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Everything posted by working4it

  1. Hey All, Every so often my hatch would not open or close correctly. So I ordered a new lock actuator (from PelicanParts) and wouldnt you know it the last time i used it the hatch wont unlock. I removed the inside plastric trim piece, disconnected the lever and with a screw driver tried to move the latch. It will move a little bit but will not unlock....any thoughts?
  2. My drivers side went bad and I replaced that my self. Not hard but just a pain in the .... Now about a year later the other side went (I had my indie shop do it this time) and they said both are supposed to be replaced at the same time but said it shouldnt cause any issue.
  3. I am embarrassed to say this but I cant be the only one asking this. I have the Durametric cable and I know it can do a lot more than just finding faults and clearing them. I am hoping we can get a list of functions/uses/definitions going for everyones use (example resetting adaptations, live logs and interpreting the data etc). I found 2 links which were pretty good for the basics... http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/electronics/p383-durametric-tutorial-part-1-3a-the-basics.html http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/electronics/p384-durametric-tutorial-part-2-3a-advanced-functions.html (From p
  4. Update #4 Indie shop called and the car is running now. They kept it another day just to make sure it would start. They said they traced the issue to a dead Cam Sensor Bank1 that was not throwing codes. Thats interesting since I changed that part out myself with a brand new one. Official porsche part too. The car is still throwing the air temp code. They said they swapped the MAF's cleared and the code came back. They checked out the plug/cord and it looked okay. Is there a way to reset the DME or something specific with my Durametric? I am picking it up this afternoon as i need to l
  5. Update#3 Just got off the phone with my Indie shop. Still nothing on my Cayenne. They verified injectors, verified electric/spark, verified compression, verified fuel/fuel pressure. No codes other than air/temp sensor. They "think" its an electric "timing" issue. They asked me to leave it so they can look into it. The tech is pretty good and only works on Porsches. He had his buddy from Hendrick Porsche come over and they supposedly looked at for over an hour and they were able to get it to backfire which leads them to think a timing issue. They said it does not look mechanical but ele
  6. Great question, don't know specifically. I will ask them. I do know they did mention that the plugs were wet after the multiple test of starting.
  7. Update#2 Well I towed my Cayenne to my indie shop and they started by testing the fuel pumps since they just replaced them. They tested fine. Then they did a fuel pressure test and they said it was great (static and something else I can't remember. I thought they said it was at 55?). Then they inspected the coils( version ending 08), plugs and tested current and end spark. All tested fine. Then they did a cylinder pressure test and all tested within specs accept cylinder 5 which was slightly low but within tolerances. The car will turn over but not start. I have them putting in new pl
  8. Update... I have been able to get all of the codes go away and psm message but have one left P0112 temp sensor. The cayenne will turn over but will not start. I have replaced the MAFs(both), pedal sensor. i need some thoughts on what to do next...if I don't figure this out soon i am going to let it roll down the hill into the lake.. 'either that or i am going to go into the poor house.....
  9. Yes, I am no longer throwing that code...Just be careful because of all the vacuum lines back their and remember to take your time i almost dropped the bolt a couple of times.
  10. Yes, when the alternator was put in we checked everything out and all were good. Nice and tight no corrosion.
  11. That's what I thought...I couldn't find any switch other than the unit itself. Now the question is if you replace it do you have to program it to the car
  12. I am absolutely going nuts....I am getting ready to push my pig off the cliff. My 04 s has been pretty good but lately I have been bleeding money with it. Recently I had a PSM workshop message had a bad battery( replaced both for good measures) and a bad alternator. Replaced them. Then I had oil pressure switch go bad, then I started blowing a fuse from a faulty fuel pump. Replaced them. Then I had a cam sensor go bad replaced it. (not all at once but over 6 months)Now I am getting a PSM failure message with the following faults and the car will only turn over but will not start. P2186
  13. Thought I would share this with everyone...I know the pictures arent the best but may help someone...I have been having a ton of issues lately on my04 S and all of a sudden. I have had to replace the alternator(which is liquid cooled), both batteries, oil pressure switch, fuel pumps, filters, and after all of that I got the p0011 cam sensor code. The first thing i did was change the oil since dirty oil will usually cause this fault but no luck. So i replaced the cam sensor B1. I left the intake on First Step remove air pump Remove Coil covers Disconnect venturi tube from back of engine
  14. Defiantly check for codes. I would also check the gas cap seal ring along with the check valve line.
  15. Update Okay, I cleared all codes checked the gateway and really couldn't find anything clear. I limped to my indie shop and they just let me know that they said its the primary fuel pump blowing a fuse and relay. In addition they said the o2 sensor is completely off line. They said due to these issues the psm was trying to compensate. He quoted me $1475 to replace the primary fuel pump, fuel filter, the secondary fuel filter since I didn't replace it when I changed out the pump a year ago, seal ring, relays, fuses, o2 sensor bank 2 before cat, reset and calibrate. I totaled up the parts
  16. Big has got a good point, I had clunking when stopping hard or on certain turns. Took a look and you can definitely see them cracked/torn.
  17. Sorry, I am using the Durametric Enthusiast version. I am by no means the expert when using it. The most I do with it is the "short test" to pull codes and use the "Clear all faults".
  18. Looked under the carpet everything looks good. Still getting 470 and 1314 dme
  19. Well, while driving home I got the PSM workshop message. After a couple of minutes of driving, when coming to a stop, it would go very slowly and then finally kick in. Once home, hooked up the durametric. Following codes 470 CAN comfort in signal wire operation 778 Steering signal sensor 1314 DME control module 819 air conditioning sensor open circuit 1336 can comfort off 470 can comfort off P0700. transmission control implausible signal P0050 heater control bank 2 sensor test not completed P2680 fuel pump control no signal P0011 cam position timing over P2186 throttle pedal impla
  20. Are you still getting the dipped beam error? If so, double check both wire harness connectors. I had to use a zip tie on both because they would wiggle loose or when I slid the headlight tray back in I think I loosened it. Additionally, when I get the error replacing the bulb, even when I thought it was a good one usually solves it.
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