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Rapewta

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Everything posted by Rapewta

  1. Going from a 285/30-18 to a 285/35-18 will indeed add another inch to the diameter. You car will sit higher and might even look a little odd. I wouldn't do it. Good Luck.
  2. Third owner. 1st, 10 yrs and kept up maintenance. 2nd owner, nice guy who just putted around. No tracking. I got it with 70K. Good service records with first owner.Second owner just talked alot. Anyway, the car now has 75K and a complete 60k service done. No mods. Same 17" rims which will soon be 11" rear and 8" fronts thank to Eric Vaughn. 225's and 285's. Stuff wears out after 10-12 years but stay on top of it and drive it with gusto.
  3. Go to www.ejelta.com The site is a tire size calculater. 295's fit a 12" rim the best in my opinion. 265's fit a 10" rim the best in my opinion.
  4. I didn't notice any difference. Psychologically it did but my car runs better after washing it too.
  5. My motor mounts let go the other day. Red fluid started dripping from both sides of the rear of the car. Maybe two ounces each. They are easy to replace. You have to remove the airbox for the right mount and get the air pump out of the way for the left mount. Two bolts hold the top of the mount and one nut at the bottom. If you decide to torque the bottom nut, it is 63 ft lbs. I think it is an 19mm socket. Deep if available. The top stuff requires a 10mm, 13mm and a 7/64 torx or metric equivelant for the MAF. When you have the new mounts installed and just snug, take the car off the jacks so it is sitting on the ground with no support, then tighten the two top bolts and bottom nut. Check the exhaust tips and they should be even. When car is suspended on four jack stands, you need to support the engine with a hydraulic jack so as to take the weight off of the mounts. This will make the old motor mounts pull right out. You might have to play with the left mount to wiggle it out and around the air pump that you semi-removed by removing the two bolts and one nut. OEM mounts are around $100.00 each thru discount stores. You might as well clean the throttle body while you have the air box removed.
  6. Ramps are good. I still leave the jack uner the car as additional protection. Porsche tires can be pretty wide... 255's on up and some ramps are too narrow. The tires will hang off the sides of the ramp. Anyone that is contemplating purchasing ramps should take a tape measure with them to the store and make sure the ramp will support the width of the tire. Some ramps will "kick out" while you are driving the car on to them. Get ramps with the rubber on the bottom that prevents this from happening.
  7. Good... I am not alone in "learning the hard way." Years ago, while changing the oil I put the new oil filter on, not realizing the old rubber O ring was still on the engine. I got done, backed the car all the way from the garage, down the driveway into the street leaving a nice 6" wide trail of 4 quarts of oil. The good thing is that you will only do this once.
  8. Mikez996... I too have a (bought used) 99 Carrera that is starting to show it's age. I think that buying a used car is a "crap shoot". It is not that it is the first year for the 996. Everything I am having to replace is normal. The biggest problem with any used car is it's previous owners and the maintenance performed. Most guys that are driving the "inexpensive to buy" 996 don't have monster paying jobs and can't just take the car to the dealership when things go south on the p-car. So it is frustrating. Aside from the IMS/RMS design flaws, the 996 is no different from owning another car. My advice to any prospective first time Porsche buyer is get a 1 owner if possible and make sure they took the car to the dealership as scheduled. I always liked Volvos. Had friends and co-workers that swore by them. I bought one years ago without caring if the previous owners took car of the car and ended up with a huge nightmare. I think the last owner went as far as only putting gas in it. I finally donated the car to a "childrens home". The next Volvo (I presently have) was bought used and after getting to know the owner, I knew the car was cared for and we love it. No problems.
  9. +1 on MCmike27's post. If you have a record of maintenance at 60K like you stated it was on record, then hopefully it was the full 60K service. I have never called a dealership and asked for any info but I don't see why they would have a problem telling you what was done at 60K.
  10. Because technology keeps changing, I couldn't find Mobil Mobilube PTX 75W90. I have to think that maybe the Mobil Synthetic Gear Lubricant "LS" 75W90 might have replaced it. Anyway that is what is going in the transmission on the P-car. Quote "Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W90 exceeds the performance requirements of API Service GL-5". If I am making a mistake, please let me know as I am going to change the oil in the next couple days. I don't track the 996, just take it easy shifting between 4 and 5K. Should be ok. If you haven't changed transmission oil before, don't forget the inexpensive pump adapter. What I am planning on doing is put the car up on four level jack stands to drain and fill.
  11. I once had a pin hole leak in an exhaust header gasket that I swore was comming from the tappets. I adjusted the rocker arms two or three times and still had the "tick-tick-ticking" going on. I finally found it by running my fingers around the headers when the engine was cold and running. I felt the little puffs of air. Was a couple dollar fix. Your noise can be from many different reasons but I thought I would let you know how one of those reasons was corrected. Good luck.
