Dale_K

Yeah, I got over 350 miles before my CEL came back on after the oil fill tube was replaced. My generic code scanner won't display "pending" codes and the CEL sometimes doesn't get turned on by the computer until it sees the parameters wrong several drive cycles in a row. My local Porsche shop says they've never seen a MAF sensor successfully cleaned and totally clearing up the problem.

Yeah, I have a new cap on the way from Pelican right now. I found a foreign car shop in Hot Springs, AR that has a smoke system for finding intake leaks and I have an appointment for Thursday to have it checked. This will probably turn out to be the most expensive MAF sensor in history if they don't find a leak, lol. By the time I pay for the Durametric, the smoke test, the gas cap, the vent valve, the oil fill tube (already done), I'll be into this project for $1,000 and I still haven't bought the MAF sensor that everybody says I need.

I should have mentioned that I have another problem that could be interrelated. I get a loud "wooooo" sound from the vicinity of the fuel filler occasionally under light throttle. The noise is definitely vacuum related because it goes away instantly if I move the gas pedal in either direction. It's possible that this might be the source of a vacuum leak sufficient to confuse the engine computer. I see from other threads this could be caused by the charcoal canister control valves. The Durametric system can activate the evaporative control system (I think) so I'm going to begin with that subsystem first. I can look at the fuel trim levels and see if they change after I fix the evap system. It's kind of hard with an old used car because you don't know the prior history and so many old interrelated components are involved.

My car (103k miles 2000 S Tip) seems to be running perfectly. It runs very smoothly with no misfires at any rpm or load and has full power. Yet it continues to bring on the CEL with the running lean codes. Yes it very well could be the MAF sensor. I only wish there was some kind of test available to verify the accuracy of the old MAF sensor before spending the money. Not only because of the money but because true diagnostics appeals to me in kind of a scientific method approach. I talked to the independent repair shop who did the oil fill tube replacement and asked their advice. They are willing to install a MAF sensor and allow me to return it and get my money back if the CEL comes back. It's kind of hard to turn that down, even though I could do the work myself pretty easily. I've already attempted cleaning with genuine MAF sensor cleaner. I ordered the Durametric unit and the Porsche ODBII manual and should get them in a week or so. My plan is to obtain actual MAF sensor readings at idle, 1,000 2,000 and 3,000 rpm on the old sensor and compare them to the new sensor. This is actually going to cost me more than simply replacing the part based on logical guesswork but I'll have genuine data, which appeals to the inner scientist part of my mind. I'm also going to visit a non-Porsche repair shop near me to see if I can find anyone who can run a smoke test on the intake system to find vacuum leaks. I'll do that first and fix anything before the sensor replacement.

I had a local shop replace the oil fill tube segment you mention. They charged me over $300 so maybe I should have attempted it myself. Sears sells hose clamp pliers that might work. They have a cable connected to the handle so you don't need to get the entire tool near the clamp. It cost $40 at my local Sears store. I don't know if a really bad leak in the accordian section will prevent the car from starting. Maybe you could cap off that section near the throttle body and temporarily eliminate the pipe for diagnostic purposes. I ordered the Durametric ODB cable and software yesterday. I'll take some measurements of the existing MAF sensor readings and start a new thread to see if they look wrong. Too bad there's no way to temporarily test a known good MAF sensor and compare it to my old one. I also ordered the ODBII Porsche repair manual so that I can better understand the theory of operation and repair stategies. My luck will be that I'll buy a new $300 MAF sensor only to find out it produces the same results as my old one. But at least I will know that answer through actual measurement through the Durametric rather than guesswork. Looking at the Porsche service manual yesterday I see there is a fitting on the fuel rail to connect a pressure gauge. Low fuel pressure could produce the same symptoms (DME trying to enrich beyond its maximum limit). I haven't looked into how much a fuel pressure testing gauge cost. The manual also says the cap for the fitting on the fuel rail must be replaced if you take it off and I don't have a new one.

Thanks. The terminology can be confusing. Running rich vs can't enrich any further. The car's exhaust actually smells a little rich when I'm near it at idle although I know you can't really depend on smell (could be a clue though). Maybe I can find somebody with an exhaust gas analyzer. Then if the gas analyzer says rich while the car is saying it wants even more enrichment I guess that would point to the MAF or something else in the control/feedback loop. I hate to throw parts at problems unless they're cheap parts.

My 2000 S Tiptronic lit the CEL a couple of weeks ago with the 1126 code. I looked over the engine and found a leaking oil fill tube and got it replaced at a local independent shop. The CEL came back on today after about 200 miles with 1126, 1128 and 1130 showing in my generic scanner. Do those codes mean the motor is running rich or mean it's running lean? I'm a little confused because I've read some stuff that says it means it's running rich but everybody seems to give advice to check for vacuum leaks and that wouldn't make it run rich - just the opposite. I don't hear any leaks after the oil fill tube was replaced. Before I could wiggle the tube around and hear a definite leak, now the replacement tube is mounted more solidly and no hissing. But if the codes mean the car is running rich I'm fighting a losing battle looking for intake leaks. Assuming the MAF and O2 sensors are working OK, what could make the car run rich? The only things I could think of would be too much fuel pressure and (more farfetched) something in the fuel tank vent system that is feeding the intake gas vapors when it's not supposed to. What's the best strategy... put on a new MAF and hope?

Thanks very much for those pictures, espcially the one with the intake tubes removed. I don't have a problem with barn yard methods as long as they work.

Thanks for the info. Were you able to do all this work without completely removing the intake manifold(s)? In other words, I should take off the throttle body and then the main tube through the center that connects the two halves? Can you get to the front part that way, or do you need to take the service panel off behind the seats? My hat's off to you for replacing the AOS. I looked at that after jacking up the car and couldn't believe how anybody could reach the bolts and lower bellows clamp. The pictures in the 101 projects book make it look like the parts are right in front of you. It looks like you need to be a double jointed 6 year old to get your hands back there.

