shyster77

Front passenger side, from right behind the condenser (I thought) Loren. This is a S - I believe it has 3?

Loren - the coolant tank was replaced for a leak, a few months ago - the leak now confirmed is coming from the front of the car.

Thank you again for your prompt thoughts, gentlemen. I took it to my mechanic today and when he was charging the freon, the coolant started to leak again (there is no leak otherwise). The leak was originating from under the front bumper near one radiator - he felt there may be a bad hose or o-ring there but that can only be confirmed after he takes the bumper off. It will another day when he can do this. He felt this is not a typical repair on the Boxster - he runs a Porsche only place and has over 30yrs of experience on them. Have you heard of this kind of issue? The compressor on this car was replaced by him - 3 yrs ago - though I doubt this issue would have been exacerbated by it.

Thank you very much for the prompt feedback, gentlemen. I was traveling and so couldn't respond back sooner. The coolant leak seems quite sporadic since it hasn't occurred, since that day. But the AC's cooling is almost none now. The compressor kicks in when switched on (as deduced from the rpm increase upon turned on) but, the air feels no different than without the compressor. I suspect there may be a freon leak in the system - is the refill process to help determine a freon leak a DIY or should I consult an AC specialist - to diagnose the leak and fix it?

After a bit more research, is that the freon that I see on my garage floor? The compressor kicks in normally. Any thoughts?

Boxster-mates, I need your insights here. On the drive back this evening - 111F in Phoenix - the AC cooling was low. I also felt a bit of squeal coming from the behind the dashboard when the compressor was running - a mechanical-ish squeal. The engine temperature was near high 190s. After I parked the car, noticed the green coolant spots - not many or large - two or so (I've attached some photos). Some history on the replacements so far, 1) 7/2009 - AC compressor was replaced 2) 7/2011 - Cracked coolant reservoir was replaced. I don't see any coolant under the tank (as in attached photo). Is my compressor again coming in for a replacement? What is the connection with the drops of coolant? Please help :huh: Thank you, Soaking-in-Phoenix

I hear you, Gentlemen - I was able to push it out for a year since the same time last year - will plan to have this replaced shortly. I got my $3 worth for the lubricant with over 365 days of no noise :drive:

Thanks for the thoughts, Mills. ElectriCT - I felt the noise came from around this region too. Is there any special lubricant that can help eliminate any possible dryness here - I've tried the CRC Heavy Duty Silicone Lubricant - hasn't helped much. Appreciate your responses.

Thanks for the pointer, dghii - I got the door removal tools from Harbor Freight last week and plan to take a stab at this soon. Appreciate this idea. Good point, mikefocke - I was wondering if there is way to ensure the airbag stays where it is - this helps :)

Seems that way, Mills. My mechanic had it on the lift and sprayed down in/around the bushing. The creaking went away for a while and now is back - the weird thing is, it feels so during a run and when it is stopped for a bit. It bothers me when it sounds that way at low speeds. Any thoughts on how to get rid of it for good - without a complete replacement?

Ross, This sound is back on again - on the same side. I tried injecting gear lube into the lower rubber boot that is close to the wheel as well as sprayed silicone lubricant in/around the spring area and all joints near the wheel. It feels noiseless until it goes over the bumps and then the noise stay for sometime. Any other ideas or other areas that I should be lubricating here? Appreciate your help again. Thanks!

Thank you very much, Gents! Let me get hold of the panel popper and report back. Do you happen to know the part number for the spring? I couldn't find it on Pelican Parts. Appreciate your prompt responses here. Cheers!

Fellow Boxster-mates, I'm curious about this recent wear and (hopefully not too much of) tear - The driver side door handle felt like it snapped out and no longer has the spring back motion but the window moves down and up, when the handle is pulled back and pushed forward. The issues are - during driving, the handle tends to move back and this causes the window to slide down (as if the door was opened) and also when the door is closed from the outside, it tends to make the handle move, makes the window to be down and leaves that gap between the sill and the window too. I'm attaching a couple of photos to show how the handle stays when the door is opened. Would I have to replace the door handle mechanism, to get back the spring back motion of the handle? Does the door panel need to come off? Appreciate your insights here, Cheers!

Good point, odix. I just checked the Units for Consumption and it is checked for MPG (US). What is interesting is that the Consumption was showing to be 17.8mpg when I refilled and the actual consumed was 16.31mpg, i.e. the difference is getting closer than, what it showed before at 18.8-19mpg for the consumption, even though the actual remains almost consistent. The difference still baffles me...

