shihman

ok, i bought a new MAF and replaced it. after 3 days of driving around town, the cel went off on it own today. took it to get re-inspected and it passed. just want to report back if anyone is experiencing the same problem ans code. thanks everyone for your inputs.

should the cel clear itself after x-number of start cycles if i put a good MAF?

is there any other ways to determine whether is a bad MAF?

how do you check the air flow at idle and at 2500rpm?

so i drove around the town running errands, my cel came back on. took car to auto zone got the code read and again is P1130. does that mean my MAF has gone bad? since cleaning it didn't seem to help.

i hope cleaning my MAF will clear my cel P1130. the smog test didn't find any fault code and maybe is because i cleared it when i disconnect the battery. would the cel come back on once the computer resets itself if it's a bad MAF or is that a separate issue? how would i know if the car has reset itself if i don't take it to a mechanic? anyway, i have 15 days to get it done so i still have some time for a little fun driving around the town. thanks guy.

ok guys, here is what happened and what i did with my car the last 3 months. my MY2000 Boxster S started with cel 1128, then had idling problem and white smoke at start up. so i had my throttle body and valve cleaned to fix the idling problem, replaced my AOS for the white smoke, found a crack in the middle section of the oil tube and replaced it, thinking that should be the cause of cel 1128 and it did. oh i also replaced the driver side radiator. so now few weeks later after all that have been fixed and replaced, i get a cel 1130. so i cleaned my MAF with MAF cleaner and reset the cel by disconnecting the battery. after driving around for about a week and took my car to get the inspection done, surprise, it failed. the report said that the catalyst - not ready, Evap - not ready and 2nd sys - not ready. i was told that after you disconnect the battery the car will need to be driven around 40 to 60 miles at high speed for the computer to re-learn the driving pattern. i did that last night. i circled around my town and putting on about 85 miles on the highway last night. this morning i took the car back to get a second inspection, same thing came up. so now what do i do? i do have 15 days to get it done. should i just need to drive around more until the computer to finally register or is that something wrong that i need to take it to the shop? please help.

ok guys, got my new radiator and the hose cut-off pliers and ready to go. i took off the front bumper, clean off all the debris and loosen the ac grill. now here comes my questions (did you really think i wouldn't ask anymore questions? haha). immediately my first impression is there is not enough slack of the ac hose for me to move it out of the way to get to radiator. then second problem, looking around radiator, other than the 2 clip on the right end (facing radiator) can't figure out what else is holding it so tight because it literally doesn't move. is there something else i need to remove? third, the ac hose is not long enough and even if i can somehow to get ac out of the way, the radiator hose is not long enough either, especially the upper hose. oh yeah, studying the new radiator and found a short stem on the back side (see pic) then went to look at the attached radiator and saw a small tube is connected to it. what is it? am i missing something or am i really that clueless and who said this is easier than the AOS?! ;) please advice so i can get this over with.

thank you murice. yeah i definitely didn't see these at autozone yesterday. i will try pep boys later today and few other local places if they don't have it. very clear and thank you.

Shihman: The radiator probably has to be replaced, although if the bend is not too bad and all you have is the leak, in some instances a radiator shop can re-solder the radiator or epoxy it and stop the leak. You might be better off getting a used radiator from someone parting out their car if you don't want to spring for a new one. Take a look at the 986forum.com classifieds. There are a couple of guys parting out their 986's. You might get lucky. One caution. Before you remove your radiator, get a couple of hose shutoff pliers and clamp the two radiator hoses shut. If you don't you're going to lose a lot of coolant and it will be that much harder to "burp" or bleed the cooling system after everything is back together. Pep Boys and Autozone sell a set of two pliers, made of red plastic that should do the job fine. Regards, Maurice. hey maurice, i went to autozone today to look for those shutoff pliers but they don't know what i am talking about. they have something called quick disconnect is that it or not? do you have a picture of what they look alike and i'll try pep boys next. thanks,

mastrerbm, i am no way an expert at problem solving but i just have to chime in on this issue since i just had an exact same problem. thanks to all people in this forum and especially to maurice, glyn and bob walking me thru the entire process. first i also have the idling problem and i got that taken care of by cleaning the throttle body and the butterfly valve particularly. clean off all the grease and the gunk at the valve. i used break fluid and found that it's very easy if you use an old clean sock that you don't wear anymore and put it over you hand to clean inside the valve. i can guarantee that will fix the idling problem. as for changing the AOS, follow the link maurice post. here is the link to my post. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...4731&hl=aos hope this helps.

thank you all again for all the info. i will go ahead and order a new radiator now. hope fully nothing else will be needed. i will report back when i start the job and hopefully it will be as smooth as the oil change. haha

guys thank you again for all inputs. i looked up the price for a radiator, just the radiator from pelican is $243 and sunset parts usually is 10%-15% cheaper. my local shop will charge me $95 for diagnosis. of course that cost will be waved or taken off if i get it fixed there. their labor cost is $85/hour and i am sure this will be at the very least a 2 hour job for them plus what ever parts that they may add on. i am just wondering if this is a fairly straight forward DIY, i don't mind just purchase and replace the radiator myself. of course i will need you guys holding my hands again going thru the steps, in a manly car fixing manner of course ;). unless there will be much complication with the hoses and bleeding/flushing. please let me know so i can order the radiator. ps. i have to say you guys gave me the bug for this DIY concept.

