Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by A34735

  1. http://stuttcars.com/technical/option-codes/997.1/ This site has a complete list of option codes. I can't see how to convert this to a pdf on my ipad (intuitive on my old PC!) FWIW, an awful lot related to leather trim,
  2. I found the same when I swapped my 996 for a 997. Dealer said the key in door cabrio retract was deleted for the 997. I can't remember why....
  3. I'm embarassed to show only 16K on my 2007 C2S. But that's 5K more than when I got it 3 months ago.
  4. My dealer service manager is a veteran P guy (Gunther at Porsche of Fremont) I trust implicitly, so I doubt he's full of crap. But I have ignored his blessing and keep the revs below 4K till the oil is hot. But if oil temp is what really matters, ditch the water temp gauge and bring back volts. Having oil temp and pressure close would also be better ergonomics...
  5. As the bearing cannot easily be upgraded, removing the rear seal will allow continuous splash lubrication by the sump oil, eliminating the "trapped oil breakdown" pathway to bearing failure. We have several customers running this way with no problems. Hi JFP in PA, I believe my engine has the IMS version that requires splitting the case to access it. Can you say if just prising off the cover (to allow splash lube) is a realistic option for me? As always, with thanks in advance, Nigel Yes, but it requires doing nearly all the work required to do an IMS bearing swap on an earlier car. While the bearing cannot be removed without a total engine tear down, once the flywheel is removed you can easily access the IMS flange cover (you still need to lock the engine at TDC and lock the cams as though you were doing an IMS upgrade before removing the IMS flange cover), and then using a tool like a dental pick just pry out the IMS bearings rear seal (it is flexible, so you can get it out without problems). Then button everything back up. Thx JFP
  6. My first Porsche was a 1999 C2 cabrio, 300 hp, bought in 2010 with 64K miles for $24.5K. It was just the base model, came with a lovely matching hard-top. And though 11 years old it was immaculate, inside and out, full dealer service history. In fact smelt and sounded 'newer' than most new cars. For 3 yrs it was my 90 miles/day commuter car: the thought of driving it helped get me out of bed at 545am, really! Then at 115K I had a mishap avoiding a deer, and wrote the car off. I topped up the insurance payment ($21.5K, thank you State Farm!) and got a 2007 997.1 C2S 6-speed manual cabrio, 11.5K miles, with the Sports pack (so 355 hp). I loved it at first, thought it was an incremental improvement over the 996, but now, 4,500 miles later I'm not so sure. What's obviously better? Interior. I thought the full leather interior of my 996 was pretty darn good, but the stitching on the 997 is like a Prada handbag - it's Rolls Royce vs Jeep. The headlights are the same story - good just got better! Ditto the ragtop, seats (heated, with the top down at 0C/32F - wonderful!). Engine sounds on start up (throaty burble, with some water on the lungs; transforms to the growling purr of a cat chasing a bird; then onto a sinfonic roar). I like the tire pressure monitoring system, still not sure if I fully trust it though. Truly amazing is the cabin comfortableness with the top down. When it's freezing, a thick jacket is all I need if the seat heater is on and the cabin temp is set suitably high - say 80F/27C. That much of the improvement comes from the mesh screen device (which was missing from my 996) was proved by not using it one morning - i was deeply cold after the 1hr drive to work. Exterior. Well, the return to round headlights makes purist sense - though I prefer the more slippery 996 profile and front end. And it looks wonderful, big fat tires, flawless deep blue paint, better profile with hood up (and a better hood) - I always pause to admire it for a second or two before climbing in. What's not to like? Well - and I'm sure I'll be accused of either incompetence or heresy or both for this: the 6 speed transmission is ****e! After having the dealer install the short shift kit, it was subjectively maybe a little better. But N to 1st often needs a throttle blip to allow the teeth to engage at all. I find I'm only doing seamless 1st to 2nds about 50% of the time. 2-3, 3-4, 4-3 are great, the downshifts being gratifyingly better with double declutching (sounds like dopplekoppling, eh Heinz?). But 3-2 can be hit or miss. 5 and 6 are fine, but pretty redundant for city driving. I think it better as a 4+2 than a 6, if that makes sense. But in all honesty, every other manual I've driven (which I did exclusively for my first 22 driving years) was easier to shift, up or down. (The clutch, BTW, is fine). The only other negatives are i) PCM/phone system (which I'll replace) - just totally lame. ii) I miss the volts on the gauges. I'm confused by oil vs water temp: the dealer says it's good to go if the water is at 175, even if the oil temp hasn't changed. That just doesn't seem right to my simple mind! iii) I want a dipstick, was very surprised to learn it was abandoned for the 997 onwards. My final impression is that the 997.1 is yet another incremental engineering triumph over it's predecessor. The performance, reliability, fit and finish, luxuriousness are so obviously much better, it's a wonderful drive but....it's bigger, feels heavier. The 996 is noticeably smaller and though 11 lbs/hp vs 10 lbs/hp, it seemed just...tighter. I liked keeping both hands on the wheel, loved the Tiptronic both in rush hour and in the hills. So, after 3 months I'm seriously wondering whether I'm the right person for this car...