Interesting, mcbit500! Did some research and apparently the computer usually logs 2-3 miles under actual in general but allegedly Porsche computers are near -.5mpg to the actual. Have you found out why yours is the other way?

Greetings Cayenne-mates, I'd been experimenting with a few styles of driving on an 2006 S, and I find that, while the actual gasoline consumed (as indicated by the miles drives/gallons filled) hovers around 15.8-16.5 (with almost 50/50 Highway/City relaxed driving), the computer (as indicated by the Main Menu>Vehicle Info>Consum) seems to quoting 18.5-19 (as in attached). I usually fill up x gallons and compare the calculations - is this why? Should a few full tanks be driven, before they both will coincide? I've never owned a car with a computer that can show mpg, hence curious on the discrepancy here. Any ideas? Cheers,

Don - this makes total sense! :clapping: Noticed the sound today and also saw that the tiny lamp in the headlight and the side marker were lit - even after the car was locked. Will look out for this the next time! :unsure:

Folks, I'd been noticing this for the past few days - happens intermittently but when I turn off the ignition and open the door - the sound that typically comes from when you drive without your seat belt, comes on but stays constant. The sound goes off when the door is closed. It is almost like when the ignition is on (and not the engine) and a door is opened. Have you seen this before? Any insights are much appreciated. Thanks a bunch!

Both windows not working at the same time, insinuates a central issue somewhere - unless of course, real bad luck and two motors or regulators are out, at once! Do the windows lower when the doors are opened? If yes, regulators should be good. Mine did. Do the windows lower when the convertible latch is undone? If not, bad motors/bad wires/bad window buttons is all I can come up with. Mine didn't, which led to the electrical issue identification. Try swapping out the (C3 and D1) fuses for other ones, check battery charge, battery disconnect and reconnect after a few mins and press down the close end of the window buttons for a few seconds, check microswitch at the latch (using a pen, to see if it pulls down the windows) - some of the checks that I came across my research while debugging this one. Hope this helps. The drivers side window lowers and raises straight away when you open the door handle (interior + exterior). If you hold the handles open, it stays lowered. The passenger side window stays down until the door is closed. The windows don't move at all when the top goes down. Nothing happens at all. I might try and replace that switch... I have ordered 1 replacement dock lock mechanism to see if that fixes any issues. The window switches do nothing. Are you saying that if I unpress the little button where the convertible top latches in, the windows should drop? (sorry, they have never worked!). Thank you! Hi - sorry I had typed a response but for some reason had been posted. Your drivers side window behavior once hit me too - it may be a faulty regulator (cos that ensures the movement of the window when the door handle is pulled or when the convertible is unlatched) or in my case, it was a misaligned regulator. But to me, it would be a minor inconvenience though - <_< Eliminating that as a point issue, since your passenger window moves down/up when the door is opened, all your internal lighting work (reading light, light on the doors which illuminate when the doors are opened, too?

Both windows not working at the same time, insinuates a central issue somewhere - unless of course, real bad luck and two motors or regulators are out, at once! Do the windows lower when the doors are opened? If yes, regulators should be good. Mine did. Do the windows lower when the convertible latch is undone? If not, bad motors/bad wires/bad window buttons is all I can come up with. Mine didn't, which led to the electrical issue identification. Try swapping out the (C3 and D1) fuses for other ones, check battery charge, battery disconnect and reconnect after a few mins and press down the close end of the window buttons for a few seconds, check microswitch at the latch (using a pen, to see if it pulls down the windows) - some of the checks that I came across my research while debugging this one. Hope this helps.

Solved! It was a fuse, after all - C3 which covers internal lighting and the power windows(!). The confusing part was cos the fuse diagram listed D1 for Power Windows and that looked fine. Now the little fella can actually breathe in the 1xxF outside! Whew! :beer:

No luck with fiddling with the ignition switch, Dale. Checked with my mechanic - first of a kind situation for him (surprised for someone who works on Porsches for the past 35 yrs) I mean - really? :soapbox:

Dale - This insight is very helpful. Just got back from the battery shop and the battery is alright. Let me investigate your view point further.

Problem just got even more interesting, 1) Door lights (the ones that light up when the doors are open) aren't working 2) Center reading light isn't working either. Clearly the problem is coming down to electrical. Two questions, if you would help here, 1) Can a weak battery disable functioning of certain electrical components? 2) Is there is a central relay of sorts that will need to be replaced that can take care of these three non-functioning components (Power windows, door lights, center reading light)? Appreciate your thoughts, very much, folks!

Just found out that the windows don't slide down when the top is active too..two window motors going bad at the same time??