Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

shyster77

Members
  • Content Count

    92
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About shyster77

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Porsches, Computers, Working out, Books and Wine.

Profile Fields

  • From
    Phoenix, AZ, USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Porsche Boxster S
    2006 Porsche Cayenne S
  • Future cars
    2005 Porsche 911
  • Former cars
    2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT
  1. Thanks for the thoughts, folks. I've decided to have the work done and the car is in the shop for this. I was half tempted to sell this, after having had it for almost 8 years, and pick up a 2005 911. Though held back, since while the 997 felt more precise and noticeably quicker than my 986 S, A turbo down the road would be an apt upgrade. Until then, more miles on my 986 S. :)
  2. Makes sense, zodman. That anagram is quite creative. I was able to get under the car today to take a photo of where the leak may be possibly around, I know - I should have cleaned it up first but the shiny oil remnant is from last night's leak, - does this help pinpoint to a possible type of leak, IMS/RMS/something else? I was quoted 2.7K for everything which doesn't seem pricey then. While I'm ok with the replacement - the clutch just doesn't slip and it shifts like its on butter, so wondering if this may be something else. Thanks, V
  3. Thanks for the quick response, zodman! This helps. I presume that play loss may happen quickly? The oil leak literally showed up today. My mechanic quoted me with a new flywheel in the replacement, so that's good to know to have that in too. On a different note, the quote in your signature is deep! :thumbup:
  4. Boxster-mates, I did end up with a decent size oil leak, this morning. At the shop, when inspected underneath, it does seem to come from near where the transmission connects the motor. Per my mechanic, there were no metal pieces in the filter when the oil was changed at 130K miles - and it may be unlikely that the IMS may be going bad by the current mileage of 134.5K. While I don't experience slippage when shifting, does it make sense to bite the bullet and get the clutch, upgraded IMS, RMS and all of the required components replaced at this point. My mechanic recommended that I drive it for another 3k miles and see how the oil spill continues before scheduling for the replacements along with the oil change. Would I be risking the motor in any way by doing so? Also how much should the total cost come to, if done at an Indy shop? Thanks for your thoughts, V
  5. It was coolant, Maurice. :thankyou: What was interesting was that within a day after I posted the spills, I got a CEL with a P0455. I strongly suspected the aftermarket fuel cap, replaced it with an OE one and erased the CEL. So far no CEL or these spills. I have a new coolant tank as of a year ago and no spillage of any sort until I got this aftermarket fuel cap. Could an EVAP leak cause a spillage of the coolant? or am I connecting two disparate events... Regards, Vish
  6. Will do this evening, JFP - spotted these on the way to work, so wondered if this color may be an indicator. Googling up that color - that could be transmission fluid or coolant, since I always felt oil would be darker and more viscous. But mine is a manual so transmission fluid would not be applicable or coolant since I thought it would be green. The color is more like pinkish-red. Vish
  7. Dear Porsche-mates, I noticed these two spots towards the rear of the car, as in attached, when I moved the car this morning. They seemed fresh and felt a bit viscous, though don't feel oily. The car starts with some smoke, from a very cold start, though that smoke disappears very quickly. It runs and idles fine though. The only change that was done to it before these spots showed up, was that I had to replace the OE fuel cap with an aftermarket cap from Autozone. I was unable to clear for emissions for registration with the OE cap, since it had cracks in the rubber seal and failed the equipment test. The car is a 2000 S with 134K miles on the original clutch. Clutch shifts fine. Appreciate your insights on what this could be... Cheers, Vish
  8. Windshield tech resealed it with the Porsche molding, sourced from the local dealer, last week. A few test drives later, the shrill/whistle sound is confirmed to be no longer present. Yet another case closed, successfully! :drive: Thank you for your insights again, everyone! :cheers:
  9. Update on this: Windshield company tech listened to the video of the shrill/whistle sound that I had captured during a drive, felt the rubber molding on the windshield and almost instantly, diagnosed it to be due to the air getting trapped/moving under/around the molding. Per the tech, if the windshield was re-seated deeper with the existing after-market molding, there is a likelihood that the sound may go away, but a better longer-term resolution would be remove the windshield, reseat appropriately, and seal cohesively with a Porsche molding. So he has ordered one and hope to have it taken care of, by early next week. rprieto, Richard and RFM - you guys were dead-on the root cause! :thumbup:
  10. Makes sense, RFM. Had a call with my insurance company who did the windshield replacement and hopefully should have it fixed soon. Looks like they are going to remove the windshield and reseal it, per the conversation. Will close this thread once this is confirmed to fix the issue. Thank you very much for your prompt responses here!
  11. Thanks, RFM! Would this kind of silicone seal work or are there specialized ones for windshield seal? http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex--clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant-detail
  12. That sound is still there. :( I did check the rubber seal on the outside - it is firmly stuck to the windshield and the body - no movement anywhere. Would using some kind of insulation on the inside - where there is a gap between the glass and the body, help here? Any other ideas on how to muffle this? Thanks again, everyone!
  13. Thanks again for that pointer, rprieto - I starting running my fingers over the panel that covers the top of the windshield in the inside of the car, feeling for any movement and Voila! - the area just a bit further away from the center (as to be read from the mirror area), seemed to have moved out a bit, snapped back into place, under a little pressure. I suspect the windshield installer may have had something to do with this dislocation. I did a couple of runs after this and so far, that sound hasn't appeared. Will keep you all posted after a few more runs to see if it is completely gone. That makes sense on the leak insulation, Richard. Let me continue a few more runs post this panel snap-in. If the sound reappears, I will pursue the masking tape approach which, I assume will be in the inside of the car.
  14. Interesting finding there, rprieto! Let me check on that - ironically, there have been a few downpours in the Phoenix area in the past week and no leaks observed in the windshield area. I hear you on the "not bothered by it" too, since for now, it seems to remind me to watch my speed but my concern is more if/when it may start to show up at lower speeds.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.