  12. 18K for an engine when a person can shop around carefully and buy a 10 yr old 996 with only a couple of owners for that price is crazy. I have many passions and so I get on many forums that support my interests. One thing I have found is that forums are like hospitals... You post your problems. The healthy (in this case) cars don't come up as much as the ones with boo-boos. Me thinks that the 996 problem autos are a very small percentage of the ones on the road. No stats... just my opinion.
  13. 99 6sp coupe. 74,000 miles. 1st owner put 50k on car with great service records. Had it approx. 10 yrs. 2nd owner put 20k on car with no records. I got it and did a complete 60k service including new brake pads front and rear. Looks and runs great.
  14. I will see if I can find their wedsite. Thanks. I can get rid of a couple small front bumper scratches too.
  15. I also have an extra pair (actually four) of the clips if anyone needs them. LLoyd Mats Ultimat are rich. Like 80 oz pile and great fit.
  16. Yesterday I parked in a public parking lot and yea, I should have known better... I got dinged. After two owners and twelve years with no dings, I made the mistake. This morning I went out to get the newspaper and my other car sitting in the driveway got egged. I have no issues with anyone that I know, so the egging had to be random juvinile delinquents. I hope that's it for now.
  17. Suncoast Motorsports @ Florida has the upper bin for $35.95 plus s&h. part # 0 996-552-253-01-01C. At least you have a CD storage bin. Mine was for cassettes!
  18. "Word for Word" is correct. I have the exact same problem on my 1999 C2. The switch needs to be replaced. I drove home at 5 am holding in the stalk for momentary high beams. 10 miles across town. I haven't replaced the switch yet because it just happened. Somewhere burried in the "thread archives" here is some others that had the same symptoms. Stuff wears out I guess.
  19. The only special tool required might be the inexpensive "brake pad spredder". Once you remove the cotter pin and tap out the 1/4" rod that holds the pads in place, you will need to spread the old pads a little to remove them. Everything you need to do is obvious, like removing the sensor wires. A thin putty knife will seperate the dampners from the old pads. Just go slowly and you will seperate them. You don't open any fluid lines. It is very, very easy to do. The only challange is making sure you use the "brake pad spreader" to it's fullest in that you really have to spread the pistons all the back to drop the new pads in. Maybe tap them a little with a mallet once you get them started. Also, keep an eye on the fluid fill resovoir because you might be pushing some fluid back up in the system as you spread the pads. I used to use a big pair of Channel Locks (model 460) to spread pads but this pad spredder gizmo is cool. In my opinion, anyone can do this job correctly and take the money you saved and go "tool shopping" for future DIY's. Good Luck. edit... this is for a 996 car. I don't know the brake systems on other Porshces.
  20. You're welcome. You probably already know from the DIY but I will give you a heads up on some tools you might need. 1. Torx heads... for the pollen filter and MAF (eventually). Harbor Freight has sets. 2. Metric allens. L-shaped and T-handles. 3. 3/8" torque wrench. For plugs and coils. Foot lbs. 4. 3/8" extensions. Like a 2", 4" and 6". 5. 3/8" universal. 6. Set of metric sockets. 7. The polyrib change requires a large socket. Check for size. I think it is a 24 mm or larger. 8. Tube puller for plugs. I used the handle of a nut driver. 9. Drop light. 10. 76X14 flute socket for oil cannister. 11. Large drain pan for oil. Some guys can probably do all the maintenance with just a screwdriver and channel-locks. I can't. Let me know when you get your parts and I will get the paste to you. Good Luck.
  21. As you can see in the photo... no jack or stands are needed. At the corner of Folsom and Bradshaw is a Toon-Town looking plaza. On the end is a deli. I can meet you there and give you the Porsche Optimol Paste. Give me a time. Don't take it personal but I don't loan out (liability) Hydraulic jacks or stands. Sorry.
  22. I live in Sacramento too. Off of Watt and Hi-way 50. I just changed my plugs and tubes. You only use a fraction of the grease from the tube. Let me know if you decide to use the grease and I will give you the rest.
  23. I have the same gray interior. A lot of black on the dash. I think a company called LLOYDs has the quality black floor mats. The problem I have is the original mats are mated to the floor with these male/female plastic snaps. If I can find the same in black, I am going to get them. No logo. The other thing I want to get is the 6 speed shifter and boot in black. An outfit (junk yard) close by has one but they want $150.00 used. Can't do it. Good Luck.
  24. + 1 on Steve Tinker's post. My Carrera would get up to 200 deg f in slow traffic. Both radiators were at least 20 percent blocked by years of (bought car used) collecting leaves and other debris. Was pretty caked up. Cleaned and made a 10 degree difference. In my opinion, 190 degress plus or minus 10 degrees is optimum operating temp.
  25. Bruce2010... You da man!! Worked first time. Thanks. Once you enter the code... press the "seek" button and the music is blasting thru the speakers.
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