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Everything posted by dsulu

  1. Thank you for the reply. I think that non removable specialty hose is about $150-$200. Would a fuel line hose from any auto part store work? Has anyone tried it?
  2. Just curious, has anyone replaced that circled fuel line with an auto store bought fuel line hose ( not a Porsche replacement part) ? If so, what is the size of fuel hose diameter? Is there a particular type of fuel hose that I could use as a replacement? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  3. Folks, thank you for the quick replies and helpful information. Also, thank you for the clarification on “jump” 87 and 30, they are not fuse numbers but rather the connector number on a board. Is this is located right under the steering wheel? I will also need to perform a fuel pressure test, is there any write up with photos in the forum, I did look for it for a while. JFP, you mentioned in one of your replies that there is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail, is it on both fuel rail or just one side? (any photo avail?) I just replace CPS this weekend. Initially hard to find, once found, the installation is straight forward. I did check the Ohm (resistance) on the old CPS and it is within the spec. therefore that is not the problem. I have replaced and cleaned a number of things in the past 2 years, TB, idle control valve, fuel filter, fuel pump, AOS, J-tube, breather tube and I even bought Durametric tool for troubleshooting and I am still living with this problem. I am now starting to wonder if the fuel pump is defective even though I replaced it about 2 years ago and I noticed that is when this engine stalling problems started occurring a few months after that. I also noticed during test drive, on the 3rd and 4th gear, the car feels weak like not enough fuel is getting to engine. Is there a way to test fuel pump ( voltage, resistance etc ) in addition to fuel pressure test? As always, thank you all for your help.
  4. Hi, folks, I am looking some instruction to troubleshoot Fuel Pump Relay, I was wondering if anyone can point me in a right direction. ( I did search the forum for a while ) Also, How do you “jump” 87 and 30 fuse? Would a defective relay throw a code? Any help is greatly appreciated. 1998 2.5 litre, 5-speed. Problem: still troubleshooting engine stalling (fuel cut-off?) problem when the engine warms up ~180 degree. Code: no code displayed using Durametric
  5. Thank you for the quick reply and suggestion. This Durametric is pretty cool, I will be exploring many of its' features. I will also try to see if there is any cam-position deviation to see if I have some of IMS failure symptoms. Once agan, thank you!
  6. Sorry about the late reply, I Finally got the Durametric system, hooked it up to the diagnostic port before and after the problem that I have been experiencing, NO error code. I also un-connected the MAF and test drove the car before I got my Durametric, still the same problem. Next thing to check and/or replace, crankcase position sensor. ( any thoughts?)
  7. Thank you for the quick reply. I don't have a code reader and that is the reason why I have been reading and changing parts that I think are culprits to the problem. ( I know, it gets to be expensive; although I didn't mind initially and I am now seriously looking at durametric $278 enthusiast version) I cleaned the MAF using MAF cleaner and it has never been replaced.
  8. Hi folks, I have a 98 2.5 litre/5-speed boxster w/ 110K on the odometer. I have been trying to troubleshoot engine stalling problem for sometimes. I have read several topics pertaining to problems with engine stalling and I have changed/cleaned the following in the past 2 years Changed -AOS, J-tube, fuel pump, fuel filter and crankcase hose ( its' connector was damanged when I changed AOS), oil dipstick tube. Cleaned -throttle body, idle control valve, intake manifolds. I started to wonder if the problem I am experiencing is associated with fuel-line related parts, not vacuum leak. No check engine light. Idles fine ( in most cases) engine would stall while driving, ( especially engine running in low rpm, above 2500rpm the engine would keep running) Does a defective purge valve (the one by throttle body) cause this type of problem without triggering CEL? Any help is appreciated.
  9. thank you folks for the reply ( 1998 Boxster 2.5 5 speed ) No wonder it was really hard to pull that hose off the metal fitting. Should I just remove the black inner part of the hose from the metal fitting ( pic. 1 ) and cut about an inch of the hose ( pic. 2) and re-attach it?
  10. Hi Folks, I am in a process of re-assembling the intake manifold and was wondering what I would need to use to "glue"/re-attach the fuel hose to the fuel rail. Please see the attached pictures. When I disconnected the fuel hose, I realized that it may have been "glued" and I accidentily ripped it from the hose. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  11. Does anyone know what is the torque spec for intake manifold bolt ( they are six per side) ? Do I apply anti-seizure paste to the bolts when I re-install? I am in a process of replacing the crankcase breather hose and it looks like I would need to remove both intake manifolds in order to get to remove and install that breather hose. Any help is greatlly appreciated.
  12. Thank you for the quick reply. It looks like this "special tool" is out of my reach. Awesome info and picture. I will just get the TPS out of the throttle body and clean it, if I could and use ohmmeter to test CPS this weekend. Hopefully this will eliminate no starting, stalling and lack of power between 1500 and 2000 rpm problems.
  13. Being busy for a few days, just got back. Loren, thank you very much for the info. I don't know if the instruction provided is within my capability, I will try to find out what special tool is. Once again, thank you for the quick reply.
