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Folks, thank you for the quick replies and helpful information. Also, thank you for the clarification on “jump” 87 and 30, they are not fuse numbers but rather the connector number on a board. Is this is located right under the steering wheel? I will also need to perform a fuel pressure test, is there any write up with photos in the forum, I did look for it for a while. JFP, you mentioned in one of your replies that there is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail, is it on both fuel rail or just one side? (any photo avail?) I just replace CPS this weekend. Initially hard to find, once found, the installation is straight forward. I did check the Ohm (resistance) on the old CPS and it is within the spec. therefore that is not the problem. I have replaced and cleaned a number of things in the past 2 years, TB, idle control valve, fuel filter, fuel pump, AOS, J-tube, breather tube and I even bought Durametric tool for troubleshooting and I am still living with this problem. I am now starting to wonder if the fuel pump is defective even though I replaced it about 2 years ago and I noticed that is when this engine stalling problems started occurring a few months after that. I also noticed during test drive, on the 3rd and 4th gear, the car feels weak like not enough fuel is getting to engine. Is there a way to test fuel pump ( voltage, resistance etc ) in addition to fuel pressure test? As always, thank you all for your help.
Hi, folks, I am looking some instruction to troubleshoot Fuel Pump Relay, I was wondering if anyone can point me in a right direction. ( I did search the forum for a while ) Also, How do you “jump” 87 and 30 fuse? Would a defective relay throw a code? Any help is greatly appreciated. 1998 2.5 litre, 5-speed. Problem: still troubleshooting engine stalling (fuel cut-off?) problem when the engine warms up ~180 degree. Code: no code displayed using Durametric
Thank you for the quick reply and suggestion. This Durametric is pretty cool, I will be exploring many of its' features. I will also try to see if there is any cam-position deviation to see if I have some of IMS failure symptoms. Once agan, thank you!
Sorry about the late reply, I Finally got the Durametric system, hooked it up to the diagnostic port before and after the problem that I have been experiencing, NO error code. I also un-connected the MAF and test drove the car before I got my Durametric, still the same problem. Next thing to check and/or replace, crankcase position sensor. ( any thoughts?)
Thank you for the quick reply. I don't have a code reader and that is the reason why I have been reading and changing parts that I think are culprits to the problem. ( I know, it gets to be expensive; although I didn't mind initially and I am now seriously looking at durametric $278 enthusiast version) I cleaned the MAF using MAF cleaner and it has never been replaced.
Hi folks, I have a 98 2.5 litre/5-speed boxster w/ 110K on the odometer. I have been trying to troubleshoot engine stalling problem for sometimes. I have read several topics pertaining to problems with engine stalling and I have changed/cleaned the following in the past 2 years Changed -AOS, J-tube, fuel pump, fuel filter and crankcase hose ( its' connector was damanged when I changed AOS), oil dipstick tube. Cleaned -throttle body, idle control valve, intake manifolds. I started to wonder if the problem I am experiencing is associated with fuel-line related parts, not vacuum leak. No check engine light. Idles fine ( in most cases) engine would stall while driving, ( especially engine running in low rpm, above 2500rpm the engine would keep running) Does a defective purge valve (the one by throttle body) cause this type of problem without triggering CEL? Any help is appreciated.
thank you folks for the reply ( 1998 Boxster 2.5 5 speed ) No wonder it was really hard to pull that hose off the metal fitting. Should I just remove the black inner part of the hose from the metal fitting ( pic. 1 ) and cut about an inch of the hose ( pic. 2) and re-attach it?
Hi Folks, I am in a process of re-assembling the intake manifold and was wondering what I would need to use to "glue"/re-attach the fuel hose to the fuel rail. Please see the attached pictures. When I disconnected the fuel hose, I realized that it may have been "glued" and I accidentily ripped it from the hose. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Does anyone know what is the torque spec for intake manifold bolt ( they are six per side) ? Do I apply anti-seizure paste to the bolts when I re-install? I am in a process of replacing the crankcase breather hose and it looks like I would need to remove both intake manifolds in order to get to remove and install that breather hose. Any help is greatlly appreciated.
Thank you for the quick reply. It looks like this "special tool" is out of my reach. Awesome info and picture. I will just get the TPS out of the throttle body and clean it, if I could and use ohmmeter to test CPS this weekend. Hopefully this will eliminate no starting, stalling and lack of power between 1500 and 2000 rpm problems.
Being busy for a few days, just got back. Loren, thank you very much for the info. I don't know if the instruction provided is within my capability, I will try to find out what special tool is. Once again, thank you for the quick reply.
So there is a little update; called around local part stores to see if any of them would loan an OBDII reader or allow me to just use it while I am here. It seems that all of those auto part stores stopped loaning out OBDII code scanner. ( auto zone, o'reilly's etc ) So, I am back to just troubleshoot based on numerous threads from the forum. The symptoms seem to be aligned with bad crankcase position sensor, and/or throttlebody position sensor. ( can't find any visible vacuum leak ) I found what Loren posted a while to troubleshoot the CPS " 1. Remove connector. Connect ohmmeter to CPS connector, pins 1 and 2. Display at 20 °C: 0.8 - 1.0 kohms.If this is not the reading then replace the CPS.2. Connect an ohmmeter to CPS connector, pins 1 and 3. Display: infinite ohms.If this is not the reading then replace the CPS." Is there a similar to troubleshoot the throttle body position sensor as well? Any thoughts?
I will defintely visually check areas for possible vacuum leaks again, although I double checked everything when I put the throttle body back in after cleaning the tb and idle valve. The reason why I thought the TPS might be the culprit is because of the symptons of the problem. on ocassions, below 1000rpm the rough idling, and then it stalls. ( regardless of temperature/ first few minutes of driving or after an hr of driving ) Also around 1500~2000 rpm, it feels lack of power. Without code reader, I guess I am just trying to troubleshoot based on some common symptons. I will try to get hold of one this weekend. In the mean time, any suggestion is appreciated.
Hi Folks, it is been a while since I posted last time. I have a 98 2.5 litre, 5-speed with 128K on the clock. For last 6 mo. or so, I started experiencing engine rough idle, stalling problems with no CEL. ( I know, it doesn't mean there is no code, thinking about buying durametric soon ~$280) I took out the throttle body and Idle control valve and clean them. I also cleaned the MAF. The problem still persists. I read several posts on the forum that point to bad tps. I have the following several questions. 1. Does a bad TPS trigger CEL always? 2. Is there a way to test TPS, voltage, resistance, etc? As always, any help is greatly appreciated.