Kanin

FBDO??? Sorry did not get that .... I may be making a fool out of my self but thought I would ask any way :) Finally got to test the car with the Varicam+ solenoids disconnected and it ran even worse than before. Maybe a wild guess but does any of you have some experiance if a bad flywheel with missing teeth could create this kind of problems? I still have the old original flywheel from th 2.5 engine. Will now investigate the MAF signal through the piggy back system and see if the output is right. I have also decided that I will be starting the 7.8 DME upgrade as it is very dificult to troubleshoot with the piggyback system. Now collecting all the parts I need and should hopefully be able to start the project next week. - Kanin

Hi, Yes checked and it did get the signal at about the right rpm when iddle. Why I thought it may be linked to mixture or MAF signal problem. However not sure what happens when on the road. I guess the easiest is to disconnect the variocam+ solenoids and see if it changes anything. Ok I will try that tonight probably a good way to eliminate them. The background is that the car was with a body shop for a month or so. I was getting a GT3 style bumper on the car. When I got it back it was like this. Not sure what happened. I have already changed the MAF sensor as I thought dust may have had something to do with it. - Kanin

Hi, Finally got the time to change the AOS. Also cleaned the throttle body and Idle control valve. Blue smoke is gone and the car is much more responsive however it did not help me with my original problem. It still looses power and exhaust starts popping as soon as I put load on it. It must be linked to Variocam+ but no idea what it could be. I Will try to check for air leaks again. Maybe MAF signal calibration as wayne suggested. If anyone has any suggestions I am open for those ...... - Kanin

Thanks for input Wayne - great article by the way it is in my favorites now :) I had the car running spot on untill this happenned. The MAF signal is modified thorugh a piggyback system and should as such at least go back to what it used to be. In any case I think I need to take this step by step and eliminate the problems I find. AOS first and then air leak as you suggested. Will keep you posted on progress. - Kanin

Hi again Thought I would give you all an update. After several attempts I have not been able to solve the problem. Even after changing the timing solenoid lift solenoid, MAF sensor and visit to the Porsche specialist. Yesterday night 1am in the morning after reading many threads here I stumbled on the AOS problems and thought I would check and guess what the hose between the AOS and Throttle Body is full of Oil. Ordering a new AOS and cleaning the intake tomorrow and hoping this solves it. In my case the symptoms were so different from what I have heard before. The power loss in the engine was drastic like hitting the rev limiter. When driving slow and easy no problems. As soon as I pushed it would almost loose all acceleration and power. I even had miss fires. In any case I am hoping this is it. I may have more than one problem but first things first. I am hoping I can confirm that the problem is solved in a couple of days. - Kanin

Hi Todd Quick question. Will the solenoids click even when taken off the car? thought I will take them off and check them. - Kanin

Hi Todd Thanks for quick response. If I remember correctly I think they are getting a +12V from the second relay. The piggy back activating grnd activates the second relay. When checking the solenoids they seamed to be getting the +12V when they are supposed to. This remind me I did not check the grnd on them so could be a problem with the grnd. Let me do some digging tomorrow and get back to you and I will also check that the solenoids are working. Kanin

Hi, I hope someone can help. Todd you still around? Under load engine power drops and it starts popping do not understand what is wrong. Alo no power with full throttle in low revs. Looked for the obvious: - MAF changed - No air leaks detected - Coil packs checked and changed any cracket - O2 sensors working - Changed the Cam Shaft sensor - Tried to change the variocam+ solenoids which did not have any effect running out of ideas what could it be? Thanks, Kanin

Yep...Tholyoak is the dude u want to talk to. He really hepled us at with our conversion..........there's not much he does'nt know. Kanin.

Hi, We have done this 3.6 conversion into our Boxster. Got good power out of it. Kanin.

