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About perry190

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  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2000 boxter S

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  1. They are stuck on with double sided tape (firmly) I managed to lever up one end and then use a screw driver to lever the rest up, using a cloth pad under the screw driver to ensure no scratching of the paint. might help if you heat them to aid the glue release
  2. As Loren said I assumed you were talking about the whole piece not just the central panel. theres no wiring or hole under it tho matey
  3. just returned from the independant after having the new power steering pump fitted, took them 3 hours in the end, and yes you've guessed it the sound is still there! Their latest diagnosis is that its the belt tensioner at a cost of £29 and about 40 mins to stip/fit. we havnt discussed payment yet until I return to have the tensioner fitted (due tomorrow lunch) but I'm assuming the £29 tensioner is going to now cost me about 600+ inc labour and VAT! A bit naffed off to say the least :(
  4. just replaced mine with the ally ones and its painted metal, no recess or wiring hope that helps
  5. took it into an independant today and they had a fiddle about and initially thought it was coming from the engine . but once the covers were off and the poly belt removed the sound went. it appears to be the power steering pump (£375) he was checking later today to see how much of a job it is to replace as he hasnt had one go before fingers crossed when I ring him tomorrow it wont be mega labour costs
  6. Having just returned from a rather spirited sprint down to and around st tropez she has developed an annoying rattle that can be heard from inside the drivers side air vent. (UK car) Initially a rattle appeared when going over some of the bumpy french/italian roads which steadily got more profound, but then it could be heard on tick over from the vent. Its not a 'heavy' knocking as you would expect from inside the engine but more like something has come lose and is catching against a moving part possibly? (rotational) This caused me concern obviously in case it was a sharp object catching against the polyrib belt or the likes, so I did the return journey at about 80mph rather than the sometimes excessive speeds on the way out (went with a gt Four pushing around 380bhp) I've checked the heat shields and they seem secure and it seems higher up, anyone had similar symptoms that could give me an indication before I take it in to be checked by an independant? I'm assuming the rattle at big bumps and the noise at tickover are connected, but of course this may not be the case. many thanks P -------------------- my baby http://www.freewebs.com/perry190/IMG_0133ccc.jpg
  7. most of the options are shown at www.design911.co.uk to give you an idea :)
  8. just tried this on mine after thew windows went funny following the battery being dissconnected for a week (retrim) and it sorted then straight away! very many thanks for some **** useful info :)
  9. then the best option would be one of the aerokit wings then as they are designed by porsche for the car?
  10. In the UK your probably best using this spray paint http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8205 A good supplier with next day delivery I personally would suggest unbolting the calipers and the bolt that holds the brake line in place and merely moving the caliper away to one side, rather than dissconnecting it. Alternatively you can quite easily mask up the areas you dont want painted or simply remove the pads and disc rather than muck around with your fluids. I've recently renewed the discs and pads on my 2000 'S' and it was one of the easiest cars I've ever worked on for brakes. I can thoroughly recommend this paint, as being a spray it gives a perfectly smooth factory finish. But obviously try it on test area first to ensure its the finish you want. hope that helps Perry
  11. The existing head unit harness goes through a large rubber grommet on the drivers side (UK car) if you put your head down by the fuse box in the footwell and look directly up at the firewall you'll see it going through. They are within the main wiring loom (thick mass of wires) It then comes out the other side and passes through the secondary bulk head and along behind the carpet to the amp. hope that helps in some way
  12. thanks matey, that seems very high though?
  13. well after much struggling and a cup of tea (I am british after all :) ) I managed to remove the pads Would I be right in thinking that when you replace them you insert the plastic plugs in the holes first, then push the pads on? I'm assuming this then opens out the plugs to hold it all in place?
  14. just wondered as I'm removing my padding today as the seats, cards and padding are going in for a retrim. been tugging at the padding for an hour so far without any joy (afraid of breaking something) I remember you saying previously that you need a gorilla's arms to pull them off :)
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