  7. As the bearing cannot easily be upgraded, removing the rear seal will allow continuous splash lubrication by the sump oil, eliminating the "trapped oil breakdown" pathway to bearing failure. We have several customers running this way with no problems. Hi JFP in PA, I believe my engine has the IMS version that requires splitting the case to access it. Can you say if just prising off the cover (to allow splash lube) is a realistic option for me? As always, with thanks in advance, Nigel
  8. Isn't this a well-known 'issue' for GT3s? I'm sure I heard there's a cable in the driver door that harmonizes around 3000 rpm (I think it was most pronounced at 3300 rpm). BTW I'm a 996/997.1 driver, so a large sack of salt might be advisable!
  9. Thanks again JFP.If memory serves (I'm away from the shop at the moment), the C102 may indicate that a controller needs to be reset or possibly replaced. This cannot be done with the Durametric, it needs a PIWIS.
  10. JFP, Silver TT and Spiffyjiff, Thanks for your answers - I'm reassured the dealer likely didn't mess with the logs! And another question: I've a persistent 'C102 Seat Memory CAN Single Wire (Comfort)' error code? (This is a 2007 997.1 C2S cabrio). Which might be something real, as the seat memory buttons don't seem to behave the same as they did on my old 996 (even after reading the manual) With thanks in advance, Nigel
  11. My Enthusiast Durametic cable arrived last night: I wanted to check the over rev history, if there was any. Surprisingly (to me at least!), IR1 and IR2 had a few events, but nothing in IR3-IR6. The car is a 2007 997.1 C2S cabrio, had 11,400 mileson it when I got it a month ago. Questions are: 1 is no over revs in IR3-IR6 suspicious of someone having gone in and cleaned up the log file? (This came from a P-dealer whom I don't fully trust...) 2 any ideas where I can find a PDF list of all the codes and some idea of how to interpret them? As always, with thanks in advance, Nigel
  12. Hoping someone out there knows the answer to this one. I'm the lucky new owner of a 997 C2S cabrio, without satnav, with Sport Chrono Plus package. Though I can find references to ability to change some functions (like the lights off delay), can't for the life of me find the menu tree for these preferences. Is there an ALT-CNTRL-SHFT-DEL equivalent I need to know about? With thanks in advance...Nigel
  13. This wasn't In Livermore, CA was it? Sounded eerily similar to my experience: won a free valet at a PCA event. When I picked the car up the OBC was fried: they wanted $3700 to fix it! I got PCNA involved, and it was eventually resolved satisfactorily.
  14. Blue, 6 speed manual (I miss the tiptronic!). Lightly loaded - though the heated seats are great in the morning with the top down...These are beautiful cars!
  15. Thanks for all your good replies. Turned out I found a 2007 Cabrio S with only 11,000miles. CPO'ed for another 18 months, and I added a warranty for 6 years/100K....so feeling good. Amazing improvement of the 2007 Cabrio C2S over the 1999 Cabrio C2... And thanks again for all the good advice, Nigel
  16. Hi there, I totalled my 996 (avoiding a deer) on Monday, have just been to see a lovely 997.1 C4 Manual Cabriolet as potential replacement. It's 2006, has only 15000 miles on it. The local Porsche dealer gave it a clean PPI, looks like new to me. Are there any issues with such a low mileage car? Should I consider the L&N IMS retrofit? I'm guessing my 996 hard-top won't fit on the 997....can anyone confirm? All advice will be much appreciated. With thanks in advance, Nigel
  17. Added 12 Feb 2013.Now at 103K. Still going strong....
  18. Touch wood...echoes my experience. My 13 year old 996 feels newer/tighter than any other car I've had. Sure it costs a bit more to maintain, but I, like Steve, seem to have been lucky so far. Or maybe not luck, just those Germans really do know how to make cars...