Hi Guy's, Firstly, we have just completed a 3.6 996 conversion into a 1997 Boxster, its not that difficult at all. Yes, the 996 is e-gas and the boxster is cable operated but that easily taken care of by using a 3.4 non e-gas throttle body. But if ur boxster is egas, then you should'nt have any probs at all. As for the transmision, u do't need a 996 unit, you can use the 986 gearbox, it will mate-up perfectly but you will have to use the 986 flywheel and clutch. The are a few other mods that you need to do but no real biggies, all the parts needed are transfered over from the 986 motor and so on. You do use the orignal boxster harness for this conversion with miner modification, The real obstacle is getting the variocam+ to work, we used an external management moudule to operate the timing solenoids, u can however have a chat with a chap called "Tholyoak" from this forum, he has also completed a 3.6 conversion into his boxster but has developed a way to integrate the original 3.6 996 DME into the boxster. This guy really know's his stuff and has really hepled us through our project...top guy. the other thing, since your car is egas, I take it its a 2.7 or a 3.2. Our car was a 2.5, so in terms of the DME, we used a 996 3.4 unit, its the same part number as a post 98 986 2.5 dme except it is obviously flashed with the 3.4 file, we did this so we could operate the actuator for the resonance valve: 2.5 boxster don't have one. By the way, we originally swapped our 2.5 motor with an egas 3.2 before the 3.6 swap, so that is why we replaced our DME with a 3.4, just so we could activate the resonave valve and have better fueling and timing maps from the 3.4 file then the standard 2.5 DME. If we would have known that we were gonna do i 3.6 swap at somepoint, we would have just purchased a piggyback system, we could have also activated the resonace valve and sorted out the fueling and timing. Yours on the other hand, being a 2.7 or 3.2, will have the resonace valve therefore the DME is already programmed to activate this valve. So if I was in your shoes I would use a aftermarket piggyback system to sort out the timing and fueling maps for the variocam+, its easily done if u know what your doing.........is'nt that right Todd? :P The conversion is not too difficult to do at all but poduces unbelievable power, well worth the agro.

Hi, I meant if you were interested in selling the boxster? If you are planning a 3.4 conversion then that is probably the best route, we are in the middle of doing a 3.6 conversion in our boxster, should be up and running in the weekend. If I remember correctly, the main obstacle for the 2.7 and 3.2 conversions into a 2.5 boxster is the activation of the resonance valve. You need someone who can re-programme your original 2.5 DME with the 3.4 file, this is easily done with a porcshe system tester. Only post '98 boxter dme's can be reprogrammed, ours was a 1997 so we basically used a 3.4 996 dme, which is the same dme as the 2.5 boxsters, only difference being the fueling and timing files. if the car runs too rich with the 3.4 file once programmed then there is a quick fix to lean it off if needed. the other thing is that the 2.5 were throttle cable operated, the 2.7 and 3.2 is e-gas. you could replace the throttle body on the 2.7 or 3.2 with the one from the 2.5, will need a bit of modding or u could do what we did and was to use a 996 3.4 cable operated throttle. works perfect either way. the other thing would be the fuel return on the 2.5. if the 2.7 or 3.2 is a later engine then the chance are that it will not have a fuel return connection on the fuel rail. This is easily fixed but you will have to cross that bridge when you have the engine...........if u need to that is. I think that is pretty much it, all the other neccesary parts needed can be switched over from your 2.5, i.e exhaust, coolant hoses (if needed), wiring etc. Let me know about the car, if you are interested dude. thanks.

Hi there, I have done a 3.2s conversion into a 1997 2.5 boxster in the past. It is the same installation process as a 2.7. It is easily done but u do need a few things. do you already have the 2.7 engine? are you still interested in selling the dead 2.5 boxster as it is? thanks.

Hi Dude, We had the same decsion to make, we have a 1997 2.5 Boxster and were not too happy with the power it was pushing out. We were thinking of replacing it with a 996 but the boxster was in "as new" condition and had very low mileage. And clean 996's in similar condition are considerably more expensive to buy. In the end we got offered a very good deal on a 3.2 s boxster engine with only 18k on the clock. We ripped the 2.5 running gear out of the boxster and grafted the 3.2 in with a few mods. Car then produced 240 BHP on the rollers with the standard 2.5 headers and exhaust and I tell u it was like a different car. The car now has a lot more power and pulls effortlessly through the gears compared to the stock 2.5. It was well worth it and much cheaper than forking out for a decent 996. But now, we are lucky enough to get hold of a low mileage 3.6 996 engine :clapping: and have now started to convert the 3.2. The 3.2 has only been in the car for a few months but like u guy's said: if u want a 3.2 u could always go out and buy a 3.2 s. A 3.6, or even a 3.4, in a Boxster is always gonna be that little bit special! ;) If u do go down the route of a conversion then go for the 3.4 or even 3.6. We only went down the route of the 3.2 because we got a really good deal on the engine at that time. Good luck mate. Kanin

hi mate, saw your post, thought my input my help you out. Have you had the oil cooler checked for oil and water mixing? To diagnose possible head gasket failure's on cars, I use a cumbustion chamber leak detector from SNAP-ON. It's basically a chemical which, when mixed with coolant from your car, changes colour if combustion fumes are detected. If the chemical changes colour then I'm afraid it's not good news...some where combustion fumes are entering the cooling system which means it's either: blown headgasket crack in the cylinder block The snap-on part number is GDCT16. I've been using this for a while and has always been accurate. It should retail for around $100, which may be cheaper than paying a mechanic. hope this helps.