  14. So there is a little update; called around local part stores to see if any of them would loan an OBDII reader or allow me to just use it while I am here. It seems that all of those auto part stores stopped loaning out OBDII code scanner. ( auto zone, o'reilly's etc ) So, I am back to just troubleshoot based on numerous threads from the forum. The symptoms seem to be aligned with bad crankcase position sensor, and/or throttlebody position sensor. ( can't find any visible vacuum leak ) I found what Loren posted a while to troubleshoot the CPS " 1. Remove connector. Connect ohmmeter to CPS connector, pins 1 and 2. Display at 20 °C: 0.8 - 1.0 kohms.If this is not the reading then replace the CPS.2. Connect an ohmmeter to CPS connector, pins 1 and 3. Display: infinite ohms.If this is not the reading then replace the CPS." Is there a similar to troubleshoot the throttle body position sensor as well? Any thoughts?
  15. I will defintely visually check areas for possible vacuum leaks again, although I double checked everything when I put the throttle body back in after cleaning the tb and idle valve. The reason why I thought the TPS might be the culprit is because of the symptons of the problem. on ocassions, below 1000rpm the rough idling, and then it stalls. ( regardless of temperature/ first few minutes of driving or after an hr of driving ) Also around 1500~2000 rpm, it feels lack of power. Without code reader, I guess I am just trying to troubleshoot based on some common symptons. I will try to get hold of one this weekend. In the mean time, any suggestion is appreciated.
  16. Hi Folks, it is been a while since I posted last time. I have a 98 2.5 litre, 5-speed with 128K on the clock. For last 6 mo. or so, I started experiencing engine rough idle, stalling problems with no CEL. ( I know, it doesn't mean there is no code, thinking about buying durametric soon ~$280) I took out the throttle body and Idle control valve and clean them. I also cleaned the MAF. The problem still persists. I read several posts on the forum that point to bad tps. I have the following several questions. 1. Does a bad TPS trigger CEL always? 2. Is there a way to test TPS, voltage, resistance, etc? As always, any help is greatly appreciated.
  17. Hi Folks, I have looked around in the forum for instruction on how to remove that b-pillar microswitch. I have come across many good responses and write-ups but no instruction for the removal of that item. I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction or provide some instruction on that. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  18. I am sort of experiencing the same issue. How do you manually "trip it"? And also, how I tell if in fact this is defective, voltage etc? any help is greatly appreciated
  19. Maurice, Thank you for the reply. Limited access, indeed. I thought about removing both air intake manifold and it turned out to a huge production. Once again, limited access to that as well. I am now thinking about using a tube (typical radiator hose) to link the broken parts together and just use a few clamps to keep the tube air tie. I want to advise everyone that doing AOS is not hard but be VERY careful w/ that middle tube. I will keep you guys updated! :)
  20. Hello, Finally have sometime this Thanksgiving weekend to work on my 98 Boxster, (2.5 litre) Two things I am replacing. 1 AOS and 2 Coolant reservior Now I ran into some problem while removing AOS, I broke the tube that connects to the middle of the AOS, and it seems that it runs under air intake. Has anyone run into that problem while removing AOS and how hard is it to replace that tube. and what is the part number for it? Like always, any help is greatly appreciated. :)
  21. Hi Guys, Initially I thought I need to replace a water pump on my 98 Boxster, now it seems, it may be even a bigger problem. So here it goes, Recently I noticed that my car would produce whistling sound around 1000~2000 rpm, especially at stop, noise is just unbearable. So I did some research here on the forum and many of you have had this problem and it points to a failed water pump and/or pulley. So what I did was to drive my car for a while to warm it up, the noise kicks in after the car got warmed up. Got back and then I removed the cover to gain access to the engine. Took off the serpentine belt and started the engine and the noise is still there, sounds like it is coming from the main crank shaft "pulley" , initially I thought, this is it, the engine is on it's way to ruin. But this is what I observed, the noise would last about 1 sec, after I turn off the engine, in fact I noticed that the crank shaft pulley would stop turning and the noise would last about 1 sec and it dies down. Would this point to some problem other than mechanical failure of engine parts. :( I recently changed the spark plugs, and somewhere in the forum mentioned that if the sparrk plugs weren't torqued correctly, it would also produce some strange sound. If the problem isn't asssociated w/ the spark plugs, what other problem would it be. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  22. Looks like I need to replace the water pump for my 98 boxster, I looked at some of DIY for water pump installation, I didn't see anyone mentioning using any gasket maker/adhesive w/ the metal gasket. is the adhesive/gasket maker not required? Any input is greatly appreciated! :) Cheers!
  23. Just an update, I started w/ changing the Bosch FR7 LDC4 plugs to NGK BKR 6EK, as it turned out, I think the NGK plugs are in heat range 6. The engine started misfire/ ran rough. So I got Bosch plugs FR7 LDC+ (not FR7 LDC4) in now. The engine seems to run smoothly. So here is the run down. Kragen's auto: NGK BKR 6EK @ 5.99/each, misfire. Exchange them for Bosch FR7 LDC+ @ 3.99/each. No problem.
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