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shyster77

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Everything posted by shyster77

  1. Thanks for the thoughts, folks. I've decided to have the work done and the car is in the shop for this. I was half tempted to sell this, after having had it for almost 8 years, and pick up a 2005 911. Though held back, since while the 997 felt more precise and noticeably quicker than my 986 S, A turbo down the road would be an apt upgrade. Until then, more miles on my 986 S. :)
  2. Makes sense, zodman. That anagram is quite creative. I was able to get under the car today to take a photo of where the leak may be possibly around, I know - I should have cleaned it up first but the shiny oil remnant is from last night's leak, - does this help pinpoint to a possible type of leak, IMS/RMS/something else? I was quoted 2.7K for everything which doesn't seem pricey then. While I'm ok with the replacement - the clutch just doesn't slip and it shifts like its on butter, so wondering if this may be something else. Thanks, V
  3. Thanks for the quick response, zodman! This helps. I presume that play loss may happen quickly? The oil leak literally showed up today. My mechanic quoted me with a new flywheel in the replacement, so that's good to know to have that in too. On a different note, the quote in your signature is deep! :thumbup:
  4. Boxster-mates, I did end up with a decent size oil leak, this morning. At the shop, when inspected underneath, it does seem to come from near where the transmission connects the motor. Per my mechanic, there were no metal pieces in the filter when the oil was changed at 130K miles - and it may be unlikely that the IMS may be going bad by the current mileage of 134.5K. While I don't experience slippage when shifting, does it make sense to bite the bullet and get the clutch, upgraded IMS, RMS and all of the required components replaced at this point. My mechanic recommended that I drive it for another 3k miles and see how the oil spill continues before scheduling for the replacements along with the oil change. Would I be risking the motor in any way by doing so? Also how much should the total cost come to, if done at an Indy shop? Thanks for your thoughts, V
  5. It was coolant, Maurice. :thankyou: What was interesting was that within a day after I posted the spills, I got a CEL with a P0455. I strongly suspected the aftermarket fuel cap, replaced it with an OE one and erased the CEL. So far no CEL or these spills. I have a new coolant tank as of a year ago and no spillage of any sort until I got this aftermarket fuel cap. Could an EVAP leak cause a spillage of the coolant? or am I connecting two disparate events... Regards, Vish
  6. Will do this evening, JFP - spotted these on the way to work, so wondered if this color may be an indicator. Googling up that color - that could be transmission fluid or coolant, since I always felt oil would be darker and more viscous. But mine is a manual so transmission fluid would not be applicable or coolant since I thought it would be green. The color is more like pinkish-red. Vish
  7. Dear Porsche-mates, I noticed these two spots towards the rear of the car, as in attached, when I moved the car this morning. They seemed fresh and felt a bit viscous, though don't feel oily. The car starts with some smoke, from a very cold start, though that smoke disappears very quickly. It runs and idles fine though. The only change that was done to it before these spots showed up, was that I had to replace the OE fuel cap with an aftermarket cap from Autozone. I was unable to clear for emissions for registration with the OE cap, since it had cracks in the rubber seal and failed the equipment test. The car is a 2000 S with 134K miles on the original clutch. Clutch shifts fine. Appreciate your insights on what this could be... Cheers, Vish
  8. Windshield tech resealed it with the Porsche molding, sourced from the local dealer, last week. A few test drives later, the shrill/whistle sound is confirmed to be no longer present. Yet another case closed, successfully! :drive: Thank you for your insights again, everyone! :cheers:
  9. Update on this: Windshield company tech listened to the video of the shrill/whistle sound that I had captured during a drive, felt the rubber molding on the windshield and almost instantly, diagnosed it to be due to the air getting trapped/moving under/around the molding. Per the tech, if the windshield was re-seated deeper with the existing after-market molding, there is a likelihood that the sound may go away, but a better longer-term resolution would be remove the windshield, reseat appropriately, and seal cohesively with a Porsche molding. So he has ordered one and hope to have it taken care of, by early next week. rprieto, Richard and RFM - you guys were dead-on the root cause! :thumbup:
  10. Makes sense, RFM. Had a call with my insurance company who did the windshield replacement and hopefully should have it fixed soon. Looks like they are going to remove the windshield and reseal it, per the conversation. Will close this thread once this is confirmed to fix the issue. Thank you very much for your prompt responses here!
  11. Thanks, RFM! Would this kind of silicone seal work or are there specialized ones for windshield seal? http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex--clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant-detail
  12. That sound is still there. :( I did check the rubber seal on the outside - it is firmly stuck to the windshield and the body - no movement anywhere. Would using some kind of insulation on the inside - where there is a gap between the glass and the body, help here? Any other ideas on how to muffle this? Thanks again, everyone!