Hi, I found that but as I have upgraded to a 3.2L my 2.5L diagram did not help. Can anyone send me a picture of a 3.2L diagram from the lid? Regards, Kanin If you open up the engine lid, you'll find a vacuum diagram sticker next to the emissions statement sticker located on the left hand side of the lid. Hope that helps.

Hi All Need your help! Does anyone have a diagram over how to connect all the vacuum hoses correctly on a 3.2 2002 intake i.e. the vacuum lines to and from the throttle housing and resonance valve housing? Any help is much appreciated. I just want to make sure everything is correctly connected to get the most out of the swap Kanin

Hi Todd That should be possible. Lets discuss over e-mail. By the way what about your 3.4L. If the cost is not high shipping and you are not trying to get rich on the 3.4 I would really be interested in it? Hard to get these engines over here. Br, Kanin

Thanks Todd, I have gotten to exact same conclusion. Engine is now ready just waiting for new pins for the DME for the wire to the solenoid - they should be in on Monday. Engine is ready and got around the egas exactly as you explain. Using the 3.2 intake but using the 2.5 throttle body. Also had to get a custom adopter for the fuel rail for the return flow on the 3.2 fuel rail. Still using the 2.5 fuel pump - hopefully that will work. If it does not perform as it should I will change the 2.5 fuel pump. Will let you know on Monday :) Br, Kanin

Hi Todd I hope you can help. I am in the process of putting a 3.2L in to my 2.5 97. 2.5 is non egas and the 3.2 is egas. Almost done and in the last phase. Just a quick question if you could please help. A specialist advised on using the 2.5 injection system and inlet manifolds on the 3.2 engine but the 2.5 inlet manifold does not fit the 3.2 head. Can I use the 3.2 inlet manifold? What happens to the pipe that bridges the 3.2 manifold in the back. That pipe has another butterfly in it which is operated by a valve which is on the pipe it self. Because I am using the 2.5 DME and harness and the 2.5 did not have this valve. How is this going to affect the new set-up. Any idea's do I need to plumb this valve up somehow or can I leave it as it is. Any input would be appreciated. Br, Kanin

Hi Todd I am in the UK. I am assuming you are in the US - right? I guess it can not pay off to get it sent all the way. No idea what the cost is? Br, Kanin

Hi Todd I have been looking for a 3.4L engine for a while but can not get my hands on one. Maybe I will one of these days or now a 3.6 :). Quick question: did you use your old gearbox (2.5L 5gear gearbox) and flywheel or did you also upgrade the gearbox. If I remember correctly that is what you had on your 3.4L? Br, Kanin

Hi All quick check - anyone got experience with downgrading an eGas engine to fit in to a none eGas car (97, 2.5L boxster)? Any experience on the work or guides available? I know it is doable but not found any guides on it. Thanks for your help, Kanin

Hi There What happened was: I was driving on the highway about 60 miles an hour. Just before the incident I was going fast and had made a shift down to 3rd and was up to about 6000 rpm in 3rd - wanted to pass another car. However afterwards I was driving very nicely on the road as said about 60 miles an hour and suddenly heard the noise drove off the highway and stopped immediately and got a tow truck to transport the car home. After 2 day at home trying to understand what has happened I took it to the garage and they told me that the engine was gone and full of metal peaces inside. It never had any problems starting it after the first time I heard the noise - but it never sounded good and I did not drive in it. you could hear that there was something seriously wrong with it. So if you can drive yours it may not be the same problem even though it sounds like the same. The garage told me that it was not worth trying to fix it as it is very difficult to get parts and new ones are extremely expensive. So I found a new used engine and replaced it - cost me about $4000 for the whole excersise :(. I tried to get some help from Porsche as the car had only done 50k but no mercy from their side - they said it was out of warranty - so I had to pay for it my self. I was lucky to find a garage that had an engine and could do it for me fairly cheap. I did some research on this and there has been several engines that have gone like this. The grarage also told me that they had seen other boxsters with the same problem. Listening to the sound file it unfortunately does sound like the same. Kanin

Hi There You know what. Hate to tell you this and also hope for you that this is not the case. Your story sounds like mine. I had a similar experience with my 97 boxster and heard the metallic sound from within the engine. In my case it was unfortunately it was the engine that was gone. I could start it just like you are saying but with a lot of metallic cracking sound. As I said I hope you do not have the same problem. On mine it started with the bigend bearings going and ended with an engine replaced. Good luck. Kanin