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Everything posted by farmboy

  1. A 1.0 bar wastegate actuator has recently become available for the 996TT. It's being sold as an upgrade for cars that have already been chipped - but I've been thinking... The stock ECM measures boost and controls the wastegate actuator through a solenoid. Both the spring in the actuator and the solenoid via ECM and MAF open at 0.7bar. The idea is there may be slightly improved response if both the ECM and wastegate are set to match at 1.0bar. This seems especially the case if there are some leaks in the solenoid or vacuum lines, since what does the actuator's setting matter when it's the solenoid actually running the show. The ECM uses 1.4 bar as an emergency boost cut, I would guess this is because you're hitting 100% duty cycle on the fuel injectors at the stock fuel pressure. The fact the limit is so high suggests the factory ECM, unchipped, can run over 0.7bar maybe even up to ~1.3bar. Has anyone ever tried to change out just the wategate actuator for the 1.0 bar unit rather than chipping the ECM? The part difference is about $1000, excluding the cost of a more complex installation.
  2. Question. Are the tubes normally holding oil back in the engine? If you were to take the tubes out, without first having drained the engine of oil, would oil pour out the spark plug holes?
  3. My Boxster is a 1998. I'm having some trouble with my door locks. On the passenger side the lock turns, but doesn't unlock the doors. Is this a typical problem? On the driver side the lock turns (but it's really sticky), I'm worried it's going to break. I suppose I will have to open up the door panels and see what's going on in there. As I understand it, the dealer only sells the lock cylinder part - I hope that's all that's broken. It would be nice to add the factory remote unlock feature on the car -- I don't have it! I imagine that wouldn't be impossible, since the locks already have that electric feature where if you lock/unlock one side, the other will unlock/lock as well. Thanks
  4. I took out my IACV for cleaning (about 80k miles). How exactly is the flap supposed to sit when its resting and removed from the car? The flap can easily open and close completely with my finger, but at rest it sits with a 1/8" air gap. That seems a little odd to me for a normal resting state. I would have expected that it should stay completely closed. I cleaned it, but I still a bit of an idle problem (dipping so low nearly stalling) when the AC comes on. Do I need a new IACV?
  5. Fellow Porsche people, I'm looking around for a second Porsche. Specifically a pre-loved Cayman S. One of the dealers I visited mentioned that during the used car inspection they check "that the previous owner hasn't exceeded the redline more than three times". I have no doubt that the Porsche diagnostic tool/computer can read that kind of information out from the engine computer... but this seems strange on so many levels. Can anyone confirm that the PST2 (diagnostic tool) can really read out such things? Is there also tracking on max GForces I wonder? Do dealers really inspect these sorts of things before certifying a used car? Thanks Jeff
  6. I understand the value in replacing the plastic window with glass. But I question how much long term benifit there is. I've been looking at my top more closely - while sitting in the seat with the top up- I've noticed some serious wear of the inside of the top near where the mechanisms must rub. So - what is the point of making the rear window last forever if the cloth doesn't and pretty much blows out about the same time? Do you guys know the wear I'm talking about? Need pics? Also once you develop a couple of small 1/4" cracks in the rear window radiating from the stitches, how long till the whole thing goes? Thanks!
  7. Do what you feel comfortable with - you'll be under the thing. ;) I had removed the access panel anyway since I also did the serpentine belt. It wasn't really useful during the mount job, other than perhaps adding more light to the area while I was working. The repaired mount works wonderfully. I was considering a new mount, but then I started to think that since my main issue was that the insert slid, the same could happen again with a new mount. Seems like that's addressed by the new bolt I installed through the housing and the insert ring. There certainly won't be any cracking on the weak stock rubber either, since it's now solid! It's not very rough either, I used Flexane 80 instead of the harder stuff. Then again about 10 years ago I swapped engines on my track car and went with a solid metal mount. Nothing here could be that bad :)
  8. I'm a little confused here - would you help me out? I changed out my plugs this weekend. Dunno how much millage was on those things, but looking at the electrodes, they were sure ovaled out. This combined with the cleaning of the throttle body has really improved my idle. Anyway, while I was in there I noticed the plug boots looked a little funny - a couple of them were cracked around the bolt area. Is this a big deal? Are these just plug boots - should be thinking about changing out these boots and wires as well for this service interval? Or does this car have six individual coil packs here (that look like boots?). Thanks!
