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BoxsterTaff

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About BoxsterTaff

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    Contributing Member

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    andyjones_@hotmail.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Dallas, Texas
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1997 Boxster
  • Future cars
    My wife has told me.........no more cars.......we'll see!
  • Former cars
    Miata MX5
  1. Brian - I would check 3 things. The oil is on top of the block so the only ways I am aware of that it could get up there, are: 1) check the AOS J tube as is enters the throttle body, if the AOS has failed and is pumping oil and the J-tube seal is bad that would put oil on top of the block. 2) check the oil filler tube for leaks on the lower section, esp as it enters the block under and just fore of the air intake cross connect between plenums. 3) check the oil cooler to the driver side of the block under the air intake pipe that runs from the filert box to the throttle body for failure
  2. Sorry for the confusion - I installed a new MAF, the good clean was refering to the TB and intake system after the AOS was letting out........ So far the only CEL code i have thrown is a P0430 which is either a bad O2 or a bad Cat.....i'll get to that later!
  3. Well good luck, my 1126, 1128 and 1130 codes were solved by replacing the oil tube, MAF and a good clean! Last night i went for a 90min drive North of Dallas, and all the hard work was worth it! :jump:
  4. Dale - i replaced my fuel cap as a preventative measure with a new one when I had the fuel pump changed out (just like other seals, the rubber degrades with age). I think it was 12 bucks or something like that from Pelican Parts.
  5. I'm not sure about the 'gunk' at the filler cap (maybe mixing coolant but i'm no expert) but I recently went through similar codes - see this thread: I also had a 'hissing' noise - checked all the vaccum lines, took apart and cleaned the TB and intake, new AOS and MAF and eventually found the hissing was a split oil filler tube....was pretty loud. Another good couple of tricks for finding an air leak ar to spray Carb cleaner (careful, it flamable so do this at your own risk) on the intake pipe joints etc, if there is a leak the engine will rev up, or take a length of hose pipe (say 3-4 ft
  6. Very common to throw codes with cracked or leaking oil filler tube. It is best if replaced rather than taped. There are three tubes that connect from the trunk to the center front top of the enginge. The leak is usually between the 1st and 2nd joint, which is next to the AOS and under the air tubes and throttle body. Be careful if you attempt to remove and replace the 1st and 2nd tube because the 3rd tube is connected to the engine by a couple of thin plastic ears and they can break off. Ask me how I know:( Here is a link to a recent Forum Discussion. PRESS HERE Thanks - I w
  7. Well - first test run with the new MAF, new ICV, cleaned TB, new AOS and (temp) fix to the leaking air intake. 1) Idle is smooth cold and hot. 2) Temp ran slightly cooler - would a rich mixture cause the engine to run hotter - i guess it would, more gas and all? 3) Less of a 'gas' smell from the exhaust, so i guess its not thinking its running lean anymore? Can any of the experts on here explian the connection between Crank-Case Vacuum leaks and the fuel air mixture / MAF issues? FIngers crossied the dreaded CEL stays off!
  8. Leaking Oil Filler Tube! Ok, so I removed the filler tube at the joint below the AOS J tube, placed a Gator Aid bottle cap over the reming finnet tube, taped it with duct tape and hey presto.....hissing sound gone, engine idling like a sweet Prosche should! So my question, would a leak in the Oil intake tube, I.e crankcase vacuum leak have caused my CEL codes? I also just fitted a new Bosch MAF.
  9. Yes, that 2nd bolt is a bear! I didn't have a swivle joint for my rench and was in no mood to go out and get one by this point :cursing: so i took an old 10mm socket, and a long, large flat head screw driver that i happened to have and hammered into the top of the 10mm socket, this gave me a 'socket' thin enough to get a good angle on the 2nd bolt past the alternator.....There's just not enough room to get your hand down there with the 3rd section of tube in Dale. Only make a 2mm cut, not much wider than the blade, and use a washer on the 10mm bolt. Of course, Kbrandsma's way is much less
  10. Well, i tested the new ICV, resistance 16.9ohms, I also rested the 'old' ICV, resistance also 16.9 ohms. the old one made a buzzing sound with the ignition turned on. Will havr to see how the new one does, waiting for the new MAF before i take it on a test run...... wiring looks ok, hope its not the DME control module on the way out <_<
  11. Dale - i did not remove the intake plenums, just the connecting intake tube and rubber gaskets - be-sure to replace the two small vacuum hoses on the cabin side of these! I didn't spot them at first. Like I said the one bolt is obscured by the alternator - i got around thi by starting the bolt in the engine block thread before i put the oil filler tube back in, then with a small slot cut in the lug on the filler tube, slipped it over the bolt - I am not sure if removing the inspection panel would help, may do, or you may need to pull the alternator. AOS was a PITA but worth it. I changed th
  12. Dale - I did just what you are considering over the past weekend, I tooo have a leak somewhere, so last weekend i took the intake tube (between the intake plenums) and throttle body off for a good clean, and also changed out my AOS. While I was in there the oil filler tube seemed loose. As stated above, its in 3 parts, 1st from the filler cap to the void (between the trunk and the visible engine bay), 2nd a mid section that ends with a hose clamp located roughly under the J tube from the AOS to the intake, and the third from that joint into the top of the engine case. Turned out only one of th
  13. Ben - hopefully you have found the fault by now..... I had a similar noise after my transmission was replaced.....turned out the park brake cable to the passenger side had shifted, it was against the inner rim of the wheel - as the wheel spun, the balance weight on the inside of the inner rim was hitting the cable.....click, click, click..... Noise would 'stop' above 5-10mph.. Andy
  14. Right, well i'll check it tomorrow, just to be sure. That was my next question, is it a commmon failure on older cars! Seems I read that the solenoid just gets weak over time somewhere. Thanks for your advice Loren. Andy
  15. Hey thanks for getting back to me Loren. I just checked the ICV wiring harnesses and the wires I could see before they went into the sleeves. They all look fine. Is there anyway I can test the ICV or is it just a case of replacing it?
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