  13. Thanks again for that pointer, rprieto - I starting running my fingers over the panel that covers the top of the windshield in the inside of the car, feeling for any movement and Voila! - the area just a bit further away from the center (as to be read from the mirror area), seemed to have moved out a bit, snapped back into place, under a little pressure. I suspect the windshield installer may have had something to do with this dislocation. I did a couple of runs after this and so far, that sound hasn't appeared. Will keep you all posted after a few more runs to see if it is completely gone. That makes sense on the leak insulation, Richard. Let me continue a few more runs post this panel snap-in. If the sound reappears, I will pursue the masking tape approach which, I assume will be in the inside of the car.
  14. Interesting finding there, rprieto! Let me check on that - ironically, there have been a few downpours in the Phoenix area in the past week and no leaks observed in the windshield area. I hear you on the "not bothered by it" too, since for now, it seems to remind me to watch my speed but my concern is more if/when it may start to show up at lower speeds.
  15. Thanks, Thom. The sound seems to be present with/wo Ac, so I'm not sure if it may be refrigerant related. It is a 2000 986 S, Richard. Interesting that you should mention a loose windscreen trim - my windscreen was replaced a few months ago due to an expanding crack from a rock chip. I can't recall if I have been hearing that sound since then but it only appears at >=85 mph, so can't recall driving it that much for sometime, until I noticed this a month or so ago. Would it help to insulate the insides of that trim in the area on top of the mirror or all around? Should the trim be insulated on the outside too? The sound seems to be around that mirror area. Thanks for the confirmation, Bill.
  16. Adding a few more cross-checks here, 5) Turned off cell phone and Bluetooth headset to eliminate any interference even, if the radio is off. 6) Taped over the two vents near the fuel cap to eliminate any escaping vapors leading to the sound. The sound still exists at higher speeds. Just curious, if any internal rattles within the dash, I can hear some rattling at really low speeds - along the lines of coming to a stop at a light, be more pronounced at higher speeds?
  17. Dear Boxster-mates, I'd appreciate your help very much, here. Lately, I have been experiencing this shrill sound when the car moves at higher speeds, and disappears when the speed lowers. I looked up whistling sound, even though the sound feels more like a loose bearing spinning at high rpm, on the forums and cross-checked the following, 1) Check front hood level from bumper - hood is lower than the bumper. Should they be even? 2) Check dash trimmings - all seem to be in place. 3) Aligned and taped down the three plastic pieces which cover the battery and cabin filter so that they don't move. 4) Lowering the window or driving when the top down, doesn't seem to change the appearance of the sound or its disappearance. It seems to be only speed induced. I have a 7 second mp4 file of this sound but am unable to upload to the site. Any insights on what to check next? Many thanks in advance!
  18. Gents, Got back the Box after an AC issue fix. Just curious - is the ball joint replacement a DIY? If yes, can you point me to some instructions here. Is this the part that requires replacement too? http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=997-331-045-04-M80&catalog_description=Control%20Arm%20Link%2C%20Rear%20Suspension%20-%20Rear%20Lower%2C%20Left%20%26%20Right%2C%20each%2C%20Boxster%2FBoxster%20S%20%281997-04%29
  19. The desert heat dried it out, wvicary, not before the battery was drained. Thanks to the little fella in the garage, jumped it and have been able to drive it since then. I did find that triple-square torx at an O'Reilly near-by, so will come handy, if I need to replace the battery.
  20. Dear forum mates, This just occured a couple of hours ago - my Cayenne usually is parked with a bit of the window down for the ventilation from the desert heat, when a recent thunderstorm came out of nowhere and torrented on the vehicle. Some of the water must have logged under the "headlight beam and turn signals" switch and the headlight is behaving erratically. The high beam comes on and off - even when the turn signal is used or simply when the car is driving. A few questions on this regard. 1) Can I airdry over this area and eliminate the issue or is this switch toast? 2) How can I take apart the steering column to get to the area of the switch? 2) I've never gotten to the battery since I've had this car but how do I get to this, so that I can disconnect the battery? Appreciate your prompt thoughts - I can't believe how this rain got me by surprise and left my car in this unforunate state. Thank you,
  21. Sounds good, Maurice. Are the recharge instructions quite standard for any car or are there specifics that I will need to follow for the Boxster S? The leak actually only happens, during the recharge and I'm hoping to use this to locate the source, otherwise the coolant doesn't leak. Yes - I can't wait to get the car back on the road, with air. :drive:
  22. Thank you, Maurice - I will hose them down, first thing tomorrow morning then. The coolant leak began evident, when my mechanic was pumping in the freon, though the bumper was not off at that time. Should I get a freon (or) compressed air kit to simulate the same? Where can I find one, if yes?
  23. Thanks to a cooler day here - I was able to sweat a little less and get the front bumper off :) Here is what I found - there is coolant fluid over the airduct for the central condenser/radiator and residue on the screw here and around the front part of the passenger side condenser area. Also - since I've got the condensers and radiators visible - would it be alright to hose them down? I've removed most of debris with a brush but there is still some stuff in between. Appreciate your suggestions here, Loren.
  24. Sounds good, Loren. The coolant was consistently leaking when the freon was being pumped in - it seemed like the pressure from the latter when the compressor was on, was causing the former. Will look into removing the front bumper and then report back. The desert heat isn't helping looking forward to going to the garage until later in the evening.
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