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twsarch

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Everything posted by twsarch

  1. Temporary fix for the top, probably too late for your trip. Disconnect the motor from the top and move it manually. There are instructions somewhere in the forum to pop out the actuator bars.
  2. I got that, what is the value of such a car in this condition? I see a guy on e-bay trying to sell a stripped, burned out car (literally, as in it was on fire) with no wheels for almost $3K and another that runs but has problems for $4K?? what are these worth in non-running condition?
  3. I think it is priced as a roller, what is a roller price? If all else fails I can sit in it in my driveway making Vroom-Vroom sounds. I am a pretty decent shade tree mechanic as long as I am not in a hurry and as I won’t need to drive this thing I can take my time. I was planning taking the engine out to do just the heads if that what gets done. I am assuming the engine will not last as long after the intermix as it would have otherwise.
  4. I have a lead on buying a 2000 boxster S with an intermix problem. I am told the oil cooler has been ruled out and there was no catastrophic noise and it “is otherwise running fine”. Assuming it’s a cracked head, in a perfect world the engine needs to be rebuilt, but in my imperfect world of low finance, can the heads be removed and the rest of the engine be “flushed”? Then repair or replace the heads and go driving? If so can anyone recommend a flush procedure? If the damage is worse than a cracked head it will sit till I can afford to rebuild/replace the engine (Jake?). it is cheap enough to let it sit. I did this once before with a 4 cylinder ford (escort!), removed cracked head, filled with oil and drove the oil pump with a drill whale manually turning the engine over with a ratchet. Drain and repeat a few times. As far as I knew back then in the 80’s I made that procedure up. Drove that car 60K more miles until rust finished it (I was broke and in college when I did that, had 180K on it total).
  5. I guess my question on the pressure plate was not so silly after all. I can’t think of anyone that would replace the clutch w/o replacing the pressure plate. Sounds to me like the guy that did it owes you a flywheel now.
  6. I’m looking for a fixer upper to tinker with so a PPI doesn’t seem to make since for me, working on them is hopefully half the fun. I was fishing for guesses ahead of time so I can research them before going to look at it. My comment on cylinder sleeves is based on things I read regarding Porsche breaking one of their casting machines in ’99. To meet demand they allegedly started using previously rejected castings that they repaired, one of the repairs was cylinder sleeves inserted in place of the milled out defective cylinder. Guess they didn’t get the process right the first year and a lot of the sleeved slipped. Most of these have been warranteed by now but there is a danger of low mileage cars (like this one) still having the original engine. Of course this info was mostly from the internet so I can’t vouch for it accuracy. I consider the info is correct so I can assume the worst. If the price is low enough (this one may be) it may be worth re-building the engine.
  7. Thank you. I love the car. Update here... Drove it 700 mi home and it drives fine with clutch but there are "2 catch points" or friction points. I have the initial engagement at about 1/4 way from the floor and then the actual "grab" portion about 3/4 from the floor. The problem I have is that I rev the engine expecting the grab early near the floor and then "pop" it thinking it is fully engaged when it is not. Thus the burning clutch smell :( Does the clutch wear in to where those 2 points become really close together? When I "shortshift" it and just push it about 1/4 in from top and get disengagement but not all the way to the floor, I still get the same smell like the clutch didn't fully disengage to begin with. Am I missing something or is something wrong with how I am clutching? (or is the clutch having issues and what do I tell the dealer as I have never dealt with a Porsche dealer before) This car was owned by a porsche dealer mechanic but I have never dealt with a dealership directly before. Plus I am now in a different state than the dealer it was "serviced" at. Thank you for the help thus far. Harryrcb is correct. No break-in period for clutch. When you said dealer replaced clutch, perhaps didn't replace throw out bearing. Are they reputable? I would take it back. How many miles? Depending on the miles there are a few other things to service while tranny is out. RMS, IMS (retrofit), AOS, oil filler hose(s), dip stick tube to name a few. Not necessary to change all but easier to examine and then replace as needed from below. Yes they are reputable. Posibly. I had them replace IMS (LN version), rear main seal and clutch disc. He said he was just putting a new one in as mine had probably 10k left in the old one (since the tranny was out for the IMS). Car has 165k on it now. did they replace the pressure plate?? silly question but it wasn't in your list of replaced items.