  9. I had no problem using just my 2 1/2 ton floor jack under the engine. No special equipment necessary. I left the standard cup on the jack and lifted/lowered directly under the engine that was just in front of the oil pan. Obviously you'll want to jack near the front of the engine where the mount is, and this tends to get in the way a bit while you're working there. Don't forget you can break loose all the bolts before you bring the jack in! I'd highly recommend that strategy since it'll give you more room to work. Contrary to the DIY listed here, I found that my mount only had three bolts. Maybe it's because I have a '98. Further, I found that the upper bolt was easier to access from the bottom not the top. A 15mm deep socket would be beneficial for the long bolts that hold the mount up to the body. BTW. The mount took several hours to remove, but went back in pretty quickly. Here is a picture of my "new" mount...
  10. 986jim- so like this then? ;) i had the bushing slide in the mount too (just like in toolpant's picture), so i hammered it flush, then appled a big 10mm bolt and nut through the thing before the flexane.
  11. Regarding the idle air control valve. When you have it out for cleaning, how exactly is the flap supposed to sit? The flap can easily open and close completely with my finger, but rests with a 1/8" air gap. That seems a little odd to me for a normal resting state. Don't tell me after all this cleaning I'll still have an idle problem with the AC on and need to try again with a new IACV? Thanks! PS: here are some before-cleaning pictures of my throttle body. This is a 98 Boxster with 73k miles. I suspect the throttle had never been cleaned.
  12. So I'm about to get started changing out my front engine mount. I'd mentioned in a previous post that I had the rumble when turning left and over bumps. Today, I get under my car and I'm looking everything over really well in preparation. And what the heck :eek: - I noticed the right rear lower control arm is pretty messed up! Here is the left side, and the right in comparison. The right side is bent, even cracked a bit. I'm not the original owner, did someone fishtail and nail a curb here or what? Could this be the source of my rumble? Should I be changing out some other arms? Everything else looks ok by visual inspection.
  13. Hey that how to looks great. I suspect my mount is blown (I have a rumble on turns to the left) and over bumpy roads. How do I know for certain if it's my mount that's blown or a rear arm? I have about 70k miles. Thanks!
  14. Does anyone know where the page went that talked about how to modify the relay for the cabrio top so that you can operate the top while moving AND without having the handbrake? Is it something like disconnect pin 18 plus disconnect pin 15 from the harness, but connect the relay's pin 15 to +12v? (or ground?) PS: Gary's page at http://www.iq.dynip.com/~gary/hacks/cabrio/cabrio.html is gone! Thanks!
  15. question: if i wanted to measure the seat belt latch sense at through the sum of the harness (at the engine control box) where would that be - and what connectors/pins?
  16. well would you look at that! that schematic is showing exactly what i measured on my belts last night. curious that they didn't use higher resistance values. like 1k and 100k or something. this is probably why so many people are having problems. so i suppose if you measure your latches and they meet the design, then the problem is actually somewhere else, like the connectors in the harness or the harness itself.
  17. i had the airbag code cleared and it didn't reappear until i had a passenger in the car (obviously changing the belt state to locked). my fault seems to be in the passenger side. i saw this tech blurb over at pca... q: The air bag warning light stays on. What would the most likely cause be? a: The most likely cause is the seat belt buckles. They have a small resistance window in the control unit for the airbag and if it goes out of that window, the airbag light will come on. Porsche has been taking care of the airbaga light as a goodwill gesture since they have had so many problems with the seat belt buckles. You will have the harness updated under the seats and gold connectors install in the harness. New buckles with gold connectors will be installed, eliminating the resistance problems with tin connectors. so this begs the question.... i took out the seat and measured the resistance (between the two pins in the connector). i was surprised to see 100ohms with the buckle in, and 400ohms with it out. i would have expected more range than that. what kind of values are people seeing in their failed and new gold plated switch equiped belt latches?
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