thanks maurice. do i just need to replace the radiator or is there any other parts/hoses that also need to be replaced? what is the grill in front of the radiator? are there any threads that have a detailed instruction of replacing the radiator like which hose do i clamp down with the clamp pliers and is this a very straight forward DIY? thank you guys again for all your help.

ok guys, so finally i got the bumper off. i know it didn't take long but just got a lot of sh*t going on. but anyway this is what is underneath. i guess i hit the center part of the radiator so it is causing it to leak on the left lower corner. see pic. so let me know what is the next step? replace the entire radiator and what else? :help:

hey glyn, there is also another screw screwed in front the underside to where the side maker is. looks like you have to take the wheel liner out to access that screw. is this correct, or is there another way to do so? also what is the best way to remove those plastic rivets?

haha glyn, you caught me. i purposely wreck parts of the car so i have an excuse to fix it. after all, there is no reason to take the car apart when it is in good running shape. :lol: ok, first thing first. i added another quart of oil, that makes it 10 quarts already, and still nothing showing up on the dipstick. hmm... <_< my project this weekend will be the radiator. so i'll report back on my success or lack of and what i ruined by hitting the curb. thank you all, over and out.

haha, you guys are funny. as much as i struggled with AOS, the word "expert" is far from anything i know and does with the engine. but i do appreciate all the help. :thumbup: never the less, when i changed the oil, i did let it drain for almost an hour or so and another half an hour after removing the filter. just now i went and check it again and the dipstick has some black burned residue at end of the tip but still no oil. i will go get 1 or 2 more quarts of oil tomorrow and see if that works. as far as checking the radiator, is it possible to remove the bumper without removing front tires? if not, i will have to take the car to a tire store to get the bolts loosen first. does this look bad for this much leak?

hey glyn, the electronic reading is full at cold start and in between the arrows towards high after warm. so i think i am ok. but the strange thing is my dipstick is completely dry. i am just a little concerned and wondering if i mess something up with AOS.

i put in 9 quarts.

ok guy, here is a doozy. i changed my oil today and happy to say everything went smoothly. after completing the oil change, started up, drove around the block and the oil reading from the dash was all good except my oil dipstick was completely dry. i re-insert the dipstick back in and taken it out several times but nothing. what happened? does this has anything to do with me replacing my AOS earlier?

hey maurice, you said it best. just when i thought i am almost done, they pull me back in. i haven't completely finished the previous DIY. i did finish replacing the AOS and wow what a difference it made to the smoothness of the drive (i hope i am not imagining things). i still have to replace the middle oil tube and Brad had suggested to take out the AOS and then replacing it. if there is not another way to do it without taking out the AOS, i'll have to tackle it when i can set aside more time before i jump into it. in the mean time i will change the oil (the way my luck is lately, hopefully this will go smoothly) and see what kind of damage/mess i did to the radiator. thanks again for all your help and everyone's. i'll report back when find more information.

MY2000, boxster s, 101200 miles hey guys, i had a little run in with the stupid island curb in the parking lot tonight. while trying to park, i ran the front driver side over the curb. it made a loud enough sound for me to take notice. after i got out of the car and inspect the front fender, indeed inside the left front wheel wall was slightly pushed in (see pic). then i noticed fluid was dripping down, slowly but dripping. i think it is the coolant but i am not sure why would it be leaked in that location unless there is a radiator. so my question is, did i cause a major damage and is this something i can fix myself? also, i am planning on making my own oil change. i already bought the motor oil and the paper filter with the replace seal ring. also have the drain pan, allen wrench and the filter wrench ready. i am only lacking a new crush ring. the question is can this crush ring be bought at any local auto parts store or do i need to go to the dealer to get it? also, i have read lots of posts of horrible experiences with removal of the drain plug because it is aluminum and soft and very easy to ruin the tread. is this true? :help: thank you all in advance.

i knew it. actually i have already purchased the pipe. so, what now? :(

ok guys, i am sorry to flood the tread with frustrations. but i just want to report back that I DID IT!!!. i finally got the bellow to seat it flush and release the plastic tie, screw on the 2 bolts and it did tighten the plastic tube into the block, connect the middle hose, connect the new Y-Tube. it has been few excruciating days with torn skin on fingers, hands and arms and few bruises. but you are all correct, the feeling is extremely satisfying, and that's an understatement. again, i could not have done this without ALL the help, patience and support from you guys. (too mushy, yeah i think so too :lol: ) anyway, i am glad i did it myself and it did saved me about $600, quote from my dealer and another independent shop. now, next step for me is to change the middle section of the oil tube. i had a leak which gave me an error dose of P1130. after i temporarily sealed it with hose tape and the code went away. it looked simply enough. but it's never as easy as it looks. especially the end that is buried all the way inside the cavity, just outside of the oil tank. i released the hose clamp on the end by the Y-Tube but i can not disengage the end and i have no leverage to apply any force either. i thought about cutting it in half so i can twist the end to break it loose. but my concern is how do i get to the other end? Also, while i was moving AOS around and i broke a plastic tube (see pic). inside the tube is a metal cable. is this just the trunk release cable or do i need to replace this one too? i am getting pretty excited about doing more fixes.