  8. Still shopping for a cheep boxster, found one on e-bay near by (2 hour drive is near). The seller says it was sitting for a while and wouldn't start, so he/she is selling it. Supposedly it ran when they parked it in a garage and they say there was no strange or catastrophic noise last time it ran. They owned it new. Anyone care to hazard a guess as to why it wont start? They are telling me it gets fuel and spark to all cylinders. I cant get a clear answer to compression and leak down questions and cam timing wasn't looked at. Apparently they have it at a shop now. The “buy it now” price may be possible unless it needs new cylinder sleeves. I know 99 is probably the worst year for cylinder sleeve issues. If I buy it and it does need sleeves it will sit again until I can come up with the money for L&N
  9. Update: the dealer had this car fixed and listed it for sale with a clean title and no accident listed on car-fax. If I remember correctly they were asking about $15K. it did sell but I don’t know for how much
  10. Greetings. I am still shopping for a car I can afford. I am going to look at one that supposedly has a bad intercooler and has intermixed (yea, I know it could be something else much worse, cracked head, slipped sleeve etc.). I always assume an engine rebuild is in order after such an event but I figure it couldn’t hurt to ask what people think about cleaning out the engine and ways to do it, may consider even if it’s a cracked head. Same for the coolant circuit. Thanks
  11. Thanks for the replies. I am on a tight budget and this will have to be an entirely DIY project including the PPI. I expect rust on manifold bolts and such on any car but like mike said, I haven’t heard anyone talk about rust after over 8 months of lurking in various forums.
  12. I have been keeping an eye out for a deal on a 986 and been doing a bit of research as to problems with the car. I found lots of info about the engine problems, thin body sheet metal relating to the convertible top operation on the earlier cars and an assortment of electrical issues. I haven’t come across anyone mentioning rust, is this not a problem with these cars? I live in NY State and I suspect if I get a car it will be from somewhere around here too, the land of the salted winter road. I can see that most 986’s could be garaged for the winter but it would be my luck to get the one that was driven every winter of its life (I intend to drive it in the winter with minus size snows). Any input would be great, thanks.
  13. I think you will find that it is the security computer in the car that goes to sleep after 5 days for so .... not the key. The key does not know how long its been since it was used to unlock the car. Yes, the car stops responding to the remote after a certain time and you have to manually insert the key in the ignition to reset the time period, and obviously the door to get in. I had this happen when someone wanted me to pick them up at the airport in their boxster. I got there early so I read that part of the owner’s manual to pass the time.
  14. I am sure this car had serious problems, intermix to be specific and I am assuming it’s D-chunked. I was figuring in the cost of sending the half’s to LN engineering and was going to take Jake Raby’s M96 class. I did not get this car but am continuing to look; I am currently looking at one with the engine out that is defiantly D-chunked. FYI, I have some engine building experience with less complicated stuff, Chevy small blocks and the like and I have helped swap an engine in an air cooled 911 once (as well as an old beetle) so I have some clue, small as it may be as to what I will be getting into. It has been decades since I did any of this stuff. From the financial end of things I will have to spread the cost out over a year or two ….. or three, about how long it will take me to do this type of project anyway. The plan with this one was to get the car and Jakes class first, tear it down after the class and send to LN, then save up more for parts and do a bit at a time as cash and free time allow. Plan B: if during the class I decide I have no chance of doing the engine myself, I would buy another one (Raby currently has a used one with rebuild heads and the IMS retrofit for $8K or so, place in California has rebuilt stuff for $6K and up) Crazy plan I know.
  15. Hi, I am shopping for a used Boxster and can’t afford ready to drive examples. I am going to look at a ’01 that doesn’t run and has been sitting in a shed for 3 years. The battery is most defiantly dead, how do you open the doors with a dead battery? The windows won’t go down to clear the top, should it be just sort of forced? I know how to open the front trunk but how do you open the rear? Do I need to bring a battery just to get into the thing? Thanks
  16. I am shopping for a used Boxster. The seller of a ’98 says the airbag light comes on intermittently. Any thoughts? They also say the return spring in the ignition switch is weak and you have to rotate it back by hand after starting, no big deal for me but it would be good to know if this is an easy fix or not. Thanks
  17. Yea, it may be a good thing after all. I now the engines in these are iffy and if I got a lower priced higher mileage car that I could possibly afford, I think I would change the IMS bearing myself and just drive it and hope for the best, after all this will basically be a toy and if it blows it will have to sit a while. I will pretty much expect the engine to go at some point and to be ready; I have been exchanging email with Jake Raby about engine options. good info to have if I find one with a bad engine from the start too. If I find one like that tomorrow I can get one of his “prepped and inspected” used engines (about $8K more or less depending) and send him the one from the car as a core. This can take all winter if it needs to.