  19. She sounds special... :clapping: Even after 27 years together, she certainly is! :thankyou: Now 16 months later, I'm at 91,000 miles. At 75K I bit the bullet and had the L&N IMS upgrade installed (by Porsche of Fremont, who I trust completely. Unlike another local rascal...). They also replaced the RMS and a couple of other parts that could only be done with the engine out. But hand on crotch (touch wood!) the car is still purring like a Swiss sewing machine. I drive as fast as I can whenever it's safe to do so (which is not often, I have no wish to endanger fellow road-users). Typically I will do 100-105/mph once a week, 105-130 mph once every 6 weeks and >150mph mabye once every 8 months). But it certainly gets redlined several times every day (I do 450 miles/week). I get the Mobil 1 oil changed and tested every 7.5K: the Blackstone labs reports are always perfect (and BTW, there was nothing wrong with the original IMS bearing). I guess what I've learnt is owning a 911 is not the same as a Toyota Corolla. Whilst I'd have trouble justifying $120K on a new one, I don't have any trouble budgeting $5K/year for tires, brakes, rotors, oil etc...In exchange I've got a really nice car that cost the same as my Subaru Outback and is only 0.4seconds slower than comparable 2012 models. Thus far I estimate it's cost me about $1/mile, excluding gas. Mileage is about 20/gallon vs about 30/gallon for a boring 4 door saloon. I spend a little more than I need to everyday, but I never have trouble getting out of bed to go to work in the morning!
  20. Ive added 10K to the '63K on it when bought in Sep 2011. Changed the oil 3 X since then. Still seems to running very well. Blackstone oil report came back clean, but dealer thinks water tank is leaking - levels haven't changed to my eys, nor has temperature increased... Will post again if and when I get to 83K... I'm now lulled into a sense of security (4/5 experts - Porsche Dealers, independent repair shops - have advised they wouldn't do the IMS upgrade to their own cars at similar timepoints, mileages. So I'm going to keep plugging away... PS my missus called me a 'race-car driving, skydiving, alcholic drug addict boy friend with a death wish' - Nicest thing she'd said in years. Thank you sweetie!
  21. (as the idiot who lost a bit of plastic tubing in the engine)...I'd go with the 'do not drive' recommendation. The tow cost can be claimed from your insurer. Whatever the ultimate cause, driving this one to the garage is only likely to make it worse...take the tow!
  22. Thank you everyone...especially 'JFP in PA' Had the car towed to Kahler's. They put a scope down the dipstick tube, couldn't see the missing piece. Dropped the pan, and got it! I felt (and am) stupid, but felt better once I got behind the wheel to drive home. Moral of this story? A good chunk of my maintenance expenses have are self-induced. I'm going to stop worrying and stick to driving. Will post the Blackstone results when they're back. Thanks again..... :D
  23. Folks, I've lost a piece of plastic tube in the oil system. Here's why and how... Why? My 996 is 12 years old, I worry about the IMS. I heard having the oil tested might reveal early wear of the IMS bearings (elevated copper, I think). So I ordered a test kit from Blackstone How? The Blackstone kit needs about 3oz/100mL. If the oil isn't collected during a change, they suggest poking a tube down the dipstick holder, and aspirating the oil with a syringe. I got the tube in about 2.5 feet, then felt some resistance: but I managed to push through, and get some oil out. But: when I withdrew the tube, the last 1 inch was shredded, with 1.0 X 0.2 inch piece clearly missing. My questions are: Q1: Is the area I tested upstream from the filter? In which case I expect the filter will do it's job and catch this piece of plastic. No worries. Q2: If not, then there's a piece of soft plastic (25mm X 5mm) circulating with the oil. Is this likely to block anything critical - and thence cause localized meltdown? Any help will be welcome!.. With thanks in advance, Nigel
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.