stsanford

I'm trying to get a photo of down lower in the steering column, I tried above and it didn't make much diference, seems the sound is coming from where the steering rod goes into the rubber gasket in the firewall. I have a white plastic fitting which joins in-between the adjustable section of the steering shaft with the part that goes through the firewall, it's cracked in a couple of places and some of the white plastic is missing. should I be alarmed about this? Would it steering rod pop out of place? Thanks!

Really, you think that's what it is? Will do, I have some silicone lubricant that my Porsche Mechanic gave me, he says it's the best, but I didn't ask if it was good for this type of use. I've used it for lubricating the seals, etc. You think that would be good? Thanks,

Hello all, My 2000 C4 is getting noisier it seems.. http://www.stsanford.com/scottstart/uploads/MOV01743.MPG This video is really more for the sound than the video part, but it gives you an idea of when turning the steering wheel illicits the sound. Thanks in advance!

Sorry if this is a repost (I searched first!) When I turn my steering wheel for tight manuvering, I get a creeking sound like it's rubbing on something, or that it needs to be lubricated. I've replaced my 4-spoker with a 3-spoke, and was aware of the wire inside, it seemed to be fine, so I'm wondering if it is something lower down the steering column. When I originally got the car in June it did this once on a rainy day, but now it's pretty much constant. Any ideas? Thanks!

Loren, Car is idling well now. What a great treat this car is! Truly amazing, I haven't driven it for over 2 weeks and I'm so thrilled to have had the privledge again today. Thanks so much for your help and your board!

Thanks Loren! Will try driving it tomorrow.

I had my bettery die on me, so I happened to have an Energizer left over from my '98 986. I popped it in, but the car had been without power for probably 3-4 days. Initial startup was strong, the idle was rough for 30-40 seconds, with the car almost stalling out once. ( I instinctively blipped the gas, so I don't know if it would have). Car is driving fine, have put approx 12 miles on it since the battery terminals have had juice, but now it's developed a wavy idle. Should I be concerned? Maybe I should get a new battery afterall... The Voltmeter is showing a tick under 14 when underway, right at 12 when key is at position I. I should add that I did just recently have difficulty with the MAF, codes P1128 and P1129 and just replaced the MAF and air filter. The car's got 32K on it and is due for a change of spark plugs I think (I am the 3rd owner, and it looks like they were changed at 25K but that was 2 years ago.) I have a link to a sound recording of the idle, sorry for the quality, made it with my PDA... Current Idle Sound Thanks in advance, Scott

Loren, Sorry to do a me-too... bu Me Too! Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. Seems that it was indeed the MAF. Took it out, cleaned it. Reinstalled it. No CEL! Many thanks for such a great forum!

Thanks Loren. So If I pick these up, I should be be able to get them to fit my '00 if I reuse the existing tips? Can I just order the vacuum tube as well as the electronics to activate this? Thanks so much for your knowledge and insight!

I have the opportunity to get a pair of used C4S Sport Exhaust mufflers for my 2000 C4. Would these fit? I would need all the electronics to make it happen, but first question is if it is feasible... Thanks!

NO link, but I just completed the same swap on my 00 (non-tip). Here's my advice: 1. Go to Sears. Ask the nice people to get you (usually locked away) a Star / Torx socket set. There's a nice set that looks like an allen-key tool where they all unfold if you know what I mean. It has a blue handle. You want this tool becasue there are two torx sockets (#30) you need to remove to get at the wheel. 2. Take your time. I rushed a little becasue I had to pick my wife up from work and wound up with a steering wheel that was a little loose. Not a comforting experience! 3. My plan was as follows: Lower windows 1-2" Disconnect the car's battery Leave trunk open Leave all key transponders in the house, use spare key and keep it with you (not in the ignition) Place the key in the ignition and turn 1/2 way to first click to remove the safety wheel lock Turn the wheel 90 degrees to the left. Remove the torx bit on the bottom of the wheel. Place the key in the ignition and turn 1/2 way to first click again and turn 180 degrees to the right. Remove that torx bit. Place the key in the ignition and turn 1/2 way to first click MOve the steering wheel back to the straight position. Key out of ignition? Just checking Slowly pull the airbag towards you. Disconnect wires as necessary Using a large socket (don't remember size) removed the center nut holding the wheel on. Using a sharpie mark the wheel's orientation by making a mark on the wheel and spline. Pull straight towards you. Will release with some force. Put the new wheel on and reverse the above. Total time: 20min if you take your time. I love my wheel now, felt that the 4-spoker was a bit dated...