  18. There are a couple “professional” versions of the Durametric that are not limited to number of cars, cost more of course.
  19. So close but yet so far. I could have obtained this car for $6K, and put just over $2K in parts into it, and I tracked down all the parts as far as I can tell. This is not including paint, but I would have driven it with mismatched colors if I had to, at least for a while “red-neck Porsche”? But unfortunately my wife isn’t on board with the project so that’s that. Too bad, the car had practicality brand new Michelin pilots on it too. Rats.
  20. I was wondering, I never drove any Porsche in bad weather and as you know I am trying to buy one. 15 or 20 years ago I didn’t have a place to work on cars so I was going to use a friend’s garage. He had a modified trans-am at the time, the thing made over 400 HP and depending on the gears in the rear would hit 200 MPH. When we tried to back it out of his garage so I could get my car in to work on it those big fat performance tires hit 3” of snow they just spun, it was going nowhere. It was just as easy to push the car with the engine off as on. My car was a ford escort, it was fine in the snow, had snow tires. I looked at the banged boxster today and was talking to the owner of the dealer. He agrees it is worth between $5 and $7K as it is. It needs a power steering pump in addition to the body work. If my wife gives me the OK I will make him an offer starting with $5K and I think I will go up to $6200 or so. I think my wife never thought it would go this far and is having second thoughts, I am waiting for her to call. The seller sent the car off to a body shop to get it fixed, that’s actually where I looked at it today. He says I have until they order the parts some time Monday to make an offer. The guy at the body shop says the tub is straight and it’s all bolt on stuff.
  21. Thanks for the advice. I have been looking around for others. It looks to me like the tub is straight but I have been looking for a shop that will put it up on a jig for me, so far I cant find one that will do it unless they do all the work, its all or nothing. The appeal of this one to me is if I can get it for a cheap price I can collect parts over the winter as I find them and spread out the cost. The first part will be the radiator assembly, I found one with the bracket and AC condenser. I would do that one first just so I can move the thing around my driveway. But anyway, this one is not looking as good as it was a few days ago.
  22. Unfortunately my wife never wanted a Porsche. “You have money for an unpractical car? We need a dining room set” we don’t even have a dining room, eat-in kitchen. We are kind of broke but if you waited till you could afford everything you will never get it. I took another look at the car last night in the dark and started it up for a bit. It looks like the radiator bracket didn’t even get damaged, a little hard to tell with the damaged condenser and radiator stuck to it. I hope I didn’t run it too long in case the coolant is empty, it was leaking some. Just waiting on the title to see what state that is in to start haggling with the seller. They want $9950, I think it is worth $7000 tops with a clear title, I’ll start at $5500 (if my wife will give me the $$). The interior is a bit rough, looks like the previous owner had a dog that needed nails trimmed.
  23. If I buy the car I was going to do a Fluorescent UV Dye Penetrant Crack test on the suspension components and mounting points on the hit side. Kits for that cost something like $60 plus a UV light (I already have a UV light from the last time). One kit should do one suspension corner. It’s not a lab test but better than an educated guess. If something is cracked, I’ll have to replace it. I am chasing down the title now. The car is at a used car dealer; as far as I can figure they got it with a “lot” of cars and didn’t really want it, I am not sure and a bit suspicious. They don’t have the title yet. I am almost hoping it is a salvage title, if so I can bargain the price down more, at the moment I can’t really afford any of this so it may make or break the deal. I see an opportunity to obtain a car I always wanted on the cheap so I am investigating giving it a try. Except for the hit it’s a pretty clean 2001 car with 51K miles on it. I could never afford one like this without the damage. I am hoping “sweat equity” on my part will make owning a car like this possible. Anyway, a salvage title will only add about $300 to the cost of getting it registered here in NY State and will require a trailer trip to a state inspection station. It will make it worth less if and when it’s time to sell it but I am not trying this to make a buck, I want a Porsche to drive to work on nice days. My commute includes twisty mountain roads along the Hudson River that were made for this car, and I wanted some sort of Porsche since I was 9 years old.
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