice for anyone with strange electrical issues is take it to the dealer since they got to the root of the problem quickly where the indy was ready to start buying parts (contrary to how it normally is, eh?) Thanks guys for your help in troubleshooting this, and if you read the advice above, it certainly applies to the end result of the relay. Kyrak

Update: The shop isn't exactly sure what is wrong with it, but thinks it is either the immobilizer or the DME. It is giving an invalid key code message when he connects the PST2 and he was going to get any P codes for me tomorrow. He is recommending replacing the immobilizer first and then if that doesn't work, the DME. I think I am going to cry uncle and take it to the dealer since it doesn't look SC related and is an electrical issue. I need to find out if the dealer will even touch it of course since it has the SC kit etc on it. I am thinking that will be preferable to just buying parts (especially when those parts are the DME and the alarm which aren't exactly cheap.) Let me know if any other answers pop up that could help, Kyrak

I tried a bottle of HEET with no luck and ended up having it towed to an indy that specializes in Porsches and other exotics. They just took a first glance at it today and it wasn't anything obvious like the fuel pump etc. In the words of the shop manager "I think your computer might have taken a ****" LOL. Which would certainly make sense with everything I have seen so far (sudden stop, bus init error using my ODBII software). The complication is that if it the DME that has gone bad, then it will be hard to get a replacement since the one in there is a Techart version. Anyone have a good source for a new or rebuilt techart DME for a Boxster? I didn't mention because I didn't think it was related, but my box is pretty heavily customized with a bored and stroked 3.0L engine with a 911 camshaft and the TPC supercharger which is why it has the Techart instead of the normal DME. In any case, I will let you know what they find out tomorrow. Kyrak

Yes. I guess bad gas could be a possibility, but I would think that would be more of a sputtering or poorly running issue rather than a shut off. But I have seen stranger things. Kyrak

I filled it up on Thursday at a BP, so have about 3/4 a tank left.

You may very well be right. Maybe some wire just broke or something (although not sure which one could make engine stall in mid acceleration). And I imagine that could be easier to fix than a major part anyhow. My difficulties with my ODBII reader (which has worked on this car in the past) would certainly point to an electrical issue. Kyrak

I am available this weekend if anyone stumbles onto this thread :) If I don't hear from anyone, I may have it towed to Vertex (indy who someone recommended) tomorrow so they can hit it first thing Monday. Is there any logic to my "relay is clicking so it is working" theory, or could it still be clicking, but still be malfunctioning?

Miami Beach, FL (just added it to profile)

I just took another look and do think I hear a buzzing when the key is in the on position. I also feel a click in the fuel pump relay when I cut it on as well. Soooo, if the buzzing means the pump is OK, and the click means the relay is ok (which I am not sure is the case), then I am back to square one. I am trying to decide if this is something I should attempt myself or if the dealer will save time and $$ vs swapping out parts that may or may not be bad. Kyrak

Yes, I was worried I was saying it wrong. It makes the normal starting noise, but just doesn't "fire". After doing some more research, I am thinking fuel pump and / or fuel pump relay. I hear some noise when I turn it on, but not really a buzzing. Is there a way to test the relay with a volt-meter/electrical tester? Where is that pressure test port (I read somewhere it is on the passenger side, but not sure where). What kind of tester do I need from Autozone or the like to check the pressure? I did try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and no luck. Thanks for your help! Kyrak

Hi all, Been a long time since I have visited due to things running pretty well until today. I was on my commute home in my 97 Boxster (48K miles) and had been driving for about 30 mins in city traffic. I turned right at a green light and shifted into 2nd and was accelerating. I think I heard a thud / thump and the engine completely died (but the dash lights stayed on like they would if you stalled it). I tried to restart it while I was rolling but no luck, so I was lucky to make it off the road and park it in a parking spot. The oil level and temperature were both fine. Now you hear the starter run, but it just won't turn over. I see all the lights and the radio / top etc works fine, and the starter actually runs (i.e. it makes the cranking noise). I checked all the fuses on the driver's side since my first thought was maybe fuel pump fuse. They were all fine, so I removed the engine cover and made sure the tube from the air filter to the IACV hadn't popped off. It looked fine, and I even tried unplugging the MAF, but still wouldn't turn over. Now for the interesting part. After my wife picked me up, I got my Elm code reader / digimoto laptop and hooked it up. It was giving me a Bus...Init error when I tried to read codes or look at anything really. I checked it on my wife's car and the code reader is working fine. So not sure where to start with the diagnostics and coming to the gurus for help :) My gut still says fuel pump since it died so suddenly in mid-operation, but I know they don't fail that often and the code reader situation has me wondering. Any thoughts? Kyrak

Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the Boxster....IT'S BACK! P1514 and P1551 again. Not sure where to go from here. Any advice? Kyrak

Well, I tried the historically ineffective "MAF cleaning" and so far so good, but have only driven for a few miles. I guess time will tell. I will update this post either way within a week or so. Kyrak

Well, yesterday I unplugged the connector to the MAF and drove around the block a few times. I was getting some pretty intense hesitation (almost like I took the throttle off) upon acceleration. The hesitation seemed to go away if I didn't give it much gas. Is this normal behavior without the MAF plugged in? If the MAF is only there to optimize fuel efficiency, I am not sure this behavior is consistent with MAF failure. The good news is my window regulator swap went with no problems (note to self, make sure to not close or open the door using the window). Kyrak

Well, won't I feel silly if I replaced the IAVC unnecessarily and it was the MAF. Yes, I have experienced the hesitation at 5K or so RPM under acceleration. The car also has had a K&N on it which I know can foul the MAF. If it ends up being the MAF, I will put a stock filter back in at the same time. I will be replacing a window regulator today, so will unplug the MAF at that time. Should I unhook the battery to reset the DME when I do this? If possible, I would like to drive it with the MAF unplugged for a few days to see if it prevents the stalling and the CEL. If it ends up being the MAF, where is the cheapest spot the get one online these days? I assume I need the 123 00 one? I have the security bits so I know I can replace it pretty easily. Thanks everyone for the help, much cheaper than the shop :) Kyrak

My foot is not as steady as yours, but hopefully this graph will do the trick. My readings certainly aren't anywhere near yours in your old post. Let me know what you think. Kyrak

The 8 and 10 % are the LT fuel trims that insite asked for. My MAF flow rate is at 5-6 which is within range (shown in the 2nd post). I am assuming that the IAVC was replaced correctly, but maybe the simple answer is either a bad replacement part or faulty installation. It was done by a shop I trust though. I asked them to replace it after researching and finding all my symptoms to be consistent with IAVC problems. Any other ideas? I can get some more O2 readings if that would help. Kyrak

Here ya go, it seemed like this was a weird spike so I screenshotted this set of readings. Kyrak

Once I reset the light, it typically comes back within 2-3 days or so. It seems if I am careful to not let the engine RPMs drop rapidly then it doesn't happen as much (the stalling). The wiring harness would certainly make sense since we already replaced the IACV. What is the easiest way to test the voltage to the IACV? Now that I have seen the above poster's O2 readings, mine seem to be somewhat normal alternating high and low. Kyrak

More sensor readings if needed.

Hey all, I have been having a problem with my 97 Boxster for a while now where it stalls out occasionally when you are coming to a red light and you put the clutch in. It is throwing P1551 (Idle Air Control Valve Closing Coil - Open Circuit), P1514 (Idle Air Control Valve Opening Coil - Open Circuit) and P1115 (Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Above Upper Limit). Based on all the research I have done, the symptoms, and the P codes, I had the IACV replaced, but the problem persists. It does seem like it doesn't happen until the car gets warmed up, but I am not 100 % sure. It also happens much more frequently when the A/C is on. My guess is now an O2 sensor, but wanted to get more expert advice than mine before buying more parts :) Here is a chart of my runtime O2 sensor readings at idle. Let me know what you think. Kyrak.

Hey all, I have pretty much isolated my problem to be the IACV. I am getting CELs 1514 and 1551 which are Idle Air Control Valve Opening Coil - Open Circuit and Close Circuit respectively. My symptoms are exactly http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...8-2CCF5E89EFE2} where you put the clutch in (like when slowing down for a stop light) and the car stalls. It happens regularly when the A/C is on and occasionally when it isn't. In any case, I am looking for a part number for a replacement IACV for a 1997 2.5L Boxster. Any suggestions about the best spot to buy one of these? Are these easy to self replace (like the MAF etc)? Any DIY docs floating around on this valve? Thanks in advance, Kyrak