That's a great idea, I was thinking of doing the following: Change oil and filter Change the particle filter It's an '00, so I would like to change the belts as well. Then I could take it to the dealer and have them grease the joints and check things like the bushings, etc. I had a CEL go off on me, but I cleaned the MAF and it (knock wood) hasn't come back on. I would think that it shouldn't cost more than $200 for peace of mind. I know the tech who's going to be working on the car, so it would be a social thing to go, see him, have him do the stuff I couldn't do easily since I don't have a lift, etc... Thanks again for letting me sound out... Thought $1609 was insane, unless I missed a step like "Grind up diamonds and coat underside of car with the dust" Regards, STS

Maybe I'm missing something. The 30,000mi. service is an oil change, filter change, inspect, inspect, inspect type of thing right? I was going to take the car to South Shore Porsche on Long Island to have the car given a thorough once-over since I bought it used. I cannot believe what they're getting for the service: $1609 plus tax. I have to be missing something. The service manager didn't even mention a complimentry bottle of K-Y or a happy ending. I'm thinking I can do this in 3 hours taking my time and for about a max of $300 in parts. Does this sound reasonable? Thanks, STS

Thanks Mike, I appreciate your help. I did as you recommended and got the final code: P0134 Cross-Referencing with the Code Booklet: P0134 = O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank1 Sensor 1) All of my CEL issues started after I had a short sliding my radio head-unit into the dash, could I have popped the O2 sensor fuse? Is that what it means, or is it because I did the test on a cold car after disconnecting the battery for something entirely different. Thanks so much for any help you can offer, Scott

Hi guys (and gals)! Which OBD II Scan Tools are you all using? I had check engine light come on, thought it was MAF sensor, but when I plugged in an EQUUS 3100 Scan Tool Equus Webpage I get ErrPr which I think means Error. It says on their website that it's compatible with PORSCHE, however, I'm not having much success. Thinking I might have a bum unit, I plugged into my Jag and no problem there. P1111 which for Ford products is a Pass, all systems go! Love to hear if anyone has even tried a PocketPC-based tool. I have a PPC that I have EVERYTHING on, so this would be a cool addition to have, esp. with a Bluetooth link. I saw one online, but I was hesitent to get it. Thanks in advance.

HEre's how my saga continued: The Head Unit I got from Becker was some sort of refurb. Can tell becasue the edges were nicked, it looks old, etc. The GPS antenna was okay except there was a cut in the wire's cheath exposing some of the cable underneath. More on this later... I got a call back from Becker alerting me that if I jumpered from A6 to C5 and left A6 connected, I would be doubling the voltage going to somewhere and it would burn out the unit. I opened the dash up again (am getting fast at this part) and removed the head unit, cut and nothing. No sound. Checked, re-wired, nothing. Jumpered it back, sound. Frustrated, I went back and forth like this. Finally, I had sound and re-neatened the wires, slowly pushed the head unit back into the dash and heard a buzz sound. Smelled smoke too. Pulled out as quick as possible and much to my chagrin.... You guessed it - fried the nav portion of the head unit. Seems that the chassis made a short with the GPS antenna wire. I didn't report to Becker the fact that the wire was abused when I received it . I was just happy I had NAV for my 911. Should have, now I have a shorted unit that I just FedEx'd back to them to see how much it's going to cost me to repair. :angry: There's a moral here, but damned if I know what it is yet... :huh:

Thanks so much! What an awesome resurce this forum has proven to be! THanks again. One thing, I just had my check engine light come on. Do you think there could be any relation to the Traffic Pro install? Many thanks again!

I just got (with the advice from Orient Express - thanks! by the way) the Harman Kardon Traffic Pro from Becker. It's a direct replacement, however it's not playing any audio through my speakers when I plug in the yellow speaker connector. Could I be wiring this up wrong? I don't see how, and when I plug the CDR 220 back in, it's fine. Thanks in advance for your help!

Thanks for the advice, perhaps I will go that route after all

I just tried it and it doesn't work for me. Does this need to be turned on by the dealer?

You think? We're talking some serious breakdown of the leather where the seatbelt goes. Through down to the webbing. Lots of cracking on the rest of the leather. I was considering a leather kit, but some here have dissuaded me due to difficulty of fit. I would just like to have nice, black leather seats is all! Thanks again!

If I have the memory seats, and I need to replace just the leather on them, could I buy a set of manual seats on ebay and just take the leather off and swap it out with mine? Just a thought, Thanks!

I have posted some images, looks like it might be a radar / laser detector.... http://clientfiles.stsanford.com/911c4/index.html