I have the 1126 code too. I'm pretty sure I found a vacuum leak on the oil fill tube where it disappears under the intake manifold. My suggestion is to believe the computer and look for an intake leak first. Maybe take it to a shop that's equipped with a smoke generator system to pressuize the intake system slightly and locate leaks if you don't see anything yourself. Sometimes you can hear the hissing sound of a leak. Please post up anything new as your repair proceeds. Maybe you'll learn something that can help me.

Thanks for the info. I'm a little apprehensive about my mechanical ability looking at the restricted work space accessing the ends of the tube. But at least I've found a leak and I think I'm on the right track.

My car threw the 1126 code this week and I just finished trying to identify a vacuum leak. I'm almost positive it's the oil fill tube. Tell me what you think - I can hear a little hissing/sucking sound at the center top of the engine and when I move around the rear of the oil fill tube the sound gets much louder and the motor starts running a little rough. Mostly this happens if I press down on the tube where it begins to dissapear under the intake system. I'm trying to decide whether I can tackle this myself, kind of like the OP.

Good job. Sure looks like that was the problem.

Glad everything's running and shifting well. That's a lot of money but worth it since you got a totally successful repair. Did your tech give you a reason why the tip went out? In other words what should I be mindfull of if I want to avoid the $4,400 bill?

That's pretty interesting and congratulations on solving your problems and getting the car to pass the emission test. I guess I should get that Durametric gizmo. The 2000 S tip I bought a couple of months ago is running great but sooner or later I'll need something that will diagnose the codes. BTW, what is the "change over valve"?

I bought some tires about a month ago and recall that Tire Rack had a closeout on some N rated tires. I am new to Porsches and was unaware of the special tires so I bought something else and enjoy a smooth quiet ride on the new Kuhmos. I lost a little steering response however.

My 2000 S always starts in second gear too, when in drive. I think that's normal. Mine will downshift to first if I floor the gas without going to manual mode. Ask your tech how he thinks the failure began. I sure don't want to see an expensive repair such as yours. Did a leak eventually lead to operating with a low fluid level, then progressing to low pressures and slipping clutches? I hope I never face this issue but if I did I might consider a used transmission without any rebuilding. Just slap it on and hope for the best. I see several Boxsters on the Coparts web site that have potential as donor cars. Good luck with your car.

Does it crank? If it doesn't even crank I'd check the clutch pedal switch or gear selector lever with an automatic. If it cranks but won't start I'd only be guessing. I'd pour in a couple gallons of gas just to eliminate the possibility the tank is empty (gas gauges can go bad).

Please continue posting updates as this repair proceeds. I have a 2000 S tiptronic, which is working perfectly at this time but I'd like to know your situtation turns out. Maybe if you're lucky a new seal and refill gets it working again.

The car I recently acquired (2000 S) showed receipts at an independent repair shop with the previous owner reporting oil leaks. The shop replaced leaking spark plug tubes, rubber cam plug seals and the rear mail seal (with an updated design). The point is a thorough job might entail multiple jobs. There was also a gear oil leak on one of the axles and the total for all the work was about $1,500 at the independent shop. $1,000 for sealing the cam covers seems pretty high to me but I'm no expert.

Thanks for the reply. Here is another picture I took the same day but didn't post. I sometimes feel the "need for speed" and the Corvette can handle those moments. It has so much power that it's thrilling in a way the Boxster will never match. They're both good cars. I'm fortunate to live within 1/4 mile of one of the greatest sports car roads in the USA, Arkansas Rt. 7, through the Ouachita mountains. It's hard to resist the inner Mario Andretti while driving it.

It got up to 70 today in Hot Springs, Arkansas so it was a good time to get out the buffer and polish the 2000 Boxster S I bought last week. It turned out fairly decent except for the stone chips, etc on the front. This is me down at the Honda dealer today. That's where I bought the car. The previous owners traded for a Chevy SSR. It's a coincidence that the Social Security Office is right across the street behind the car. But not a complete coincidenc because my first SS payment is supposed to come in early February. The extra income gave me enough courage to buy a 100k mile Porsche.

They were screwed in - I removed the screws to take it apart. Thanks for the reply.

Subscribing to this thread because I want to know too. Convertibles and heated seats are a good combo. I guess there will be different answers for OEM seats (where did you get yours?) and aftermarket heater kits.

The 2000 Boxster S I bought this week has been quite noisy from the top. Kind of a plastic clicking, ticking kind of sound over most any kind of bump in the road. So I've been cussing the top. Yesterday I smeared silicone grease over all the door and window weatherstripping and it helped slightly but the basic irritating plastic ticking was still there. I put the top in the service position with the intention of checking the engine cover but as soon as I removed the speaker box (long box with sliding doors and speakers on both sides) I could tell it might be the source of the sound. It kind of clicked and ticked just holding it in my hands. So I left it out of the car and went for a long drive up Arkansas Rt 7, which is right near my home. It used to be among Car & Drivers 10 best roads in the US and it's a great drive in a sports car. Anyway the irritating noise is gone. There are a few genuine top noises but they're not very bad and both sun-visors rattle a little but 95% of the bad sounds are gone. Here are a couple pictures of the useless sound box. It is little more than a rattle waiting to happen. The speakers are mounted on a piece of plastic that is kind of wedged into a diagonal slot at the corner. Here's a picture of the speakers removed. I haven't fixed the problem but it looks like a little trimming on the plastic that the speakers mount to might do some good. The main thing is if you have some nasty plastic noises behind the seats you might want to take out the speaker box and go for a drive.