tabasco

Can you post some pictures, and maybe some dimensions. Sorry for the delay, I finally took some pics tonight. I used is a 1.5" x 3" PVC coupler. The one I have is made by Charlotte, I bought it at Lowes. I put it in the lathe, bored the small end to 50mm so that it would fit on the lathe (slightly under 50 actually so that it would fit snug), and faced the big end (just removed the taper and made it perfectly flat). Then I cut it in half. To use it, I placed the tool on top of the shaft, used it as a square against the bearing. Then I installed the support plate under it, making sure the tool was not moving. Once the plate is there you can't see if the bearing is still square with the tool but you can feel it with your fingers. PVC fitting : Cut in half : This is how it fits on the shaft (old shaft ready to be shipped). It fits better on a good bearing. No, I've not had a chance yet. I'll do that when I send my shaft back.

I replaced the cardan shaft on my 04 Cayenne S. The original bearing support was broken. The car has only 28K miles, but I guess the Texas heat did not help. I bought the reconditioned shaft from Vertex, which includes a free flex disk for $350. I installed it a couple weeks ago. I had pretty strong vibrations with the new shaft, especially at low speed between 19~23 mph. At higher speeds they went away, but I was not happy. Those vibrations were really annoying, especially in traffic where you stay in that range for long periods. Then I remembered than during the installation, putting the bolts through the flex disk was unusually hard, like they were not lined up properly, while removing the bolts from the original disc was easy. So today I replaced the flex disk with my original one, which still looked really good (again, just 28K miles). Looking at both flex discs closely, the original Porsche disk is different, especially where the metal meets the rubber. Definitely better quality. The porsche disc went back in really easy, the bolts lined up properly. And the vibrations went away. The car is really smooth now. Different car ! :-) BTW I made an alignment tool from a $3.50 PVC fitting (-edit- 1.5" x 3" coupler) that I bored a little on the lathe and then cut in half. It made the alignment of the bearing easy. Conclusion : if you order the reconditioned shaft from Vertex, put the flex disc in the trash, and get one from the dealer (unless you can reuse your original one). The alternate brands are not the same in terms of quality !

Thanks Duram, I finally had time to connect the PIWIS, and it won't find the rear / doors module at all. Does anybody know where this module is located ?

Hello, I have a 2004 Cayenne S. My trunk won't open anymore. It's the regular one, not the power tailgate. The window on the tailgate still opens fine (and I go through there to access the unlock mechanism by hand for now, but it's tiring). When I press the electric button, I don't hear the actuator, the door stays locked. I've replaced the actuator, it was cheap enough ($20) but it still won't work. I have access to a Piwis, but I would need directions on where to look to diagnose if the ECU (Kessy ?) gets the information when the unlocking button is pressed. When talking to the Kessy, the communication gets lost frequently. Could it be a Kessy going bad ? Thanks,

Is there anybody that knows about KTS520 and PIWIS ? Which version works ? What's the latest / recommended ? Does PIWIS v34 work with a KTS520 ? Is a firmware update needed ? PMs welcome. Thanks, -Guillaume

Thanks a lot Loren ! It worked just as expected ! ;-) Got radio again, and a new battery... I can't imagine how much time you spend answering those requests. Several codes a day, every day, more than 4500 posts in this thread... Thank you. What do you use to get the codes ? Can't that software be put in a java applet to save you some time ? -Guillaume Try 8903

Can you please find my code ? CR 220 type 4362 Serial Y5023036 Thanks !

Emissions in my county just rely on the OBDII. So unless the RoW map prevents the OBD to report emissions stuff, that would be a good idea. Also, this car will end up in Europe at some point... So it may really be a good idea to change to euro cats + euro maps. Yes, I noticed that the O2 sensor (pre-cat) has been changed recently, it's pretty clean. If the O2 sensor was bad, the ECU could have made the car run rich. I hope there's nothing else hiding behind that...

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 Boxster S with 61000 miles that I bought recently. Soon after I bought it, the CEL came on, with code P0430 = low efficiency for cat, bank 2. Today, I started the car for 30 seconds to put in on ramps. While I was under there changing the fuel filter, I also noticed that the bank 2 cat was almost cold while the bank 1 cat was still very warm. Which tends to prove that I really need a new cat. Now, looking in the PET, the US model has the part number : 996 113 104 05 "Exhaust manifold with starter catalytic converter". This one costs $1200 :-( Looking at the ROW PET file, the ROW model has the part : 996 111 104 00 "Exhaust manifold". lt does not mention any starter catalytic converter, but from the drawing, it looks like it has a cat. It has an O2 sensor before and after, which would tend to prove it has a converter... This ROW part costs only $460 dollars... Does anyone know the difference ? Can we use the ROW part on a US car ? I could change both sides for less than one US side ! I'm also wondering why a cat would die at only 60K miles... Thanks, -Guillaume